Celine S/S 2026 Paris

[Grets]

I don't even think Rider's commercial product will land. Hedi was a master at fragrances, denim, sunglasses (that were both rock n roll and chic) and overall "creating vibes" so that you wanted to buy into the logo shirt or bra. Those Celine sports bras were everywhere during the pandemic with the height of the clean girl aesthetic. Hedi gets criticized for being too commercial, but his products, much also like Phoebe, has a ripple effect on fashion from luxury to the high street. Losing Hedi is not just a loss for Celine but the commercial fashion industry in the many billions.

 

[Lola701]

^^
I guess we will get back to this thread by the end of 2026. Rider’s Celine will be a success.
But I’m sure, people will still find a way to attribute his success to Hedi.

 

[PDFSD]

^^
I guess we will get back to this thread by the end of 2026. Rider’s Celine will be a success.
But I’m sure, people will still find a way to attribute his success to Hedi.

we can not deny Rider is not stepping in a much bigger & more well known brand then when he was there its a comfortable mansion now if he 2x or 3x the sales one can say he is successful like his predecessors on his own vision.(if he takes it to a new place)

honestly i see him only keep the monogram from hedi you can see his nature lies in the phoebe meets ralph lauren direction. of course the beauty and parfum and the best sellers in general till it fades out.

hedi type clients will go mostly else wear because the visual language is another type more design intelectual than rich lifestyle nostalgia. maybe the commercial collections will keep more the Hedi RL vibe more RL less Hedi.

he is not able to do hedi sharp cut his eye and hand is more loose and drapey

i wont be shopping there for me the house is not credible anymore as its codes are al mixed up now and thats fine but not for me.

as margiela sold his brand i got rid of all of my margiela because i knew it would not be the same thing same with this the few celine things i started to buy i will sell them as well. i dont buy into this rider project feels disjointed and not authentic

 

[tricotineacetat]

^^
I guess we will get back to this thread by the end of 2026. Rider’s Celine will be a success.
But I’m sure, people will still find a way to attribute his success to Hedi.

I don‘t need to be a long-term customer of Hedi Slimane products to find the underlying cynism in your last sentence to be baffling, to say the least.

We have seen how things panned out at Dior and Saint Laurent to get a pretty good idea that Celine will most certainly continue to use the aesthetic frame work of Hedi (art direction, stores, packaging), the cosmetics and perfume, as well as the permanent collection in tandem with Rider‘s new direction - if anything at all, this is very much 'in the service of the brand', as the role of Rider right now is not signaling a sudden break with all that was established under Hedi.

The very fact that Celine is now enjoying mainstream success and recognition beyond that of fashion insiders is thanks to the aggressive expansion course Hedi was tasked with by the Arnauds; menswear, perfume, cosmetics, a couture/red carpet line for VIPs - None of these things existed during Phoebe Philos years. A lot of the super-banal merch and preppy clothing Hedi obviously accepted to produce is what will continue to be the backbone of Celine's sales.

But based entirely on the matter of high fashion clothing, I will say with almost religious conviction that Hedi‘s tailoring bases are most certainly the best in the industry (I had the pleasure to learn from one of Hedi's earliest mentors) while the weird oversized tailoring shapes of Rider we saw on the runway lacked refinement. Good luck trying to sell that, especially for men!

 

[Lola701]

I don‘t need to be a long-term customer of Hedi Slimane products to find the underlying cynism in your last sentence to be baffling, to say the least.

It was pure cynism, totally « gratuit » in an almost petty sense of the word because discussions around Hedi’s work sometimes turns into a sort of ridiculous battle.

The structure of the brand now is perfect for Celine to succeed. Much like I’m sure Hedi took Celine because it was already a successful house which meant that investments would have been made faster for his vision to be installed.

But I always try to think about fashion houses in long term. Rider is only perpetuating the history written by his 2 predecessors.

we can not deny Rider is not stepping in a much bigger & more well known brand then when he was there its a comfortable mansion now if he 2x or 3x the sales one can say he is successful like his predecessors on his own vision.(if he takes it to a new place)

honestly i see him only keep the monogram from hedi you can see his nature lies in the phoebe meets ralph lauren direction. of course the beauty and parfum and the best sellers in general till it fades out.

hedi type clients will go mostly else wear because the visual language is another type more design intelectual than rich lifestyle nostalgia. maybe the commercial collections will keep more the Hedi RL vibe more RL less Hedi.

he is not able to do hedi sharp cut his eye and hand is more loose and drapey

i wont be shopping there for me the house is not credible anymore as its codes are al mixed up now and thats fine but not for me.

as margiela sold his brand i got rid of all of my margiela because i knew it would not be the same thing same with this the few celine things i started to buy i will sell them as well. i dont buy into this rider project feels disjointed and not authentic

I think you have a much more balanced take than the obvious « No Hedi = flop ».
It’s not like being at the helm of a 1 billion brand is something new for Rider anyway but he is part of the construction of the brand now.

