Dior Homme F/W 06.07 Paris

[fashionistasista]

I believe you're refering to this look...

(from wgsn.com)

I'm pretty sure that cumberbund has some kind of corset/cincher effect, I seriously doubt this model is anorectic.

However, it looks ridiculous and woman-like. Men aren't supposed to be curvy. Maybe Monsieur Slimane is a bit too hung up on a certain "fashion icon"...

(from Dita.net)

i think this is just part of slimanes design profile - he goes for asexual. he quotes in a AUS vogue recently that he likes to experiment with looks that appeal to both a man and a woman and his ideal is a look that can be worn by both.

 

[KKnardi]

insider's news direct from showroom:
Hedi Slimane has just renewed his contract with DH, and will surely be having new projects coming out, and they are all in his mind. Regarding this season's change, he just wanna let people know that he's still capable to keep the ideas of making "couture for men", and bring it to life.
To those who don't like the evening look, there will be lots of tees, sneakers and jeans, plus, bags are gonna be major and well-made. We'll see if your buyers from your city be capable to choose the things that you want....BTW, eveybody like the song very much, myself included.

i knew it:
hedi is sneaking around on this thread, i'm sure.

 

[JuiceMajor]

Interesting facts there - Hedi and Raf used to be lovers. How ironic!

And wonderful news about Hedi staying. I was so convince that he is leaving especially listening to the show song lyrics.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Interesting facts there - Hedi and Raf used to be lovers. How ironic!

And wonderful news about Hedi staying. I was so convince that he is leaving especially listening to the show song lyrics.

I heard that before too but thought it was just a rumour. I heard Raf was straight.

 

[Furio]

Yes for info, in an interview for Vogue Homme french magazine, Raf Simons said he was straight and that the only others straight designers was Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger .....

 

[Colette_B]

and also, raf dated veronique branquinho...

this is kinda funny:

"With people he likes, he can quickly establish an intimacy that confuses both sexes. An American writer I know in Paris, a married man, insisted that Simons was gay on the basis of a firm hug that Simons had once given him after a show, while a woman who has known him many years said with an assured smile, when I returned from Antwerp in May, ''He's complicated, isn't he?'' I don't know (edit:the rest) A guy who will go to the beach with only a bag of Doritos and a bottle of Coke can't be that complicated. "

 

[chicgarcon]

a/w song mp3

..If anyone is interested in having the full version of 'these grey days' as used in the show..just msg meeeee

that is, if you havnt snatched it up already, hah.

 

[TheEnd]

Someone's pissed aren't they? Great that this site gets people so worked up, esp when it comes to Hedi / DH. Look, I don't profess to be the be all and end all authority on DH but I love the label, am familiar with all the past collections and love Hedi. But I'm disappointed with this collection, no doubt about it.

To clarify…

- Of course a 'collection' by its very nature needs to look cohesive - and this super formal one does. I stand by my point that I'd have liked to see more variety though. Doubtless they will arrive in store but I think the show could have benefitted from less dressy suits etc and still looked like part of the collection. I've re-looked at the looks and stand by my opinion
- A lot of people in this thread are wondering how and when they'd wear pieces from show, not just me. Apart from the opera, I'm not sure where I'd wear a whole outfit. Take your point that, when the clothes are in-store, we'll all be able to wear items with less formal, every day wear. Like Chinor1z says though, hard to see how we'd do this from the show alone
- I only called the SS06 Docherty season disastrous. I absolutely love every other DH collection Hedi has done, esp the winter collections for 04 and 05. I'm disappointed because I personally don't like this more formal collection as much and, from the show, I don't see the accessories and more wearable items that the other DH collections have done so brilliantly well
- I said in my post that Hedi's previous collections have done a brilliant job of pushing the boundaries and offering men's clothes with more quirks and variety than other men's labels. What I don't see is the same variety in this show so in that respect I do find it less inspired. Again, that's my opinion and it's fine for others to differ
- I do wear suits more than three times a year, I wear them every week. What I said was that I'd only wear a uber-formal suit such as those shown in the collection about three times a year to swanky parties. I'd totally agree this collection is designed for people who have important parties and special occasions because its uber-formal. I find this fairly restricting, esp after the previous collections. Don't doubt stores will have a bigger selection for us to choose from though
- I'm lucky enough to already own a couple of DH suits. Great thing about the ones I have are that they're smart enough for weddings etc but I can dress them down and wear the blazers with jeans. I don't wear clothes to 'out do' other people, I wear clothes because I like them and they suit me. I think with two DH suits to my name are enough for now but you never know. Thanks for the financial advice anyway.

