THE DAILY TELEGRAPH’S SUNDAY STYLE: Burlesque dancer Dita Von Teese reveals her latest sexy lingerie range
December 07, 2014
by Clare Press
DITA Von Teese answers the door to her Hollywood bungalow in a black wiggle dress and patent heels, her hair swept up, skin like white velvet, a flick of kittenish eyeliner and her signature dark-red lip.
Her cat, Aleister, is tucked under her arm.
He’s a rare Devon Rex breed (Google it; they have coats like little lambs) and she calls him The Bat for a laugh.
It’s true he does have big ears and yellowish eyes, but forget creepy; he’s adorable, with 32,000 Instagram followers (if you want to add to their number, you can find him at @aleistervonteese).
In Von Teese’s drawing room – celadon green, lots of Chinoiserie and fringed lamps – there are more handsome animals, although they won’t be meowing any time soon.
There’s an antique bearskin rug complete with snarling head; a taxidermied fox in diamanté jewels; various birds including a peacock, a pair of swans and, imposing in an alcove by the door, an ostrich – stuffed, the lot of them.
While the ostrich’s feathers are all his own, he has the look of an ageing showgirl about him, perhaps Dame Edna.
Such competition! Still, it is Von Teese, having taken a seat by the window on a low sofa, the light hitting her alabaster profile just so, who is centre stage.
She likes a bit of drama, does our Dita.
“I like visual drama,” she corrects, smiling.
Good point.
In person, there is nothing of the prima donna about her.
Is it weird to use the word ‘sweet’ when talking about the sexiest woman on the planet? When she does her legendary burlesque routine, the set-up in the martini glass for example, where she washes her perfect body with a sponge shaped like a giant olive, sweet isn’t the first thing that comes to mind.
But (how good is this?) her real name is Sweet – and in person that’s just what she is.
The softly spoken Von Teese, 42, is warm, insightful and ridiculously welcoming; she lets me rifle through her shoe closets.
Dita Von Teese in Sunday Style
Dita Von Teese prides herself on her unique style.
I mean, hello.
So why did Heather Sweet from small-town Rochester, Michigan, restyle herself Ms Von Teese? “I fell in love with lingerie when I was a little girl. I’d steal it out of my mother’s drawer.”
And when she wasn’t pilfering pants, or glued to the Saturday matinee, she was in ballet class, which led to her smooth stage moves.
The Sweets moved to Orange County when Heather was a teenager, which is where she clapped eyes on her first grown-up knicker shop.
“It was a little boutique store, they carried all the different brands, from the sexier brands to the more, shall we say, practical brands. I was desperate to work there.
“My mother was a manicurist in a beauty salon [nearby] and I would go over there, and keep on at them until they gave in.”
She started stacking boxes, but stayed for years.
“I became fascinated with the history of lingerie, and the Holy Grails of obscure lingerie, like corsetry and garter belts and bullet bras.” She started collecting these things “because I was so interested by what women wore in different eras and how the shapes changed”.
Of course, she dressed up in it.
Dita Von Teese in Sunday Style
A Dita Von Teese corset ($200).
Being photographed so clad “as a vintage pin-up” was the next step; the lost art of burlesque (and the stage name Dita) the one after that.
Part of the impetus, she says, was that “I had no role models in the mainstream media. Every year, the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue comes out, and is there ever anything I can relate to in there? No, there is not.
“I think a lot of people feel that way; the American blonde standard of beauty – the natural beauty, the healthy glow and the tan, the no-makeup, wet-look-on-the-beach thing – I can never be that girl.
“That’s the one per cent.”
Von Teese likes the unnatural (and I’m not talking about Marilyn Manson).
“‘Artifice’ is one of my favourite words,” she says.
“Glamour is about creating magic, about weaving a mysterious aura around yourself.
“My beauty idols are movie stars of the 1930s and ’40s, when it was about creating a very stylised look: the red lipstick, the eyebrows, creating a beauty that’s nothing to do with what you were born with.
“I think a lot of people relate to that.”
Make that a lot of women – because it’s a fallacy that burlesque, or Von Teese’s polished brand of showgirlship, is all about men.
She says 80 per cent of her live-show audience is women.
“It’s not something I foresaw when I first started creating these shows 20 years ago; back then there were a lot of guys.
“But I’ve watched firsthand the audiences shifting. It’s turning on its head the whole feminist argument about what it means to take your clothes off in public.
“It can be sexy, but it’s not about sex.
“In my opinion, the body is an afterthought of burlesque.”
Dita Von Teese in Sunday Style
Briefs from Dita Von Teese’s new lingerie range ($109.95).
Dita Von Teese in Sunday Style
Full briefs designed by Dita Von Teese ($109.95).
The main deal, the core of Von Teese’s carefully crafted persona is good old-fashioned glamour and sensuality.
Ask her to define it and she says: “To me, that means creating a pleasurable existence for yourself – not for someone else.
“I relate that to everything, from my house to the way I dress and the way I look at the world.
Women are really getting that message and it means a lot to me.”
Lingerie, she says, is a major part of that.
“And it has come full circle.”
What she’s talking about is her latest incarnation as a lingerie designer.
In the era of the cynical fashion collab – where barely a day goes by without some sleb slapping their name on a product they have next-to-nothing to do with – Von Teese is the real deal: an expert in her field.
She’s immersed in her collections to the point of saying things like, “If only I could sketch,” and, “I wish I could sew the pieces, so I could do it all myself. My design process is really about ‘show and tell’, going into my archive of vintage pieces and going into my book collection – I have a huge library full of vintage lingerie catalogues.”
But believe you me, Mr Big Shot Couturier isn’t sewing, either.
It’s ace that Von Teese is so hands-on with the design of her ranges – that’s one of the reasons they sell like hot cakes.
Another is that she insisted from the get-go that it comes in realistic sizes (up to a size 20 in briefs and an 18DD bra cup).
“I always think how we can look at the past, capture the spirit of that era of glamour, but make it modern, functional, wearable in everyday life.”
Her first collection in Australia was for Target and quickly sold out.
Her range is now stocked in Myer.
“I know about quality and shapes, I know what makes something elegant and classic. I have good taste, I guess.”
She’s also well-connected.
The Parisian shoe designer Christian Louboutin makes Von Teese’s show shoes.
A few years ago, he designed a personalised toile de Jouy fabric in her honour, complete with hand-drawn scenes of Von Teese dancing in a birdcage and being laced into her long boots.
Now she’s borrowed this toile to create XXXtian, a limited edition of delectable silk lingerie.
I defy you to think of a better stocking-stuffer.
“The toile de Jouy is the essence of French 18th-century feminine sophistication,” Louboutin tells Sunday Style.
“No one can be closer to a modern Marie Antoinette than Dita, her curves and wit celebrated on a canvas dedicated to adorn either a shoe or divine lingerie.”
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