Chemena Kamali - Designer, Creative Director of Chloé

[lookatme]

See - to me, the Zara looks posted here perfectly capture my problem with her Chloe. What distinguishes her Chloe from theirs?

I get it, it's tough - midmarket, fast fashion back in the day did not copy runway fashion in the same way they do now. Brands like Zara and H&M used to be cheap basics, not budget designer clothes. But, that's all the more reason why luxury and fashion designers have a responsibility to push themselves and their ateliers to make their clothes worth the price tag and investment.

Why would I shop at Chloe if I can get the exact same look at Zara?

It's a bigger existential question for the whole industry to be asking itself, but it's one they need to start thinking seriously about. Zara basically does the same work - faster, cheaper and better. Aside from the per yardage cost of the materials, there is often very little now that distinguishes a $4000 dress from a $40 one. What do you, as a true fashion designer, offer? What are you bringing to the table of value?

 

[lookatme]

In fact - its interesting....

20 years ago, designer fashion was DEMI COUTURE, while fast fashion was cheap, little poly overlocked items. The value distance between the two markets was HUGE. Now, somehow they're all meeting in the middle. Fast fashion has greatly improved in quality and relevance and designer fashion has deeply devalued itself in design and make.

And they wonder why they're all in crisis. You can't expect the label alone to justify your prices...which is exactly what they're doing.

 

[tourbillions]

hope the feeling of the clothes and construction up close are way better than zaras. theyll have to differentiate themselves to entice new customers to come in at the first place. need to up the oppulence maybe and lessen the boho a bit while keeping it fresh.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

I don't see anything special about the clothes she's making. Natascha will always be, for me, a missed opportunity for the brand. However, I do like how she's building a feeling and an image, even though the Chloé girl style is somewhat dated, in my opinion. That’s something Zara cannot do: create a singular and creative narrative of a lifestyle.

 

[LadyJunon]

I don't see anything special about the clothes she's making. Natascha will always be, for me, a missed opportunity for the brand. However, I do like how she's building a feeling and an image, even though the Chloé girl style is somewhat dated, in my opinion. That’s something Zara cannot do: create a singular and creative narrative of a lifestyle.

I miss Natacha's Chloe. She produced the most interesting collections the brand has seen in years.

 

[jeanclaude]

zara.com

Zara is clearly embracing Chemena's style.
Does anyone know if the collections perform well among retailers, Chloé boutiques and corners ?

I swear I thought this was a new ad campaign from Chloé...until I reach the Zara.com part!

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

 

[Drusilla_]

It does 100%. I know people working at Zara and yeah. Mango literally copied the collection, ASOS, H&M windows… it’s crazy.

yeah for an allegedly 'generic' boho look they managed to gank the exact colour palette of Chemena's Chloé along with the overall look of her pieces.

And the high street chains- Zara, Mango etc - copy the luxury brands, they've been doing it forever but they are very easily distinguished from the real deal when dealing in pieces made of silks, wools etc - pretty photography can't make the difference between silk and cheap thin polyester go away.

Fast fashion has greatly improved in quality and relevance

I'm sorry, is this some Temu representative's wishful thinking? I own pieces from 'fast fashion' chains like Topshop, Zara and Mango bought in the 00s and early 2010s and the quality and durability of those 00s-2010s pieces - even after considerable wear - is far, far better than anything those brands currently produce by a huge margin, even when the design is the same.

You could have made this argument in 2007 and it would have been valid because the better Topshop, H&M, Zara designs could compete with some designer diffusion lines' pieces in terms of quality and design but in 2024 it's laughable.

 

[tourbillions]

You could have made this argument in 2007

honestly the argument is still valid since the quality of designer items has gone down as well since that time. But ofcourse no one can say that fast fashion quality has improved. Only thing they improved are their campaigns but quality definitely is worst.

 

[Drusilla_]

^you literally did say (and I quoted) that fast fashion had improved in quality since 'back in the day', which has absolutely no basis in fact and is a ludicrous statement.

Your argument now seems to rest on the idea that Steven Meisel shooting Zara campaigns somehow means that Zara's products are now indistinguishable from Chloé's, and from Chemena's Chloé in particular.

This is not the case, though they may look the same in the perfectly lit and edited campaign or a filtered image posted by an influencer. But clothes are not meant to be only seen, but worn and I can guarantee you the difference will be apparent the second any potential wearer lays a hand on the Zara pieces vs Chemena's ones.

