Bottega Veneta F/W 2022.23 Milan

[Frederic01]

BOTTEGA VENETA

 

[perhydrol]

This show is so great, even if some of the experiments weren't completely successful. I could live without that faux fur and shiny looks, but the rest was wonderful and solid. They managed to get rid of the tortured ugliness of Lee's tenure and turn Bottega into something truly interesting again. There are some fun pieces, for example, the red fur shoes, but at the same time, this collection is rooted in reality so everything feels well-balanced.

 

[Norden]

This feels super mature and desirable. some of those patchwork dresses remind me of old balenciaga. Marvelous work.

 

[HelgaZ]

I really liked the skirts and dresses made of leather- elegant and modern at he same time, some bags and shoes, as well as tailoring and working with leather. There is no unnecessary grotesque that Lee had. These are wearable things, unlike what Lee did.

 

[perhydrol]

^^Actually, I wouldn't be surprised if Matthieu referenced his work for Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal line. He did that kind of patchwork back then, just on different, longer silhouettes.

 

[YohjiAddict]

A bit uneven but for a debut it’s quite good, definitely better than the pretentious dreck his predecessor used to showcase. Loved the dress on Mariacarla and the Peau d’Ane fur vests!

 

[yslforever]

Extremely desirable, even elegant. Some misses but overall it is an impressive improvement. I applaud the new departure

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Kind of reminds me of the Prada women's collection in some parts, but I think this was a good starting base to develop from. . Happy to not be bombarded by that ugly Bottega green.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[dior_couture1245]

It's pretty much what I anticipated. Uneventful. Predictable. Boring.

Where's the story? Who is this woman? Where is she going? What does she do? What does she dream about?

 

[Lola701]

It’s a nice debut.
I think with this collection, he has kind of managed to reconciliate the historic BV customer with the new edgier, more fashion savy customer. The kind of pillow bags and boxes were mixed with the return of the classic intrecciato.

I also love the attempt to be maybe more creative. I liked what Daniel Lee proposed but it was more or less a variation of fashion from the FW 2000 season (Gucci FW2000 on top) with some interesting accessories and colors.

The tailoring is great. The kind of classic Balenciaga take on a classic peacoat turned out to not be such a classic piece anymore.

Overall a good collection….But, there aren’t really any must-have eye-catching pieces.
I think one of Daniel’s Lee strength was both his eye for colors and his knitwear. Those beautiful browns, red, blues, the mix of colors, the cognac…

I’m curious to see what Blazy’s prefall look like and how his campaign will elevate the collection.

Because this is beautiful but not impactful enough which is pity because when I saw his take on sequins, I was excited to see that translated in daywear.

But with time, maybe he will give us what we want.

 

[Living Proof]

Cute debut with some desirable womenswear pieces, menswear silhouettes are still a bit clunky. What I'm not going to do though, is putting him on a pedestal (especially when compared against Lee), for designing "wearable clothes", because this collection is just not the 180-type turnaround some people are making it out to be. It's miles better than SS22 but to be fair that was also by far Lee's worst collection. I enjoyed this about as much as I did SS21 which I believe was also a very Blazy-heavy collection. Idk, people seem to be unreasonably harsh on Lee and get very caught up in some of the more contrived looks Lee put out while completely dismissing the desirable moments, and there were many. I understand it's cool to jump on the bashwagon and there might be legit reasons for that, but the exaggeration is getting a bit much.

 

[Frederic01]

Blazy seems like such a nice guy, but unfortunately it seems Daniel Lee was the superior talent. This collection is very derivative of a lot of other designers work. I see Lucie and Luke for Jil Sander everywhere in this, some Raf for Calvin Klein, and even some Gabriela Hearst for Chloe.

What was good about Daniel Lee was that he had a very strong and visible aesthetic. He established signatures every quickly and early on in his collections. I don't see any Blazy signatures here? If anything there is way too much randomness in the collection and far too many ideas competing for air time to the point where it makes the collection look very weak IMO. The colour palette is very weak too, which was one of Lee's strong points too.

The menswear is a non-event and a complete let down. It looks like the scraps of Tomas Maier. So disappointing.

 

[Frederic01]

I’m curious to see what Blazy’s prefall look like and how his campaign will elevate the collection.

Pre-Fall is very basic and more like a palette cleanser between Lee and Blazy. Very commercial and not interesting at all. I don't believe it was worked on that much by Blazy, so expect a lot of those Bottega signatures that Lee established throughout his tenure!

 

[Marc10]

Such a great collection. He treaded every live very well. It's not big departure from Daniel's language, but he added a lot more substance and maturity. His experience shined here, the tailoring was perfect, beautiful craftsmanship, everything looks desirable, including the accessories. It's definitely a step forward for the brand, excited to see where he takes it from here.

Bravo Matthieu!

 

[Lola701]

Pre-Fall is very basic and more like a palette cleanser between Lee and Blazy. Very commercial and not interesting at all. I don't believe it was worked on that much by Blazy, so expect a lot of those Bottega signatures that Lee established throughout his tenure!

Is the color palette nice at least? Or the knitwear desirable (and one shearling coat thrown out there?)?

 

[gossiping]

it got better as the show went on, i really liked it much more wearable, nothing out of this world though..

 

[Living Proof]

What was good about Daniel Lee was that he had a very strong and visible aesthetic. He established signatures every quickly and early on in his collections. I don't see any Blazy signatures here? If anything there is way too much randomness in the collection and far too many ideas competing for air time to the point where it makes the collection look very weak IMO. The colour palette is very weak too, which was one of Lee's strong points too.

This, Lee had a point of view, that's what gave his collections the aura and made them intriguing, even if they were "ugly". Reminds me a bit of being in fashion school, the tutors used to shout at us saying "stop trying to make everything pretty, have a point of view!"