classic but not quite ...
Apologies for the long reply but this has been a very interesting series of postings and you both write very intelligently about clothes and personal style. I personally probably have a similar approach in terms of style to "Chinor1z" but style is very influenced by environment. I used to work making arts documentaries in London and then I could wear more experimental stuff, including Miyake, Comme etc. Although I always preferred Helmut Lang for the way that innovation was mixed with sharp tailoring and an understanding of the way clothes could be "classic but not quite"... Now, I see the same thing in Dior and I love the way the clothes can give people the sense of something that is both familiar and different at the same time (the details, the tailoring etc).
But it's also true that people's reactions are very much influenced by place and by career - I live in Rome but when I go to London, people are always very complimentary about anything I wear by Dior. Instead, in Rome (where I work for a political / financial consultancy so a more conservative environment) even wearing a slim-cut, tailored black suit raises eyebrows. But in reaction to Jost's comments about men's insecurities over wearing anything unusual, today there was a short article written by Hussein Chalayan in the newspaper La Repubblica, in which he says of the style in the Mediterranean countries: "Sembra di essere finiti nel teatro dell'omologazione. Dietro c'è un'enorme insicurezza,una paura di esistere. è una cultura priva di gusto, spesso legata all'ostentazione..." (Roughly translated: "It seems to have finished in a display of conformity. Behind this is a huge insecurity, a fear of existing. It's a culture without taste, often tied to an ostentation..."). It's curious that historically men's clothes were much more flamboyant then they are now.
Chinor1z said:I love that blazer! To me the blazer you have falls into the category of "classic but not quite". Definitely agree with you on the fact that if you take those aspects away (all the details) then you're left looking like everyone else.
It is definitely a fine line.
Some of the photos you've attached I think still fall into the category of regularly wearable. But when I go to the stores/boutiques and look at pieces. I try to visualize what I'd think if someone was wearing that piece say... on the subway.
The Avedon ad campaign was gorgeous and the photo above just plain kicks ***. Richard will be missed.
As for the asian influenced garb, I would not disagree that it looks beautiful. But if you wore that walking down the street, I would wonder if there was a martial arts conference in town.
I think what sets the clothes of these designers apart from your run of the mill blazer and jeans are those clean lines and sharp cuts. I see kids wearing blazers all over the place here in Boston and 99% of the time it looks disgusting because they're poorly constructed and the fit is atrocious.
I liken it to comparing a child's stick figure drawing of a person vs. say Da Vinci's Vitruvian Man. One has the idea of it, but the other is more refined, carefully thought out and executed with perfection.
It's what I feel sets apart (the early... Follow Me) tees from your run of the mill black tee from JC Penny (a US dept. store). The cut is nice, but you have the thought out details like the restitched hem slit and the shoulder darts.
Granted, I own (and wear) the napoleon jacket, my neon hoodies, blood wound shirt (er... my own version of it), but I am very much a jeans, sneakers and tee sort of guy. I do sense this changing through no small influence of people like you and this forum hahaha, but I wear clothes that are both comfortable and are still tailored to perfection. That's why I feel that when I wear the jeans, sneakers, shirt and blazer, it is distinctly different than your average joe trying to do this with banana republic/gap/AF/AE/Hollister clothes.
I'm mentally trying to work out how to work my way into a style that is devoid of tees with pictures and such on it. Something that is elegant within itself yet socially acceptable in the sense that it turns heads but doesn't raise eyebrows. By no means does this mean that I would inherently dislike or look with disdain upon someone wearing an outfit that looks like it came straight off of the Luster runway (actually... I'd give them props because that takes balls and confidence!). I just know what is and is not for me.
I like hearing about other people's philosophy and personal style management. Jost, your viewpoint is very interesting in the sense that we appreciate the same line of clothe(s) but utilize it in somewhat different ways. I dig it!
Apologies for the long reply but this has been a very interesting series of postings and you both write very intelligently about clothes and personal style. I personally probably have a similar approach in terms of style to "Chinor1z" but style is very influenced by environment. I used to work making arts documentaries in London and then I could wear more experimental stuff, including Miyake, Comme etc. Although I always preferred Helmut Lang for the way that innovation was mixed with sharp tailoring and an understanding of the way clothes could be "classic but not quite"... Now, I see the same thing in Dior and I love the way the clothes can give people the sense of something that is both familiar and different at the same time (the details, the tailoring etc).
But it's also true that people's reactions are very much influenced by place and by career - I live in Rome but when I go to London, people are always very complimentary about anything I wear by Dior. Instead, in Rome (where I work for a political / financial consultancy so a more conservative environment) even wearing a slim-cut, tailored black suit raises eyebrows. But in reaction to Jost's comments about men's insecurities over wearing anything unusual, today there was a short article written by Hussein Chalayan in the newspaper La Repubblica, in which he says of the style in the Mediterranean countries: "Sembra di essere finiti nel teatro dell'omologazione. Dietro c'è un'enorme insicurezza,una paura di esistere. è una cultura priva di gusto, spesso legata all'ostentazione..." (Roughly translated: "It seems to have finished in a display of conformity. Behind this is a huge insecurity, a fear of existing. It's a culture without taste, often tied to an ostentation..."). It's curious that historically men's clothes were much more flamboyant then they are now.




(sorry I'm asking so many questions
lol:



