Blumarine: Anna Molinari just may be Milan’s biggest hippie, always favoring a rich boho look suited to Talitha Getty, Stevie Nicks or other soulful divas of yore. For her spring Blumarine collection, Molinari turned to the dark continent of Africa. But don’t expect Masai warriors or tribal flourishes. This girl is more the adventurous colonial sort, who’d be happy to carry on her kind of missionary work in Rick’s Cafe.
Molinari opened the show with a series of African souvenir prints. Though cute in their novelty, they were a little too close to Prada for comfort. That misstep aside, the rest of the collection was pure Molinari. Flowering bougainvillea and leopard spots mixed beautifully when printed together on turquoise or fuchsia silk and cut into flowing dresses, either knee-length or floor-sweeping, topped by cropped safari jackets with mirrored embroidery or mosaic-patterned knits, sometimes with leopard-printed fur trim. On the softer side, there were white muslin dresses, all flounced and tucked, or fluttery-sleeved blouses paired with silver paillette skirts, all cinched with Berber belts in antique silver. Molinari called the collection Desert Rose, and what a lovely bloom it was.