Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[bc collector]

I’m still mad that Marc Jacobs isn’t at Schiaparelli

That would mean that Della Valle has decided what to do with Schiaparelli.
I have a feeling that the whole Schiap operation was motivated more by vanity - as in: not to look less than other fashion groups busily involved in heritage houses acquisitions - than by real motivation or an accurate business plan. The brand survives on marketing fluff and red carpet, they have not turned it into a believable RTW business (let alone a HC one), neither have accessories or perfumes (once upon a time a thriving business) made a step into relevance.
I wouldn't be surprised if DDV sold the house at this point (provided he found a suitable buyer).

 

[fashionista-ta]

Maybe I'm wrong, but I have little confidence in Marc's ability to do justice to an important historic house like Schiaparelli ...

 

[JohannesL]

In order to become one of the top-tier brands and have the gut to compete with them, Schiaparelli needs more than a strong vision and personality, Galliano or Theyskens could have done wonders if they have the necessary support. Otherwise, Schiaparelli is another than another dormant house or another sleeping beauty. I always thought that this brand has all the potentials: the heritage, the identity, and the prestige. But time flies, today who can still remember the MET theme 2012? All are passe! I don't think they can still make it happen in the 2020s.

 

[Lola701]

In order to become one of the top-tier brands and have the gut to compete with them, Schiaparelli needs more than a strong vision and personality, Galliano or Theyskens could have done wonders if they have the necessary support. Otherwise, Schiaparelli is another than another dormant house or another sleeping beauty. I always thought that this brand has all the potentials: the heritage, the identity, and the prestige. But time flies, today who can still remember the MET theme 2012? All are passe! I don't think they can still make it happen in the 2020s.

They had Lacroix. Unfortunately, Della Valle decided to do a stunt, produce a collection, held an exhibition and that’s it. The clothes never made it to the clients closets or even on RC.

Lacroix was in fact a good idea. Schiaparelli has an amazing potential with the right strategy. Unfortunately, nothing seems to make sense.

 

[Mathewthew]

I’m not mad at Natacha leaving. Her creativity was contrived so it made no sense to have her there...
I think they should put Gabrielle Greiss in the position. She was great for Sonia Rykiel and she works already at Chloé. That aesthetic is very « her ».

I wonder if Natacha will go back to Vuitton. I’m more interested in what’s next for her than anything the suits will do for Chloé.

Oh My God, Gabrielle is the perfect choice, her aesthetic is very Chloe and she is there since Claire...I would love her to be the CD of Chloe !!!

 

[JohannesL]

They had Lacroix. Unfortunately, Della Valle decided to do a stunt, produce a collection, held an exhibition and that’s it. The clothes never made it to the clients closets or even on RC.

Lacroix was in fact a good idea. Schiaparelli has an amazing potential with the right strategy. Unfortunately, nothing seems to make sense.

Lola, you are right! How could I forget they had le maestro Lacroix at the very beginning. In that case, Schiaparelli is hopeless indeed!

 

[jeanclaude]

Pierre Cardin has passed away today (the last living disciple of Cristóbal Balenciaga).

Will his brand get the interest of fashion industry´s biggest predators (LVMH and Kering)?...

 

[Lola701]

Pierre Cardin has passed away today (the last living disciple of Cristóbal Balenciaga).

Will his brand get the interest of fashion industry´s biggest predators (LVMH and Kering)?...

He wanted to sell his group for years! He asked for 1billion but it was too much for any potential buyer.

The biggest asset of his group is not necessarly the biggest asset overall. I think the Arnault and Pinault would be more interested in his restaurants, homes or Space than his fashion empire composed of an awful number of licences...

 

[velvetandsilk]

Cardin has too much licence make business valuation and takeover is complicated.

 

[jeanclaude]

He wanted to sell his group for years! He asked for 1billion but it was too much for any potential buyer.

The biggest asset of his group is not necessarly the biggest asset overall. I think the Arnault and Pinault would be more interested in his restaurants, homes or Space than his fashion empire composed of an awful number of licences...

Yes, his licences are a big problem. I have seen matresses and even home appliances bearing his name...the image of his brand is totally devaluated because of this (and for the new generations Cardin as a brand or as a designer is totally unknown).


font: www.reclamospublicitariosonline.com

 

[fakeawake]

Marc at Schiaparelli?

If they couldn't make LaCroix would at Schiaparelli they should just let the brand die.

And Pierre Cardin is not important enough to revive, we are already slogging through the Marnis' and Schiaparelli's of the world. Not another Zombie house.

 

[bc collector]

Yes, his licences are a big problem. I have seen matresses and even home appliances bearing his name...the image of his brand is totally devaluated because of this (and for the new generations Cardin as a brand or as a designer is totally unknown).

All of the above and moreover: his style is, I'm afraid, irreparably dated:

do we need another Courreges disaster?

 

[eugenius]

Quick...where's that Unsubscribe button?

 

[vogue28]

Charles de Vilmorin has been named creative director of Rochas:

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Just what we need another white twink creative director

 

[perhydrol]

^I mean, there's nothing wrong about being a white twink creative director, but he had his debut in January, didn't he? And it wasn't that wonderful to hire him anywhere immediately. That's even more unfair than sticking to what seems to be a bias.

 

[Marc10]

Well that was fast lol. I've been following him for a while, he seems like a talented guy but also pretty green (his clothes so far have a bit of a Fashion East quality, take that as you will). I wish they would've given him at least a couple more of years of experience before throwing a big job. Hopefully he's not biting more than he can chew here...

It's nice to see a french maison take a chance on a young french designer for a change tho.

 

[avonlea002]

I don't have much hope of that. His designs make me puke. Talent-wise he is the twink equivalent of Jacquemus.

 

[tatouejeremie]

besides his drawings (which are just awful to me) there's nothing of note going on in his designs, he does one shape for his jackets and rest seems to be jersey?

i wonder how much these d-list designers get paid for these d-list jobs? can't be much

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It's all very Clown Couture, isn't it? There is some decent patchwork going on a nice sense of color but I don't think that is a strong enough foundation to apply to a Couture house. There are maybe 3 looks in total that are all remade in different variations. All I get from this was sloppy voulmes, rainbows, and art school prints. I don't think it's particularly modern or fresh. It's like Schiaparelli for Kids, maybe Babies more than kids. He's definitely relying heavily on his prints. There was nothing out of the ordinary construction wise. I fear he might try to stage a Galliano-esque collection. The only problem is it lacks the depth and intelligence. They don't make talent like they used to. A young McQueen could run laps and circles around all of these new "designers" and without the gimmicks. Enough already. I would like to leave Instagram's influence in the 2010s. Would that be so much to ask for?