Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

I found the source of Karl calling Chanel a mean b*tch lmao. It's from the Sunday Times (June 7, 1984).

First of all, pretending to be 46 in 1984.... Karl... I think the video he's referencing is something that is in the INA.fr archives online. I've seen it somewhere.

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And these two quotes for a laugh:

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Sunday Times Archive
 
I found the source of Karl calling Chanel a mean b*tch lmao. It's from the Sunday Times (June 7, 1984).

First of all, pretending to be 46 in 1984.... Karl... I think the video he's referencing is something that is in the INA.fr archives online. I've seen it somewhere.

View attachment 1324323 View attachment 1324324

And these two quotes for a laugh:

View attachment 1324325
View attachment 1324327
Sunday Times Archive
I love how they kept in the little 'eh' he adds at the end of each sentence.
 
I found the source of Karl calling Chanel a mean b*tch lmao. It's from the Sunday Times (June 7, 1984).

First of all, pretending to be 46 in 1984.... Karl... I think the video he's referencing is something that is in the INA.fr archives online. I've seen it somewhere.

View attachment 1324324
Is he wrong though? While Chanel did wonders for the modern woman's wardrobe, she had a reputation of being a "pick-me". She was absolutely heinous to other women who weren't like her, especially Schiaparelli.
 
I agree with you. One thing is to follow Karl's path, another is to be his equivalent.
Everybody and their neighbours were working at their own houses, under their own names: St. Laurent, Montana, Sonia Rykiel, Kenzo, Diane von Furstenberg, Mugler...

I can imagine at the time Karl's move was seen as "not being a true couturier".
But what Karl did against everybody, turned out to become the dream for the next generation: to resurrect a heritage house.
The formula has been the epitome of glamour in the last twenty years, but it shows now symptoms of fatigue.

Yes, as has been retold through the "Becoming Karl Lagerfeld"series too, there was a true against the grain element of Karl. And he prevailed sooooooo hard, over everyone. His dedication to meaningfully resetting the foundation at Chanel is what allows for the label to carry on this long without a CD in place, and that is criminally overlooked.

I think Hedi has been such a pass around that Chanel would not take him. And to that end, Hedi has been passed around with shorter stints. This is a vital consideration for his ability to stick with a house and have a strong track record.

Some are saying Hedi is dropping hints; but it more like Hedi tried to emulate Chanel. At Celine? The triomph, the black and white ad campaigns and videos. Let's be honest, Hedi has done most things in B&W because he's not an original. Even the skinny jeans who brought into relevance in the early 2000's were just a pop off the punk rock style profile. Like, come on.

Miss Karl though. His rude *** remarks and cutting one-liners.
That b*tch! hahahah / What a legend we were lucky to witness.
 
Is he wrong though? While Chanel did wonders for the modern woman's wardrobe, she had a reputation of being a "pick-me". She was absolutely heinous to other women who weren't like her, especially Schiaparelli.
No, I actually find it refreshing that he said that!! It made me laugh because it was TRUE!
 
Chanel’s reputation as being mean is well known. She fired all her Atelier when they striked for a raise, right? There’s a premiere who wrote a book preface by Ines De La Fressange who worked for Coco and Karl. And in interviews she shared how mean Chanel was.
And I remember Françoise Sagan talking about how she stopped being around Coco because she was mean and still antisemitic (and this was in the 60’s).

The personality of Chanel is well known. I think it shouldn’t matter for the mass but I think in the fashion community and those circles, it had some kind if weight. She was probably all the « ic » and « ist » included.
 
Lauren Sherman had a scoop yesterday in her newsletter. If it's true, then it automatically knocks Hedi and several others out of contention, I would imagine:

  • How much will the creative director of Chanel get paid?: Between $4 million and $5 million, according to someone familiar with the interview process. (The company declined to comment on the matter.) To be clear, that’s low for such a high-profile gig, especially because it requires exclusivity: no collaborations, no other creative director gigs. That may have been what knocked Simon Porte Jacquemus, who just announced a fundraiser for his namesake line, out of the running.

    At some houses, this role could command $15 million, $20 million a year. Why so frugal, Chanel? Well, it’s further evidence that Leena Nair does not want her own omnipotent Kaiser, who will lord over everything, but rather a structure in which the leaders of each atelier will report in to a business leader. In that world, the number is completely fair.
 
Lauren Sherman had a scoop yesterday in her newsletter. If it's true, then it automatically knocks Hedi and several others out of contention, I would imagine:

  • How much will the creative director of Chanel get paid?: Between $4 million and $5 million, according to someone familiar with the interview process. (The company declined to comment on the matter.) To be clear, that’s low for such a high-profile gig, especially because it requires exclusivity: no collaborations, no other creative director gigs. That may have been what knocked Simon Porte Jacquemus, who just announced a fundraiser for his namesake line, out of the running.

    At some houses, this role could command $15 million, $20 million a year. Why so frugal, Chanel? Well, it’s further evidence that Leena Nair does not want her own omnipotent Kaiser, who will lord over everything, but rather a structure in which the leaders of each atelier will report in to a business leader. In that world, the number is completely fair.
and her salary package would be x or 3 times that :-) crazy
 
I’m sorry but she is not entirely wrong… The way Chanel and Karl used to work is a very unique situation which did not work for Virginie at all and a business relying too much on one person may become troublesome.

I think finding the next Karl is pointless and put a huge pressure on the one who will replace her. They need to find a new organisation that is good for the long term because since KL is dead, Chanel is slowly dying imo.
 
Mmi How much will the creative director of Chanel get paid?: Between $4 million and $5 million
Ah, but how much will runway stylist of Chanel get paid?
How much will the emo campaign photographer of Chanel get paid?
How much will the twinkfinder general of Chanel get paid???

