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Dior Homme - posting requires reading thread rules!

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classic but not quite ...

Chinor1z said:
I love that blazer! To me the blazer you have falls into the category of "classic but not quite". Definitely agree with you on the fact that if you take those aspects away (all the details) then you're left looking like everyone else.

It is definitely a fine line.

Some of the photos you've attached I think still fall into the category of regularly wearable. But when I go to the stores/boutiques and look at pieces. I try to visualize what I'd think if someone was wearing that piece say... on the subway.

The Avedon ad campaign was gorgeous and the photo above just plain kicks ***. Richard will be missed.

As for the asian influenced garb, I would not disagree that it looks beautiful. But if you wore that walking down the street, I would wonder if there was a martial arts conference in town.

I think what sets the clothes of these designers apart from your run of the mill blazer and jeans are those clean lines and sharp cuts. I see kids wearing blazers all over the place here in Boston and 99% of the time it looks disgusting because they're poorly constructed and the fit is atrocious.

I liken it to comparing a child's stick figure drawing of a person vs. say Da Vinci's Vitruvian Man. One has the idea of it, but the other is more refined, carefully thought out and executed with perfection.

It's what I feel sets apart (the early... Follow Me) tees from your run of the mill black tee from JC Penny (a US dept. store). The cut is nice, but you have the thought out details like the restitched hem slit and the shoulder darts.

Granted, I own (and wear) the napoleon jacket, my neon hoodies, blood wound shirt (er... my own version of it), but I am very much a jeans, sneakers and tee sort of guy. I do sense this changing through no small influence of people like you and this forum hahaha, but I wear clothes that are both comfortable and are still tailored to perfection. That's why I feel that when I wear the jeans, sneakers, shirt and blazer, it is distinctly different than your average joe trying to do this with banana republic/gap/AF/AE/Hollister clothes.

I'm mentally trying to work out how to work my way into a style that is devoid of tees with pictures and such on it. Something that is elegant within itself yet socially acceptable in the sense that it turns heads but doesn't raise eyebrows. By no means does this mean that I would inherently dislike or look with disdain upon someone wearing an outfit that looks like it came straight off of the Luster runway (actually... I'd give them props because that takes balls and confidence!). I just know what is and is not for me.

I like hearing about other people's philosophy and personal style management. Jost, your viewpoint is very interesting in the sense that we appreciate the same line of clothe(s) but utilize it in somewhat different ways. I dig it!

Apologies for the long reply but this has been a very interesting series of postings and you both write very intelligently about clothes and personal style. I personally probably have a similar approach in terms of style to "Chinor1z" but style is very influenced by environment. I used to work making arts documentaries in London and then I could wear more experimental stuff, including Miyake, Comme etc. Although I always preferred Helmut Lang for the way that innovation was mixed with sharp tailoring and an understanding of the way clothes could be "classic but not quite"... Now, I see the same thing in Dior and I love the way the clothes can give people the sense of something that is both familiar and different at the same time (the details, the tailoring etc).

But it's also true that people's reactions are very much influenced by place and by career - I live in Rome but when I go to London, people are always very complimentary about anything I wear by Dior. Instead, in Rome (where I work for a political / financial consultancy so a more conservative environment) even wearing a slim-cut, tailored black suit raises eyebrows. But in reaction to Jost's comments about men's insecurities over wearing anything unusual, today there was a short article written by Hussein Chalayan in the newspaper La Repubblica, in which he says of the style in the Mediterranean countries: "Sembra di essere finiti nel teatro dell'omologazione. Dietro c'è un'enorme insicurezza,una paura di esistere. è una cultura priva di gusto, spesso legata all'ostentazione..." (Roughly translated: "It seems to have finished in a display of conformity. Behind this is a huge insecurity, a fear of existing. It's a culture without taste, often tied to an ostentation..."). It's curious that historically men's clothes were much more flamboyant then they are now.
 
jason7770 said:
a short article written by Hussein Chalayan in the newspaper La Repubblica, in which he says of the style in the Mediterranean countries: "Sembra di essere finiti nel teatro dell'omologazione. Dietro c'è un'enorme insicurezza,una paura di esistere. è una cultura priva di gusto, spesso legata all'ostentazione..." (Roughly translated: "It seems to have finished in a display of conformity. Behind this is a huge insecurity, a fear of existing. It's a culture without taste, often tied to an ostentation..."). It's curious that historically men's clothes were much more flamboyant then they are now.
Great quote.

There's something about the uglyfication people are willing to submit themselves to, it's really disturbing. And I can tell you it's just not only in the Mediterranean region. In the U.S. the standard is the Dockers pants ... :yuk:
I feel his "culture without a taste" is dead on. I wonder if it is the result of a society of mass-consumerism?... Thinking out loud and possibly not making much sense, I feel sometimes it has something to do with the negation of the body in modern society, as a way to control and weaken people.
 