Maybe I should have been more thorough in my original posting. Or maybe you should have read it more carefully.

where to start, where to start...

lets begin with the numerous contradictions you just posted, and clearly a lack of research/knowledge of dior homme let alone hedi slimane.

unoriginal and identical you say?..i suggest you re-look at those pieces in detail view before you make such a statement.

and clearly this was a formal collection..COLLECTION..so yes, in collections most times looks do share similarities

but there was a wide variety of pieces shown!...and as somone said (and i think he even posted photos to give examples) the whole looks themselves may not be wearable on the street, but the pieces matched with something less "formal/elegant" could easily be pulled off, by somone who usually can pull off a dior homme ensemble

but im confused because you called his previous seasons "disasterous" but then you say you can only see yourself buying a shirt from this collection. well, thats funny..because we all know the last few seasons had tons of shirts to choose from, and all the little "accesories" you so badly desire. so it makes me think..I guess this look/season is going to be a bit more tricky to copy huh?

And as far as womenswear designers doing it "better" than mens. I dont even want to comment on that, because it makes me so irritated to hear such a thing..especially here on the forum. but i guess you're a bit pre-mature
to all this because clearly menswear has restrictions. we cant possibly wear as much as a female, or have as much variety as them. But if there is one designer who is known for trying to change that and push the bounderies a bit more its HEDI SLIMANE! ..the one person you're directing that ignorant comment to...

i dont understand how you can use solitaire as a reference, but yet find nothing in this collection for you to "wear"...most boys/men who spend thousands of $ on suits made my amazing designers,dont only wear them 3 times a year...like a tFS leader said, this collection is for people who actually have important parties and social occasions to attend to. on a normal basis.

And since you only wear a suit 3 times a year..I suggest saving your money, and just go with the wedding rental, instead of trying to out do the other guest.

pointless. just like your post.

 

[chicgarcon]

attn: TheEnd

I've got mixed feelings about collection.
A return to tailoring and YSL-esque 'Le Smoking' was a smart move but I was really disappointed to see what I think is a formulaic and unispired collection. Every 'look' is almost identical. Imagine flicking through the look book - what's different from one page to the next? How many variations of a black suit should you show on the runway, how many black suits can a guy own?
Hedi presented a look for one occassion only - the opera or some ludicrously fancy event. What I liked about previous DH collections, which women's wear designers always do better than men's, is that there was a variety of sharply tailored suits and evening wear along with jeans, knitwear and more every-day wearable pieces. I think there's a role for both of these in both a show and a collection. After all, a designer should be able to cater for different occassions and events. I think the past two DH winter collections did this really well. Would have been great to see some new accessories too. Past collections did this really well - belts, armwarmers etc.
That said, I don't think a show consisting entirely of evening suits and white shirts would be a problem if each look was more original or inspired - lapels, embroidery, trimmings, more interesting cuts could all have been tampered with. Solitaire has been mentioned a few times in this thread and Hedi really should thought back to his state of mind then when putting this collection together. Not to rehash ideas but to have fun (despite his melancholy mood) designing clothes that were different and daring.
Things I particilarly don't like about the new collections are the baggy trousers, the cardigan everyone is raving about (it looks like Karl Lagerfeld for H&M), the jeans (which just cheap and tacky like a D&G 80's reject) and the
cropped jackets though - Hedi should have been left well alone after the disasterous summer collection.
To sum up, I'm disappointed because I don't see anything I'd wear bar a shirt and one suit which I'd only have the opportunity to wear about three times a year. I am relieved he left rock behind though. I love the skinny jeans, leather bombers but have them and don't need any more. He totally exhausted rock in the Doherty disaster that was the summer collection

-No sir... i think YOU need to re-read what you wrote. & I agree when you say "Maybe I should have been more thorough in my original posting"

I said in my post that Hedi's previous collections have done a brilliant job of pushing the boundaries and offering men's clothes with more quirks and variety than other men's labels. What I don't see is the same variety in this show so in that respect I do find it less inspired.

you did not say that. Sir, i suggest you re-read!

and i thought giant bowties (amongst other looks of the collection) were "quirky" enough..