Personally, I see the vision. It’s just different from Hedi. And I also respect the fact that a Hedi shopper/fan moves on.

I mean, we women are so much more used to it. I moved on from Balenciaga. I moved on from Fendi (now that I’m planning to go back I’ll probably have to move on again), I moved on from Givenchy, from Chanel, from Celine too. The Hedi times were fairly good but except for a menswear look, it wasn’t for me.

Surprisingly i stayed for Margiela. I didn’t connect with the runway shows, the vision of John but in stores, it was good.

The same way that looking at Dries now, I’m sure a lot of men will move on. But we don’t see elsewhere that kind of eratic « main-mise de la figure tutélaire du directeur artistique » (didn’t know how to translate this) as we see with Celine in particular, and with anything Hedi period.

 

[HigthaVandah]

thats fine as margiela sold his brand i got rid of all of my margiela because i knew it would not be the same thing same with this the few celine things i started to buy i will sell them as well. i dont buy into this rider project feels disjointed and not authentic

Why sell now, if you don't mind my asking? Why not keep and enjoy and be glad you were at the right place at the right time to buy Margiela's Margiela or Hedi's Celine?

Or am I misunderstanding and you're not referring to your personal collection?

 

[PDFSD]

It was pure cynism, totally « gratuit » in an almost petty sense of the word because discussions around Hedi’s work sometimes turns into a sort of ridiculous battle.

The structure of the brand now is perfect for Celine to succeed. Much like I’m sure Hedi took Celine because it was already a successful house which meant that investments would have been made faster for his vision to be installed.

But I always try to think about fashion houses in long term. Rider is only perpetuating the history written by his 2 predecessors.

I think you have a much more balanced take than the obvious « No Hedi = flop ».
It’s not like being at the helm of a 1 billion brand is something new for Rider anyway but he is part of the construction of the brand now.

Personally, I see the vision. It’s just different from Hedi. And I also respect the fact that a Hedi shopper/fan moves on.

I mean, we women are so much more used to it. I moved on from Balenciaga. I moved on from Fendi (now that I’m planning to go back I’ll probably have to move on again), I moved on from Givenchy, from Chanel, from Celine too. The Hedi times were fairly good but except for a menswear look, it wasn’t for me.

Surprisingly i stayed for Margiela. I didn’t connect with the runway shows, the vision of John but in stores, it was good.

The same way that looking at Dries now, I’m sure a lot of men will move on. But we don’t see elsewhere that kind of erratic « main-mise de la figure tutélaire du directeur artistique » (didn’t know how to translate this) as we see with Celine in particular, and with anything Hedi period.

Lola your stringing all these emotions in me lol


I think you have a much more balanced take than the obvious « No Hedi = flop ».
If Vaccarello can have success post hedi why not rider even though i think rider is more of a designer than Vaccarello , it might be a hurdle because with great image direction and basic product you can make a a brand seem compelling and strong like Vaccarello did even if it borrowed mash up of Helmut Newton meets hedi.

Working as number 2 at a billion euro company is not the same as being in charge of it this i disagree because i know nr2´s at billion euro companies and they cant run sh*t with out a creative director to follow or react to.

We all now examples of nr 2 now not making brands grow this is not gareartue of knowing what to do even Alessandro at valentino does not know how to redirect Valentino after his one hit wonder time at gucci ....therefore as i always argue /discuss her about that there is a layer of things to make a paring work between Cd and brand vision or no vision (the luck part i dont get into it because that's another pandora box i don't have in depth knowledge or brian space on to even analyze )

I Don't need Rider to follow Hedi vision because only hedi does his vision so far right , just as i don't need to see another phoebe copy vision because we have phoebe alive and well.

I wish Rider to make a solid vision for Celine for it to have credibility as a house even if it had various versions of it before, his approach is too scholastic of his resume, i like CD´s to stand for something he had enough time to dream about his ideals for even before he got this job as a living person with own personal style etc.

i just don't buy or respect this pastiche of previous bosses styles as ode for an direction when your not improving on it or twisting it in a new way that one can say its yours.

the promo leading up to the show was weak and non related to the rest , the bikes outside at the show full of branding was a weak attempt to do something social and branding we come to see form hedi vids with boats and bikes and cars branded celine that felt way more deliberate and part of the story etc

i think also if the scary Hedi fans come out let them its ok as well , i am greatly against middle off the road on the fence positions or takes or as this case collections.

