Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

[tricotineacetat]

Chanel is probably the instigator of this problem TBH. Karl went on a rampage with his 10-12 collections a year, which put pressure on the other houses to start doing Pre-Collections and Resort Collections and Pre-Fall collections and Ski-Collections and Beach Collections, etc etc, and now we have way too many collections and hence luxury fatigue.

For fashion to be exciting again, it needs to produce less and to show less. Maybe three collections a year maximum: Fall/Winter, Resort, and Spring/Summer. Any more than that and it just becomes very repetitive and banal. No brand has that much to say, not even Chanel.

We are now seeing the same Chanel stories being repeated time and time again to the point where I am starting to question whether there is much more to be said at the house. How many more times can we see a Chanel tweed jacket reworked? And that apartment on Rue Cambon? And the Ritz Hotel? It's been done 100000000000 times before and I really don't think you can top what Karl did. Hedi's black and white photography and attention to branding is not enough to save this brand.

It's sad to say, but I think CHANEL has reached its apex. The brand's time has passed and long ago. As Frédéric Grangié said, the world has fashion fatigue. We are in a moment of overexposure, too many shows, ridiculous prices, etc etc. The conditions to create superb fashion no longer exist.

I could not even imagine the commercial pressure on whoever comes next to CHANEL. Imagine having the weight of an $20 billion dollar brand on your back. It's crazy!

I think the fundament and the culture would still be very much relevant today, but like I said, I think we need to look back at the origins of Chanel, to Gabrielle and the mission she embarked on. The practicality of dressing - Not devoid of french chic but without the opulence and froufrou of her male colleagues. She held Cristobal Balenciaga in high regard but not so much Dior and Schiaparelli, which is quite telling of the way she looked at fashion.

Lagerfeld did a terrific thing of his own but it stood in sharp contrast to what happened at Chanel prior to his arrival. I think what the house needs now is a different take and not an imitator of Karl. It will be up to the new designer to take the heritage in a different direction we haven’t looked at the legacy of Chanel at, build upon it, connect it’s past with something new.

When Raf Simons arrived at Jil Sander, he cleverly connected it’s precise tailoring and purism with an intellectual rigor, occasional abstract arts and futurism, while at the same time not neglecting the house’s practical way of dressing. He understood that Jil’s customer likely shopped within a continuum of brands such as Yohji Yamamoto, Miyake or a bit of Alaia and some of his designs references those couturiers clearly - In hindsight, we can see Patrick van Ommeslaeghe as an important asset to strengthen the dressmaking which was never a strong asset in the Jil Sander repertoire. That created an interesting tension that felt right with the house’s legacy. To me, that is an example I feel could stand exemplary for Chanel.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

For fashion to be exciting again, it needs to produce less and to show less. Maybe three collections a year maximum: Fall/Winter, Resort, and Spring/Summer. Any more than that and it just becomes very repetitive and banal. No brand has that much to say, not even Chanel.

You might not be surprised if I tell you that people with great power of decision think just the opposite.
If they could, they would stage a show every month.

Let's see if this changes in the coming 2 years.

 

[PDFSD]

i feel we been hearing and talking about slowing down and more quality on all level but all signs and number show only more more and less quality on all levels see the pandemic 2 minutes of reflection then back to overdrive x 3

just look at the shein recently valued at $68 billion ahead of a potential 2024 IPO in London and the small protest in UK to sop it and demanding labour laws investigation seem not to stop it either

• Shein generated an estimated $32.5 billion in 2023, a 43% increase on the $22.7 billion it made in 2022
• It has an estimated 88.8 million active shoppers, 17.3 million are based in the US
• Shein was downloaded 238 million times in 2023, making it the the most downloaded fashion app of that year.

Clean Clothes Campaign

Improving working conditions in the global garment industry

cleanclothes.org

An investigation by Italian outlet, Internazionale, published today, highlights the plight of over 150 garment workers in Romania, who were denied compensation by Dior, Gucci and Tod’s, after suddenly losing their jobs in 2023.

These fashion houses cancelled their contracts with the Selezione factory, after an increase in the national minimum wage in January last year 2023

This case supports recent research by the CCC, revealing the widespread nature of unfair purchasing practices across Europe, including by luxury brands.
In an evasive reply to the CCC, Gucci stated that the EU’s due diligence directive is not yet applicable to the company, whilst emphasising the need for supply chains to be “flexible”.
Meanwhile, Dior reassured of its commitment to labour law, claiming that orders were revoked due to “actual production needs”.
Tod’s did not reply to our correspondence, but its CEO allegedly told the factory owner that their costs “are far above our standards, and production planning, not me, has decided to make the pairs that you said you could not produce elsewhere.”


