Bottega Veneta Resort 2024 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[youthinasia]

This looks much more fun than the SS24 offering

 

[Thefrenchy]

A whole lot of nothing. So loud... Nice casting though.

 

[jeanclaude]

Basics mixed with random crap.

 

[Frederic01]

Again for the hundredth time: too many competing and clashing ideas and not enough editing. It may be creative and experimental, but with each passing collection, Blazy only reiterates the fact that he is indeed more suited to the role of a studio director rather than an artistic/creative director.

And again, what is going on with the menswear? So bizarre. I thought the mission was to bring back more of a classic Tomas Maier clientele? So far, these menswear propositions (even though they are modelled by older men) are not convincing.

The casting is also a bit flat, no? Considering the kind of interesting and dynamic faces that Daniel Lee had in his Pre-Fall / Resort look books, Blazy's casting looks quite boring.

 

[Kimihiro]

I feel like they just had to pull up the obligatory “interesting” pieces to the merchandising mix. I hope they’re just trying to pull an AV at YSL and will gradually transition into something more coherent.

 

[Thefrenchy]

Again for the hundredth time: too many competing and clashing ideas and not enough editing. It may be creative and experimental, but with each passing collection, Blazy only reiterates the fact that he is indeed more suited to the role of a studio director rather than an artistic/creative director.

And again, what is going on with the menswear? So bizarre. I thought the mission was to bring back more of a classic Tomas Maier clientele? So far, these menswear propositions (even though they are modelled by older men) are not convincing.

Agree, and absolutely second that the menswear is hideous. This look imgbox - fast, simple image host truly is one of the ugliest proposals I've seen recently.

Also, can we PLEASE get a break from those "I Can't Believe It's Leather" pieces? We get it now. Is that all he has to offer?

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I can't really make much sense of this all as one offering. The men's got the shorter straw, either being straight up awful as pieces or styled terribly. Prevents any of them from feeling classic or timeless, which is what you'd want a bit of from Bottega.

Even though there are a lot of experimental pieces ideas, the experimentation of it all feels rather common. Boxed in, typical experimental and doesn't go for it so there's no real charm. It is just a resort collection, but even in a simpler collection you'd need some charm to give it presence. It's all a bit flat.

Spring/Summer collection was heavy and over wrought, but at least it was committed to its own cause. This doesn't feel like that.

 

[LadyJunon]

While I prefer Blazy's Bottega to Lee's by a long mile, the pre-collections are always lackluster.

The leather is always going to be the star of the show at Bottega. The bags and jeans were good as always and the leather sweatpants is a smart move, but the rest of the offering need a stronger direction.

They need to change their stylist and image director too.

 

[Lola701]

His clothes are great and some of his accessories are fantastic. The knot sandal is an eye candy to me…
There are fabulous pieces in this collection and I’m not tired of his trompe-l’œil in fabrics. What looks like a big chunky sweater in wool is actually shearling made to look like a cable knit sweater. It’s fantastic!

But the problem with Mr Blazy’s is that he is not surrounded by people that could translate all his ideas that he pours literally in every collection, into something digestible and easy on the eye.

When he is doing the all leather jeans, tshirt and flannel look, it has an ease that makes it desirable. It’s something that he should try to translate in the whole collection. When you have pieces with unusual cuts styled all together, it’s not something someone would be interested in.

He definitely needs a new stylist. Where is Suzanne Koller when you needs her!

 

[perhydrol]

^ The thing is, he doesn't have any stylist at all now. It's done in-house and I guess the team thinks it's a good idea to keep it that way.

However, I must say I enjoyed this collection way more than the main one. It's definitely lighter and even if there are many ideas at once, they're easier to digest than those in the spring/summer show. I love the knitwear, I think it's the most enjoyable part for me in this offering. I just hope we'll move on from the not-jeans-and-tanktop look soon, because it's getting too obvious at this point.

 

[GoldenTribe]

This look imgbox - fast, simple image host truly is one of the ugliest proposals I've seen recently.

It's a bad ensemble, but IMHO more of a styling failure rather than a design failure considering every individual item is entirely wearable. (Maybe not the shoes, but still I see uglier loafers than that every season.)