Hedi made trashy things in all his brands he is not perfect to me, but all the rest of his obsessions and point of view made up for it as an complete creative director.

I know we live in an a world where details manner less and less , and even quality of idea and vision are more and more unclear and being more and more one thing of nothing.

I don't want to to be part of that. and for this i understand a big hedi fan being dramatic about it etc some people like to be purist we have them in watches, cars and music and tech etc as well its normal.

I think its good to have hardcore fans be fully passionate (on a given subject without having to resort to disrespect etc ), its become a crime to speak up or not be going with the flow etc
i dont think its good as a society we are not happier nor more creative for it nor smarter.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It was pure cynism, totally « gratuit » in an almost petty sense of the word because discussions around Hedi’s work sometimes turns into a sort of ridiculous battle.

The structure of the brand now is perfect for Celine to succeed. Much like I’m sure Hedi took Celine because it was already a successful house which meant that investments would have been made faster for his vision to be installed.

But I always try to think about fashion houses in long term. Rider is only perpetuating the history written by his 2 predecessors.

I think you have a much more balanced take than the obvious « No Hedi = flop ».
It’s not like being at the helm of a 1 billion brand is something new for Rider anyway but he is part of the construction of the brand now.

Personally, I see the vision. It’s just different from Hedi. And I also respect the fact that a Hedi shopper/fan moves on.

I mean, we women are so much more used to it. I moved on from Balenciaga. I moved on from Fendi (now that I’m planning to go back I’ll probably have to move on again), I moved on from Givenchy, from Chanel, from Celine too. The Hedi times were fairly good but except for a menswear look, it wasn’t for me.

Surprisingly i stayed for Margiela. I didn’t connect with the runway shows, the vision of John but in stores, it was good.

The same way that looking at Dries now, I’m sure a lot of men will move on. But we don’t see elsewhere that kind of eratic « main-mise de la figure tutélaire du directeur artistique » (didn’t know how to translate this) as we see with Celine in particular, and with anything Hedi period.

Well, I‘m not volft, I hope you realise that I can have a nuanced opinion and give credit where it‘s due

That being said, I think it‘s worth taking another look at where Celine came from, as a brand that wasn‘t really exciting during either Kors', Menichetti's or Omazic's tenure - While it was perhaps not as troublesome as Loewe (Although it had a few nice collections with both Narciso Rodriguez and José Enrique Oña Selfa), Phoebe provided the right kick start to put Celine back on the map, to a niche 'fashion insider' audience.

The success of Phoebe gave Bernard Arnaud the encouragement to think big with Celine - Lemaire supposedly declined and we can probably assumed he would not have been the right person to fuel an ambitioned expansion as Hedi undertook.

While Celine was from a design perspective my probably least favorite brand under which Hedi had worked, I would say he very much put himself at the service of the brand, establishing Celine as one of the big global luxury brands and even ending his tenure in such a way that the house could seamlessly pick up on with Michael Rider.

 

[PDFSD]

Why sell now, if you don't mind my asking? Why not keep and enjoy and be glad you were at the right place at the right time to buy Margiela's Margiela or Hedi's Celine?

Or am I misunderstanding and you're not referring to your personal collection?

yes i meant my own clothes i sold

the visions of the moments at Celine or Margiela i liked or resonated with are not there anymore.
i feel the value as in concept is gone that i associated with the label, the untouchable part the spirit or soul is gone so the relics belonging to it i rather not have or see in my closet.

sometimes i regret and i wish i still had that jacket or travel bag but its few times.

if margiela would come back i would buy again,but i don't want the version from galliano nor glen or while its run by a creative director not instilling something i believe in.

i rather see for some brands, creative directors stay more true to the concept of the brand ...like porsche or patek you go there 50 years later its still porsche or patek even with new models the story is intact even if improved.

margiela´s concept like phoebe´s has been influential since they left and came back so clearly the archives and concept are strong and valid for our times.

not every brand need a ego overhaul.

 

[Plax]

For me, this looks like exactly what LVMH expected from him when they hired him. It would have been way better if it was more refined / edited in every details.

 

[Grets]

Hedi commentary aside. So much of this was also so Phoebe Philo. While she was there when he was, I can't keep track of all her children watering down her style.

 

[dieinmytabis]

for one second it was a sailor, and then the next, it was someone who shops at h&m. the art direction is confusing and quite distasteful, the collection is extemely uncohesive and i can't predict what the next look is (in the worst way possible). timing is awful. god save celine.

 

[PDFSD]

anything remotely phoebe celine is deemed as acceptable or modern right out the gate, while she is back already a year i don't care you were by her side wiping her *ss , do your own thing honor her when she passed away ors something ....replicating her style endlessly is just trying to show a man can do it better at this point.

