Edward Enninful Departing British Vogue as EIC, Promoted to New Global Role within Condé Nast

^ that's what I meant, sorry: in the job ad. It is required in some countries. It can be bs too because ranges are allowed so you will see things like "$80,000-$225,000" :expressionless:.. and of course it's totally possible that if you're, say, a woman, you get the job for $80k only to realise the rest of your male coworkers in the same position are in the hundreds lol. A bit like the hierarchy thing you mention but at least you get an idea from the range..?
 
During the Meisel era of Vogue Italia covers, there was a moment when the stories went from exquisite fantasies to more uninspired shoots, and I can remember thinking (hearing?) at the time, it was because the magazine's budget had been cut.
 
During the Meisel era of Vogue Italia covers, there was a moment when the stories went from exquisite fantasies to more uninspired shoots, and I can remember thinking (hearing?) at the time, it was because the magazine's budget had been cut.

Which makes you wonder what the terms were for his British Vogue covers. I do also wonder how Edward managed to get him on board. It can't have just been about the money and I certainly don't think Edward's #NewVogue was a drawcard for Meisel. There had to have been another incentive. God knows what it is.

^ that's what I meant, sorry: in the job ad. It is required in some countries. It can be bs too because ranges are allowed so you will see things like "$80,000-$225,000" :expressionless:.. and of course it's totally possible that if you're, say, a woman, you get the job for $80k only to realise the rest of your male coworkers in the same position are in the hundreds lol. A bit like the hierarchy thing you mention but at least you get an idea from the range..?

Ah! Hadnt thought of it that way because what's the use of the Equal Pay act.
 
^^^ It could simply be that Meisel’s drawn to shooting the coverstory for the most current high-profile Vogue with his team of longtime friends, and for a generous rate. And going by his output with Edward’s Vogue, there’s been this consistency of the least effort put in— unlike his stronger efforts with Zara. Any junior photographer with just a passable creative level; solid understanding of lighting and composition; a solid team of stylist/MUA/hairstylist etc, and the willingness to research, study Meisel’s expensive archive, could easily do what Meisel is doing currently. (Rafael is anointed by Edward as the current Meisel-pretender, of course. However, even a strong team of reliable veterans can’t hide how lacking in technical skills (and questionable "creativity")— from lighting to post, this wannabe is. And hilariously, he only seems to be be getting worse and worse, rather than better and better with more opportunities LOL)

(...That want ad is purely a formality HR has to initiate. No unknown outsider that isn’t already a part of their inner circle will be even considered, let alone be offered the role.

They’ll select an internal candidate for the position.)
 
They’ll select an internal candidate for the position.

Agree. My money would be on Sarah Harris, as she has a following from years as a hybrid influencer/editor, but I also imagine they would want a BIPOC candidate post-Edward (rather than face some kind of never-ending backlash from the internet). **Please note: Not making a judgement on whether or not that should happen, and not adding my personal thoughts on whether race should play a part in this hire, just stating a prediction and my guess as to what Condé Nast is thinking**
 
Head of Editorial Content is complete BS!!! CN sabotaging Vogue in realtime
What’s the option then?
They can’t have an EIC because it cost a lot and Vogue US is still the most lucrative and visible of all.

No seasoned editor would take the EIC title of a publication like Vogue with a lower salary.

It’s cynical but the corporate world is cynical. They created a new position that allowed them to have a generational cleanse, reduce costs and maintain the titles. And Head of content are allowed to have side projects. They are like influencers with a 9 to 5.

Glossies are now replaced by supplements anyway and independent magazines maybe speaks more to a fashion fan.
 
What’s the option then?
They can’t have an EIC because it cost a lot and Vogue US is still the most lucrative and visible of all.

No seasoned editor would take the EIC title of a publication like Vogue with a lower salary.

I find it hard to agree with this. First, it's not as if the person leading Vogue China now is a seasoned editor when she came in. The same is true with other editions where the present EIC is just some loyal editor who got promoted. CN has been shifting away from "seasoned" editors to editors who can usher them into the new millennia and understands (albeit partially) the Gen Z audience.

