Demna Gvasalia - Designer, Creative Director of Gucci

[Salvatore]

we're probably going to love and pride ourselves again on using our brains for creativity, critical thinking, and problem solving and opting for mostly the real, soulful, and human over the synthetic, empty, and soulless.

I hate to be the party downer but how will this happen? if tech via social media and tech as in AI made people more stupid like literally , AI users displayed the "weakest" brain connectivity in a new MIT study that hints AI use harms critical thinking while social media is responsible for depression, fake news and part of data survelice economie etc etc

even on this forum critical thinking is constantly under attack and homogenized into linking or not liking boxes

i am not sure the man made will have such relevance as they get better at growing animal skins and less people will want to work as there is universal basic income , i think values will shift in regards to use of raw materials and human labour.

when AI is using so much drinking water to cool off making cities run dry and electricity outage or increases cost for local citizen where they have a AI data center the environment is put more under stress.

the technocrates have different values toward luxury or fashion i see hard luxury survive a bit longer that soft luxury as hard luxury like watches and cars are more obviously technical and closer to technology understanding of value

I know LV is working for years on improvement of their PC coated canvas bags as eu rules get stricter and at one point be not aloud the chemicals used for the coating , chanel has investments in longevity and tech behind the scenes etc etc

i see the value of brands and what material and how the are made change with time also the idea of hand made as top luxury wich hermes is the only one beside couture or tailors in italy or london or some shoes makers or rolce royce etc for efficiency and saving of what's left of the planet there will be a change forced by laws or gradually implemented via willinges for innovation.

i am more sceptical of this dream of return to commodity and status symbol will be "100% Human Made" or most luxurious houses/brands will differentiate themselves from the rest by getting the real thing - real models, real stylists, real locations, real products .

because there will not be much real left either because environmental impact or need for it or the education to have the desire

I'm off of my fast (62 hours lol plain fromage blanc never tasted so good) so I'll reply to this in due time lol, but you did bring up some interesting points. I do think external circumstances will drive the shift, but also people making conscious and educated decisions and putting in effort to do differently will help. Maybe I am a little too Pollyanna and have too much faith in others because I have faith in myself, but I every bubble bursts. The way things currently are is not sustainable and no matter if you want to push beyond it, sometimes it's not possible. Furthermore, if people can be fooled into adults fighting children over Stanley cups in a Target in the Midwest or this Labubus craze (also remember NFTs ... where are they now?), this shows that value can be placed on anything and everything if the intent, marketing, and timing is right.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

If your way of working was to take a pair of vintage sunglasses and put your brand on it or open your show with an almost exact copy of an old ballet dress, you really deserve that your spot is taken by AI.
AI is lazy solutions for lazy people and dynamics of laziness.

Maybe it is time for we humans to step up our game.

 

[Avonlea]

No one is going to step up their game when laziness is rewarded. There are no standards anymore. Time, skill, talent and knowledge have been depreciated. Nothing matters, everything has to be cheap, fast and easy. Humans really love self sabotage.

 

[Salvatore]

No one is going to step up their game when laziness is rewarded. There are no standards anymore. Time, skill, talent and knowledge have been depreciated. Nothing matters, everything has to be cheap, fast and easy. Humans really love self sabotage.

If your way of working was to take a pair of vintage sunglasses and put your brand on it or open your show with an almost exact copy of an old ballet dress, you really deserve that your spot is taken by AI.
AI is lazy solutions for lazy people and dynamics of laziness.

Maybe it is time for we humans to step up our game.

You both bring up great points I think. I think that a lot hold Phoebe Philo and Ghesquière (who I love and admire dearly) at the level of genius, but they have copied, and still do copy, almost down to the very stitch, yet they are still held in high esteem and even sometimes regarded as genius. They have this way of taking something and making it their absolute own and/or they have such a good track record, that people are willing to forgive them. It is lazy in a way, for sure, but I think they use their unique eyes, tastes, and obsessions for curation as well to adapt things to their world. It's not like certain designers who jump on what's cool, hot, and trendy for the moment. That's why it works sometimes, lawsuits aside lol. That is to say, it will take someone who actually doesn't care or is not really pressured into conforming by whatever forces outside of themselves may be, whether that be the C-suite or peers or consumer trends. It's got to be someone daring to do what they want and have joy. As our dear @Lola701 says, it's the job of the C-Suite to support and make it work. I may not always love Schiaparelli and what Roseberry is doing there and they may not actually be making much of a profit (if at all), but at least the CEO and owner both support him and encourage him to do what he does. It'll pay off soon and hopefully start to flip the industry. When people see that mediocrity is out of vogue, they'll switch up. It just takes a few people stepping up and f*cking the system up. (God I feel like I am ranting, but it makes sense in my brain at least !)