I do wear suits more than three times a year, I wear them every week. What I said was that I'd only wear a uber-formal suit such as those shown in the collection about three times a year to swanky parties

? again. you never said that.

why would you re-post a reply with things you never said, when users can easily track-back and read the first post?

I'd totally agree this collection is designed for people who have important parties and special occasions because its uber-formal. I find this fairly restricting

... VS.

when the clothes are in-store, we'll all be able to wear items with less formal, every day wear

uh. i think thats enough..

dont respond to this.

..just take note that saying something but meaning something else, can be very confusing/misconstrude if not done properly.

i agree to disagree...but just understand, i was simply going from what you "said"

 

[disstop]

-No sir... i think YOU need to re-read what you wrote. & I agree when you say "Maybe I should have been more thorough in my original posting"




you did not say that. Sir, i suggest you re-read!

and i thought giant bowties (amongst other looks of the collection) were "quirky" enough..



? again. you never said that.

why would you re-post a reply with things you never said, when users can easily track-back and read the first post?



... VS.



uh. i think thats enough..

dont respond to this.

..just take note that saying something but meaning something else, can be very confusing/misconstrude if not done properly.

i agree to disagree...but just understand, i was simply going from what you "said"

CG: you sound like a trial lawyer. Give it a rest. And your criticisms are pedantic and hypocritical. You distort a lot of what TheEnd wrote, and you totally misread several of his points in your first response making your criticisms seem even more ridculous. Also, when you lambaste someone and then instruct them not to respond it's obnoxious. Try to be less constipated.

 

[Colette_B]

^

 

[receptionista]

I think this collection is just okay. I really hate the wide trousers, but I love that trench, the bowties, and a couple of jackets. I must say that I enjoyed Hedi's departure into rocker-inspired territory but agree that it's generally an easy look to pull off. I miss the gold Bowie boots, but it's time to move on.

A lot of this season's stuff is a bit too stiff for my liking and at times a little tacky. Regardless, I can't wait to see where Dior Homme goes in the next year or two. Also:

but I guess that's the irony of the pret-a-porter and the fashion industry, really. the faces of the different houses are young and street-like but the actual (big) clients are david furnish and elton john.

I love you.

 

[chicgarcon]

CG: you sound like a trial lawyer. Give it a rest. And your criticisms are pedantic and hypocritical. You distort a lot of what TheEnd wrote, and you totally misread several of his points in your first response making your criticisms seem even more ridculous. Also, when you lambaste someone and then instruct them not to respond it's obnoxious. Try to be less constipated.

..that was lambasting?..trial lawyer?

i'd ask you to explain exactly what was hypocritical of me, or 'pedantic'...but i'd rather just close this case (i guess i'll play the role as judge too)

case closed.

 

[TheEnd]

As disstop eloquently said, you've misread my posts and made some unnecessary and pedantic points. I'm so tempted not to play cat and mouse because you're actually being catty bordering on malicious. As per forum dictum, I was going to reply to you personally to explain myself but then I thought sod it, I want to expose how you've totally misinterpreted what I was originally saying. Picking up on your irritatingly patronising points, let's relook at some of the quotes from my original post. Here goes...

Me: "What I liked about previous DH collections, which women's wear designers always do better than men's, is that there was a variety of sharply tailored suits and evening wear along with jeans, knitwear and more every-day wearable pieces."

This is an obvious acknowledgement that I'm praising previous DH collections for pushing the boundaries of men's fashion. I was also trying to say that I thought previous collections did a great job of offering a variety of different looks and items, of which you'd usually find more in a women's collection than a men's collection. I didn't say word for word that "Hedi is pushing the boundaries and offering men's clothes with more quirks and variety than other men's labels" but this is obvious if you read in-between the lines. I think you're being far too literal in your (mis)interpretation of my original quote. Ultimately my point was that I personally don't see the same inventiveness as previous collections in the 06/07 winter one.

