Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2023 Milan | the Fashion Spot
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Bottega Veneta Pre-Fall 2023 Milan

I like it. It's a very strong offering for a commercial collection.

My favorite looks are the red and brown Intrecciato top and bottoms. A great way to incorporate their signature into their Rtw.
I like that the menswear is on par with the womenswear. The evening wear is gorgeous.
I can see a few hints of Raf CK here and there in the collection, but it does not bother me much.
The styling can be better, I see a lot of good separates that were drowning in weak styling. I don't think Alastair McKimm is the right stylist for Matthieu.
 
There are some simple ideas I like that are executed well, in both the men's and women's clothes, and a few missteps like most of the men's shoes.

It doesn't look like a cheap mall brand, and it doesn't look like it's trying desperately too hard -- and at this point, that already sets it comfortably above a lot of contemporary collections.

The photography of those two intrecciato close-ups seems out of place compared to the rest of the lookbook. (And what's up with the open fly?)
 
I really like the last dress. The clunky ugly shoes though... we gotta start moving on. It's spoiling the vibes for me.
 
The styling can be better, I see a lot of good separates that were drowning in weak styling. I don't think Alastair McKimm is the right stylist for Matthieu.
Honestly, McKimm is sort of a weak stylist, as least for runways and collection shoots.

I remember when Anthony Vaccarello first hired McKimm to style his SS'15 show and his collections sort of lost their severity and it carried through to his Saint Laurent. It was only when he was replaced by Paul Sinclaire for SS'20, that his Saint Laurent truly started to shine.

If Sinclaire could do what he did for Vaccarello, imagine what he could do for Blazy.

(And what's up with the open fly?)
They needed to complete "Pinault's Quintet of Sexuallly Deviant Fashion Houses" somehow.
 
Great textures and clothes but I never get emotional about purchasing anything from him. Maybe my taste level isn't there but I don't find his clothes to be fun.

While nice and a lot of times beautiful, something about them feels heavy handed and there is a lack of humor.
 
Very beautiful, serious and somehow interesting looking clothes. I feel like if someone buys a piece from this collection, it’s worth it! I like a lot of pieces and prefer this to the very « intellectual and edgy » main FW collection.

‘Still a lot of issues with the accessories…
But the sardine bag and more than that, the brown leather bag are exceptional.
2000€ for that bag is like a steal at this point and it’s totally the bag I want now…
 
The shoes gotta go. Come on now, most of them are soooo clunky and annoyingly distracting. Also not a fan of that first look. Immediately thought of both Demna and Proenza with it.

For the most part though, I really enjoy this particularly from a technical level. I see a lot of adaptations from Nakamichi's series "Pattern Magic" (they didn't originate the techniques, but they are tomes in which they are displayed clearly) and Kirke's "Vionnet" book. Particularly love the swirly red with the offset layer underneath which appears to be a circular knit/seamless all together.

Could do without the peekaboo hem ruffles/layers. I can sense they wanted to do a slighty intellectual sexy feel akin to prime Prada, but they end up making the looks feel more modest especially with the stiff looking boots.
 
It's a nice collection, and probably one of his best, yet somehow it still isn't what it could and should be? Everything is so formal with no really convincing take on daywear which makes me wonder how they plan to make money in the future, you know with Gen Z and Gen Alpha becoming increasingly more important in terms of spending?

Under Daniel Lee, Bottega at least had those kind of "hype" items that kept the money rolling in like the pouch bag, the puddle boot, and that square toed pump that was a top-seller. What has been the "hit maker" for Blazy? It's been quite a few collections now and I don't see any? Every designer needs one. Maria Grazia had those "J'Adior" slingbacks, Nicolas had the Petite Malle.

I digress. I also see the pricing has gone up again for this collection which is crazy. That dog jumper (arguably the only hype-y item in the entire collection) is priced at $3900USD. The Intrecciato leather metallic pants are $11,300USD and that first look - the pink t-shirt is leather and is $4800USD. They really are targeting a niche audience with these kinds of collections and increasingly so. I wonder how that will work out for them considering Phoebe is coming back soon...
 
7.9/10

some really ugly and awkward looks are unforgiveable given bottegas standing. Its a cozy collection and makes me think of like fireplaces and the warm light it gives. Its too all over the place to actually be a proposition and is just “vibes”. The opening coats and finale eveningwear were the strongest and most original parts.
 
Something about it all reminds me of Zara the same way Luke and Lucy Meier's Jil Sander reminds me of COS.
 

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