 

[PDFSD]

(use case of hermes)​

Creativity and Design: The Inspired Collaborator​

Hermès’ engagement with AI in the creative sphere is perhaps its most cautious and telling. Here, AI is positioned strictly as a collaborator—an inspirational tool that serves the human designer but never presumes to lead. AI tools are used to analyze the company’s vast design archives, alongside current market data and cultural patterns, to identify emerging aesthetic preferences or suggest novel combinations of color and material. This provides designers with a rich tapestry of data-driven insights to spark their own creativity.

AI also plays a valuable role in accelerating the prototyping phase. AI-powered design software allows the team to generate and test virtual prototypes of new products, such as a handbag, simulating its durability, aesthetics, and functionality before a single piece of leather is cut. This iterative process significantly reduces the time and material resources required to bring a new design to life, again aligning with the principle of sufficiency.

Despite these applications, the company is unequivocal that the act of creation itself remains a sacrosanct human endeavor. AI may provide inspiration and efficiency in the pre-production stages, but the final design, the artistic vision, and the physical execution are the exclusive domain of the house’s artistic directors and artisans. This approach uses AI to de-risk the creative process, not to automate it. The creative journey in luxury carries high stakes; a misaligned collection can be incredibly costly in both financial and reputational terms. By using AI to analyze trends and validate concepts with virtual prototypes, Hermès can provide data-driven support for its designers’ creative instincts. This allows them to explore bolder, more innovative ideas with a higher degree of confidence that they will resonate with the market. In this model, AI does not replace the “magic” of creation; it uses data to build a stronger, more resilient foundation upon which that magic can flourish.

 

[Salvatore]

^^ I think that is the right way to use it.
You know, maybe Demna at Gucci is what the industry needs right now. It could be so insanely good in a way that is true to him, but true to Gucci elevating the brand. Or it could flop and make his voice not as powerful and people see the what laziness does. I mean, Lallo is gasping for air over at Valentino as the company is crashing. He might as well have used AI for what he made as he is on autopilot anyway. Human, yes, but lazy ! I think we all just want heart and soul back at the end of the day by any means. That's what I want from Dario at Versace, Pierpaolo at Balenciaga, Demna at Gucci, Blazy at Chanel, and JWA at Dior.

 

[HigthaVandah]

AI also plays a valuable role in accelerating the prototyping phase. AI-powered design software allows the team to generate and test virtual prototypes of new products, such as a handbag, simulating its durability, aesthetics, and functionality before a single piece of leather is cut. This iterative process significantly reduces the time and material resources required to bring a new design to life, again aligning with the principle of sufficiency.

This approach uses AI to de-risk the creative process, not to automate it. The creative journey in luxury carries high stakes; a misaligned collection can be incredibly costly in both financial and reputational terms. By using AI to analyze trends and validate concepts with virtual prototypes, Hermès can provide data-driven support for its designers’ creative instincts. This allows them to explore bolder, more innovative ideas with a higher degree of confidence that they will resonate with the market.

So more product can be designed, more quickly, and with less reference to the end user's experience or body. It sounds like these developments allow design teams to get further in the process before anyone ever actually holds a prototype in their hand and tries it on. Seems like that would make it more difficult to change course if something doesn't work out in practice, leading to more disconnect between runway/campaigns and actual available product.

 

[PDFSD]

its written by ai via an AI Company :-)
just wanted to show how easy emotion and authenticity can be be interpreted by AI even for a company like hermes
there are more use cases that go into technical part of the company also interesting but i need a drink lol

speaking of kering from same case study :

Kering: The Digitalization Drive for a Turnaround​

Kering’s approach to AI is framed as a core component of a broader digital transformation, aimed at addressing operational challenges, enhancing e-commerce capabilities, and closing the profitability gap with its rivals.18 The strategy appears more project-based and experimental than LVMH’s platform approach, positioning Kering as a tech-forward fast-follower.
As early as 2019, Kering detailed an AI roadmap that included ambitious projects in supply chain optimization (the “Pythagoras Project” for store replenishment), demand planning, and dynamic price optimization.36 More recently, the group has experimented with consumer-facing AI, launching a tech-first marketplace called KNXT featuring an AI-powered personal shopping chatbot named “/madeline” and integrating NFTs.37 It has also partnered with technology firms like Heartdub to create digital twins and virtual try-on experiences, signaling a focus on innovating the customer journey.38
The stated philosophy from CEO François-Henri Pinault is to use AI to “free up resources to focus on business planning” and thereby gain a “great competitive advantage”.35 The emphasis is clearly on leveraging AI for efficiency and driving growth through digital channels. This strategy, while necessary for a company seeking to improve performance, carries its own set of risks. The primary challenge is the potential for cultural friction between a top-down, tech-driven overhaul and the carefully cultivated heritage of its brands, which include Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Bottega Veneta.18 If AI implementation feels reactive or inauthentic to the core ethos of these maisons, it could be rejected by both internal creative teams and savvy consumers, undermining the very brand equity it is meant to enhance.