"Brands want the products very quickly and very cheap". greed continues to grow also in high fashion luxury brands no different .....

 

[PDFSD]

Did our beloved volft return? So many "receipts"

If people really think that the Chanel woman in 2025 is that narrow and limited then Hedi is what they deserve.

there is a bit of volft in everyone of us embrace the madness/slenderness lol

i think that slender silhouette already translated into elevated basics /sportswear long ago on the shop floor even during KL period and reinforced by VV on the catwalk everyday chanel coded/logo rtw...... thats why its working for all body types cc jeans cc sweatpants cc tweed jackets cc knits cc skirts cc tops etc etc

no size revolution will happen there even if Hedi goes or not.

but it's interesting to see both have similar points of view about cut and movement and silhouette.

 

[PDFSD]

Leena Nair, Global CEO, Chanel​

Oct 24, 2024


bit more on Chanel

 

[LadyJunon]

I believe Chanel does 10 collections a year, 6 of which are runway collections: four RTW, two HC, Cruise, MDA, Plage and Neige. The idea behind it was that Chanel was the only brand that needed this amount of collections to serve their clientele (to some point, I actually agree).

Hedi's approach is very similar to Coco: slender, modernist, sober, androgynous. All he realy needs to do is make it feel active and youthful instead of tired and matronly, which shouldn't be too hard for him.

If Hedi is appointed, he'll want to add menswear, boosting the total up to 12 collections and 8 shows a year. Chanel is a very commercial brand, so they could easily reduce that number to 8 collections by axing their non-runway collections. The RTW shows can be split, while HC, Cruise and MDA are co-ed.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

I believe Chanel does 10 collections a year, 6 of which are runway collections: four RTW, two HC, Cruise, MDA, Plage and Neige. The idea behind it was that Chanel was the only brand that needed this amount of collections to serve their clientele (to some point, I actually agree).

Hedi's approach is very similar to Coco: slender, modernist, sober, androgynous. All he realy needs to do is make it feel active and youthful instead of tired and matronly, which shouldn't be too hard for him.

If Hedi is appointed, he'll want to add menswear, boosting the total up to 12 collections and 8 shows a year. Chanel is a very commercial brand, so they could easily reduce that number to 8 collections by axing their non-runway collections. The RTW shows can be split, while HC, Cruise and MDA are co-ed.

Hedi Hedi Hedi

 

[Lola701]

Some of you are campaigning so hard for Hedi that you should send a dossier to Bruno Pavlovsky lol.

Karl wasn’t the obvious choice for Chanel. Neither the first time they asked him and even more the second time. Now, everything makes sense because at Chloe he did flou, he was dressing a very active fresh kind of woman that probably attracted Kitty D’Alessio…

Yves was the obvious heir of Chanel because of how much of her he infused into his work.

So if the choice of the designer for the brand for the next 10 years, I would rather have someone that has an interesting POV to offer.

I’m not fan of the idea of Marc Jacobs because I don’t think his work evolves into an idea of a woman however, he had some great moments at Vuitton. He could approach Chanel as en exercise de style…

Marc hasn’t really dressed people in years. I don’t even think people think about his clothes. And I think that because his clothes have only existed for so long in the space of a Redcarpet/fashion show, it’s really hard for me to connect with it.

In a way Chanel could be a challenge for him as it is about clothes that people ultimately wears…

 

[HigthaVandah]

Marc hasn’t really dressed people in years. I don’t even think people think about his clothes. And I think that because his clothes have only existed for so long in the space of a Redcarpet/fashion show, it’s really hard for me to connect with it.

Marc Jacobs is a household name in my non-fashiony US city. His various diffusion lines are everywhere. But his reputation is for regular mid-range utilitarian clothes, NOT for "high fashion"/"luxury". To the point that it's always a little jarring to me to see him mentioned in threads like this, to see references to his time at Celine, etc.

 

[Lola701]

Marc Jacobs is a household name in my non-fashiony US city. His various diffusion lines are everywhere. But his reputation is for regular mid-range utilitarian clothes, NOT for "high fashion"/"luxury". To the point that it's always a little jarring to me to see him mentioned in threads like this, to see references to his time at Celine, etc.

