Bottega Veneta F/W 2022.23 Milan

[Negresco]

Firstly - I love so many of those people on that ShowStudio panel, but they all sounded asleep, so many 'yeahs'... except for Vincenzo who held the entire conversation, and he was the one who felt like he didn't deserve to be on there (always the way).
Side note - also very tacky to talk about the departure of Daniel to open that.

Mathieu is a sweetheart, but this collection feels like everything we've seen out there - Jil Sander, Raf, and Celine. So much pressure though, let's give him some time, this wasn't groundbreaking.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Where's the story? Who is this woman? Where is she going? What does she do? What does she dream about?

I think I figured out who she is…SHE OWNS AN ART GALLERY!! DUH!

Every designer’s muse now is a “woman in the go - powerful, business owner - art gallery owner.” I really don’t think I can stomach anymore Philo/Celine fashion. I can’t. Like, WOW, a funky shoe! A quirky bag! A crafty sweater! A leather dress! Natural makeup and hair! WOW!

Its exhausting.

Let’s try, even just a tiny bit, to be a little more imaginative, ok?

Looked through the collection again and I have to say, I actually hate it. It’s not baaaad, but it’s just exactly what you expect it to be. It’s really a feat to be this predictable.

 

[Mathewthew]

The bag didn't seems too interesting and that's make me worry. I like his collection, there's always something interesting, but I'm sure they want someone to keep up the sales.

 

[Frederic01]

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[Frederic01]

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[Frederic01]

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[Frederic01]

VOGUE RUNWAY

 

[Mathewthew]

Wait, I saw on IG that the white tank top and and jeans are actually leather?? That's insteresting !!
I love the jacket silhouttes~ That's nice.

 

[brandon J pierre]

It's pretty much what I anticipated. Uneventful. Predictable. Boring.

Where's the story? Who is this woman? Where is she going? What does she do? What does she dream about?

Does any what you just said apply to fashion in the year 2022 and beyond? where is she going? you got to be kidding me !

 

[Lola701]

The close-up are really interesting because the subtlety of the color palette really make sense.
There’s something that I didn’t highlight but the profile of the pant suits is to die for! Those are things I love! What a fabulous sleeve and pant!

The platforms Mary Janes gives me Balenciaga FW2006 vibes.

It’s a pity he didn’t continued with Marie Chaix tho.

 

[style_expert]

With a few exceptions, the bags and shoes are pretty good! The collection as a whole doesn’t make sense at all, but there are some desirable pieces. I think it’s an improvement over Daniel Lee for sure. Time for Bottega to return to discreet luxury instead of screaming hype, there is such a huge untapped market there.

 

[Frederic01]

It’s a pity he didn’t continued with Marie Chaix tho.

What happened to Chaix anyway? It appears as if the last Bottega show she styled was Spring Summer 2021? After that there are not credits for any fashion stylist up until this show? Did Daniel Lee do it himself?

Alastair McKimm is such a strange choice for a brand like Bottega Veneta IMO. Some of those looks were very questionable, like the oversized mens shirt and thigh high boots and also the evening dresses at the end paired with the day-bags and metallic thigh-high boots. It looks very tacky/trashy and the opposite of that effortless cool that defined Daniel Lee's aesthetic at the house.

 

[Frederic01]

The bag didn't seems too interesting and that's make me worry. I like his collection, there's always something interesting, but I'm sure they want someone to keep up the sales.

I was thinking the same! Everything in this collection looks very expensive. I don't see any potential commercial hits in any of this. The womens shoes for example are predominantly either thigh-high intrecciato ($$$) and/or leather and the heels are predominately in alligator. In terms of the bags, well I see a potential hit-maker in that little intreciatto bucket bag that Mariacarla is wearing, but otherwise? What is the replacement for their previous bestsellers like the Jodie, Pouch, Arco, and Cassette? I see they are trying to push this new bag called "Kalimero" that you can Pre-Order, but the price! $7500USD! The price of the Mini-Jodie (one of BV's top top sellers) is around $2250USD. The cassette is around $3500USD, and the pouch is around $3000USD.



Blazy must have a lot of pull at the brand because most of this collection is fantasy clothing. On the whole, there is little consideration for practical and commercial clothes in any of this apart from a few peacoats and cotton dresses, which could be from any brand, let's be honest.

Also, the decision to remove all the little BV signatures and defining details that Daniel Lee established like the inverted v on the breast-pocket of the jackets/coats and the triangle hardware details on the bags, was a very bad decision IMO. Those were the kind of things that added a point-of-difference to the product. What signatures has Blazy added to his product?