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^^
i was looking at those jeans as well, and in my size, yay.^_^

so they go the suspenders on Eluxury.com
p10984840_ph_hero.jpg

for $235.:huh:
i'm still thnking of getting the white ones though,
but school starts this comming week, and i'm going to be broke for a while.
 
dorien said:
for $235.:huh:
i'm still thnking of getting the white ones though,
but school starts this comming week, and i'm going to be broke for a while.
Why don't you get some at your local punk store? Seriously, they're probably $10 or something, and they might have more colors.
 
DriversHigh said:
A bit off topic but I just picked up a great vintage Dior sweater. The tag inside says that it was made in the US. I also have a vintage LV messenger bag passed down to me by my mother which says the same thing. Now, my question is when (time period assuming that this occured during a specific time) and why were designer items made in the US? Does it affect the value of the piece at all?

These pieces basically are thrift. YSL and Christian Dior both are (or have been) licensed labels, ie any company willing to pay the fee could use them. And (as I understand it) there are no production or design standards attached to using the label. So, unless the label says 'dior homme' or yves saint laurent 'rive gauche' it has no special value.
 
sonno said:
These pieces basically are thrift. YSL and Christian Dior both are (or have been) licensed labels, ie any company willing to pay the fee could use them. And (as I understand it) there are no production or design standards attached to using the label. So, unless the label says 'dior homme' or yves saint laurent 'rive gauche' it has no special value.


ooo I see. Were they available at the corresponding label's store or elsewhere? So this is pretty much low quality stuff with a designer label tacked unto it? :angry: (sorry I'm asking so many questions):lol:


And my favorite Japanese actor (Satoshi Tsumabuki) in a DH bomber:


cover.jpg

(http://mensnonno.shueisha.co.jp/home.html)

And on the runway:

00090m.jpg

(men.style.com)

It's nice to see it on a "real" person.
 
DriversHigh said:
ooo I see. Were they available at the corresponding label's store or elsewhere? So this is pretty much low quality stuff with a designer label tacked unto it? :angry: (sorry I'm asking so many questions):lol:

It's often low quality stuff, and, no, you'd never have found it at the label's boutique. But anyone with christian dior junk sitting around can list it on ebay as 'dior homme' with impunity and suckers will pay good money for it. Witness argentine alberto's ebay 'dior homme' listings. He's not violating any policy because 'homme' is a generic term (although at one time he was including pictures of hang tags faked to look like dior homme hang tags; people reported those lisitings and they got shut down; same with when he referred to hedi slimane in his listings; but ebay doesn't seem to care about his false claims as to the original retail value of the crap he's selling).
 
Chinor1z said:
The funny thing about those "brut" jeans is that they're just the raw denims that they've always had out.

I can see the team now:
"we need to raise prices again! What do we have that we can relabel?"
"how about this MASSIVE amount of raw denims that we've got? Obviously the outlets aren't selling enough of them at $50."
"good plan... let's give it a masculine name... something rugged, none of this androgyny and luxury tailoring that we used to do... what's that scent you're wearing today?"
"brut?"
"that's it! Tag it, pack it, ship it!"
"god bless the house of Dior and LVMH!"

Not to ruin the joke, but I think raw denim in french may be known as "brut denim", which from what I understand means, "hard denim"
 
Chinor1z said:
hahaha, fair enough!
really do want to c more of yr outfit in what i am wearing
u know what the neon green hoodie looks so damn GOOD on YOU!!!
and are u getting another color?coz i saw it in msngroups btw my id in msn is sebaswou its diffcult to find the votc suede boot omg.....
:sick:
 
^ haha...

:yuk:

.. and it will probably end up costing the same as the Dior one.. :ninja:
 
^That is appalling. I'm almost surprised, but it's Dolce, so I can't be too shocked.

chim said:
wow are you sure? A size 26 19cm hem? I didnt even know they went down that low. I think I should be safe with a size 27, if they ever show up on LVR.

Im afraid that a sz 26 will end up being too tight and I'll end up with another pair of unwearable diors. Is LVR going to get anymore stuff in anytime soon?
Yeah, I'm sure. What you have is far from the DH look. If you want the DH look (which is the only reason to really buy DH jeans, isn't it?), you'll have to go down another two sizes. So I take it LVR was out of 26's in the F/W section when you looked? I'm too lazy to look. :lol:

That new stuff from Brown's is just unbelievably hideous. I can't imagine it getting worse, but I'm sure some day I'll be surprised.
 
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DriversHigh said:
And my favorite Japanese actor (Satoshi Tsumabuki) in a DH bomber:

It's nice to see it on a "real" person.
I hate that checkered pattern so much. And that jacket just doesn't look anything like DH to me, just some random throwback punk jacket.
 
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