Bottega Veneta F/W 2022.23 Milan

[susseinmcswanny]

I kinda love the green fish print sequin dress in look 43 but I hate the way it's cut on the bottom.

I'm not sure what I really think of him yet, but I liked Tomas Maier for this brand. I will keep watching and give him a chance tho. I really did not like the customer they were trying to create under Daniel Lee. It was too fashion victim-y. No more people thinking they're Phoebe Philo please.

Also I know I'm becoming the annoying price police lol but I would be even more willing to give him a chance if Kering didn't keep this as another fake artisanal $1000 viscose sweater brand.

 

[Frederic01]

Is the color palette nice at least? Or the knitwear desirable (and one shearling coat thrown out there?)?

It's very standard Daniel Lee. I don't want to say too much because they might change it at the last minute just like they did last season (Resort 2022). For that collection there was some drama (!) with the prints and they had to be changed at the last minute. They also cut a lot of looks from the original offering for some reason. A lot of looks are missing from Vogue Runway, probably at the behest of Daniel Lee, to make a stronger and more edited collection for the press.

You have to respect how much thought and consideration went into those collections. We don't see all these details as the audience, but Lee worked tirelessly behind the scenes on his creative direction, always trying to finesse the work and make it more dynamic. I completely respect that.

Blazy needs to learn how to edit. He can't just throw everything in without any coherence whatsoever. He is not Phoebe Philo, who was arguably the master of that very expressive and instinctive design approach.

 

[THD96]

It's not bad, but I'm underwhelming by it, I have the same feeling for this collection as Anthony debut for SL. I think the new BV will have the same approach, at least Matthew is a better menswear designer than Anthony.

This collection feel very Helmut Lang at the beginning, which I think it's natural since Matthew is from Raf team. The show needs to be more concentrate, edit those tank tops and white shirts looks out and add more knitwear then the show can be more impactful.

The most memorable look in this collection is the sequins kiwi dress.

What this collection is missing is knitwear. Daniel knitwear became his best hits for the house. It's luxurious, innovative and recognizable. All the knitwear here is very pedestrian.

 

[WAVES]

I loved it.
a few unnecessary choices but definitely filled with great ideas, very good cut and proportion, creative designs (the leather coats, the skirts were beautiful, the printed dresses), menswear was fantastic - I could easily wear all of the black pieces.
overall, original and brightly made.
well done!

 

[RedSmokeRise]

I love the energy of it but it's too early to tell (for me at least). Going to wait a few more seasons to see him mature and refine things a bit.

 

[Ruito]

Daniel Lee wouldn't go very far and make a very different collection, but still I thought this collection was rather boring and uninspired, lacked identity and (in my view) desirability.

 

[tctra]

this is so staid. it's daniel lee without the life injected to it

 

[Overindulgence]

I'm slightly disappointed by this, I really wanted to like this but I just can't bring myself to it. Say what you will about Daniel Lee's collections but there was always an energy to them--an energy that's lacking, perhaps missing, in this collection/show. Great soundtrack though!

 

[Frederic01]

SHOWSTUDIO

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I'm glad that shade of green is out. I never liked it here at Bottega and I don't like it anywhere else; a shade that made my retinas recoil because it was the flattest yet most assaulting green because it was used so much and said nothing as a colour. Although Blazy looks to be adding a different shade of green to be his mainstay considering how many variations there are here.

I did enjoy Lee's early collections for the brand because it was such a stark contrast to what was there before so it was interesting to see this intense shift. As he continued it got tired and mangled, very quickly. Unfortunately for Blazy, there's no impact here. Even if a collection whispers, like his work at Margiela, it can have an impact but there's something here that feels like the interim period at Dior (post-Raf/pre-Maria). Something wasn't pushed far enough to give it tension or more substance so the collection just simmers. It is much more mature and less gimmicky than Lee's which I am thankful for.

This is a debut collection, so it is okay, but with all the PR hoopla going on about Blazy's appointment one would expect a little more.

 

[TianCouture]

I don't think I've heard so many flat out dumb opinions as I have just now in that ShowStudio video. Also enough with the green. Philo used it JUST as much if not more at Céline

 

[susseinmcswanny]

OmfG I miss when showstudio panels had like Lou and Finn and Mimma

 

[Rigida]

Amazing debut in my opinion

 

[tatouejeremie]

not very convincing, none of the bags make an impact on me and the outerwear feels very generic
the most successful looks for me are the ones daniel lee could've shown

 

[liberty33r1b]

nothing exciting a month from now no one will remember this

 

[Lola701]

nothing exciting a month from now no one will remember this

But at the same time, do we remember anything from the Detroit show?

 

[Nomar]

A solid debut and he clearly played it very safe. It's nice to finally see less of that obnoxious colour blocking Lee did every season. With that being said, the accessories here were quite weak. Still, I'm interested to see what he does next.

 

[Olaffo]

It is very predictable debut as the moment he has been announced as creative director, we already knew it will look exactly like that. It is heavily based on Daniel's aesthetic that the only one shift I can see is to drop that dreadful green (I agree) and make it more sterile (which I don't agree). The menswear is no show, some of the silhouettes should be edited, accessories are just a merger of PP and BV which isn't terrible but definitely nothing new.

I am always looking for an establishment of one's own aesthetic after 3 first collections so MB still has a time to find his space there, but let's not expect anything more than dependable, reliable and predictable continuation of DL codes.

 

[donyan]

I like this so much more than the past few collections. There are some beautiful clothes, the bags are gorgeous without screaming 'Instagram', and the vibe in general is that of real collection, not a bunch of weird stuff that never makes it to the stores anyway. It's a good debut. I'm excited to see what he does once he settles in and feels more comfortable.

 

[Bernie Flood]

celine-phoebe philo, Jil Sander and Prada all together. great debut, Hope he stays longer than Daniel Lee