Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Flashbang]

Genny
Out: Gabriele Colangelo
In: ?

After two years at Genny, Gabriele Colangelo ends its collaboration with the fashion house. A joint decision that ends with the Fall-Winter 2013/14 presented last February during Milan Fashion Week.

In September 2011, Gabriele Colangelo has signed his first collection for Genny for the Spring-Summer 2012 – which marked the rebirth of the Made in Italy Made in Italy, bringing the catwalk style caught and unpublished, with a great attention to shapes, fabrics and colors, in full respect of the brand tradition and history.

luukmagazine.com

 

[tatouejeremie]

Meanwhile, eco-friendly label Cangiari tapped Paulo Melim Andersson as creative director. Andersson, who had the same position at Chloé until March 2008, will make his debut at Cangiari with the spring 2014 collection.

“This brand creates excellence through the valorization of craftsmanship,” said Melim Andersson. “My goal is to combine the language of contemporary design with the know-how of the local tradition in a sophisticated yet wearable product targeted to customers who love exclusivity but consider ethic aspects.”

wwd.com

happy to see paulo melim andersson in a creative director role again!

 

[StoneSkipper]

God yes!

 

[Marc10]

Awesome to see Paulo working again! Chloé should've never let him go.

 

[mistress_f]

Christian Lacroix -> Elsa Schiaparelli Haute Couture

 

[Pricciao]

I'm not sure if we can call it that way, it's more like a special project for now.

 

[Flashbang]

Issa London
Out: Daniella Helayel
In: Blue Farrier

DANIELLA HELAYEL has left Issa London. The designer - who founded the label - will be succeeded by Blue Farrier, who has previously worked at Chloé, Stella McCartney and Anya Hindmarch.

While an official announcement is expected from the label later today, it's reported that Helayel's decision to leave was by mutual agreement - and that she has plans to pursue other projects, starting later this year. According to industry experts, she had been unhappy for some time and her departure did not come as a surprise.

"The time has come for me to move on to focus on my art, travel and other interests," she told WWD. "Creating Issa has been one of the most rewarding things in my life. I may be leaving, but the Issa girl will live forever in my heart."

Issa London is renowned for its flattering dresses, tropical prints and holiday-ready attire, and found itself in the global media spotlight in 2011, when a then Kate Middleton announced her engagement to Prince William wearing a royal blue dress from the label. Helayel's decision to leave comes at a particularly busy time for the brand, which recently unveiled collaborations with Banana Republic and The Outnet, alongside plans to open its first standalone store in Japan.

"I am pleased to welcome Blue Farrier as the new creative director of Issa at such an exciting time," said Angeline Ypma, Issa London CEO. "Her vision and passion will be vital as we expand into new categories and markets and continue the development of Issa into a truly global lifestyle brand."

vogue.co.uk

I'm so excited because Blue was one of the person who designed the great Chloe Fall 06 collection

 

[Egoiste]

Rochas
Out: Marco Zanini
In: Alessandro Dell’Acqua

It’s all change at French fashion house Rochas. The label has just announced that its creative director, Marco Zanini, has left and will be replaced by Alessandro Dell’Acqua.

It seems that, after five years working together the decision to part ways was mutual - and, if rumours are to be believed, Zanini has a new job lined up already. ‘As an iconic French maison, Rochas has been an endless source of inspiration for me,’ he says. ‘I learned a lot over the past five years and I feel fortunate to have been part of such a wonderful adventure.’ He unveiled his final collection for the label in Paris yesterday.

The news of Dell’Acqua’s appointment comes just a week after he stepped down from his role at Les Copains. The team at Rochas say that he was an easy choice for the job thanks to his ‘unique vision and a sense of elegance’, and he will present his first collection for the label in February 2014.

elleuk.com

Soooooo freakin happy for Alessandro ! He has been doing amazing job at No.21 !

 

[Marc10]

This is so bittersweet for me. I'm big fan of Alessandro but at the same a massive fan of Marco's work at Rochas. I guess this is the cue for the Schiaparelli rumors?