Second, I doubt that editors will refuse to take on the EIC role even at a lower salary. The current HECs, if asked, would take on the role without missing a heartbeat -- especially those who came in from the ranks. (Notice how when they announced they're HECs, they're acting as if they're the EIC of the magazine). If they were to be EICs, that promotion, regardless of a decreased salary, is still a good credential for most. Also, a lowered EIC salary is still higher than their previous salaries otherwise there's a salary differential in the company (which subjects the company to labor disputes). Lower doesn't mean low.

This is why I don't understand why they abolished the EIC role for HEC. It's literally the same position with limited freedom (and possible reduced salary and benefits --- which imo, is the case for some international magazine EICs).
 
It’s cynical but the corporate world is cynical. They created a new position that allowed them to have a generational cleanse, reduce costs and maintain the titles. And Head of content are allowed to have side projects. They are like influencers with a 9 to 5.

Even from a business pov it doesn't make any sense. To me at least. In magazine world and in the digital world actually (which the Vogue brand has taken very long to catch on), your most prized asset is your audience which is directly linked to infrastructure (the actual magazine/website) and the content it holds. If that's not up to scratch (and the magazines aren't) and readers feel they're getting a subpar product, you run the risk of losing advertisers/revenue.

The very idea of Vogue as a brand is that they're premium, tailored, and exclusive. Elle and Harper's Bazaar has been doing reprints for years but it never hurt their brand because they were commercial at the core.

I'm really surprised that Anna allowed this move because just like you can tell when an interview was done via email as opposed to a conversation that flows naturally, you can tell when a magazine is being run by a corporation as opposed to a person. All the Euro Vogues are like that right now. Soulless and impersonal. The endless reprints are starting to taint the rest of the editorial content. Are the suits really that out of touch to imagine someone in Germany wouldn't read Italian Vogue, French Vogue AND German Vogue, and pick up on reprinted content they probably saw online weeks ahead of the actual print magazine?

Furthermore, this idea of the Head of Content being able to have side projects means it's open season for corruption, monopoly and conflict of interest.

They've not thought this through. Imagine co-opting a model that was started under Glenda. That alone should have been a deterrent for Anna but money talks, I suppose.
 
No seasoned editor would take the EIC title of a publication like Vogue with a lower salary.

We need to ask Karla Martinez, i think she is the only one who went to EIC to HEC...am i missing someone?...

they're HECs, they're acting as if they're the EIC of the magazine)

True, the Italian and French girls act like EIC but also people from the brands treat them like that...
 
When the world of print magazines was healthier than it is today, you could have broadly divided them into two categories -
  • mass-market magazines with large circulations, which possessed general appeal but also suffered from catering to their lowest common denominator;
  • more niche publications with smaller circulations but a more dedicated audience, with a much higher conversion rate of them buying the actual products and services advertised on the pages.
US Vogue was on the mass-market side, whereas Vogue Italia was more of a niche title for the fashion industry. Cosmopolitan was mass-market whereas Tatler and Vanity Fair were niche. And so on.

In the ecosystem of magazines, there were reasons why a title came to occupy the space that it did, and whatever the level, their readership was still cultivated with care.

But Conde Nast has decided, in most cases, that the internet is everything and print is an afterthought. So even if your country's Vogue leaned towards having a niche audience, it's mass-market now - with the lowest common denominator now being even lower than before. Because mass-market content designed for the internet is created with the awareness that digital attention spans are short, there's no point investing the same time, energy and money to create content with any depth. Just cut-and-paste across all titles.

In all of this, notice there are some Conde Nast titles that haven't changed so much - for example, Tatler and World of Interiors. Print titles for rich people, essentially. Conde Nast knows that, in some cases, the old niche model of speaking directly to a much smaller audience still yields a result. In some cases, you can't so easily present different content and still expect it to be eaten up.

