Central Saint Martins F/W 10.11 London

[maxlinden]

^ her work was very interesting

 

[freebitchbaby]

**** me thats good

 

[MUXU]

For me I expected something more than this....But I love a few of them and how they develope a single idea into a whole collection....but this is not the best CSM show and not an interesting show for me. I'm sure they have talents, but just not my type.
For my opinion, RCA, Antwerp, La Cambre could have done better.

same here. i did expect more from csm MA too

whole lot it is not wearable or interesting and looks more like a bachelor show than a masters. im rather disappointed with louise wilson's direction this year. maybe all the hype around her these years got to her head? cause the MA shows pre-2007 were much better.

i only like the designer who opened the show and angeline lam, it's understated which is rare now it seems

 

[gius]

I understand the reaction, it's very stripped down.. I admit it leaves me wanting more at the end (but that is a good thing) and a whole lot is hard to wear I agree -funny I didn't pay attention to this part.. But I just find most of it very directional --the concepts are so effective that if (hopefully) these get put into production and the designs injected into more wearable garments, just as is with a lot of major designers, you could still be able to read the designer in the clothes.. that that is how strong their messages are this season

It wouldn't be like taking one of the dresses here and modifying it to make it more wearable --rather it's taking the idea, and putting it in a t-shirt, a coat, dress... I think that's what this season is about.

 

[gius]

review by DazedDigital.com

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA 2010
There were plenty of rigorously honed-in visions from the 22 students who showed last night.
..|...Published 22 February 2010

We're not sure whether it's the shift in mood in general within fashion where an appreciation for the minimal is resurging or whether Louise Wilson is more hell-bent on getting a singular and clear vision based on form and shape out of her MA students. We just know that frilly theatrics and graduate collections with a colourful song and dance weren't in order last night and instead, by and large, most students honed in on concrete ideas that tried to alter perceptions of form be it through alternative ways of pattern cutting, innovating knitwear or shape building with unusual materials.

The Harrods award were given to two joint winners, the first to Jackie JS Lee whose collection was a full of sleek tailoring with hidden clean-cut twists such as lapels melding into coats. "I have a good knowledge of tailoring as I was a pattern cutter for eight years. It's kind of difficult for women to wear tailoring as it's normally quite uncomfortable so I made it in jersey and tried to make it chic, elegant and feminine all at the same time." The second went to Lilly Heine who build up layers of fabrics to create illusions of diamond shapes that moved with the body. "I just started looking at Picasso sculptures and diamonds and how they're cut. So I started layering up fabric in 3-D shapes so the garments became like soft moving sculptures."

Other notable collections included Matthew Harding's pleated ensembles that were controlled with concealed bangles as well as controlled furry textures inspired by the late 70s. "I've always been interested in sculpture. The collection was inspired by Linda Carter's Wonder Woman so there were these late 70s shapes. I stumbled upon this idea of these bangles with the corrugation inside which controlled the gathers. It's trying to balance structure with femininity because so often you get structure that looks like it's made out of cardboard."

Boxed up shapes were built into the front and back silhouettes in Thomas Tait's collection which also played off with longer flowing lengths. "I sort of always scribble down my silhouettes with these exaggerated shoulders and hips. I realised that if they were clearer shapes, like boxes, you can create these two shifting boxes, one in the front and one in the back at the top, so sort of like this fragmented silhouette."

Tse Goh played with the idea of a white t-shirt and distilled these shapes into white neoprene. "It was just playing with a shirt on a stand until the shape evolves itself and thinking about how the t-shirt could stand up on its own."

Menswear designer Malte Flagstad concentrated on sleek masculine shapes using sheer fabrics and a painted wool that reflected the surfaces he looked at. "The starting point was one image by Ingar Krauss, of this ballerina girl who had this masculinity to her. Then I looked at sculptures with surface textures like paint peeling off and dust settling and that's how it kicked off. I just like the idea of everything being quite uniform with a few subtle detailing."

Flashes of colour came courtesy of Amy Stephenson who integrated colourful glass pieces with muted fabrics to create loose silhouettes that knotted and draped according the glass placement. "All the pieces are moulded to the body parts and put in odd places so that they stick out. It was about 70s funk and flash, and we were going for a Mad Max sort of look and everything looks a little hippyish and handmade."

Knitwear graduate Shao-Yen Chen used nylon threads to cut into dresses that were shaped and moulded meticulously creating volume and reduction where needed. "I looked at traditional knitwear and twisted it with plastic mixed with lycra, cashmere, contrasting luxurious yarns with crap yarns. I was looking at landscapes and in particular, waves in the ocean and looking at the layers of the waves lapping on top of each other."