 

[Creative]

The only thing I remember of Milan is the amount of "classy" nudes and feet/bulge/nipples pics he used to post...

Some of these people just need to be bitter in silence.

Why though?

In this woke era we are living in, being open about what you think is so… persecuted, poorly seen, vilified.

Okay, he might not be a genius, but I think it’s great that he’s open about his thoughts in fashion and I honestly enjoy someone speaking his real mind instead of licking as*es like Ideservecouture or the d!ckhead stylenotcom just to be invited and receive free things. Or even Suzy saying the new Margiela is great

Gimme a rest. We live in The Emperor New Clothes and everyone is acting like the emperor is actually wearing something.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^Happy for you if you enjoy his opinion then.

 

[Creative]

^Happy for you if you enjoy his opinion then.

It’s not a matter of enjoying it or not, I actually don’t care about him, but I find it kinda weird to mock his opinion or try to “censor” him (maybe not the right word) just because it’s negative?

MB uploaded pictures of the Balenciaga eyesore like it was something cool and nobody commented.

I don’t know. I just don’t get why people can’t be open when they don’t like something. This political correctness is so woke and I can’t with it.

And I dont mean it in a bad way for you, I love reading your opinions, just saying it in general cause suddenly everyone thinks it’s not… appropriate. Idk.

 

[PDFSD]

It’s not a matter of enjoying it or not, I actually don’t care about him, but I find it kinda weird to mock his opinion or try to “censor” him (maybe not the right word) just because it’s negative?

MB uploaded pictures of the Balenciaga eyesore like it was something cool and nobody commented.

I don’t know. I just don’t get why people can’t be open when they don’t like something. This political correctness is so woke and I can’t with it.

And I dont mean it in a bad way for you, I love reading your opinions, just saying it in general cause suddenly everyone thinks it’s not… appropriate. Idk.

MB who Blazy ? ( MB uploaded pictures of the Balenciaga eyesore like it was something cool and nobody commented.)

 

[GivenchyAddict]

It’s not a matter of enjoying it or not, I actually don’t care about him, but I find it kinda weird to mock his opinion or try to “censor” him (maybe not the right word) just because it’s negative?

MB uploaded pictures of the Balenciaga eyesore like it was something cool and nobody commented.

I don’t know. I just don’t get why people can’t be open when they don’t like something. This political correctness is so woke and I can’t with it.

And I dont mean it in a bad way for you, I love reading your opinions, just saying it in general cause suddenly everyone thinks it’s not… appropriate. Idk.

I understand what your point is but seems like you missed mine.

Given what he did in a past from the same position as Rider and seeing what he is now, his opinion seems only fueled by bitterness.

For me his opinion would matter if he did something very substantial both at Jil, Trussardi and Ports but no three fails.

I don’t mind negative opinions and rather tend to look at them more than the positives ones.

However, when voicing a public (negative) opinion like he did, it needs some legitimacy to back it up.

it just bugs me to see his post about Rider/Celine and then 90% of his are half naked white men + his buttcheeks/nipples/bulges/feet. 😂

 

[HigthaVandah]

i feel the value as in concept is gone that i associated with the label, the untouchable part the spirit or soul is gone so the relics belonging to it i rather not have or see in my closet

Huh. Fair enough. Your approach sounds very different from mine. Overall artistic direction, runway styling, etc. help get me into the store, but those associations fade quickly once I own something. After a few wears, the only concept left is "Higtha liked this enough to buy it."

The exception is when I'm actively thinking about fashion history/houses. Then I think it's neat to have a piece of something that's no longer available from the house but lives on (for lack of less dramatic term) via people who bought it in the moment. For me, the "moment" a brand sells me isn't just the time it's in stores, but the full useful lifespan of the products and the way they break in and wear. How something looks and feels after extensive wear and maintenance is part of its design, whether or not the team actually put much thought into how that item would crease/fade/stretch/etc. If I sell something, I'm selling the rest of the "moment" to the next owner.

 

[Lorenzogi]

I understand what your point is but seems like you missed mine.

Given what he did in a past from the same position as Rider and seeing what he is now, his opinion seems only fueled by bitterness.

For me his opinion would matter if he did something very substantial both at Jil, Trussardi and Ports but no three fails.

I don’t mind negative opinions and rather tend to look at them more than the positives ones.

However, when voicing a public (negative) opinion like he did, it needs some legitimacy to back it up.

it just bugs me to see his post about Rider/Celine and then 90% of his are half naked white men + his buttcheeks/nipples/bulges/feet. 😂

What‘s so bad about Vukmirovic‘s work at Jil Sander? Sander S/S 2003 still looks cool and relevant to me. and sexy.
Meiers is the worst thing that has happened to Jil Sander, in my opinion.