Dior Homme F/W 06.07 Paris

[Morningstar]

I understand how this show was an important step for hedi, in order to shut down the trickle down criticism and probably pressures from above, but i also can't help but being dissapointed as a DH client. Yes i admire the beauty of it all, but nothing here seems affordably wearable, maybe that is the point as noted above. the return to form is sure to enthuse the dior purists, but i guess i must be the only one who really liked the whole glam/goth/indie/pop/ska whatever you wanna call it influence. And no, it is NOT a trend to me, its a culture, a lifestyle. On the other hand this whole victorian/dandy/amish/torrero thing aren't really inspirations i can relate to. Also dior purists seem to sum up hedi's past collections into just T's and jeans. come on now there's been much more than that, fabulous jackets, coats, sweaters and the new classic accesories such as skinny ties, braces and high heel boots. in contrast those crazy bows, wide pants, satin capes... i wouldnt wear if they were given to me lol.
What i do think in the end, is that this show was meant as a shocker, a response to those that said hedi was "messy". I personally preffer the underground chic,minimal, rebel attitude, than the experimental haute couture approach, but i understand its necessity. In the end were talking fashion, not a culture or religion...things are simply meant to be torn apart and reconstructed. i think i'll be shopping on ebay next year..

I think when people are referring to the rocker/hipster/indie/etc influences as a trend they're referring to as a trend ammongst Hedi. You have to consider the fact that that look/style only comprises 4 collections of Dior Homme.

I'm with the posters who feel these collections were really tee/jean collections. Just look at the current stock on Luisaviaroma. It seemed almost every exit down the runway for the past seasons have included jeans. Also, I can't think of any really innovative pieces from those past 4 collections (maybe the chiffon shirts with bows from a/w 05 06?). Most of the clothes from that collection seemed to be heavily vintage inspired. I'm not saying I didn't enjoy these collections, but I don't feel they really fit with what aesthetic Hedi had started at YSL and carried over to Dior.

I really hope those Dior Homme braces aren't considered collectors items, you can get the samething from other places for far less. I personally think anyone who buys the Dior ones is a supreme fashion victim and I can only hope that if I ever have my own label I can get away with such ridiculousness

 

[louis]

I agree with you.

In a couple of seasons' time, Kris Van Assche will achieve the stardom Slimane's got now. Also, McQueen's really come out of his shell as regards menswear. I thought his a/w collection was marvellous. Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum and Ennio Capasa for Costume National deserve far more praise than they're getting too.

Do you think Arnault will fire Slimane anytime soon? A new head of designs would be interesting ... as long as it's not Raf Simons with those awful shapeless coats. Go for Ennio Capasa instead!

 

[fashionken]

The DIOR HOMME site added the whole video for AUTOMNE/ HIVER 2006/2007: it really gives NEW life to the collection and the music is breathtaking..... Mr. Slimane DID IT again this time....

You really think so? I thought that song was rather dull. I expected something strong and melodic with a rock 'n' roll twist.

 

[fashionken]

I think when people are referring to the rocker/hipster/indie/etc influences as a trend they're referring to as a trend ammongst Hedi. You have to consider the fact that that look/style only comprises 4 collections of Dior Homme.

I'm with the posters who feel these collections were really tee/jean collections. Just look at the current stock on Luisaviaroma. It seemed almost every exit down the runway for the past seasons have included jeans. Also, I can't think of any really innovative pieces from those past 4 collections (maybe the chiffon shirts with bows from a/w 05 06?). Most of the clothes from that collection seemed to be heavily vintage inspired. I'm not saying I didn't enjoy these collections, but I don't feel they really fit with what aesthetic Hedi had started at YSL and carried over to Dior.

I really hope those Dior Homme braces aren't considered collectors items, you can get the samething from other places for far less. I personally think anyone who buys the Dior ones is a supreme fashion victim and I can only hope that if I ever have my own label I can get away with such ridiculousness

I just like them because they're so thin. But if you know somewhere I can get something that looks like them, I'd like to know where?

 

[fashionken]

Please clarify.

 

[louis]

You really think so? I thought that song was rather dull. I expected something strong and melodic with a rock 'n' roll twist.

Well, I don't know what kind of music you're into but I liked this one even considering that I LOVED last year Razorlight effort.....

 

[fashionken]

I liked the Razorlight song too, mostly because of the lyrics.

I'm into metal.