Comparative AI Strategy: Hermès, LVMH, Kering Analysis​

The divergent paths of these three luxury titans can be distilled into a comparative framework. This analysis codifies their differing philosophies, governance structures, primary use cases, and strategic risks, making the singularity of the Hermès approach tangible and clear.

Vector	Hermès	LVMH	Kering
Core Philosophy	Governed Innovation: AI as a precision tool to amplify human craftsmanship and brand integrity.	Quiet Tech at Scale: AI as a pervasive, invisible engine for operational efficiency and personalization across a diverse portfolio.	Digital Transformation: AI as a key lever for operational turnaround, e-commerce growth, and competitive catch-up.
Governance	Proactive & Centralized: A dedicated AI Governance Committee (2025) to manage risk, protect IP, and define ethical boundaries before mass adoption.19	Decentralized & Platform-Based: A central data platform (with Google Cloud) enables maisons to deploy AI tools, with a focus on best-practice sharing.29	Experimental & Project-Based: Adopting AI for specific initiatives (e.g., chatbots, supply chain projects) as part of a broader innovation agenda.37
Key Use Cases: Supply Chain	Predictive analytics for demand forecasting and inventory optimization to support “sufficiency” and manage scarcity.24	AI-driven supply chain planning, logistics efficiency, and sustainability tracking (Genesis, Sweep partnerships).34	AI-driven demand planning and replenishment optimization (Pythagoras Project).36
Key Use Cases: CRM & Personalization	Augmenting the sales associate with deep client insights to enhance human-led relationships.24	AI agents summarizing client history for staff; personalized messaging and product recommendations.29	AI chatbots for personal shopping; personalized e-mail propositions and client relations.36
Key Use Cases: Design	AI as an inspirational collaborator for trend analysis and virtual prototyping; creation remains strictly human-led.24	GenAI for creating mood boards; 3D visualization for cost-cutting (Omi partnership).32	AI-driven trend prediction and collection structure optimization; digital twins (Heartdub partnership).36
Primary Strategic Risk	Risk of being perceived as technologically lagging; potential to miss out on first-mover advantages in certain AI applications.	Brand dilution from generic AI; potential for customer alienation if “quiet tech” feels intrusive; managing ethical AI at massive scale.	Cultural friction between tech-driven overhaul and heritage brand identity; risk of AI implementation appearing inauthentic or reactive.

Defining Dominance: Why Less Is More​

In the context of luxury and artificial intelligence, the concept of “dominance” requires redefinition. It is not a matter of possessing the most powerful algorithms or the most widespread automation. Rather, it is about pioneering the most sustainable, brand-accretive, and strategically sound model for integrating technology into a business where heritage, authenticity, and human touch are the ultimate currencies. By synthesizing the preceding analysis, it becomes clear that Hermès’ deliberate, governed approach—its philosophy of “less is more”—is precisely what will secure its dominance in the AI-inflected future of luxury.

The Authenticity Moat in the Age of Generative AI​

The proliferation of sophisticated generative AI models represents an existential threat to brands whose value is tied to a unique aesthetic and intellectual property. With text-to-image generators, anyone can now create a plausible, high-fidelity image “in the style of” a famous luxury brand, or even a “photo of a Birkin bag on the moon”.23 This capability threatens to flood the digital landscape with facsimiles, devaluing the very visual codes that brands have spent decades building.
Hermès’ strategy constitutes the most robust possible defense against this threat. Its formidable authenticity moat is built not on a single technology but on a multi-layered system of protection. This includes vigorous legal defense of its IP, but more fundamentally, it is rooted in a value proposition that AI cannot replicate: the story of human creation. The value of an Hermès product is not merely in its appearance, which an AI might mimic, but in the verifiable narrative of its origin—the specific artisan who crafted it, the workshop it came from, the hours of hand-stitching that went into its construction.5 This story is its unique, inimitable signature.
By publicly and repeatedly committing to a human-led creative process and establishing a governance committee to enforce that boundary, Hermès is strategically positioning itself as the antithesis of the generative AI movement. As the digital world becomes increasingly saturated with AI-generated content of uncertain origin and authenticity, the demand for verifiable, tangible, human-made artistry will soar. Hermès is not just selling a product; it is selling certainty and authenticity. Its dominance will derive from being the most trusted and desirable safe harbor in a sea of digital copies.
read full : https://www.klover.ai/hermes-ai-strategy-dominance-in-luxury/

 

[HigthaVandah]

The Authenticity Moat in the Age of Generative AI

A Larry Niven reference? Does the AI think it's being clever?