But as time goes on, and you employ younger people who have no memory of interacting with print magazines as an adult consumer, even the niche model will fall by the wayside, because it will cease to 'mean' anything. People will look at the numbers, and think by prioritising the internet side of the title, they can better those numbers. They can simultaneously cut their costs and reach a wider audience!

Because the idea of quality has gone.
It's gone from the products advertised on sale, it's gone from the imagery used to promote them, it's gone from the appreciation of who your audience is. It's gone from every level. It's all mass-market now - at varying price points, which no longer bear any relation to what you're getting in return.

Conde Nast is going to wring every last drop of positive association from the "Vogue" logo until it has carpeted itself over in so many layers of mediocrity that in order to keep the cut-price circus going, it might even have to rename / relaunch some of its brands, in order to bring something new and exciting to the market.
 
I find it hard to agree with this. First, it's not as if the person leading Vogue China now is a seasoned editor when she came in. The same is true with other editions where the present EIC is just some loyal editor who got promoted. CN has been shifting away from "seasoned" editors to editors who can usher them into the new millennia and understands (albeit partially) the Gen Z audience.

Second, I doubt that editors will refuse to take on the EIC role even at a lower salary. The current HECs, if asked, would take on the role without missing a heartbeat -- especially those who came in from the ranks. (Notice how when they announced they're HECs, they're acting as if they're the EIC of the magazine). If they were to be EICs, that promotion, regardless of a decreased salary, is still a good credential for most. Also, a lowered EIC salary is still higher than their previous salaries otherwise there's a salary differential in the company (which subjects the company to labor disputes). Lower doesn't mean low.

This is why I don't understand why they abolished the EIC role for HEC. It's literally the same position with limited freedom (and possible reduced salary and benefits --- which imo, is the case for some international magazine EICs).

We are mainly talking about the main Vogue like UK, US or FR…
No seasoned editor would take that position with a lower salary. That’s why they went for people who had lower positions anyway.

Someone like Eugénie is slightly winning because Head of Content allow her to have some kind of decisions and she can do a little consulting here and there. I’ve heard that they are doing some kind of styling masterclass now in stores.

Eugénie doesn’t have the advantages of Emmanuelle. Even someone like Anastasia Barbieri would have lost more becoming Head of Content. Eugénie doesn’t have any power really. She has friendships, she comes from digital so she doesn’t have the weight of a stylist turned EIC who had build relationships with brands.

But yeah, they essentially describe themselves as EIC. The position was created to blur lines…But I wouldn’t be surprised to also learn that the teams at CN France for example is working across the publications because of the restructuration.

After, for others Vogue other than the main 3, it might be different. Vogue China doesn’t have that issue because they have a strong market. The market in Latin America is different too…

Even from a business pov it doesn't make any sense. To me at least. In magazine world and in the digital world actually (which the Vogue brand has taken very long to catch on), your most prized asset is your audience which is directly linked to infrastructure (the actual magazine/website) and the content it holds. If that's not up to scratch (and the magazines aren't) and readers feel they're getting a subpar product, you run the risk of losing advertisers/revenue.

The very idea of Vogue as a brand is that they're premium, tailored, and exclusive. Elle and Harper's Bazaar has been doing reprints for years but it never hurt their brand because they were commercial at the core.

I'm really surprised that Anna allowed this move because just like you can tell when an interview was done via email as opposed to a conversation that flows naturally, you can tell when a magazine is being run by a corporation as opposed to a person. All the Euro Vogues are like that right now. Soulless and impersonal. The endless reprints are starting to taint the rest of the editorial content. Are the suits really that out of touch to imagine someone in Germany wouldn't read Italian Vogue, French Vogue AND German Vogue, and pick up on reprinted content they probably saw online weeks ahead of the actual print magazine?

Furthermore, this idea of the Head of Content being able to have side projects means it's open season for corruption, monopoly and conflict of interest.

They've not thought this through. Imagine co-opting a model that was started under Glenda. That alone should have been a deterrent for Anna but money talks, I suppose.