 

[rip_ian curtis]

I think the problem with CSM these days is that they try to balance between the theatrics, something that's associated with the school, and commercial stuff, so it kinda ends up being lame on both aspects. They should make it either honestly commercial and focus on material and cut, or then just concentrate on more conceptual design. This collection gives a slight second rate art-school-fashion-project vibe...

 

[a.t.]

Thanks SOOOOO much gius.

 

[KhaoticKharma]

I think the problem with CSM these days is that they try to balance between the theatrics, something that's associated with the school, and commercial stuff, so it kinda ends up being lame on both aspects. They should make it either honestly commercial and focus on material and cut, or then just concentrate on more conceptual design. This collection gives a slight second rate art-school-fashion-project vibe...

Couldn't have said it better myself.

I kind of like the all white menswear collection, and the tribal collection with the draping (Amy Stephinsen) was pretty nice, too.

 

[bbofbalenciaga]

This is the biggest amount of horrendous desings i´ve ever seen.

 

[Donatello89]

ooooooooooooooooooooooh my goooood !!! last men's clothes (white) are aaaaaabsolutely stuning !!!!!!!!!!! and the rest is good too !!!

 

[waxy]

Awesome.

 

[Creative]

It's funny (to say something) to hear the selection is really hard after seeing this. Omg.

 

[MUXU]

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA 2010
There were plenty of rigorously honed-in visions from the 22 students who showed last night.
..|...Published 22 February 2010

actually, after reading the article, i do like the show more than before. i see where the designers are coming from, but still, wish it had more in it.
i do quite like JS lee's collection. i think the individual pieces would work very well in an existing wardrobe. the subtle details is very jil sander in a good way. im glad he won the award, he can be a great asset at that house

 

[neonpeg]

Article on Rok Hwang from Dazed & Confused Volume 11.87 July 2010 page 26, written by William Oliver:

The London based designer Rok Hwang's points of reference are seriously eclectic. He first got excited about clothes after seeing the epitome of simplistic sportswear cool that is the Nike Air Force One: he notes 90s Pierre Cardin and 60s Yves Saint Laurent as his designs of choice; and he gives Tilda Swinton a nod as The One that he has always wanted to dress.

Since graduating from Central Saint Martins with an MA in fashion just last year, Hwag has been receiving some deservedly high-profile attention. His first womenswear collection - sown as thefinale to the prestigious CSM catwalk show and presented on schedule as part of London Fashion Week - was lauded with praise from the likes of Vogue Italia, Vogue Girl and Harper's Bazaar. But Hwang is not just a press darling; he has also been credited with numberous awards, such as the Chloe Award in 2009 and more recently, the 2010 L'Oreal Professional prize.

Although he approaches both men's and womenswear with a similar aesthetic, something he describes as "reacting slightly against the eye, in a way that is not easily understood", Hwang also has an awareness of the differences in creating clothes for men and women. "My approach to menswear is slightly more careful and it's about being myself," explains the designer. "I think about attitude, music and how the fabric feels on skin... I become really conscious of the fine borderline in men's design. For womenswear, I tend to think more of aesthetics, image, freshness, originality and timing."

Originality and timing are definitely two points Hwang was in tune with when he sent his girls down the runway earlier this year. His star-shape themed, draped fabric dresses were accompanied by bold shoulders, complementing yet contrasting tones, and unique geometric cut-outs that gave his classicism a distinct contemporary edge. No doubt it is this combination of elements that has resulted in numerous award judges recognising his huge potential. With a sincere love of fashion - "my only hope is to be working hard in the industry, all day and all night" - and a formidable understanding of how to design distinctly beautiful and elegant clothes, it is only too easy to understand why Rok Hwang is one to keep your eye on.


I thought he was definitely the best this year & what he had to say in this article about designing womenswear & menswear was pretty interesting

Thoughts?

 

[Squizree]

I dunno....while they are just students/graduates/whatever you'd still expect a bit more creative spark from new and "fresh talent". I do love a lot of things here though. Namely Tse Goh whose mathematical designs are really quite impressive, but even they seem to be somewhat too artificial. I think I'm just being paranoid, I do love that batch. And also Charles Youssef! The geometry is beautiful.

 

[CrisGalaxy]

Oh man, those menswear designers are sooooo good!

 

[VersaceLuva586]

Not really feeling any of the students work........i think it's just not to my taste!

 

[1127]

Those blue things are....@.@

 

[forgetaboutit]

rip-offs collections

 

[SGaspar]

as usual: nothing new, nothing special and nothing weareable. Talents as mcqueen or galliano only happen every now and then. the rest is rubbish