 

[PDFSD]

So more product can be designed, more quickly, and with less reference to the end user's experience or body. It sounds like these developments allow design teams to get further in the process before anyone ever actually holds a prototype in their hand and tries it on. Seems like that would make it more difficult to change course if something doesn't work out in practice, leading to more disconnect between runway/campaigns and actual available product.

its actual opposite in a way : speed is not the key selling point its able to try more 100X ideas in same time in order to get deeper into developments as there is time to do so as there are options that go further than what was humanly possible in season development deadline is the argument of AI

prototyping is costly and you have only few changes to adjust normally , with Ai the argument is you try more and get the best results in prototyping to have fewer risk of misjudgements or adjustments the space is left for human creativity to mix add or be inspired for furter creation etc.

course change can happen as there's enough time as Ai work faster in making 100´s of version of alternatives or design solving issues etc

disconnect between runway/campaigns and actual available product.?
the product development happens first then sample production that goes in to the runwayshow and used for ad campaigns and then be actually available in stores or online , where they can use data from sales and customers feedback to inform the next collection.

that's the right order Ai is there at the start in and at the end in this use case

also some cases hermes shows a bag in the fashion show but does not launch it till a year or 2 later as they dont have space for production or have to figure out issues with the design .

gucci and other brands don't have this

^^ I think that is the right way to use it.
You know, maybe Demna at Gucci is what the industry needs right now. It could be so insanely good in a way that is true to him, but true to Gucci elevating the brand. Or it could flop and make his voice not as powerful and people see the what laziness does. I mean, Lallo is gasping for air over at Valentino as the company is crashing. He might as well have used AI for what he made as he is on autopilot anyway. Human, yes, but lazy ! I think we all just want heart and soul back at the end of the day by any means. That's what I want from Dario at Versace, Pierpaolo at Balenciaga, Demna at Gucci, Blazy at Chanel, and JWA at Dior.

Maybe Demna at Gucci is what the industry needs right now i don't know if this is true Demana does use technology for manufacturing and design and stylistic visuals i did not see him lean full on into it, it's still treated as novelty i feel.
maybe with the new group ceo it will be more, he likes enovation as well.

 

[Salvatore]

its actual opposite in a way : speed is not the key selling point its able to try more 100X ideas in same time in order to get deeper into developments as there is time to do so as there are options that go further than what was humanly possible in season development deadline is the argument of AI

prototyping is costly and you have only few changes to adjust normally , with Ai the argument is you try more and get the best results in prototyping to have fewer risk of misjudgements or adjustments the space is left for human creativity to mix add or be inspired for furter creation etc.

course change can happen as there's enough time as Ai work faster in making 100´s of version of alternatives or design solving issues etc

disconnect between runway/campaigns and actual available product.?
the product development happens first then sample production that goes in to the runwayshow and used for ad campaigns and then be actually available in stores or online , where they can use data from sales and customers feedback to inform the next collection.

that's the right order Ai is there at the start in and at the end in this use case

also some cases hermes shows a bag in the fashion show but does not launch it till a year or 2 later as they dont have space for production or have to figure out issues with the design .

gucci and other brands don't have this



Maybe Demna at Gucci is what the industry needs right now i don't know if this is true Demana does use technology for manufacturing and design and stylistic visuals i did not see him lean full on into it, it's still treated as novelty i feel.
maybe with the new group ceo it will be more, he likes enovation as well.

Well what I mean is that so much is riding on this appointment and the industry is watching. If what he does brings Gucci from its near-death experience, people will pay attention and follow what he's doing. If by any chance it does flop hard like Jessica Stam (@LadyJunon lol) then we'll really know what's up ... that people are not going buying it ... literally and figuratively.

 

[jeanclaude]

But there’s also something great with the idea of « poor results », inconsistency. That’s the human side too. The idea of being influenced, to propose something representative of it time and to appreciate it differently at different times of our lives.
Has fashion ever been great as we age though? Or rather our perception of fashion I should say.

The only danger with AI for me it’s laziness. Because in some ways, the « formulas » of AI are not so different from the « formulas » of a veteran. But there’s something inherent to real humans that allows them to push things forward.

Without AI still in full force, we are already suffering laziness from most part of designers nowadays. When AI takes over, laziness will become the standard in the industry (at this rate)...