He is talented and he has done fabulous collections at Vuitton and at his own brand. The business reality of his business has nothing to do with his capacities or reputation. When you look at Vuitton SS2009, FW2009 and others, he is capable.

He is more volatile at his own house.

I think beyond his work, his great quality is his capacity to be a « great DJ ». He can absorb many things and make an interesting transcription that has a visual impact. But in terms of merchandising, I think it’s a little bit more complex…That’s why I question his ability to « dress » people.

Hedi is a good merchandiser but from a fashion proposition, it’s 0. At some point, if we are looking at things on a long term, a brand like Chanel needs a strong fashion proposition (that’s the foundation of Karl’s enduring success) because in essence Chanel sells tweed jackets, coats and dresses, knitwear and bags the most. I think that the « permanent collection » of Hedi Slimane could hurt the brand more than anything else.

So for me, Marc is there. At Vuitton it was amazing shows, very little of that was produced. The commercial stuff was done by Peter Copping and Julie de Libran but totally detached from his runway proposition.

At his own brand, he has been doing collections that are Bergdorf exclusives.

So beyond his capacities (he is totally equiped), it would be his mindset or his intention for Chanel that would be interesting.

 

[tricotineacetat]

He is talented and he has done fabulous collections at Vuitton and at his own brand. The business reality of his business has nothing to do with his capacities or reputation. When you look at Vuitton SS2009, FW2009 and others, he is capable.

He is more volatile at his own house.

I think beyond his work, his great quality is his capacity to be a « great DJ ». He can absorb many things and make an interesting transcription that has a visual impact. But in terms of merchandising, I think it’s a little bit more complex…That’s why I question his ability to « dress » people.

Hedi is a good merchandiser but from a fashion proposition, it’s 0. At some point, if we are looking at things on a long term, a brand like Chanel needs a strong fashion proposition (that’s the foundation of Karl’s enduring success) because in essence Chanel sells tweed jackets, coats and dresses, knitwear and bags the most. I think that the « permanent collection » of Hedi Slimane could hurt the brand more than anything else.

So for me, Marc is there. At Vuitton it was amazing shows, very little of that was produced. The commercial stuff was done by Peter Copping and Julie de Libran but totally detached from his runway proposition.

At his own brand, he has been doing collections that are Bergdorf exclusives.

So beyond his capacities (he is totally equiped), it would be his mindset or his intention for Chanel that would be interesting.

We shall see what‘s really going to be the driver of success in the future - I‘m not exactly sold on the fact that fashion revenues will forever be driven by 'strong fashion propositions' but something that will be a happy marriage of the pragmatic and practical that customer understand and just the right kind of update. It doesn’t need to be what we know understand as 'quiet luxury' but the idea of very seasonal clothes that super-rich customers wear for a season or two doesn‘t seem like something the industry needs at a time when the market for luxury products is oversatiated…

 

[george5]

Honestly, doesn't matter anymore to me who will take over. Judging by the latest articles it's quite clear Chanel's suits want to follow the Dior/Balenciaga blueprint. They want average products with mass appeal, somewhat affordable and ready to post it on Instagram. Think about the "J'ADIOR" bag, the "We should all be feminists" t-shirt or some plataform sneakers. Personally, I think this will be the end of the era of big and talented designers taking over huge fashion houses; the only place for them in the future will be small but financially stable houses like the recent Givenchy x Burton pairing.

 

[HigthaVandah]

Hedi's approach is very similar to Coco: slender, modernist, sober, androgynous. All he realy needs to do is make it feel active and youthful instead of tired and matronly, which shouldn't be too hard for him.

It seems a lot of people, not necessarily here, expect Chanel to try to convince us that Hedi, if they've chosen him, has mellowed with age(lol) and can be trusted to steer the ship of Chanel with appropriate stately gravitas.

But I predict they'll do the exact opposite. The marketing will paint Coco herself as a gritty and rebellious rock star of fashion, and Hedi as her natural successor in part because of his divisiveness and obstinateness.

 

[NoInvite]

On one side I do want to see new names at the helm. Maybe someone unexpected. Hidden talents from inside Chanel or some studio director from another house. But given recent appointments at big houses Ancora, McGirr, Davis, Williams (Matthew), Lee and more it has proven that beyond the clothes you need the vision and precision from the atelier to the stores. More importantly you need to know how to articulate your vision to a team and from the team to the clients.