I agree with what you said from a philosophical and emotional POV but I hate to say that…Their decision was practical. In a way or globalized society make their decision relevant but what I regret is that Vogue US is having a kind of main mise on all the editions. Gabriella and Carlos are almost styling everything. Talents cannot emerge because they aren’t nurturing them. And someone like Eugénie would rather have the cachet of the person who styled a big campaign and a big show than a « local editor ».

I think it’s only fair to have Head of content doing side projects to be honest. It was such a issue with Anna Dello Russo when she was working with Franca and Carine herself dealt with that all her tenure at Vogue. I mean she styled a lot of campaigns while being the editor of VP and she got a pass because it was the biggest annonceurs who called her.

Technically, even if we can see them as EIC, they report to Edward and Anna. In terms of hierarchy their projects doesn’t involved the whole responsibility of the publication even if those events are usually GQ x or Vogue France x.

And they were clever by not choosing quote on quote editors. Eugénie has never styled a campaign I think. Literally.

‘But it’s a tricky issue…
 
US Vogue was on the mass-market side, whereas Vogue Italia was more of a niche title for the fashion industry. Cosmopolitan was mass-market whereas Tatler and Vanity Fair were niche. And so on.

Notice how American Vogue is the only Vogue that stands to really benefit from this shake-up. For starters, their brand is stronger than ever, they will still continue to book top talent, they will get to dictate what the reprinted editorials will look like, and more importantly, they'll be the only edition with a traditional editor.

And from the country that has given the least to fashion. Mark my word, Anna Wintour is gunning to take out Paris, London and Milan as the fashion capitals where decisions are made. Power lies where the media lies. Some semblance of it, anyway.
 
^ this! she's been trying to decimate the other capitals for years and years and from every possible angle (creatively, logistically). I'm going to be obnoxious enough to reference my own post but remember the MFW debacle that pretty much preceded this? it demonstrated not just how far she's been willing to go but how she really believes something like NYFW (of all events :rofllaughing:) and the US in general should call the shots in the entire industry. I guess she found a match in this country when it comes to her imperialist, power-starved mindset.
 
^^^ And American Vogue has the strongest allegiance to another holy (and lucrative) industry that the masses still hold far more relevant than fashion: Hollywood.
Exactly! I talked about it with an editor!
We were puzzled by the fact that despite having the Festival de Cannes every year, a publication like Vogue has never been involved locally. Even if we are thinking about the golden age of those magazines in the 90’s and 00’s, neither VP, Vogue UK or VI had a life outside of the monthly publications. In a country like France where fashion is supported by the authorities…There exhibitions everytime at Palais Galleria and Vogue has never been involved.

When you think about the slow destruction of those publications, there are so many different angles…
 
When the world of print magazines was healthier than it is today, you could have broadly divided them into two categories -
  • mass-market magazines with large circulations, which possessed general appeal but also suffered from catering to their lowest common denominator;
  • more niche publications with smaller circulations but a more dedicated audience, with a much higher conversion rate of them buying the actual products and services advertised on the pages.
US Vogue was on the mass-market side, whereas Vogue Italia was more of a niche title for the fashion industry. Cosmopolitan was mass-market whereas Tatler and Vanity Fair were niche. And so on.

In the ecosystem of magazines, there were reasons why a title came to occupy the space that it did, and whatever the level, their readership was still cultivated with care.

But Conde Nast has decided, in most cases, that the internet is everything and print is an afterthought. So even if your country's Vogue leaned towards having a niche audience, it's mass-market now - with the lowest common denominator now being even lower than before. Because mass-market content designed for the internet is created with the awareness that digital attention spans are short, there's no point investing the same time, energy and money to create content with any depth. Just cut-and-paste across all titles.

In all of this, notice there are some Conde Nast titles that haven't changed so much - for example, Tatler and World of Interiors. Print titles for rich people, essentially. Conde Nast knows that, in some cases, the old niche model of speaking directly to a much smaller audience still yields a result. In some cases, you can't so easily present different content and still expect it to be eaten up.

