Best & Worst of S/S 2018

[Lola701]

BEST (no particular order
-Fendi
-Loewe
-Junya Watanabe
-Tom Ford
-Jacquemus
-Louis Vuitton
-Celine
-Krizia
-Thom Browne
-Undercover
-Prada
-Chloe

DISAPPOINTMENT:
-Marco De Vicenzo
-Chanel
-Valentino
-Haider Ackermann

Honorable mention: Versace, DVF, Mugler, Saint Laurent, Phillip Lim.

W.O.R.S.T/LOST CAUSES:
-DIOR
-MARNI
-NINA RICCI
-GIVENCHY
-BALENCIAGA
-ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
-MICHAEL KORS
-ALEXANDER WANG

 

[FashionPower]

WORST
- Forever21 by Maria Grazia Chiuri (sorry I meant Dior LOL)
- Givenchy (Chloe 2.0...no thank you)

BEST
- Valentino (first show in years that didn't look as it was designed on auto-pilot mode)

I have to say not even one show during the whole fashion month made me feel excited...the whole fashion system is really going downhill. Too much focus on profit and revenues and no attention to design or creativity.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

BEST

BALENCIAGA : casting, atmosphere, it felt like a modern and perverted Maison Martin Margiela show
MARNI : fabrics, details, weird proportions, accessories
CELINE : amazing proportions, work on leathers, tailored pieces

 

[perhydrol]

Fashion sucks. This season was so terrible and for the very first time I wasn't following it day by day. Of course there were some good collections like Jacquemus (that was really surprising in a good way), Toga (it was just perfect and it's a shame that it doesn't have its own thread), Versace, Mugler or DVF. But on the other hand there were all the Diors, Balmains, Ungaros, Marnis, McQueens and Lanvins of this world. Phoebe Philo is still in the mood of being directionless, Natacha Ramsay-Levi loves her Vuitton so much that she took it with her to Chloé and Prada got lost in a comic book. There's literally nothing exciting to follow anymore and it's just sad at this point.

 

[cul8tr]

Best - Balenciaga, J.W.Anderson, Chloe.

Worst - Gucci!!!!!

 

[Scouting Snapper]

this is my 10th year working SS fashion month.this is by far the most uninspiring month i have ever experienced in this game ..ego ..ego ..ego ...the direction from designers to stylists to casting directors has been so bad .i'm sorry to say this.i think it kinda reflects the way the world is at this time.

Good... Fendi Tom Ford Bottega Veneta & Carolina Herrera
Okay... Versace & Missoni
Bad... Dior Lanvin & Chanel really really bad ...

 

[jeanclaude]

BEST:

The fact that fashion month is over. Each season is getting more tiring and boring than the last one.
As for the clothes, I like some pieces from Rick Owens, that´s all.
I can´t talk about liking a whole collection...that doesn´t happen to me since several years ago.

WORSE:

The state of fashion industry, mimicking mass production ethos but at luxury prices. And forgotting about design in the process.
And as for the clothes again...there have been so many low, low, rock-bottom level collections this season that I can´t truly choose one.
The design level is abysmal! And passion has left the fashion building.

 

[bluestar]

GOOD: Versace (absolutely loved the tribute to Gianni and the cast was awesome), Tom Ford (didn't love every piece but overall it felt sexy and desirable), Louis Vuitton (fresh, light, modern, etc.), Valentino (favourite collection from Pier Paolo Piccioli so far) and Mugler (same as apple...Mugler is always consistent).

DECENT: Max Mara (nice collection but I definitely preferred last season), Dries Van Noten (not his best but still very lovely), and Chanel (unsure about the whole plastic idea but there were a bunch of pieces that I loved).

BAD: Dior (I just can't deal with this brand anymore...thanks a lot Maria Grazia), Lanvin (not even sure how the clothes correlated to the Lanvin brand name), Chloe (Actually didn't dislike the collection but it felt like Louis Vuitton 2.0 which it shouldn't be - it should be freakin' Chloe!), Michael Kors (felt very lazy), and Prada (found maybe 2 or 3 pieces I liked...? Otherwise, very disappointed).

 

[disco54]

I'm with you. This is the worst fashion season I've ever experienced.

OMG haha we must be long lost twins, I was thinking the same.

As a member of TfS for nearly 11 years, I can say as well this has to be THE WORST fashion week I have ever seen in my life and on this board. It was devoid of anything attractive or note worthy, most of the clothes were unflattering and repetitive.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ And what's kind of striking is that even reliable designers like Dries, Haider, and Karl are off their game.

I went to lunch with a friend not long ago, and at one point she leaned in and said, "It's really terrible I know, but ever since the election, I've eaten bacon every day." Could this fashion season be another symptom of the malaise?!

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Best: Jacquemus, singular with this honor and by gaping lead.

Good:Haider Ackermann, Comme des Garçon, CELÍNE, and The Row.
None of these reinvented the wheel or did anything truly spectacular but they did what they did best and gave us solid collections.

WORST: DIOR. Maria should have been fired and escorted out before the last model hit the runway.
Mary Katrantzou. She does not give a single f**k anymore.
Gypsy Sport. Just look.

Saddest: Marni and Lanvin. It is depressing watching these brands suffer a slow death.

At this point I follow the seasons just to see how much worse it will get, and this was yet another season we descended further into mediocrity. 95% of the collections were either unremarkable, repetitive, unnecessary, or just plain bad. 4% were offensively heinous, and only the remaining 1% showed actual promise. It was strikingly clear this season that the vanguards are crumbling; DIOR was a joke, Prada, LV, and Chanel were unremarkable, Givenchy was a disappointment, Saint Laurent, Gucci, Balenciaga, and others were the same mess as usual. Troubling part is that there aren’t enough new brands/designers to fill the vacuum top brands are vacating.

