Burberry Resort 2019

[marcBarna]

vogue.com

LONDON,MAY 11, 2018
by NICOLE PHELPS

A few moments ago, Burberry and Riccardo Tisci posted images of the label’s Pre-Spring 2019 collection to their Instagram Stories and Instagram feeds, respectively. “I wanted to celebrate the beauty, heritage, and legacy that I discovered when I first arrived at Burberry,” Tisci wrote in a post. Tisci, who was named chief creative officer of the British heritage brand in March, didn’t design these clothes; the in-house Burberry team did. Rather, he “curated” the pieces and styled them on the men and women paired off in these eight photos. The company is calling the curation B Classic; it’s designed to keep Burberry in the conversation until Tisci’s official runway debut at 5 p.m. on September 17 on the Monday of London Fashion Week, and to “allude to a new aesthetic vision” for the house under the Italian designer.

So what can the his-and-hers trenches, car coats, Harrington jackets, capes, kilts, and dark-rinse denim tell us about Tisci’s aesthetic vision? While the models are fairly androgynous and the styling emphasizes the gender flexibility of the Burberry codes, it’s somewhat surprising to only see images of apparently straight couples. Tisci is a proud champion of trans models like Lea T., and his predecessor Christopher Bailey’s sign-off show in February was a colorful celebration of LGBTQ+ rights. The social media crowd might be expecting more of that.

Clothes- and accessory-wise, meanwhile, these looks are indeed as classic as anything Tisci touches is likely to get. Again, he only styled them, but it could be that he’ll reveal a minimalist streak at Burberry. Miuccia Prada resurrected ’90s-style minimalism on her recent Resort runway; it might start trending. His endorsement of the lady pump does feel significant. Tisci staked an early claim to streetwear’s place in the high fashion pantheon, and his success in that area must be one of the things that attracted Burberry executives to him. But those heels are about as far from streetwear as it gets. The logo, another streetwear staple, was downplayed here, but Tisci gave a nod to a supersize version of the house signature check. Elsewhere, the kilt-jeans combo looked like signature Tisci. In the end, this is a beginning that’s not really a beginning. That comes later. The designer’s big reveal—and you just know it’s going to be big; his Givenchy shows were events—is four months in the future. We’ll be watching.

 

[helmutnotdead]

So sterile, boring and straight. Showing all those hetero couples right after the super proudly gay clothes from last collection is quite weird.

Not so interested to be honest.

 

[Lola701]

Good introduction.
After the mess that was the last collection, it's good to comeback to the classics.
I find this good. I wonder if the September collection will be see-now-buy-now as the previous ones.

About the straight/gay thing, i don't think it's really an issue here. Riccardo doesn't have to prove to anyone at this point that he is an advocate for diversity or for the LGBTQ community. He is not Stefano Gabbana! Can we chill?

 

[maxlinden]

The accessories look very promising. Not shocked to see less plaid.

 

[Benn98]

What does 'curate' (such an overrated word) even mean in this case? Styled??? I like the proportions on the women, but that's it. Also, not enough to keep them relevant until he shows because we can get this from other brands on a regular basis.

 

[Marc10]

Well it wasn't designed by him so there's not much to judge. I do love the presentation. Great styling, casting and gorgeous pictures. I hope he follows this aesthetic, modern and elegant like in his peak collections at Givenchy.

Don't really understand why Nicole even made this straight couple criticism. Obviously it was just a (clever) way to show the womenswear and menswear together. I find it way more problematic a straight woman trying to shame a gay men for not booking a gay couple or slapping a rainbow print on clothes. There's way more effective ways to celebrate LGBT.

 

[Phuel]

Very pretty and tailored. Such a refreshing concept in this day of one-size-fits-all and forced irony of ugly-and-plain-but-ridiculously-expensive trash.

Subtle details like the extra length on the coats to give a sweeping, romantic and dramatic flow; the slits that button on the side of coats and skirts; and the return of a timeless and grown-up silhouette are hopefully the shape of where Riccardo is heading this brand. The men’s suede trench is so tempting…

And a gorgeous presentation that’s romantic and so straightforward practical (coupling menswear and womenswear). Who care what Niole has to say: It's OK to not always force diversity at every turn. Sheesh.

Thanks marc for the pics.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Despite the fact that Riccardo did not design these specific pieces, there really is a lot of promise here knowing that he did give his final stamp on this lookbook.

I like how classic it looks. It's a refreshing look and concept after years of sloppy design from everyone in the industry. The suede trench looks are especially good looking...and I love the bare leg with the classy and timeless stiletto.

I hope Riccardo pursues this direction and feels inspired and comfortable exploring this more grown up, classic and less street aesthetic. If that's where he goes, I'm very open to his Burberry.

If we start seeing kaleidoscope, digitally engineered Burberry plaid, though, I may have to eat my words haha

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It looks very sophisticated and modern. Givenchy was always the perfect mix of young and sophisticated, any age could wear it. I expect that to continue with Burberry. I’m very excited for his debut show, especially the menswear. As a man with a more muscular build I always looked to Givenchy. Not all of us have Hedi Boy bodies!

 

[Nomar]

Would have been great if I hadn't seen those two giant tartan monstrosities but it still looks promising. The images are beautiful though, a very simple idea but executed well.

 

[Norden]

This feels like when nicolas ghesquiere took over Vuitton. Very fresh and classic. Obviously there is no design here. But the styling is very nice. Makes me want to wear it.

 

[Lola701]

I know this would not be a popular opinion but I hope that Riccardo, much like Nicolas, will use Burberry as a way to challenge his aesthetic. Burberry much like Vuitton is very commercial and it will be interesting to see him work for something where commerce comes before creativity while still adding a touch of depth in it.

I see Burberry for him like a transition. At the end, I can really see him doing his own thing or take over another house with a Couture heritage and a much more deep vocabulary ( maybe Versace).


There’s this thing about «*strangers*» vision of a particular culture that i’ve always loved: British or American people’s vision of Parisian chic, American’s vision of Italian’s sexiness, French people's vision of Italian chic....
I can see Riccardo doing something that he hasn’t explored that much at Givenchy: the formality of bourgeois dressing.

I’m really excited!

 

[dodencebt]

When I first went through the lookbook I thought Riccardo designed the clothes and wanted a clean, minimal approach to Burberry for Resort, so I guess that's a good thing. You can tell that there's a change in the aesthetic since Bailey's days, even though these staples were designed by the team - the presentation is very romantic without feeling gimmicky (agreed that the couples are heterosexual because the idea behind it is to show the menswear and womenswear next to each other, not to make a point about sexuality), I like the inclusion of the classic alligator stiletto, the jeans fit well in the narrative and I don't even mind the large-scale plaid. It's really the DNA of Burberry and a lot of people (I know, right) want to wear it for the status, so it's impossible to not to include it no matter who helms the brand.

 

[disco54]

Good introduction.
After the mess that was the last collection, it's good to comeback to the classics.
I find this good. I wonder if the September collection will be see-now-buy-now as the previous ones.

About the straight/gay thing, i don't think it's really an issue here. Riccardo doesn't have to prove to anyone at this point that he is an advocate for diversity or for the LGBTQ community. He is not Stefano Gabbana! Can we chill?

Exactly! Now a days people just go on fishing expeditions to get offended. The common trope is "cultural appropriation", well fashion has always been about cultural appropriation lol.

 

[disco54]

Its decent nothing spectacular but I will reserve judgement till his full show.

 

[jeanclaude]

Department store look. So boring!