But as time goes on, and you employ younger people who have no memory of interacting with print magazines as an adult consumer, even the niche model will fall by the wayside, because it will cease to 'mean' anything. People will look at the numbers, and think by prioritising the internet side of the title, they can better those numbers. They can simultaneously cut their costs and reach a wider audience!

Because the idea of quality has gone.
It's gone from the products advertised on sale, it's gone from the imagery used to promote them, it's gone from the appreciation of who your audience is. It's gone from every level. It's all mass-market now - at varying price points, which no longer bear any relation to what you're getting in return.

Conde Nast is going to wring every last drop of positive association from the "Vogue" logo until it has carpeted itself over in so many layers of mediocrity that in order to keep the cut-price circus going, it might even have to rename / relaunch some of its brands, in order to bring something new and exciting to the market.
This is a brilliant summary of everything that has gone wrong not only with fashion magazines, but with media in general (and a sad look at what is to come). Look at the U.S. Vogue website, which covers absolutely everything now -- celebrity news, politics, social issues, travel/"lifestyle" -- but they don't spend the money on any kind of quality control and have low-salaried 20-somethings "editing" it all (because all that matters are metrics and page views for advertisers), so it becomes mediocre mush. Meaningless, boring, and mind-numbing. ALL that matters is clicks to drive ad money. It might work now as a method of financial survival, but as you say, at some point in the future, Condé Nast will further chip away at the "Vogue" brand equity and then what will happen?
 
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And from the country that has given the least to fashion. Mark my word, Anna Wintour is gunning to take out Paris, London and Milan as the fashion capitals where decisions are made. Power lies where the media lies. Some semblance of it, anyway.
^ this! she's been trying to decimate the other capitals for years and years and from every possible angle (creatively, logistically). I'm going to be obnoxious enough to reference my own post but remember the MFW debacle that pretty much preceded this? it demonstrated not just how far she's been willing to go but how she really believes something like NYFW (of all events :rofllaughing:) and the US in general should call the shots in the entire industry. I guess she found a match in this country when it comes to her imperialist, power-starved mindset.
London has already been pushed to the side in recent years, but Milan and Paris are way too institutional, both in terms of brands and governing bodies, to allow that to happen. The big five (LVMH, Kering, Puig, Richemont, OTB) are Europe based. They obviously love their money, but I have a feeling that they love power and control even more. Not to mention, those two cities have a wider international reach than NYFW ever will.
 
Exactly! I talked about it with an editor!
We were puzzled by the fact that despite having the Festival de Cannes every year, a publication like Vogue has never been involved locally. Even if we are thinking about the golden age of those magazines in the 90’s and 00’s, neither VP, Vogue UK or VI had a life outside of the monthly publications. In a country like France where fashion is supported by the authorities…There exhibitions everytime at Palais Galleria and Vogue has never been involved.

When you think about the slow destruction of those publications, there are so many different angles…

LOL It’s like watching a flock of sheep run around in circles knocking their heads against the enclosure in an attempt to get to greener pastures with these Vogues— when the way out is simply by single file through an open gate… Common sense seems to elude them. But ultimately, they just don’t care to make any effort as long as the higher ups maintain their status quo.

From experience, these editors are reliant on the team they surround themselves with to produce “relevant” content. And they do know better— but rather simply sign off on idiocy because they trust their team to be on top of things to keep their rag current. And being "current" these days for Vogue means following SM instead of leading.

They can still be relevant to the InstaGeneration that they’re so desperate to be down with, the masses, the casual fashion fans etc and still be high fashion with a regional, cultural distinction, and it can all still be profitable. But the attitude seems o be why bother with the effort when the very minimal will do… Anna’s Vogue is more or less become just Vanity Fair with fashion spreads and pressbook for celebs to hustle their latest movie-- but that’s also a part of American fashion. Frankly, why she isn’t aggressively enforcing this rather than following SM seems to go against everything she is about: Capitalizing and optimizing profit from celebs and Hollywood glamour.
 

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