Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Lola701]

It’s actually a good idea to snatch him right away.
He has a relative buzz and he is less expensive than Alessandro Dell Aqua or any previous designer.

This is Rochas after all.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Are we that ...desperate ? His work seems very 2007 when Castelbajac was still somewhere. I'd like to have a conversation with the ones calling him a genius. Their eyes seem to not be in the right place.

 

[Lola701]

Are we that ...desperate ? His work seems very 2007 when Castelbajac was still somewhere. I'd like to have a conversation with the ones calling him a genius. Their eyes seem to not be in the right place.

Ahaha Castelbajac! So right after Rochas, I guess Benetton will snatch him
Up!

 

[YohjiAddict]

In paper I really like the idea of having a young designer try his hand at a house like Rochas but seeing his work I'm more than doubtful he will measure up.

I quite enjoyed Alessandro's tenure, Zanini's and of course Theyskens', all three meant something to me...so I will actually be sad if Charles puts out an atrocity exhibition (like his recent "couture" collection) for this house.

 

[tourbillions]

TFS: We want new and fresh designers, the designers are just playing musical chairs.
Also TFS: Why him?? He is too young, why didn't they wait out a few more years. He is all hype etc. etc.

I wonder how TFS would have received the first collections of the likes of Mcqueen who pretty much did a lot of hype clothes in his first collections and with a lot of vulgarity. I don't think he even presented his immaculate tailoring in his first collection.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

TFS: We want new and fresh designers, the designers are just playing musical chairs.
Also TFS: Why him?? He is too young, why didn't they wait out a few more years. He is all hype etc. etc.

I wonder how TFS would have received the first collections of the likes of Mcqueen who pretty much did a lot of hype clothes in his first collections and with a lot of vulgarity. I don't think he even presented his immaculate tailoring in his first collection.

Except Lee McQueen was a skilled GENIUS, trained at Savile Row and had an amazing sense of draping/tailoring. He had a clear well executed vision (since his first collections).

Can we really same the same about CDV ? ( I don't bother writing his full name, in two years people won't care about him anyway).
His clothes look cheap, poorly thought, poorly made.
No taste, awful sketching skills (his drawings look like doodles). Just ripping Castelbajac color palette.

Lee McQueen didn't rely on a cute face and being born in a rich family to make it.
He was just purely talented. He had stories to tell.

That KID, not.

 

[perhydrol]

^^Basically the problem with this Charles guy is that he had his debut three weeks ago and I don't think he had ever worked in a team before the appointment. It actually takes some time to understand how a brand works internally and it just can't be done when you work alone (and on couture) like Charles. That's why Rochas should have waited before appointing this... nepo-designer. Don't you feel weird reading about a guy who becomes a creative director without any experience?

BTW don't forget that McQueen was working for Romeo Gigli before setting up his own brand, let alone going to Givenchy.

 

[Lola701]

Except Lee McQueen was a skilled GENIUS, trained at Savile Row and had an amazing sense of draping/tailoring. He had a clear well executed vision (since his first collections).

Can we really same the same about CDV ? ( I don't bother writing his full name, in two years people won't care about him anyway).
His clothes look cheap, poorly thought, poorly made.
No taste, awful sketching skills (his drawings look like doodles). Just ripping Castelbajac color palette.

Lee McQueen didn't rely on a cute face and being born in a rich family to make it.
He was just purely talented. He had stories to tell.

That KID, not.

History did Lee justice but all those things weren’t necessarly obvious at the beginning. Yes he had a raw talent but all of that was hidden behind gimmicks, shock tactics...

Even his debut collection for Givenchy was..Underwhelming.
Being confronted to a Couture atelier, being humbled by the Couture Atelier actually made him a better designer and transformed him into the genius he became...

I’m not trying in any way to compare Charles de VM to McQueen but in 1997, him taking Givenchy wasn’t necessary seen as the most clever decision of Bernard Arnault.
Arnault gave Dior to Galliano despite the fact that Gaultier wanted the position. Gaultier was proposed Givenchy but saw it as an « insult » and decided to launch his Couture...

But this is only Rochas. I don’t think any other brand had that many rebirths, relaunches. Clearly the owners don’t know what to do and are looking for something « buzz worthy ».

‘The sadness of our era is that « Buzz » designers today lacks substance.
There’s not even reasons to be mad about this appointment...It’s like being the creative director of Guy Laroche. Who cares in 2021?

 

[jeanclaude]

TFS: We want new and fresh designers, the designers are just playing musical chairs.
Also TFS: Why him?? He is too young, why didn't they wait out a few more years. He is all hype etc. etc.

I wonder how TFS would have received the first collections of the likes of Mcqueen who pretty much did a lot of hype clothes in his first collections and with a lot of vulgarity. I don't think he even presented his immaculate tailoring in his first collection.

McQueen early work had personality. His clothes didn´t remember of other designers. And he was the first one to add "macabre" into the fashion vocabulary.

This Charles de Vilmorin (sounds aristocratic, I presume that must be the reason of his rise to "stardom") has not personality at all. His first collection is a strange mixture between Kansai Yamamoto and J.C. de Castelbajac.

 

[Lola701]

McQueen early work had personality. His clothes didn´t remember of other designers. And he was the first one to add "macabre" into the fashion vocabulary.

This Charles de Vilmorin (sounds aristocratic, I presume that must be the reason of his rise to "stardom") has not personality at all. His first collection is a strange mixture between Kansai Yamamoto and J.C. de Castelbajac.

