Comme des Garçons S/S 2015 Paris

[Phuel]

^^^ It's the lack of strong skirt/pant design-- or just lack of any bottoms, that's giving the understandably Cirque-bodysuit vibe.

There are so many references, from fairy tale characters, to historical figures, to religious and pagan icons, to dolls and toys... yet all so intrinsically connected within the context of the presentation, and visually to the Comme design vocabulary, that I can forgive the lack of attention to the bottom part of the silhouette (and that tacky Cirque vibe) and immediately praise such a masterful execution of tight vision. Every outfit feels rich with character here.

We know that a more consumer-friendly version of these presentation pieces will make it to the shops in time, so it is interesting to see Rei's ideal version in the shows-- just as it will be interesting to see how these extreme versions will be interpreted for the shops.

Designers like Rei are a different breed apart from ones like Miuccia, Nicholas and Phoebe, whose vision of fashion-- as progressive as they may be, is always more grounded in consumer-accessibility. With so many of the visionaries gone now, Rei really is the last one of her kind still standing-- and not only standing, but she's more progressive and inventive than ever, to me. And Comme's experiments never come across precious, pretentious, or dead-serious "art" to me-- unlike many of the other "serious" designers. She's so effortless with her experiments, and so lacking in weighty, pretentious philosophical concepts, that I think this shows in the overall presentations: the styling, the models, all come across so light-- and innocent.

 

[Zazie]

Truly, I agree with everything you're saying in this post, all your points are spot on.

I guess to me the mantle of a fashion designer is the test of function, i.e. for the clothes to stand wearing, and how they impart magic to the wearer, or spark a new direction that influences how people look, think and feel in the streets, to speak for the spirit of the times.

That's the domain of the fashion designer and no other artist's.

Rei used to do that alot, defining new directions, launched unusual fashion concepts, inspiring legions of imitators, etc, though not in this or previous couple of collections due to the fact that they were mostly unwearable.

They remain inaccessible on the runway, as strange objects, and to me, rather self-absorbed. I quite dislike the "fairytale" aspect of these looks, a prettier version of Gareth Pugh.

Martin Margiela is a great example of never compromising his artistic vision, his ideals, philosophy, etc., expressing and fusing them with the medium of fashion. Wearers who are aware of his genius feel privileged to part-take of it, even a little...


I can't wait for Rei to send up more ideas in future that would become important memes of our time.

 

[margielamike2004]

I wish Rei would be as experimental as this collection...with her Homme Plus collections for men.

 

[Scott]

i have to say for as radical,esoteric and deeply conceptual as kawakubo has always been i feel despite how eccentric it was in years past it always maintained that element of wearer in mind. not commercial but certainly translatable. i do think in that she has kind of gone in a more theatrical direction.

 

[margielamike2004]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_MqvYipkrs

 

[Phuel]

Pants, Scott! Pants would have solved the too-theatrical criticisms! I honestly can't get Zazie's Cirque-reference out of my head now... LOL (Pants aren't the biggest CdG sellers, I suppose.)

She'll be back to presenting a more street-relatable collection next season, I'm sure.

That's what I admire about her: She knows the importance of presentation, and the equally, all-important aspect of selling and being relevant, in that sense. No one looks cool wearing anything of this presentation on the streets-- I think you'd have to be some caricature of a fashion victim to be wearing literal runway looks getting into cabs, taking the train, doing your job, having lunch... But, a more practical version of such dramatic designs, when styled with the wearer's own pieces, makes for an eclectic, individualistic impression and expression. Rei knows that, and I'm glad she's going all out in her presentations.

A fashion legend like Rei has earned the right to present her collection however she likes. What I've always appreciated of the Comme presentations are that, as theatrical as the pieces can be at times, that they're always presented in a very non-descript setting, rather than some elaborate, highly-stylized world produced for some ridiculous amount of money-- like those Chanel and Vuitton ones. I loved the settings that Gaultier, Galliano and McQueen would conjure up to present in, but I'm so glad Rei's alway resisted such a direction. And in that sense, no matter how outlandish or fantastically-outragous the designs may be, they are always grounded in the here and now.

 

[gazebo]

 

[mistress_f]

Some close up shots of the collection, currently on display at DSM London -











anothermag.com

 

[ultramarine]

I like it, but only half of it. It seems like this collection is a bit too self-referential for my taste?
Half of the stuff is really beautiful and I adore it. But half of it, has a really strong deja-vu feeling of seeing it on a previous collection. It bothers me in my head seems literally ripping herself off. It even clouds my judgement from the beautiful pieces like the hoods and some other perfectly constructed pieces.

I guess Im undecided

 

[softgrey]

i saw a pic of bjork wearing the red hooded cape...
nothing ever looked so normal...

...

thanks for the detail shots mistress...

 

[MON]

I love it. Red riding hood meets hunger games. I love the color and the details are fantastic. Always love me some CDG. Although, I am not that keen with the hair.. are those noodles?