 

[billiejbob]

BEST: Versace (amazing tribute to Gianni and the first time Donatella has done trashy in a good way) and Jacquemus who I hope gets offered a job as head designer for one of these dying brands like Lanvin.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS: Chanel and Louis Vuitton (which I usually hate).

WORST: Dior - there was not ONE single redeeming element to the collection except for Sasha opening. Also Lanvin which is just so sad and Gucci which again proves that Michele is a painter and not an artist. Oh, and D&G but they've been like that for how many seasons now...

 

[reese06]

BEST: Versace, even if just for the energy the show provided.

Louis Vuitton, Beautiful ready to wear. Probably his best collection to date at the house. Great pants, dresses and tops. As a guy I would love to own a pair of the pants.

Thom Browne, fun, humorous, memorable. completely underrated imo.

Saint Laurent

MEH: Chanel. Styling was completely off for me. Some beautiful pieces though.
Balenciaga: Great setting and mood. His strongest collection for the house but still lacking in longevity. Too of the moment for my liking

Worst: Gucci, it's time to move on. Zara has appropriated this look now down to the crystal embroidery.

Givenchy, not a great debut

Dior, the absolute worst collection of the season. Should be fired.

Lanvin. no comments needed.

 

[gossiping]

Best Shows:
missoni, etro, chloe, valentino, moncler gamme rouge, no.21

Other good ones:
balenciaga, burberry, calvin klein, versace, chanel, dior

Bad:
most of london, lanvin, gucci, marni, celine, prada disappointed me, roberto cavalli,loewe, givenchy, stella mccartney

 

[kenndale]

Best: Simone Rocha, Versace, LV, Etro, Pringle of Scotland, DVF


Worst: Hermes, Burucci (Burberry), Ferragamo, Prada, Phillip Plein

 

[Fashionstuff]

Best :
1)Gucci
2)Louis Vuitton
3)Versace

Good were following for me : Valentino,Chanel, Haider Ackermann, CDG.

Worst
1) Lanvin
2) Dior
3) Dolce&Gabbana
4)CAvalli

 

[ToniOrtega]

Best: Versace, Fendi, Tom Ford, Jacquemus, Etro, Louis Vuitton, and Commes De Garcon

Worst: Lanvin and Dior!

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It wasn't a horrible season, I thought Milan was the highlight of the season. Paris had a few shining moments, as well as a few disappointments. London was just London, nothing new or unexpected. Overall very predictable. New York was worse than usual, actually it was quite pitiful.

Best:

Marc Jacobs
Calvin Klein
Fendi
Prada
Bottega Veneta
Marni
Versace
Chloe- Winner of the best debut of the season. It was exciting, and fresh! Light, and easy.
Dries Van Noten
Valentino
Maison Martin Margiela
Come De Garçons
Saint Laurent- He's doing whatever he wants, and couldn't care less. That type of confidence is commendable. I liked it!
Jaquemus
Louis Vuitton- The lack of proper hair and makeup, sloppy styling on some looks, and only 2 shoe styles gets major points deducted. The rest was ambitious and fresh, It made up for the points I mentioned. It's nowhere near as good as his first two collections, or last spring, but It comes in 4th place of all his LV shows so far.

Worst:
Alexander Wang
Burberry
Balmain
Lanvin
Dior
Givenchy
Miu Miu

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

BEST
Jacquemas - it was just so pretty and light handed unlike most collections these days.
Chloe - even though it looked like LV 2.0, I think she’s gonna do good things for the house.
Louis Vuitton - usually NG has been somewhat of a disappointment for the house, but those frock coats and layered pieces with the deconstructed corsets were just beautiful and took me back to his early 2000’s days for Balenciaga.
Undercover - Jun Takahashi delivers as usual, he narrative was creepy and beautiful, and the clothes matched. I loved the concept of reversible clothes.
Céline - Phoebe has stolen my heart with her retro oversized shapes that bark back to my childhood and she doesn’t make it look so try hard like demna and co.

GOOD
No. 21
Rochas
Givenchy
Marni
Simone Rochas

BAD
-just honestly everything else. Fashion has become so mediocre and lazy that I can’t bother to pay attention much anymore. I want to keep loving fashion as I did when I got into it around 13 years ago but all the houses I once loved have changed so much and there’s no excitement anymore.

 

[StoneSkipper]

Well, it's been a jarring ride for all of us, it seems. It really feels like we're in the middle of a creative blackout (in various areas, too), and while I can't deny the effect that our collective rose-colored glasses have a huge effect on our view, I also can't deny fashion just isn't nearly as exciting as, say, ten years ago, heck, maybe even five. Fashion is imploding on itself, and hopefully we'll be left with some new and improved talent after the fallout.
I do believe, however, that the good fashion we have is completely out of the radar - not the new faces being pushed by the hype machine, and certainly not the heritage houses, but the small, independent houses that still experiment and adapt, that don't exist in a vacuum as the rest of the industry; It's important that we know where to look if we want to find freshness and excitement at all.

BEST
3.1 Phillip Lim
Antonio Berardi
BY. Bonnie Young
Erika Cavallini
Esteban Cortazar
Etro
Faustine Steinmetz
Jacquemus
Krizia
Toga
Honorable mentions: Fendi, Gucci, Lemaire, Marques'Almeida, Marta Jakubowski, Pringle of Scotland, Tome, Yang Li, Yohji Yamamoto

WORST
Anya Hindmarch
Carolina Herrera
Christian Dior
Dolce & Gabbana Secret Show
Emilio Pucci
Lanvin
Marni
Molly Goddard
Nexy.Co
Salvatore Ferragamo
Dishonorable mentions: Balmain, Fatima Lopes, Linder, Osman