Christian Dior S/S 10 Paris

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telegraph.co.uk

The theme was ‘film noir’. The models were made-up and coiffed like Lauren Bacall. And the designer, John Galliano, took his bow in a trench-coat and Homberg, a la Bogart, accessorised with a pair of black-and-white spotted pyjama pants.
But the message at Christian Dior this afternoon was very definitely taken straight from the underwear drawer.
Sheer, 1940’s-style dresses, see-through negligee-gowns and flimsy party-frocks were all a window onto a woman’s most intimate possessions – her bra and knickers.
Backstage, Galliano revealed the undercover secret: all the underwear was actually built-in, making getting dressed a one-step operation for those willing to pay for such an expensive close-up.
Galliano said he had originally been inspired by archive photographs of Bacall and Bogart, in the front row at Christian Dior shows.
“She was a regular client of M. Dior and I loved the idea of taking that 1940s Hollywood glamour and making it more contemporary. And I liked the idea of the link between film as an illusion and the illusion of undressed dresses.”
The front-row line-up included the Hollywood actor, Bruce Willis, and his new wife, Emma Heming, who was wearing a black-and-white, tailored Dior suit; the singer Rihanna; and the burlesque star, Dita Von Teese.
“I’d like to see Emma in some of those dresses,” Willis said, after the show.
The show was staged against a ‘film noir’ backdrop of a derelict warehouse, suffused with shadowy light and dry ice. There was the sound of heavy breathing, a telephone ringing, a hoarse cry, a gun-shot and then screams. Murder on the dance floor? No, drama on the Dior catwalk. The models appeared, first, as enlarged shadows on a backlit screen.
In keeping with the Bacall-Bogart theme, the trench-coat was a key piece, worn with jeweled-lace petticoats or satin French knickers.
The 1940s mode embraced vintage-look short dresses, in floral chiffon with ruffled skirts, or in metallic Lurex, pointelle knits, seamed to enhance the bust and featuring built-in bras, knickers or petticoats.
Necklines tied with bows, short, puffed sleeves and high, platform wedge-shoes echoed the retro vibe.
The exposure factor was particularly effective when black lace came over jewel-bright purple or fuschia satin.
Corsetry was key for evening – a theme Galliano introduced earlier this year in his autumn/winter, haute couture show for Dior.
A flesh-tone and black lace corset, came with a black lace, ruffled skirt, sheer enough to show the lace-top hold-up stockings beneath. A sunray-pleated gown, as dazzlingly orange as a volcano, featured a crystal-and-sequin corset. Even a more prim, collared and bowed, long, dinner dress, was in diaphanous red chiffon, disclosing the black bra and knickers beneath.
 
I like the mini-trench. Otherwise it's always the same peplemed jacket and flyaway tulle/chiffon dresses.
 
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catwalking.com (Please don't hotlink. Thank you! ^_^)
 
Well, it's not that tragic. Need to see more.
 
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catwalking.com (Please don't hotlink. Thank you! ^_^)
 
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catwalking.com (Please don't hotlink. Thank you! ^_^)
 
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catwalking.com (Please don't hotlink. Thank you! ^_^)
 
some of it looks very good but most of it it's very boring. and do - not - want - ever those SOCKS. i cant get over it
 
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catwalking.com (Please don't hotlink. Thank you! ^_^)
 
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catwalking.com (Please don't hotlink. Thank you! ^_^)
 
Really love the lingerie pieces and well this collection doesn't feel new in any way, it sure is nice to look at.
 
high-waisted belts, new look revisited, lingerie-like pieces, flowy dresses... galliano is at the height of his creativity.
 
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catwalking.com (Please don't hotlink. Thank you! ^_^)
 
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catwalking.com (Please don't hotlink. Thank you! ^_^)
 
Pretty collection - but clearly an attempt to attract Valentino's clientele. Nothing particularly exciting. Very wearable, sellable, etc. I would definitely buy the jackets, they are great.
 
The gowns look divine but daywear is too boring and uninspired. I am very disappointed. John is one of the greatest designers of today and it's sad that he's just getting boring. I'm afraid that it's time for John to go because Dior is not what it used to be (super-glamorous, shocking, sexy).
 

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