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Oke but I kind of stan the deletion of the triangle. It was like Gretchen Wieners trying to make "fetch" happen. Same with the green. It had no real meaning or value. It popped out of thin air. None of it seemed to be any sort of self discovered signature. It was just like "hmm okay this is what we are gonna do. We need to brand so we are gonna put triangles in everything and pick a shocking ugly color and that's what's gonna be considered iconic for the brand. This way we'll be able to charge a lot of money because of the recognizable luxury status". Like it literally had no value. I don't know the story behind Hermes orange or Tiffany blue but "Bottega green" is just so contrived and irrelevant it cannot compare. Just as much as the triangles. I'm so glad it's gone. I don't know how people ate that up so much. That is something to be studied.

By the way, this delusional $7500 bag that costs like probably a couple hundred dollars to make is so indicative of the state of the world we're in right now. End of times behavior.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Also I want that stupid Fing fish dress lol even tho I'm a man and have no use for it

 

[LadyJunon]

What happened to Chaix anyway? It appears as if the last Bottega show she styled was Spring Summer 2021? After that there are not credits for any fashion stylist up until this show? Did Daniel Lee do it himself?

Chaix is doing Schiaparelli and Courrèges now.

 

[Frederic01]

Oke but I kind of stan the deletion of the triangle. It was like Gretchen Wieners trying to make "fetch" happen. Same with the green. It had no real meaning or value. It popped out of thin air. None of it seemed to be any sort of self discovered signature. It was just like "hmm okay this is what we are gonna do. We need to brand so we are gonna put triangles in everything and pick a shocking ugly color and that's what's gonna be considered iconic for the brand. This way we'll be able to charge a lot of money because of the recognizable luxury status". Like it literally had no value. I don't know the story behind Hermes orange or Tiffany blue but "Bottega green" is just so contrived and irrelevant it cannot compare. Just as much as the triangles. I'm so glad it's gone. I don't know how people ate that up so much. That is something to be studied.

Personally, I thought the green was pretty iconic. Having a signature colour is a clever creative gesture, as you mentioned, like the Hermes Orange and Tiffany Blue. It gives the brand more of a signature and point of difference, don't you think? We also have way too many brands that make literally the same garments and nothing differentiates them. I am thinking of the black tuxedo, which is at every single brand. At least having the inverted pocket and the metallic v closure on the cuff (on the Bottega tuxedo) is something to separate it from other tuxedos on the market. Ditto the V belt closure. It may not appeal to everyone, but at least you know its Bottega! As a customer, I want to see details that are unique to that brand, even if it is subtle (like in stitching details or in hardware) or in the choice of packaging. I don't want to see the same jacket or dress replicated and carbon-copied in every single luxury brand with just a change of the tag.

Sadly the green will be phased out. Apparently Blazy is considering pale yellow as the future signature BV colour. The models backstage were wearing the bathrobe in the yellow that could replace the green. It makes me LOL because every brand now is in a race to make yellow their signature colour. Tiffany had a trial run of rebranded yellow packaging recently and I see Raf is making yellow a major focus at Prada.

 

[Living Proof]

Personally, I thought the green was pretty iconic. Having a signature colour is a clever creative gesture, as you mentioned, like the Hermes Orange and Tiffany Blue. It gives the brand more of a signature and point of difference, don't you think? We also have way too many brands that make literally the same garments and nothing differentiates them. I am thinking of the black tuxedo, which is at every single brand. At least having the inverted pocket and the metallic v closure on the cuff (on the Bottega tuxedo) is something to separate it from other tuxedos on the market. Ditto the V belt closure. It may not appeal to everyone, but at least you know its Bottega! As a customer, I want to see details that are unique to that brand, even if it is subtle (like in stitching details or in hardware) or in the choice of packaging. I don't want to see the same jacket or dress replicated and carbon-copied in every single luxury brand with just a change of the tag.

Sadly the green will be phased out. Apparently Blazy is considering pale yellow as the future signature BV colour. The models backstage were wearing the bathrobe in the yellow that could replace the green. It makes me LOL because every brand now is in a race to make yellow their signature colour. Tiffany had a trial run of rebranded yellow packaging recently and I see Raf is making yellow a major focus at Prada.

It’s branding 101 to have a signature colour and a subtle symbol that’s not a logo. It’s one thing to knock those decisions bc the bandwagon got out of hand, it’s another to say they didn’t make sense, bc they made total sense.

Also, if people thought Daniel Lee prices were bad just wait for this collection, hardly anything will be under £2000.

 

[velvetandsilk]

VOGUE.COM

The skirts is nice reference to Mariano Fortuny, but it is very entry level execution.
Too much ideas in one collection, but not bad. After his three regular collection I will be to start analysis his vision.

 

[matheus_s]

The pillow bag is everything