 

[Furio]

Personnaly i find this collection has a lack of inspiration. Nothing is really creative, no innovations somme godd stuff for sure but nothing stunning.
Really no inspiration or innovation so far.
I've notice that lasts seasons, they has always be 2 "master pieces" in the catwalk.
AW05 got the fireworks jacket and the white short jacket with the multicolored flowers on it.
SS06 has the uk-army-like-i-cant-remember-the-name red and gold jacket and
SS05 has the gold kangaroo leather jacket and the pink leather jacket.
AW06 the two master piece seems to be the fox fur which will be around 4000 usd and the long dracula-like cloak. Two unwearable expensive pieces.
Everybody talk about the need of DH to make money via Tshirt or jeans, i dont know how they gonna do this with this collection.
Maybe is the collection in Showroom really different, with a few tshirt, sweatshirt sneakers. SS06 had short jeans, and no sneakers on the catwalk.
The collection has 12 different sneakers and all jeans are extra long so ...
May be a design like the eagle on AW05 which wasnt on the catwalk but was on 10 different items would appear if you know what i mean.
The catwalk show was ok but not great. I think AW05 was a very better show in term of aesthetic because of the dancing extralong scarf and the gold boots effect. All DH big fans will be shocked, but my favourites collection will still be SS05 and AW05 maybe because i can wear them.( shame on me! im 33 in jeans and 50 in jacket ! bhooo!! damned sportman!).
I hate luster, solitaire was nice and SS06 is pure crap for me.
I really hope HS will stop with dior and go make his own brand to show what i can do because IMO Prorsum, Viktor & Rolf, KVA and Costume National are beating him up.
Sorry if im not comprehensive my english in the morning is a pure CR4P!

 

[fashionken]

SS06 has the uk-army-like-i-cant-remember-the-name red

The husar jacket.

And I totally agree about Costume National. Ennio Capasa is a genius.

 

[MattS]

The husar jacket.

And I totally agree about Costume National. Ennio Capasa is a genius.

Another positive for Capasa! I agree, I was blown away too. I'm not sure if his collections have transferred well to stores though, I've always been impressed with the shows and then dissapointed by what's in the boutiques. Nothing seems to fit right even with alterations for me. What do you think?

 

[fashionken]

I have several pairs of Capasa trousers but that's it. I agree his shirts and jumpers feel a bit large but I guess that's because we've been spoiled by Slimane. I'm definitely getting a three-piece suit next winter, just don't know if I can afford a Costume National. Actually, J. Lindeberg and Zara make really cool three-piece suits a la Capasa and they're ridiculously cheap.

 

[RobbertJan]

I just like them because they're so thin. But if you know somewhere I can get something that looks like them, I'd like to know where?

https://secure-checkout68.monstercommerce.com/2688056441/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=186

and i really like the costume national collection to!B) the whole look of it was inspirering, now just have to hope i can get some pieces!

 

[faust]

NYU?

No, the New School Graduate Center

 

[Magnum]

first post..

as i was reading some of the feedback on this thread..i wasn't quite sure if most of you, us, whomever is a fan of dior homme..had stopped to see past the fabrics, and cuts, or if it was 'ready-to-wear' enough, to actually see the symbolisim hedi was giving to us, in the show (as a whole). Its dark..its quiet, but yet it is speaking very loud if you just stop to listen.

yes, the shape did rewind to previous collections...and as far as i can tell that doesnt seem to be that big of a shock to fans of hedis work, because we've seen wide trousers before. But like a tFS member had mentioned..and i dont quote..but it was something about just now finding dior homme in a store, and really taking a like to it; the rocker tee's, the musical influences, the trend. But that isnt dior homme. that was hedi drawing influence from his personal hobbies/life..but post "hedis rocker phase' when the name dior homme came to mind, it most certainly did not bring images of t-shirts, and thrift store chic.

but people grew with that, and became comfortable with it...boys, thought they could rack up on thrift store waistcoats, tight jeans, tanks, throw on a yard of material as a scarf. and bam, "i'm luxorious. because its dior homme"

so (i hope) and this is just my personal opinion. this show was the end of that...that phase. dior is now what it was always ment to be. risky, exclusive, and hard to pull off. its not for everyone...the t-shirts, the jeans, it was all too easy. its back to structure, detail & delicate roughness....hedi slimane.

i think for the (hedi slimane boy/man/muse)...the rock show has ended. it almost gives you that sense of renewal?..as if- all the old clothes were burning in the back, and not just the clothes..the attitude, the over-confident dior boy, and just the messyness. i mean, where could he have gone after ss06?..

overall- the attitude and asthetic of dior homme...is, a lifestyle. you're a dior boy/man..or not. i wonder, and hope, that this will seperate those who can relate to this collection & brand, from those who just like the trend (i mean, c'mon lindsay lohan was spotted wearing 'the end' tee at disneyland ) And as far as those of you hating the skinny-skeletal boys of "this" collection. wake-up..that body figure has been the muse for quite some time now. Yes, i agree on the re-using of models...blah, but come on people. thin is dior. buff is..eh, well you get the point...

its like the last breath of air/the last drum beat, time to shape up and clean up. (in logic terms) time to return to what is dior. agreed?