Despite not being a fan of his work, I think sometimes a house like that can help a designer to reveal himself. We are already expecting the worst but maybe he can make a beautiful dress...
Not everybody is like Alexander Wang or Virgil Abloh. He can elevate himself or his skills...

 

[GERGIN]

I think a lot of members think our standards are extremely high (and in some cases that is true). But, the circumstances are much different here, I don't need to repeat what @IloveDiorHomme @perhydrol @Lola701 or @jeanclaude have already said brilliantly about the situation regarding Charles de Vilmorin. It's obviously his social media influence that garnered him this position that he is clearly not ready for, and should spend more time working in a team at a brand where he can grow and refine his clothing identity.

But whatever, the standards of these brands now are so low they'll happily take a celebrity figure just for the sake of easy cash flow...I will feel bad for Charles though only because I know he will not be successful in his title and this will likely affect his reputation at such a young age...

 

[jeanclaude]

Despite not being a fan of his work, I think sometimes a house like that can help a designer to reveal himself. We are already expecting the worst but maybe he can make a beautiful dress...
Not everybody is like Alexander Wang or Virgil Abloh. He can elevate himself or his skills...

I am very skeptical...we´ll have to wait and check his debut collection...

 

[THD96]

I'll wait until I see the clothes to make any judgment. I don't have high expectations for Rochas so I can't be dissapoint. I just hope that he will redefine his taste for the house.

He have connection and he using it, that's fine that's life. If I'm not mistake connection with Carine is one of the reason help Riccardo got the Givenchy gig. Nepotism is always in fashion tbh. It's the reason why we have Miuccia, because there is no way they will give a woman with no fashion background to start a fashion house. All she have was her passion, her taste, her vision for the house and a really good design team. And I read that people weren't too kind with her when she first started but looks at her now.

In the end it's just Rochas, if an American socialite can design at Chloé then so can he.

 

[YohjiAddict]

For those that asked his great-aunt was a socialité and heiress, the de Vilmorin family had owned a seed company since the days of Louis XV and that's where she inherited her great fortune from.

Just noticed she's quoted in the short biography of Jeanne Lanvin in the Lanvin official website...

His great-aunt was the writer Louise Lévêque de Vilmorin, a man-killer and writer of some renown (penning the famous novella Madame de that became a movie by Max Ophüls) whose conquests included Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and Orson Welles.

Vogue.com

 

[Lola701]

^^
Givenchy and the De Castellane also came from illustrious background. The same for De La Fressange...

I'll wait until I see the clothes to make any judgment. I don't have high expectations for Rochas so I can't be dissapoint. I just hope that he will redefine his taste for the house.

He have connection and he using it, that's fine that's life. If I'm not mistake connection with Carine is one of the reason help Riccardo got the Givenchy gig. Nepotism is always in fashion tbh. It's the reason why we have Miuccia, because there is no way they will give a woman with no fashion background to start a fashion house. All she have was her passion, her taste, her vision for the house and a really good design team. And I read that people weren't too kind with her when she first started but looks at her now.

In the end it's just Rochas, if an American socialite can design at Chloé then so can he.

I don’t know why people expect social justice from an industry build on nepotism...
I mean come on!
The examples of nepotism in the industry are long beyond any reason.

And as you said, we are ok with Nepotism when it’s people we love.

I don’t get why nepotism is an issue for people who are aware of the industry and who knows about the industry.
Margiela got the Hermès job because he was friend with the Daughter of the owner of Hermès. He never applied for the job! Carine Roitfeld became an iconic EIC despite the fact that she never run a magazine before (Alt was the real experienced person)...
The fashion industry is a microcosm after all (even if celebrities forcing their children’s career on us is sometimes annoying).

 

[badgalcrush]

Castelbajac Wannabe he won't last even If I'm happy to see a young french designer for a French maison

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I think a lot of members think our standards are extremely high (and in some cases that is true). But, the circumstances are much different here, I don't need to repeat what @IloveDiorHomme @perhydrol @Lola701 or @jeanclaude have already said brilliantly about the situation regarding Charles de Vilmorin. It's obviously his social media influence that garnered him this position that he is clearly not ready for, and should spend more time working in a team at a brand where he can grow and refine his clothing identity.

But whatever, the standards of these brands now are so low they'll happily take a celebrity figure just for the sake of easy cash flow...I will feel bad for Charles though only because I know he will not be successful in his title and this will likely affect his reputation at such a young age...

15 years ago people were all about Maxime Simoens.
The new "Yves Saint Laurent" they said.
Where is he now ?
Editors constantly need a new flavour of the month.
Once the month has passed, it's over.

I wouldn't mind him being appointed creative director of a brand he if knew about ateliers, developments, productions, fittings, techniques. It needs a few years at least to master those.
We had Linsday Lohan at Ungaro.
Now we have CDV at Rochas.

Stitching (badly) 5 quilted-patchwork bomber jackets is not enough to become a creative director.
Or maybe it is in 2021 if you have many followers ?

Sad times.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

handmade jacket

noblesseetroyautes.com

Kansai did it way before....

 

[bc collector]

Or maybe it is in 2021 if you have many followers ?

Hardly. I mean, 50K is many but not that many to justify his appointment.

 

[GERGIN]

Hardly. I mean, 50K is many but not that many to justify his appointment.

You sure about that?