Burberry F/W 2023.24 London

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[yslforever]

I loved that it felt British, I loved the cast, the mood and the music. I really loved one look towards the end: a chiffon dress with ruffles around the neck worn with riding boots. The bags were good..

That chiffon dress (53) and the two dotted ones (34 and 35) are really the only looks I loved too. And the duck one in sateen (24) is fun, just like the pigs/chicken/mice Kane showed yesterday, even though they all are literally coming from JW Anderson.

 

[Frederic01]

Interesting first collection. I was expecting something much more sleek also but then in a way it's good because he isn't just recreating exactly what his aesthetic was at Bottega.

I like that he has established a signature already for the brand - the rose, and that purple-blue colour which I guess will be the Burberry signature colour.

Now I'm interested to see details of the accessories and what the "hits" will be in terms of shoes and bags...

 

[perhydrol]

This collection reminds me of the very last one from Bailey, just with cheaper fabrics, worse fit, and an absolutely horrible color palette. It also doesn't project any sense of humour. On the contrary, it's feels incredibly melancholic and sad. Even those awkward pieces stolen from Anderson didn't really help. While I can see why Lee may be a great appointment for Burrberry (because cutting corners is obvious in this collection), this debut lacks the electric feel of his first show for Bottega Veneta. I'm also not sure about the accessories. On a good note, Lee has obviously moved on from his BV, I'm just not sure if it's the right direction.

 

[WAVES]

I didn’t hate it did find extremely ready to wear if that makes sense so perhaps that was his focus.

there’s a playfulness that’s attractive and most of the patterns and colours are well chosen.
could’ve been a little bit more tailored or at least some options on that regard, the long dresses were beautiful and it was interesting not too see an avalanche of interpretations of the classic Burberry trench.
it was a ‘I wanna see what you do next’ type of debut for me.

 

[Frederic01]

FIONA SINCLAIR SCOTT

 

[Lola701]

Im curious to see his prefall and his resort collection in June. I wasn’t particularly fan of his main collections at Bottega Veneta as the real beauty was in the transitional seasons.

I think this may make more sense next to maybe a more pragmatic offering of his pre-collections…

 

[jeanclaude]

My first reaction was "Is Coach showing in London too??"...I can´t believe he did not notice that what he was making did not look like Burberry at all!

It´s so generic and basic! That hot water bottle must be filled with booze, because otherwise I can´t understand this pathetic debut.

Feels like "Brexit" by Burberry...a total disaster!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

HOLY SH!T

What a disaster!

What was the point of getting rid of Tisci only to come to this?

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I can´t believe he did not notice that what he was making did not look like Burberry at all!

Or that it was all f****** ugly

 

[MetroMelannie]

Why did the illuminati have to pick him. There are others to choose from.

never would have i expected to hear about the illuminatis on tfs

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Strange collection. Feels more discount Kenzo than Burberry. Perplexed by the colours. Kind of pointless when you think about it.

 

[gazebo]

I've just learned a new word! ba·thet·ic.

 

[Phuel]

Strange collection. Feels more discount Kenzo than Burberry. Perplexed by the colours. Kind of pointless when you think about it.

Not strange at all. Very strategic. This is the kind of fashion that makes the shareholders happy. Very commercial juniorwear at the local mall vibe (down to the cast of headcount children). If the runway was painted all-white, it would look like 80s-Benetton produced a runway show.

Very smart business move with the nova check in all those electric colors: They will sell well with the flex-addicts— from tiktokers to outlet mall middle-America. There’s nothing British about this. (…But then again, British kidz these days are so desperate to be Americanized, so he definitely gets the mood of the masses.)

 

[RedSmokeRise]

MMmm.... Kind of starting to wonder if there's no saving burberry at this point.

 

[LadyJunon]

I want to like it, but the way every single f*cking look is large is so repulsive. It's not even a "interesting voluminous couture" type of oversized, it's just large.

 

[XavierRaphael]

why is everything to BIG...

 

[KoV]

bad clothes and worse accessories styled terribly

 

[vetements]

The rose prints, see throughs and garish colours are not my cup of tea, but it does feel British in the sense that it has some punk and rebelliousness elements to it.
I am just somewhat shocked to see this takes a 180 degree away from his BV which I was subconsciously expecting, but perhaps that is a good thing to demonstrate that he is capable of adapting to the brand and not being a one hit wonder, one directional type of designer. Some looks are also very wearable, am sure it will be even watered down when it goes into the stores to sell, like lots of tee shirts, sweats and basic items.
I think for a brand like Burberry, unlike BV, this strategy is perhaps necessary, ie a mass appeal to a much wider audience.

In anticipation of his next shows…