I'm curious to see which path they choose. They are too big and a lot is at stake its not the same in the 80s when Karl was appointed.

 

[Lola701]

We shall see what‘s really going to be the driver of success in the future - I‘m not exactly sold on the fact that fashion revenues will forever be driven by 'strong fashion propositions' but something that will be a happy marriage of the pragmatic and practical that customer understand and just the right kind of update. It doesn’t need to be what we know understand as 'quiet luxury' but the idea of very seasonal clothes that super-rich customers wear for a season or two doesn‘t seem like something the industry needs at a time when the market for luxury products is oversatiated…

But that has been the foundation of Chanel for the past 40 years now.
Virginie Mouzat had that amazing quote about Chanel: « Du tres accessible très cher ».
It’s a language and an aesthetic people understand so it’s accessible. But the price point and the quality (for the most part)is exclusive.

In essence, Chanel is practical. So the way to have people go to the stores to buy fashion is to have a strong fashion proposition. I have many Chanel jackets and dresses. At the end, it’s a Chanel tweed jacket/dress but sometimes, the tiny detail somehow makes the difference. The same for blouses. When Karl did prints, I generally bought a printed blouse.

But then, again it’s only my POV. I strongly believe in seasonal stuff. Basics bores me. I can go to COS, Joseph for a basic. I go for the statement of the season. I may wear it this season and next year. I still wear my blouse from ss2008.

And the beauty about a brand like Chanel is that customers wants that. The problem of a brand like Chanel is that it’s more about brand loyalty than real style. But it’s an unfair advantage that they have to exploit. People have internalized that Chanel is timeless.


That’s really what makes the idea of someone like Slimane not interesting for me. It’s perfect on paper but in reality, he will not challenge the Chanel aesthetic (Karl did the rock skinny girls in monochrome) and he will not challenge himself. But then again, I don’t want to sound as redundant as his fans championing his takeover.

 

[tourbillions]

The best part about karls chanel was that you can buy the same tweed jacket over and over but it will have new details that will fit "the season" and at the same time you can wear the same one over and over again and you will not look out of season.

The core products didnt have big variations but the shows and the fashion propositions in each show made them the brand it is today. But in stores youll barely see the wild stuff in karls shows. Those seem to live only on their couture clients' closets.

They dont need a CD if their just gonna show exactly whats gonna be in stores every season.

 

[HigthaVandah]

I have many Chanel jackets and dresses. At the end, it’s a Chanel tweed jacket/dress but sometimes, the tiny detail somehow makes the difference

This is exactly what Hedi fanboys sound like about his leather jackets and boots.

 

[PDFSD]

i think even if they are and always where commercial they need a CD because you see it already with the last show its soulless even if VV was press shy and more commercial and not a brilliant player like KL, you still had the sense always they were both used/represented IRL some sort of personification of Coco Chanel ideas/mind each season like a conversation with her...... VV more as the researcher......... KL more as peer creative challenging her believes.

What Leena CEO of Chanel said in that last interview they are a private company so the don't have to speak on things all the time and they have a long term view and don't compare themselves with other companies because it not luxury if you do so.

And unless the CEO and other corporate people feel that they need to be the voice and face of Chanel, the need of a person that symbolically and creatively represents the brand is crucial in this case, because its always around coco chanel as a person and how it relates to now why its still relevant.

who will drive this conversation each season if no CD is in place a team won't do it .

also you need human touch as they often talk about why they dont have online store, and the luxury experience and the make of HC etc etc etc point of contact need to be there on creative level as well.

if not cracks will show even more as the message is not consistent on all levels , i foresee a Ancora Chanel 2.0

 

[PDFSD]

This is exactly what Hedi fanboys sound like about his leather jackets and boots.

thats why its a match made in heaven lol

 

[Lola701]

This is exactly what Hedi fanboys sound like about his leather jackets and boots.

But I don’t know if the cult following is there for womenswear.
I have a lot of girlfriends who enjoyed his Saint Laurent or Celine but for some reasons, it’s not a « fashion-focused » following.

And even if I like his work (despite my criticism), I only have ever bought a menswear look from his Celine and his last collection is maybe the only time I’m considering buying the womenswear.

That being said, as much as the Hedi fanboys wants a Chanel Homme, I’m still not sure if they would be willing to spend that kind of money. Leather pieces at Chanel don’t exist below 8K.