Me: "Hedi presented a look for one occasion only - the opera or some ludicrously fancy event…...To sum up, I'm disappointed because I don't see anything I'd wear bar a shirt and one suit which I'd only have the opportunity to wear about three times a year"

Throughout my original posting I was referring to that fact that the 06/07 winter collection comprises almost entirely of uber-formal evening wear that I personally, as a 26 year old, would only have the opportunity to wear 2/3 times a year. Going to the opera or another event that would warrant such a dressy, formal look isn't a weekly occurrence for myself. As you can see from the above, I did explain this in my original posting.
In my second posting I explained that I do wear more suits on a weekly basis for work meetings and weddings etc but that I wouldn't find the suits in the 06/07 collection suitable for these occasions. They are too formal for my personal taste and the work meetings and weddings I attend. The DH suits I have are from VOTC and are great for dressing up or down.

That said, in my second posting I agreed with you - that's right, I agreed with you - that, when the clothes are in-store, I'd probably find things I could wear.

Me: "Take your point that, when the clothes are in-store, we'll all be able to wear items with less formal, every day wear. Like Chinor1z says though, hard to see how we'd do this from the show alone"

This isn't hypocritical. It's an acknowledging that perhaps I was being too hasty saying I'd only wear a couple of items because a. you can't tell this from a catwalk show alone, you need to try them for yourself and b. there will be more items not seen on the catwalk in-store anyhow so there'll be lots more to see. Again, you're being too literal in your interpretation and not reading my posts in context or reading between the lines. You didn't even pick up on the fact that I agreed with one of your points and also picked up on the great point that Chinor1z made.

I think this is a fairly comprehensive explanation of what I was trying to say and hopefully you'll now understand the rationale behind my response to the new collection. We can either bury the hatchett (please God, can we bury the hatchett? I really haven't got the energy for this) or if you want to throw another punch I suggest we exchange personal messages and spare the rest of the forum our venom.

-No sir... i think YOU need to re-read what you wrote. & I agree when you say "Maybe I should have been more thorough in my original posting"




you did not say that. Sir, i suggest you re-read!

and i thought giant bowties (amongst other looks of the collection) were "quirky" enough..



? again. you never said that.

why would you re-post a reply with things you never said, when users can easily track-back and read the first post?



... VS.



uh. i think thats enough..

dont respond to this.

..just take note that saying something but meaning something else, can be very confusing/misconstrude if not done properly.

i agree to disagree...but just understand, i was simply going from what you "said"

 

[new_dawn_fades]

hmmmm...im still waiting to hear quality complaints... has anyone seen the collection in person already..how is the workmanship?

CG: i read u say "its only fashion".. cmon man ur contradicting urself.. it aint that big a deal...or are u hedi slimane in disguise?.. where is the love ppl?

maybe someone hasnt heard of the saying :

speech is silver
silence is golden

much love ppl

 

[Johnny]

..that was lambasting?..trial lawyer?

i'd ask you to explain exactly what was hypocritical of me, or 'pedantic'...but i'd rather just close this case (i guess i'll play the role as judge too)

case closed.

Shut-up then for f**ks sake!

 

[Zazie]

The End, I saw the same problems and made those same points too, but in "the beginning" of the thread. There are plenty of supporters and detractors it seems. I'm just glad that there are enough supporters and brave tuxedo/bolero buyers and wearers to keep Slimane going, hope they put the money where their heart is. And no, never wear a tuxedo to a wedding unless you are the groom or the best man, or it is a lavish ball attended by sorts like European royalty.

 

[TheEnd]

Hi Zazie, couldn't agree more. I can't wait to see what HS does next so hope more formally dressed Dior obsessives make the tuxes, boleros and cummerbunds etc a sell out. Hopefully chicgarcon will live up to his name and snap up the entire collection...

The End, I saw the same problems and made those same points too, but in "the beginning" of the thread. There are plenty of supporters and detractors it seems. I'm just glad that there are enough supporters and brave tuxedo/bolero buyers and wearers to keep Slimane going, hope they put the money where their heart is. And no, never wear a tuxedo to a wedding unless you are the groom or the best man, or it is a lavish ball attended by sorts like European royalty.

 

[Colette_B]

^

 

[Baizilla]

love this collection