Personally I like the flecked fabric, though I wouldn't dream of a wearing jacket, shirt and bottoms (let alone shorts!) in one material.

But it seems hyperbolic, to say the least, to pick this as an example of the "ugliest" menswear these days.

 

[FashioNarrating]

The more seasons go by, the more it becomes apparent that Blazy has somewhat of an issue with directing/editing his ideas. He's likely more capable of creating beautiful things than Daniel Lee is, but presenting entirely distinctive looks/collections doesn't seem to be his thing (yet). His offerings would definitely benefit from getting a good stylist, though I'm starting to question other matters as well, such as his color sense (the drab browns and cremes mixed with crayola shades of aqua, pink and yellow don't exactly spell 'exquisite' to me) and the insistence to show off the artisanal aspect of BV in every single look or even piece. Some elements would stand out way more if they were paired with something simpler/less 'crafty', while I'm not sure others needed to be done whatsoever - who wants a camp shirt made out of thick wool, essentially a short-sleeved winter sweater with an open chest?! My favorites here are the coats with large overlapping shawl collars - that kind of sumptuous chic is what I would expect from Bottega, rather than expensive versions of plaid shirts or showing that everything including underwear can be made out of leather.

 

[Thefrenchy]

It's a bad ensemble, but IMHO more of a styling failure rather than a design failure considering every individual item is entirely wearable. (Maybe not the shoes, but still I see uglier loafers than that every season.)

Personally I like the flecked fabric, though I wouldn't dream of a wearing jacket, shirt and bottoms (let alone shorts!) in one material.

But it seems hyperbolic, to say the least, to pick this as an example of the "ugliest" menswear these days.

Well god forbid I have an opinion I confirm that it is in my opinion one of the ugliest mens look I have seen in recent seasons. This terrible print that is supposed to tweak that boring jacket, the massive collar on the shirt, the rattling tie, those heinous little shorts. All paired with this plain bag and its thick handle, and those shoes in that hideous little yellow with contrasting soles that look like they're made out of plastic. Yeah, it's bad.

 

[style_expert]

I agree with others, he really is in need of a good stylist and quite urgently so. I was definitely not a fan of Alastair Mckimm's work before but since there's no stylist at all, it got even worse.
I don't get this whole idea that a stylist is not necessary and one can edit/style their own work. Other end of the spectrum but I guess the same goes for Virginie Viard's Chanel. In both cases, any talented stylist could really elevate it all.

Such a shame because all the ingredients are there, the individual products are often great, luxurious, well crafted, desirable. Just the whole piling up makes it somewhat of an eyesore.
He definitely can design great things so I don't understand why he is so overcomplicating / overdoing it?
Lack of confidence or just not a coherent vision?

 

[Nimsay]

twitter is absolutely head over heels for this. Idk what that means since most people posting on twiter are unemployed or children.

It reminds me of PP Valentino. An incoherent mess of very chic and wearable clothes. Lots of tasty things. I do wonder why this collection seems lighter than hIs SS24 offering. How did that happen.

I think that mens striped shirt with the divers on it is so desirable. About 72% of the mens clothes is quite chic. The black twill coat shown with the atrocious striped cabat is also quite desirable.

 

[Lola701]

He's likely more capable of creating beautiful things than Daniel Lee is, but presenting entirely distinctive looks/collections doesn't seem to be his thing (yet).

I think they are quite different because Lee is much more confident as a commercial designer. There’s something obvious about the way he is designing and presenting his clothes…Even at BV. It was always about those knitwear pieces, that casual and practical allure that is quite well translated in his own Resort 2024 for Burberry.

Blazy is more experimental. And in a way, it seems like every outfit needs to be challenging either in techniques or styling.

The irony I think is that Blazy’s palette is more playful than Lee while Lee’s clothes are more light, playful to wear, because of their casual nature.

 

[Chipmetrai]

theimpression.com
Bottega Veneta Creative Director | Matthieu Blazy
Models | Badhiel Nyang, Chu Wong, Daisuke Ueda, Emma Balfour, Kris Wardak, Lara Menezes, Noah Ramos, Tess Breeden, Walid Fiher
Casting Director | Anita Bitton