Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

How about Virginie Viard at Fendi??

 

[oioioi]

Matthew is a fine choice tbh. I imagine what he has done for BV in terms of leather good accessories are what the Wertheimer looking for at the moment. And he also delivered some good fashion statements, so why not it’s could be interesting.
One aspect that I’m not too thrilled about is is association with the Raf crowds, I hope he doesn’t over-intellectualize, over analyzing Chanel. I mean we all see how that turn out, with Alaïa, and we definitely don’t need all that at Chanel. Karl was anything but pretentious.


Girl, her over you, I’ll be bitter.

Matthieu will only be contributing to the RTW (no leather goods, accessories, perfumes etc as we all know it's a similar operation to Hermes, and those categories are separate and have their own 'creative directors').

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Can Hedi take a pay cut and end this conversation once and for all?

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Matthieu will only be contributing to the RTW (no leather goods, accessories, perfumes etc as we all know it's a similar operation to Hermes, and those categories are separate and have their own 'creative directors').

Same at Vuitton with Nicolas at WRTW, Pharrell at MRTW, Francesca Amfitheatrof at Watches and Jewellery, Johnny Coca at LG and Accessories...

If they are clever, they will follow this structure at Gucci, once the Sabato phase is over.

 

[oioioi]

Same at Vuitton with Nicolas at WRTW, Pharrell at MRTW, Francesca Amfitheatrof at Watches and Jewellery, Johnny Coca at LG and Accessories...

If they are clever, they will follow this structure at Gucci, once the Sabato phase is over.

Although NG and Pharrell give the brief for the Show leathergoods, jewellery, shoes, accessories. They still do all the design meetings with the in-house team, choosing the colours, prints, reviewing prototypes etc. It is part of their overall vision for the show. If I understand correctly, Matthieu will only work on RTW (as everyone speculated on this thread, partly because Chanel doesn't want someone coming in with 360 vision and total control e.g. Hedi).
For Hermes, Nadege does not have any input on the bags for the show, just the colours for the final samples for the show that it sits with the RTW range.

 

[LadyJunon]

Wait, if Blazy is only going to do RTW at Chanel, who's going to do the HC?

 

[oioioi]

Wait, if Blazy is only going to do RTW at Chanel, who's going to do the HC?

Sorry was unclear, meant clothing in general - so RTW and HC.

 

[helmutnotdead]

he will do couture in that case.

 

[Lola701]

Matthieu will only be contributing to the RTW (no leather goods, accessories, perfumes etc as we all know it's a similar operation to Hermes, and those categories are separate and have their own 'creative directors').

The activities of Chanel Fashion include Accessories. So, RTW, Couture, Accessories, leather goods and Costume Jewelry.

I suspect that if he takes over, or who ever take over, they will come with their people. Overtime some people from the studio like Pascal Brault will leave…

Tbh, if the CD is clever, he can have a large influence on others categories. Karl always managed to put Haute Joaillerie in the shows, have his fashion ambassador branch into having beauty contracts…

I think that kind of setting works for Chanel because they have a very defined identity in every category.
I feel like at Dior, it’s not as smooth.

 

[Grets]

Already falling asleep at the thought of Blazy couture. But of course Chanel executives thought he was the right choice when looking at how well BV has performed, which has mostly been the trend during this quiet luxury boom. Yes there were some funky pompoms and awkward bulky fringe moments reminiscent of old Celine but in a year the faux-intellectual luxury will feel so stale. It already is! I can't even believe I'm saying this but I would have preferred Jacquemus over Blazy. Almost anyone over Blazy and these Raf Simons and Phoebe Philo wannabes polluting fashion.

 

[vogue22]

Okay guys let’s not get too ahead of ourselves, we still don't know if he is the chosen one.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

A Chanel SA told me they actually hired Tokyo Toni.

Chanel by Tokyo Toni Enterprises LLC

 

[yslforever]

The way Filippo Grazioli exited Missoni means he had something lined up, either BV or Loewe, my money is on BV, if Blazy rumors are true.
But I tend to think they are because Kering never announced his renewal.

 

[Xone]

Same at Vuitton with Nicolas at WRTW, Pharrell at MRTW, Francesca Amfitheatrof at Watches and Jewellery, Johnny Coca at LG and Accessories.

In Chanel who are the CD of each categorie at the moment?…

 

[Lola701]

In Chanel who are the CD of each categorie at the moment?…

- Virginie was the CD for the Fashion entity, now it’s the studio.
- Patrice Laguereau (who died last week or the week before) was the CD for Joaillerie and Haute Joaillerie (costume Jewelry is in the fashion entity).
- Arnaud Chastaignt is the CD for the watches
- Ammy Drammeh, Cecile Paravina and Valentina Li are the CD for make-up
- Olivier Polge is the perfumer.

So on top of that, they have presidents for:
- Fashion ( Bruno Pavlovsky)
- Beauty ( Simona Cattaneo )
- Watches and Jewelry ( Frederic Grangié )

And on top of that, you have that « weird position » that is the one of Thomas du Pre de Saint Maur, who is the head of creative ressources for all the entities except fashion. He is the one responsible for the fragrances, beauty, watches campaigns and communication, the choice of the spokesperson with the CD of those said categories.

And a lot of those positions were created after the death of Jacques Helleu. Until 2007, Chanel was basically Karl (Fashion), Jacques Helleu (watches and fragrances), Jacques Polge (Perfumer), Dominique Moncourtois et Heidi Morawetz (Beauty).

The death of Jacques Helleu made them change the structure of the house.

 

[Lola701]

^^
And I forgot The head of fashion image who is Marion Destenay. She replaced Eric Prfunder who worked closely with Karl from 1983 to 2019.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

- Ammy Drammeh, Cecile Paravina and Valentina Li are the CD for make-up

They are Creative Partners, not Creative Directors, big difference!?
Unlike Peter Phillips or Lucia Pica, they only do ads and lookbooks, no shows (yet)
While she has no official position at Chanel Beauty, Lisa Butler has been doing some of the biggest things for the company

 

[Lola701]

They are Creative Partners, not Creative Directors, big difference!?
Unlike Peter Phillips or Lucia Pica, they only do ads and lookbooks, no shows (yet)
While she has no official position at Chanel Beauty, Lisa Butler has been doing some of the biggest things for the company

Exactly. I found it weird tbh when they decided to hire them 3. But it’s their official title so I go by it.
Why Lisa didn’t took the official title btw (if you know)?
Maybe those things will evolve as Cattaneo takes her full position next year (the Amy woman is retiring)
I think things are going to change again anyway. Chanel is in a full transition time.

 

[PDFSD]

Matthieu will only be contributing to the RTW (no leather goods, accessories, perfumes etc as we all know it's a similar operation to Hermes, and those categories are separate and have their own 'creative directors').

yes but for show the CD ask for things in his direction as well and the teams will have also items to push in the show that commercially have deeper buying for stores.

if he is successful with shows he will have more power and freedom to put things in the shows that are more from his point of views in design terms.

some cd have less interest in some categories so leave freedom to certain design departments to suggest or commercial needs be reflected in fashion shows ....its a dance and depends on the house structure and the success and interest of the cd

 

[PDFSD]

Okay guys let’s not get too ahead of ourselves, we still don't know if he is the chosen one.

I am afraid it's true :-( apparently Chanel paris studio have been notified/prepared already of his arrival other people at other houses in paris even know this via friends at the house.

just mixed feelings , i think for sure it will look better than the studios last show but can't say i am excited his bottega is not even crystallized yet to something strong and iconic.