Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[perhydrol]

They finally made an official statement... Well, Natacha was getting better and better in understanding the brand's atmosphere and creating a real sense of community around Chloé. What strikes me the most is that it was Natacha who felt a real need of change in fashion during the first lockdown, she wanted to change the calendar and create less waste with her collections. It was the first time she was so vocal about it and it's such a shame the suits decided not to let Natacha do the things her way.

They are really creating the post-Philo situation once again at Chloé, but this time they are desperate to recreate the Clare Waight Keller's success. I truly hope they won't go for Gabriela Hearst because her aesthetic, while boho-ish, is incredibly bland.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

Horrible. Why should these houses groom their talent and let designers grow when all that matters is the top line? I hope she takes her experience and uses it to create her own label. She is young yet showed signs of promise.

 

[tatouejeremie]

the currect design director of loewe was interviewed for natacha's job ages ago, not sure how that ended but i wonder if he'll go there

 

[Yohji]

Agh, it’s always the designers I’m rooting for - another being CWK at Givenchy.

And yet Maria Grazia is still employed.

 

[readings]

And yet Maria Grazia is still employed.

I really have to stop spamming this thread with this but: why god why

 

[Yohji]

I really have to stop spamming this thread with this but: why god why

I haven’t followed Dior’s sales but I can only assume that’s why?

 

[Marc10]

Her fist few collections were so strong and directional, she had a bright future there. But you could see the suits twisting her arm to make more basic and commercial clothes, which made the quality drop significantly, and end up not achieving anything.

 

[Lola701]

I’m not mad at Natacha leaving. Her creativity was contrived so it made no sense to have her there...
I think they should put Gabrielle Greiss in the position. She was great for Sonia Rykiel and she works already at Chloé. That aesthetic is very « her ».

I wonder if Natacha will go back to Vuitton. I’m more interested in what’s next for her than anything the suits will do for Chloé.

 

[Nomar]

I can’t believe that it’s been four years since she took the reins at Chloé. It really didn’t feel that long.

Anyway, I thought she was pretty good she had a female perspective that felt authentic. I’m wishing her all the best for her future endeavours. She is talented and I hope she will be appreciated elsewhere.

 

[fashionista-ta]

They finally made an official statement... Well, Natacha was getting better and better in understanding the brand's atmosphere and creating a real sense of community around Chloé. What strikes me the most is that it was Natacha who felt a real need of change in fashion during the first lockdown, she wanted to change the calendar and create less waste with her collections. It was the first time she was so vocal about it and it's such a shame the suits decided not to let Natacha do the things her way.

They are really creating the post-Philo situation once again at Chloé, but this time they are desperate to recreate the Clare Waight Keller's success. I truly hope they won't go for Gabriela Hearst because her aesthetic, while boho-ish, is incredibly bland.

I would love to see Gabriela's ethics applied to a larger brand.

 

[TZ001]

I haven’t followed Dior’s sales but I can only assume that’s why?

Indeed, Maria designed several it bags and the sale is still increasing, even during the pandemic.

 

[Lola701]

I would love to see Gabriela's ethics applied to a larger brand.

Don’t you feel like that aesthetic has been done to that in the industry? Do we need another brand doing it (as big as it might be)?

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I feel bad for Natacha. She had potential that could have grown into something more if she was given more creative freedom. She had a fabulous start. Her first collection was so chic and fresh. It all went downhill from there. Unfortunately it became obvious who was running the show at the end. Her collections became more commercial and less directional to a point where her voice was no longer heard. It’s really a shame how designers have to sell out to keep a job. She will be better off elsewhere. She had a better run then Paulo, but that goes to show what kind of company Chloe truly is.

 

[fashionista-ta]

Don’t you feel like that aesthetic has been done to that in the industry? Do we need another brand doing it (as big as it might be)?

By ethics, I mean her approach to sustainability. The biggest brand that has done this is Eileen Fisher I think ... not sure of the size of Stella McCartney? For that reason, I'm interested in seeing her influence expand. Not saying the clothes are exciting ... I'm not crazy

 

[avonlea002]

I do not feel sorry for her. Same applies to the CWK. Some designers are not capable of such a serious role. Her Chloe was forgettable at best.

 

[fakeawake]

Im about to say something very controversial.

Comparing Phoebe Philo's work at Chloe to her work at Celine it is clear to me that Phoebe relies heavily on the house that she works for. Meaning, it is Celine's slightly dull timeless french aesthetic that enabled Phoebe to make those clothes. Her work at Chloe is honestly Roberto Cavalli light and I really only remember that era for the Paddington bag. That is not to say that I think RC is a bad designer, he's very underrated but for his sense of color and pattern not for his sense of shape.

That's why I think we should never expect another run like that from her again, she's another Tom Ford.

Phoebe at Celine was only enabled to be good because of Celine's unique French heritage.

 

[GERGIN]

In my opinion Gabriela Hearst would do wonders at Hermès...

 

[ecnerretneerg]

I’m still mad that Marc Jacobs isn’t at Schiaparelli

 

[Lola701]

In my opinion Gabriela Hearst would do wonders at Hermès...

That’s what people believed when Nadège left The ROW. Those very obvious pairings are not working IMO. It would be pointless for Hermès to chase Margiela’s ghost.

I’m still mad that Marc Jacobs isn’t at Schiaparelli

It’s not like they can afford him (excluding the fact that it’s contractually impossible)....

 

[Marc10]

I’m still mad that Marc Jacobs isn’t at Schiaparelli

Not sure he would have time time with his busy career on Instagram.