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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Dec 14, 2020.
Love the presentation, I think the minimal runway visual with the bold colors really enhanced the clothes better.
Many good pieces to choose from, so happy to have a creative director not following the logo-mania trends...
I have a problem with Bottega Veneta and now I somehow don't think that Daniel Lee will last long there. His collections are getting more and more ugly with time and while he started on an extremely high note (I love his FW19 to this day), now I'm not convinced by his propositions at all. This time he went for a pretentious theme of the importance of wearing clothes. And while there are some interesting pieces, there is a lot of stuff that has to be burnt ASAP. I don't know what's worse, the knitwear, the last three looks or the looks worn by Jonas and Kiki. All those things are just vile in my opinion.
It's interesting that people seem to be interested mainly in the Pouch, the Casette, the combat boots, the sandals and the style of lookbooks for pre-collections. Those are the massive hits of Daniel Lee's tenure. However, all of them date back to his first collection. Now he's trying so hard to get the essence of the old Celine (and at the same time he's been trying to make it sexier), but the result is completely hollow. He will the one harmed the most by the comeback of Phoebe Philo.
Not my favorite collection of him. But I like it because he confident enough to move on from Phoebe aesthetic (unlike his peer Peter Do).
Minimalist people finally have some personally and not taking themselves to serious. They okay to be a little tacky. Cause it's better than people who goes to art galleries and sip champagne cause "I'm a minimalist" cough 'the row' cough.
I don't think these pictures are doing the clothes justice, it looked far better on video.
Really great collection and presentation. Focused, well edited and styled, and very desirable. Crazy about all those thick knit pieces, he made them look chic and fresh.
This is his best main collection yet even if it’s not at the level of his pre-collections.
It’s very hits/misses!
He is really good at knitwear and he is clever to milk it and make it a staple in the new BV aesthetic but the propositions in knitwear are puzzling. The twinsets, coats are cardigans are stunning but the minidresses are unflattering and looked heavy.
Alaia managed to create texture with Jersey and I think it would have been interesting for Lee to experiment with Jersey and texture rather than knitted dresses.
The classic Couture shapes are I think an influence from Blazy. The white shirt dress Is amazing.
Overall, I think that the majority of the clothes have a very now appeal but can be kept forever. I’m maybe less impressed by the accessories. Tbh, that’s the thing I’m less into regarding his BV.
‘The presentation is maybe the best I’ve seen so far in terms of « runway shows ».
One thing is sure is that the campaign will be great!
^^^ Don’t think the new Bottega customer cares how awkward his minidresses drape. This isn’t the customer that grew up on Alaia— who’ve learned to be discerning and critical of how construction drapes on a woman’s form. It’s a whole new generation who’s after clout by wearing a brand’s signature. And that’s what I see here: Admittedly nice, decent simplicity that’s also heavy on building a signature-- with an all-new level of hideous with the cheap doll’’s footwear.
(LOL @the Walmart foldout chairs…)
i loved the chunky mini dresses layered on top of the chunky knitted t-shirts
i'm very surprised knitwear has proven to be the category he excels as that wasn't a category he worked on at previous jobs
lots of nice ideas in the collection to look at, but to buy.. no
Bring back the guy who designed the first collection...because this is clearly made by another person!
One hit wonder. This trash belongs to NYFW.
His aesthetic trajectory is bizarre but I love the accessories so sign me up. Whatever they fucked up here, they'll make up on the campaign.
Btw, when I don't like his collection I am always looking at his shirtless picture, it calms me and I can go back to my business.
Judging by his work at this brand, I am beginning to think that was the reason why he got the job here to begin with...
The knit pieces are so hideous, I cannot help but like them...and yes it's just because it's refreshing to see some risk after so much blandness from these off-calendar shows.
I think I lost all my strength after commenting on the Dior thread... I can’t see anything properly. it reminds me of that ‘Clueless’ quote when Cher says that Amber (Amber? too tired to Google), is like a Monet painting.
it doesn’t look good.
that blue denim thing is disgusting.
I've noticed that since his first collection, his work at BV is a lot softer now. I think I preferred the former approach but this is still a decent collection. I must say that because his clothes are quite fitted or have fitted elements, they literally only look good on people of a model stature. On a normal person these would look nowhere near as good.
I can almost detect which pieces were more Blazy-influenced. Overall, I thought the collection was nice; it was rather feminine and optimistic which I appreciate during these times.
And I agree with what some of you said in that at least the campaign will be nice and elevate the clothes more. I hope Bottega Veneta keeps working with Tyrone Lebon because it's a strong partnership. I'm starting to get nervous Juergen Teller will get involved due to: 1) Juergen's history at Celine, 2) him being in attendance at the show I believe, and 3) him photographing Daniel.
Its a nice collection. Not enough for me to buy it, as few things are just not my style but I can say some looks are nice to look at. For Philo's Celine, I own and like her earlier Celine and her minimal sexier Celine pieces rather than the later sacky ones. It was just not my style but I could still acknowledged her work.
Personally, my problem with Daniel Lee is this:
I just had a talk with a friend few days ago about Rothko. I was whining about how easy it must have been for him to "just" block painted his canvas ( as I am painting myself, in another style, which feels hard and so long to finish it). And that if I would paint and work in Rothkos style, I would produce hundreds of works a year
But my friend corrected me. First, its not easy at all and second, he had an urge to paint like this. It naturally came out of him. A lot of Artists who see and admire original works try to paint like the original, but you can always tell and see its not the real thing. there will always be something slightly off. Even if its nice at first sight. But its missing the painters own personal story which would make it unique. They think its easy to just plurge colour like Pollock or block paint like Rothko. But liking a style and to try doing the same doesnt work.
Clearly I know fashion and fashion buisness is different. as long as it looks nice and makes you look nice it doesnt matter, especially not to the masses. But for me personally, when buying something it means supporting something and by not buying something it means to not support. I can get a nice black mini dress with similiar silhouettes from probably 10 designers. but its my choice who of those 10 I want to support by buying it.
So yes Daniel Lee its nice, but I will not buy until I see something of you in it that really excites me.
I always like colours which his use but the runway is kitschy interpretations on light and space movement.
LOL It is very NYFW circa late-80s/early-90s of Christian Francis Roth mediocrity, isn’t it?
The best designs here are nothing more than a luxe-version of Banana Republic/Club Monaco basics bedazzled up. He literally spent it all in his debut. (Good for him for suckering this label into hiring him, I’ll give him that.)