 

[liberty33r1b]

Is Marc Jacobs about to leave Louis Vuitton?
According to new reports, Marc Jacobs may be about to wave goodbye to Louis Vuitton, the fashion house he has helmed since 1997.
BY BIBBY SOWRAY | 26 SEPTEMBER 2013

Will the Louis Vuitton spring/summer2014 show next Wednesday (October 2) be creative director Marc Jacobs's swan song? Perhaps so, if reports surfacing today are to be believed.
Reuters quote an industry source as saying that the designer's contract with the luxury French fashion house "may not be renewed" when it expires next month. Meanwhile, French magazine Challenges has gone one step further and claimed his departure has already been "approved internally".
Similar rumours circulated back in June, when it was reported that Jacobs and his business partner Robert Duffy were in talks regarding the non-renewal. If true, Jacobs would be able to dedicate his time fully to his two eponymous brands, Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs.
Nicholas Ghesquière, former creative director of Kering-owned label Balenciaga, is tipped as his successor.
Ghesquière, who left Balenciaga in November 2012, is said to be close friends with Delphine Arnault, daughter of LVMH owner Bernard Arnault and second-in-command at Louis Vuitton.
Jacobs joined Louis Vuitton in 1997, introducing the brand's first-ever ready-to-wear line, as well as popular collaborations with artists such as Stephen Sprouse and Richard Prince.
"Marc Jacbos has done fantastic work at Vuitton but I think that today we need to reframe the leather goods and fashion proposition which has until now mainly been focused on the bags," a luxury goods expert told Reuters.

telegraph.co.uk

 

[ultramarine]

Marc Jacobs has made fashion history with LV. But its time to go.

Id love to see what Ghesquiere would do for LV, but isnt accesories their bread and butter? Who can replace him?

 

[Not Plain Jane]

What's with the musical chairs/houses? Why are designers always switching houses lately? It's confusing to say the least! I don't understand. What is the root of this and when did it really kick into such high gear? Now it seems like there is one, two, or three "announcements" every fashion week. What a whirligig!

 

[Selfportraitgrl]

Not sure if this is the best place to put this, but it seemed fitting to me.

Rumor: Kanye Hires Christophe Decarnin for Paris Comeback

BY CHARLOTTE COWLES
9/27/13 at 9:33 AM

Kanye West is said to be plotting his label's return to Paris Fashion Week, according to an unattributed report in British Vogue. Far more surprising is a new rumor that he has recruited Christophe Decarnin, formerly of Balmain, to be his new head designer. This marks the first time Decarnin's name has surfaced in the media since he left Balmain in 2011 after suffering from an unnamed illness that caused him to miss his own show. Kanye has previously been connected to advisers like Diesel's Nicola Formichetti and British designer Louise Goldin.

Kanye has alluded to his catwalk return before, mentioning in July that he had set up a design studio in Milan, so a comeback of sorts was to be expected. And if Decarnin really is involved, that's rather sweet; both he and Kanye would get their second chances together. But the collection can't be in the works yet — Kanye's been far too busy tweeting at Jimmy Kimmel.

nymag

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

I love Marc Jacobs at LV (so many iconice collection!), but I honestly feel like his tenure at the house is pretty much done. That would allow him to fully put all his energy back in his own label. Nicolas at Vuitton pretty much sounds awesome.

As for Dell'Aqua at Rochas, YASSS!!!

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

...and it's official: Marc's leaving LV.
http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/des...us-on-ipo-7206602?src=nl/newsAlert/20131002-1

 

[blackcherrified]

Hence the "Best of MJ @ LV" on the runway today.

 

[LagerfeldBoy]

Hence the "Best of MJ @ LV" on the runway today.

yup.

 

[Nymphaea]

It's a pity MJ is leaving LV, but I'm excited by what a new designer is going to show us.

 

[Marc10]

Mugler

In: David Koma

DAVID KOMA is Mugler's new artistic director. The London-based designer - who starts his new role in January - will unveil his first collection for the brand in June with pre, before making his catwalk debut in September during Paris Fashion Week.

"We want to write a new page for Mugler, putting it back on the map in the fashion business," said Virginie Courtin-Clarins, director of development, marketing and communications at Mugler Fashion. "We have the potential to modernise it and I think the potential is huge."

Koma replaces Nicola Formichetti, who left the French fashion house in April to join Diesel as artistic director. The designer's arrival marks the first stage of rebranding for Mugler, with a renewed focus on women's ready-to-wear.Courtin-Clarins said that Koma's feminine body-con signature is "in the same line as the Mugler DNA, yet he has his own modern and unique vision of a woman".

"We agreed that we wanted a real couturier," Courtin-Clarins told WWD. "We feel we need to focus on the product, and that's why we're starting with the pre-collection."

"I am deeply honored to take up the role of artistic director at Mugler - a house for which I have the utmost admiration and respect," Koma said. "For me, Mugler is the most extraordinary fashion house with an undeniably audacious heritage."

vogue.co.uk

 

[Psylocke]

^Oh, now that's interesting! He seems like a good choice, excited to see what he can do for the house!