(I'm joking. Sadly "no one's gonna be CD, at least not in the way we're accustomed to" sounds boring enough to be believable.)
 
I’m sorry but she is not entirely wrong… The way Chanel and Karl used to work is a very unique situation which did not work for Virginie at all and a business relying too much on one person may become troublesome.

I think finding the next Karl is pointless and put a huge pressure on the one who will replace her. They need to find a new organisation that is good for the long term because since KL is dead, Chanel is slowly dying imo.
.....unique situation which did not work for Virginie at all and a business relying too much on one person may become troublesome.
How so??? she did commercially very well for the company and sold even more than final KL years without playing to media (even if its thanks to KL that Chanel reached this point so it's not about taking away for all the great things he did for Chanel )

i think its over complicating Chanel CD job for no reason to think no one else could do it , and it has to be a copy of KL... lets not forget Coco was there before and times keep changing and it can be again a sole designer at the head of the fashion.

this Chanel is dying and luxury is dying every time something is not clear or sales dip.... is just click bait on rhetoric on repeat.

pls look at the numbers and facts :
Chanel Defies Luxury Slowdown as Annual Sales Surge to $20 Billion. The French couture house reported revenues up 16 percent in 2023 and plans to increase capital expenditure by as much as 50 percent in 2024.

let's wait and see 2024 Annual Sales to see how much they are suffering or laughing to the banks .
 
Really bizarre, if true! At this point, if they want to be so frugal, let AI do the creative director job.

What I find remarkable that the previous comments made by Bruno Pavlovsky and now this little tidbit are so very obviously screaming 'It's definitely NOT Hedi, it certainly is NOT Hedi'....

For one thing, I must admire the apparent self-confidence of Leena Nair in steering this brand thus far. I'd love to know what really is happening in the boardroom with the Wertheimer's (beyond the CD discussion). Ah the joys of a privately held company...
 
.....unique situation which did not work for Virginie at all and a business relying too much on one person may become troublesome.
How so??? she did commercially very well for the company and sold even more than final KL years without playing to media (even if its thanks to KL that Chanel reached this point so it's not about taking away for all the great things he did for Chanel )

i think its over complicating Chanel CD job for no reason to think no one else could do it , and it has to be a copy of KL... lets not forget Coco was there before and times keep changing and it can be again a sole designer at the head of the fashion.

this Chanel is dying and luxury is dying every time something is not clear or sales dip.... is just click bait on rhetoric on repeat.

pls look at the numbers and facts :
Chanel Defies Luxury Slowdown as Annual Sales Surge to $20 Billion. The French couture house reported revenues up 16 percent in 2023 and plans to increase capital expenditure by as much as 50 percent in 2024.

let's wait and see 2024 Annual Sales to see how much they are suffering or laughing to the banks .

Chanel, like Hermès, is relatively immune to sales downturns—that’s not the real issue here. People will always buy Chanel, and for reasons we all know.

Plus, sales figures under Virginie Viard don’t necessarily indicate her success. With a brand like Chanel, the role of the creative director is not only to keep sales up but to ensure that Chanel remains at the center of fashion and prestige. Brand perception, especially at this level, is essential—it’s more than just sales; it’s about cultivating prestige, relevance, and desirability. Which I believe she failed.

For Chanel to maintain its elite status, it needs constant renewal and relevance. The real question Chanel should consider is this: which creative director can revive that aura, bringing the brand back to everyone’s lips and ensuring it captures the attention, admiration, and even envy?

Because KL managed to make Chanel not only relevant but a cultural phenomenon, generating discussions far beyond the fashion industry. He elevated the brand to a cultural force, and I think Hermès is the only one on the same level. He didn’t just create collections; he crafted spectacles that captured global attention, making Chanel aspirational and influential on a level that extended well beyond fashion.

And yes I think the position at Chanel is anything but ordinary. With numerous collections (does Chanel realise the most collection among them all ? Not sure) to oversee and a network of businesses like Lesage relying on Chanel’s success, etc, I only think for one person is way too much - given the limited options of talented people we have currently.

In this sense, that's why I said Chanel is dying. In fashion and luxury, brand perception is everything, and it should never be underestimated.
 
She is 90% of the problem.

Leena Nair is a diversity hire and nothing else. How else do you go from working for Human Resources at Unilever (LOL) to Chanel? It makes no sense.

Ever since she came on board, the brand has started to sink and lose its prestige, in every way possible. This is what happens when you hire people from places like Unilever who have absolutely zero understanding of the luxury fashion landscape. And to hear that she had apparent expertise in People & Culture / Human Resources? Hilarious. Exactly who has she hired, or "lifted up" (her tagline on LinkedIn) since her appointment at CHANEL that has been transformative and made an impact on the brand? *crickets*

These CEO's think that they can transition their skillset and leverage their experience from random non-luxury-adjacent industries and somehow apply that to the fashion industry in a way that is world changing and ground breaking. Are they delusional? Luxury fashion is such a specific industry that requires people who understand its workings fundamentally and intrinsically ie. a Pietro Beccari or Francesca Belletini. A person from Human Resources at Unilever is not going to affect change in the way that Chanel wants. She might tick all the right boxes in terms of what a CEO in the 2024 "should" look like, but in actual on the ground solid work, she is absolutely the wrong choice.
 
The growth that some houses proudly display is, partially, artificial, due to the constant rise of prizes since 2020.

Wich, in return, might be partially responsible of the "luxury fatigue" that Mr. Grangié was recently talking about.

Of all the houses, Hermès seems to me the most solid.

Chanel is in a pivotal moment and remaining number one is harder than getting there.
They will need to be intelligent.
 
Honestly, I doubt they pay 5M at Chanel. That’s nothing. You have footballers getting 150M what the actual f*ck
 

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