• Xenforo Cloud will be upgrading us to version 2.3.5 on March 12th at 12 AM GMT. This version has increased stability and fixes several bugs. We expect downtime for the duration of the update.

Daniel Lee - Designer, Creative Director of Burberry

Exactly
The whole thing that Louis Pisano was circulating on twitter isn't true

You probably know MB was ecstatic when DL was booted out

Totally.

Not to be a conspiracy theorist, but no one will ever make me believe that execs hadn't been cooking for a while. You'll tell me that they booted DL on 10th November Daniel Lee Leaves Bottega Veneta in Surprise Split and named MB on the 15th Bottega Veneta Promotes Matthieu Blazy to Top Creative Role with none of this being prepared? With an official portrait already shot and everything? Ah well :innocent:
 
Totally.

Not to be a conspiracy theorist, but no one will ever make me believe that execs hadn't been cooking for a while. You'll tell me that they booted DL on 10th November Daniel Lee Leaves Bottega Veneta in Surprise Split and named MB on the 15th Bottega Veneta Promotes Matthieu Blazy to Top Creative Role with none of this being prepared? With an official portrait already shot and everything? Ah well :innocent:
FOR SURE it was in making for months! Im presuming the same with Ancora man-we have yet to hear who is the new person that will replace him but i am certain they know already!!!
With Daniel it was in a snowball effect for a long time because it was getting worse and worse and worse
 
Re: everything getting signed off by Marketing, from what I was told, it was the opposite at Bottega actually. Allegedly, he decided of every single thing happening, which led to him having a very very strained relationship with the execs who I assume felt excluded from decision making.
This detailed corporate meddling is what's happening at Gucci they told me even more so after SDS left the ceo is handpicking what pieces to put out of the upcoming collections before it was detail or general remarks .....but it's always a very bad sign when the corporate is to much into the creative.

Lee is right to sit out his contract for sure even if it's awkward ...even if i understand the team being upset that came with him but at same time i have to say also they indulged in the power they had arriving as the cool kids to show how things are done.

But failed to be also a mirror of reason to propose other things as they are yes men to Lee and betted on the new style to catch on and justify their loyalty to not oppose Lee actions and design directions.

Honesty does not make for good long lasting friendships they say.
 
Totally.

Not to be a conspiracy theorist, but no one will ever make me believe that execs hadn't been cooking for a while. You'll tell me that they booted DL on 10th November Daniel Lee Leaves Bottega Veneta in Surprise Split and named MB on the 15th Bottega Veneta Promotes Matthieu Blazy to Top Creative Role with none of this being prepared? With an official portrait already shot and everything? Ah well :innocent:
My view is that execs at Kering are pretty clueless though: they did not anticipated MB not renewing and leaving for Chanel. It all happened behind their back and just had MB 6 month notice to anticipate a replacement. It all happened behind Virginie Viard's back too.

And my own conspiracy theory is that MB snitched on DL to get him out and to take his job; he was already head designer, execs did not have to search very far.

And Kering was also clueless when Valentino, in which they have just invested, hired precisely the CD Gucci fired 14 months earlier.

And, mark my words, they will be clueless when Anthony will give up fashion to be a full time cinema producer.

In short, Kering's execs aren't cooking anything, they are running after departed trains.
 
My view is that execs at Kering are pretty clueless though: they did not anticipated MB not renewing and leaving for Chanel. It all happened behind their back and just had MB 6 month notice to anticipate a replacement. It all happened behind Virginie Viard's back too.

And my own conspiracy theory is that MB snitched on DL to get him out and to take his job; he was already head designer, execs did not have to search very far.

And Kering was also clueless when Valentino, in which they have just invested, hired precisely the CD Gucci fired 14 months earlier.

And, mark my words, they will be clueless when Anthony will give up fashion to be a full time cinema producer.

In short, Kering's execs aren't cooking anything, they are running after departed trains.

Yes and yes! :innocent:
 
But guys, that happens all the time. I know some creative directors that have been working for a label when there was already a designer in that label and nobody knew they were going to change CDs…

It’s all very meditated. And it’s crazy because the decisions rarely come from the CEOs (at least what I’ve seen). It’s people on top of them usually the ones deciding.
 
Depends on Ceo reputation if he or she had a successful CD underneath him or her ....adds to the aura of knowing who to bet on and trust is given from the top.