Note* This is my personal opinion, however feedback would be really nice..ofcourse

-gerald.

One of few good non-pretentious posts, unlike some quasi-intellectual-philosophical-bash Hedi a little -question his involvement- blabla posts I've seen..
Although IMHO the point about thrift-store is just slightly exaggerated, I think you are spot on and is saying pretty much what's on my mind

I just find the superformal wear exciting for once. We've seen the casual formal wear a million times now. Even SS/06. Why can't we appreciate REAL formal clothes for once. This is after all the chance of a lifetime to get a white-tie tailcoat with Dior tailoring, which can last, exactly, a lifetime (Just dont get fat). It's just stupid to even begin to think "But I can't wear the tailcoat with my orange overdyes" , oh and therefore I question Hedi's involvement in this and the... Give me a break..

This ain't formal with a twist, it's not Follow-me, it ain't Strip (on a lesser degree) it is the real thing, REAL formal, also in the traditional sense, you'll see that the sleeves on the jackets also have the "correct" length now so you can see the cuffs of the shirt or what's underneath. The only "twist" is the bows, and of course the "hidden" things like the cut and tailoring. (The things that matters, no?)

And after all the superformal look is just the theme of the collection. The tailcoat is also just a few looks apart from that finale. True, some Dracula capes, fur is also there, some over-the-top other things as well. You should be happy for the tailcoats and morningcoats..it can't get any more formal than this, so in a way this is starting from the top and then it will trickle down ..

If you have a brain you'll find something wearable here, nuff said.

 

[fashionken]

https://secure-checkout68.monstercommerce.com/2688056441/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=186

and i really like the costume national collection to!B) the whole look of it was inspirering, now just have to hope i can get some pieces!

thanks. their international s/h fee is ridiculously high though... $75...

 

[Zazie]

first post..

....And as far as those of you hating the skinny-skeletal boys of "this" collection. wake-up..that body figure has been the muse for quite some time now. Yes, i agree on the re-using of models...blah, but come on people. thin is dior. buff is..eh, well you get the point...


-gerald.

There's rail-thin, which has been DH's model type from his earlier shows and most waif-ish models, and then there's 16 inch waist on a 6 ft model, that's skeletal.

 

[Magnum]

After seeing the video, I think the formal look is even easier to pull off. I can almost Imagine myself going clubbing with that tailcoat, or maybe not .. but at least some of that rebel/youth feeling is kept, making it more versatile than you'd think, it's no longer just for ballroom and charity events, but work at a, say.. a stylish birthday party or something, anyways I think it's really, really sharp I like this collection MORE and MORE, it's amazing!

 

[fashionken]

I believe you're refering to this look...

(from wgsn.com)

I'm pretty sure that cumberbund has some kind of corset/cincher effect, I seriously doubt this model is anorectic.

However, it looks ridiculous and woman-like. Men aren't supposed to be curvy. Maybe Monsieur Slimane is a bit too hung up on a certain "fashion icon"...

(from Dita.net)

 

[Fade to Black]

It's just stupid to even begin to think "But I can't wear the tailcoat with my orange overdyes" , oh and therefore I question Hedi's involvement in this and the... Give me a break..

um, that wasn't my point. At ALL. I'd argue further but this is going to be never ending...but seriously, if you think I was questioning Hedi's involvement with this because I can't wear those tailcoats with a pair of jeans, then you're an idiot and wasn't even reading my post.

 

[Fade to Black]

I question Hedi's actual involvement in this collection...actually the past several collections. I feel like he's more of a stylist/marketing guy at this point...like S/S 06 for example? He was goin through his London phase back then so he probably looked at some pics of rock stars and told the team "make something based off this" and that's it. I wouldn't be surprised if something similar to that process produced this collection...he sensed the backlash, just told the good ol' team, "Hey i need a return to dressing up and formality, work off that"

I mean, look at how much the Dior landscape has changed over these years, I seriously doubt it's his vision at the core of all this. I'm probably gonna receive some backlash for this comment, but whatever...it's what I believe.

It sounds like I'm bashing him as a designer but that's not the case, I admire the clothes the label has produced...but it seems like the hype behind Hedi Slimane, especially in the press and what not, has served as an extremely effective exercise in marketing that has lured many people to blindly follow the Dior machine...a lot of people say "oh it's the clothes if Hedi wasn't behind it i'd still like it" but at this point it seems like the emphasis on "Hedi's golden touch," especially in the media, is the reason for many people's devotion and undying loyalty. Looking at it now after the hype has died down, yes it's a solid stage collection, but hardly the best of this week...more of an exercise in good styling, whereas Yohji and Raf's collections had serious innovation and creativity in design.

THAT was my original post on the subject...you can delude yourself and attack me further, you're just proving my point in the last paragraph. I'm not responding to this any further.