(and as for the 'quality of designer items has gone down as well' - yes it has, but the quality of items on the high street has tanked even worse and the idea that they're 'basically the same' in 2021 is laughable. Maybe for a pair of logo socks or a t shirt or a pair of jeans even, but an elaborately ruffled silk blouse?)

 

[tourbillions]

i think youre confusing me for someone else???? you're coming in strong for things i never said.

were on the same side only i think that both fast fashion and designer brands have gone down in quality so its not so far off to say thats even these days, some fast fashion quality can match designer brands. Never said that some lace work made by lesage is as just as good as zara's.

And where are you getting these about the campaigns??? i literally just said that their campaigns have improved and not their clothes. Never compared their campaigns to the quality of their clothes.

You need to improve your reading comprehension.

 

[Drusilla_]

^my apologies, I confused you with the comment at the top of the page which I did quote and was insisting Chemena's stuff was no different from Zara.

I still think the claim that some fast fashion is on par with luxury fashion quality wise is false, unless you're confining that 'some' to mean things like canvas sneakers, jelly sandals, t shirts, underwear and socks - not the kind of elaborate lace, leather and acres of long sheer ruffled silk on display in this collection. Of course the quality in both has gone down the drain in tangible ways, but the overall decline is less precipitous in high-end fashion than in fast fashion brands which are now producing things that look like rags within a single wear or in-store when they're still on the rails.

 

[jeanclaude]

Boho meets Leia princess??

static.independent.co.uk/

 

[reese06]

Presedential candidate Kamala Harris wearing custom Chloe suit.

I think she needs a strong ”muse” and maybe 1 to 2 very strong ambassadors who are going to really embody the brand to the public. A lot of the new creative directors are missing that. Maximilian, Sabato… Hawkings was missing it. They need someone that you will associate with the brand, but not a cheap celeb or model grab, it needs to be authentic. When I say authentic I mean like a Jennifer Connelly and Nicholas type partnership, Tom ford and Jon Kortajarena wtc.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Presedential candidate Kamala Harris wearing custom Chloe suit.

This is their second time dressing her I believe
From an international non-American perspective, what a bold move to be honest and to be associated with someone so controversial and divisive
It is also very odd considering Chloe is a French brand, Chemena isn't American and Richemont is from Switzerland
Where are American designers Michael Kors, Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, or Donna Karen?

 

[Lola701]

Kamala looks good!
That’s a great flattering suit. I bet she will have to wear Ralph Lauren and American designers a lot.
She would look good in MK and Tom Ford.

It’s so interesting to see what is happening at Chloe. In one show, a momentum was created. They had 2 viral moments with Chemena taking her bow and the front row wearing the same shoes, the collection was well received. The pricing is good for the most part. Rapidly, press coverage, Beyonce wearing it, now Kamala. The suits were reactive and the pre-collection arrived quickly in stores…
This is just out of one collection. Now Chloe will be one of the most anticipated show for S/S2025.

And at the same time, you have the people from Ancora, still trying to make the moment happen. Exhausting Marketing, documentary about the CD and everything.

What is happening at Chloe is the proof that it still can happen. Sometimes, just doing a good collection is enough.

 

[plentyofhorns]

Presedential candidate Kamala Harris wearing custom Chloe suit.

I think she needs a strong ”muse” and maybe 1 to 2 very strong ambassadors who are going to really embody the brand to the public. A lot of the new creative directors are missing that. Maximilian, Sabato… Hawkings was missing it. They need someone that you will associate with the brand, but not a cheap celeb or model grab, it needs to be authentic. When I say authentic I mean like a Jennifer Connelly and Nicholas type partnership, Tom ford and Jon Kortajarena wtc.

She looked so beautiful last night. I love haaaaaaaa

 

[george5]

I think this project is a lot harder because Chloé’s boho-chic is just a part of Hedi’s Celine now. Some people here suggested adding strong tailored items but he already does that too in a stronger and more convincing way that I doubt Chemena could. Very tricky position to be in but considering the brand long history and legacy I hope this time they can offer something that provides long time success.

 

[jeanclaude]

Kamali dresses Kamala...Khloé!!

 

[lookatme]

I think this project is a lot harder because Chloé’s boho-chic is just a part of Hedi’s Celine now. Some people here suggested adding strong tailored items but he already does that too in a stronger and more convincing way that I doubt Chemena could. Very tricky position to be in but considering the brand long history and legacy I hope this time they can offer something that provides long time success.

I personally think she could have mined the 1980's Chloe - the infanta lace ruffles, the funny diamante appliques, skirt suits...

That particular era of Chloe seems untapped over the last several creative directors at the house, and I think it has potential to be appealing for today if freshened up.