Marco did bet on AM and got approval from the top bosses ......while Cantino is a puppet of Belletini lady (Cantino is known at LV to not be interested in creative projects and has a classic power hungry taste )

Most Ceo´s ride the success of CD´s on to the next job till they fail x times and some desperate brand takes them
 
^Yep, it is interesting that some think Burberry's problem was just the price rises done by Jonathan Akeroyd... it really wasn't.

If it was just the price rises that made Burberry flop, we'd have a very small bunch of well-off people walking around with Lee's Burberry designs.

Instead, 2 years after his appointment I have not seen one person firsthand, in the whole of Australia, wearing his designs. The only Burberry items worn on the streets here are still classic Burberry items (like the coat and scarf). Lee's Burberry was simply not desirable to the traditional Burberry customer - yes, the price rises did not help at all but when a product is desirable enough (e.g. the Birkin), consumers will pay to obtain it.

As much as other members love to paint it as though Lee's Burberry was creative and full of innovation/would've been perfect at a lower price point, I strongly disagree. If that was the case, the following would have occurred:

1) A very small number of well-off people would've loved and worn Lee's Burberry designs, finding it worth the money
2) The majority of fashion lovers would've talked more about it and it would've been "coveted", similar to Miu Miu's relatively recent rise in popularity in the younger consumers
3) Products in Burberry's mid-season sales would've sold quickly due to the desirability being there and the price now relatively affordable

Instead, Burberry has largely slipped off the radar, no one is talking about it unless they already loved the brand beforehand, and a large majority of Lee's Burberry is now on sale in SSENSE for over 50% off - and it is not selling at over 50% off either.

The majority of the products were simply not desirable enough to the target market.

We are talking about the luxury goods market, one of the few segments where consumers are the least price sensitive. Yes, Burberry did not have the brand image to support such price rises but that also suggests that Lee's Burberry was not that desirable to begin with, if no one was buying it.

I think I agree with aspects of this, but the comparison with Miu Miu is an interesting one. Looking back, it's hard to tell what exactly led to Miu Miu's astronomical rise in the past couple years. I'd say that the codes they have in place now go back to around 2019-2020, with the Fall 2021 show as the signal moment where things start to gain momentum. Yet the massive spike in sales they're experiencing now really only started last year, and was undoubtedly spurred in part by the New Balance collaboration (which began in 2022 and certainly reintroduced the "younger consumers" you mention to Miu Miu). That's a 4-5 year arc, during which we go from people loathing Miu Miu (look at the vitriol on these forums, the hatred for Raf and Katie Grand, etc) to its current status as one of the most coveted brands.

I'm not sure we can say Daniel Lee would've had similar success if given more time, but sometimes there's a gap or lag between the introduction of a proposition, etc. and its uptake or success. I don't think anyone is claiming that what Daniel was doing was enough on its own, or that pricing was the single determining factor. But I do think that it's fair to say that desirability is fickle and sometimes products don't immediately find their market, even if they are high quality. Pricing is a huge aspect of this, but as the Miu Miu example shows, sometimes it's also a matter of bridging or connecting propositions with different or new demographics. Daniel's Burberry might have succeeded given both more time, and a more strategic pursuit of new buyers, but it was kneecapped pretty quickly when there wasn't an immediate turnaround.
 
Last edited:
I was told that MB rallied a few senior members of the design team and atelier and formed what was essentially a s****** pack sometime before the Detroit show (for somewhat valid reasons). I also know that at least 2 members of the design team have left to join DL at Burberry since 2023, so evidently it wasn’t as ‘DL vs everyone’ as they made it seem.
 
^ I heard that too.

I was told that those who had come and have since left Burberry allegedly did it more due to (quoting my source) "the appalling company culture" than anything. One described it as a "snake pit". I guess it's quite the culture shock if they came from Bottega where DL had the lead on everything...
 
yeah because people got better on their shady behaviour lol...and when money and power is at risk makes everything worse, but then all of them pose for pictures like nothing...like gossip girl characters lol...
And it’s also that people may also be fed up by others bullshits.
Sometimes in fashion, personalities clashes. And people have personal goals and interests and it’s sad but a co-worker we got along very well may be our enemy next.
I mean we saw it with Carine and Emmanuelle too and I have heard and witness a lot of situations too.

And I have always said that: the worst thing about fashion is that it’s a field where it’s impossible to separate life and work.


Nevertheless, I love Lee and Blazy. I wish Blazy all the success at Chanel but equally I wish that Lee will finally find a house where he can exploit all his potential
 

Users who are viewing this thread

New Posts

Forum Statistics

Threads
213,207
Messages
15,214,167
Members
87,166
Latest member
Afs9999
Back
Top