DosViolines
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nytimes
May 3, 2007
Neon’s Back. Curb Your Enthusiasm.
By ERIC WILSON
OF all the elements that were essential to the I-Want-My-MTV wardrobe, circa 1981 — and recycled ad nauseam by fashion designers for the I-Want-My-YouTube generation — neon should have been the most glaring candidate to be left behind on the What-Was-I-Thinking scrapheap.
Moreover, the current revival of black tights, black vests, winkle-pickers, porkpie hats, white-rimmed Ray-Bans, skinny jeans, skinny ties, skinny belts, crimped hair, asymmetrical hair, lace gloves, shoulder pads, pleated pants, bandage skirts, metal mesh and checkered Vans should have made the point that the ’80s was a decade rich in ideas so bad they were good enough to repeat. But neon? Wasn’t that the color of Boy George’s hair in 1984?
Well, no, periodic-table purists will point out. Neon is a chemical element that produces a bright reddish-orange light when charged in a vacuum tube. But in fashion the term encompasses a family of fluorescent colors — basically anything bright enough to have once encouraged the wearing of sunglasses at night. Its return presents a particular challenge for those who don’t wish to relive the days of neon past, reminders as they are of the sherbet-colored jackets with rolled sleeves favored by style eidolons like Tiffany, Milli Vanilli, Wham!, the Go-Go’s and Information Society.
This spring smartly dressed women are taking their cues from the bursts of daffodils and tulips that make the drab concrete of city streets seem pleasingly vibrant, as if they were outlined with a highlighter. Their recipe is quite simple, in that they have taken Coco Chanel’s adage about accessories and turned it backward: Pile on all the beige, cream and navy you like, look in the mirror and then add one more piece in neon.
A touch of brightness, in a handbag, a necklace, a belt or sandals, can improve the picture of spring fashion and the outlook of its followers. It was no accident that the lightness and fluidity of Olivier Theyskens’s first collection for Nina Ricci this season was conveyed in the acid green edges of chiffon dresses.
Neon feels bright, summery and fun. Used with some discretion, neon also feels modern.
Simon Burstall for The New York Times. Styling by Susan Joy
Gryphon distressed cotton-metal trench, $660 from activeendeavors.com; American Apparel tank, $22; 3.1 Phillip Lim paper-bag tulip skirt, $295 at Barneys and I Heart; Stella McCartney steel ball necklace $265 at Stella McCartney. Crumley gunmetal and chrome bracelets, $115 at Opening Ceremony and crumleynewyork.com.
Simon Burstall for The New York Times. Styling by Susan Joy
J. Crew wool blazer, $235; DKNY cotton shirt, $195, and bustier, $125; Theory linen pants, $225 at Saks; Pierre Hardy canvas and leather bag, $925 at Kirna Zabête; Hermès silk scarf (in hair), $325, and Arceau chronograph, $3,500; Lucite cuff, $55 at Alexis Bittar; Alyssa Norton gold and painted silk necklace worn as bracelet, $315 at alyssanorton.com.
Simon Burstall for The New York Times. Styling by Susan Joy
Vena Cava leather jacket, $1,392 at Barneys; Coach cashmere cardigan, $398; J. Crew poplin camp shirt, $68, and chino shorts, $39.50; Ray-Ban Wayfarers, $129.95 at ray-ban.com; DKNY leather bag, $225; Tashkent by Cheyenne raffia flats, $298 at 5 in 1 in Brooklyn.
Simon Burstall for The New York Times. Styling by Susan Joy
Alexander Wang silk racer-back blouse, $495 at Mick Margo; Clu jersey tank, $67 at activeendeavors.com; 3.1 Phillip Lim wide-leg pleated pants, $295 from P45.com; cognac leather belt, $150 at Castor & Pollux; Karen Walker skinny yellow belt, $55 at Elizabeth Charles and karenwalker.com; Lulu Frost for Alexander Wang Lucite and vintage chain earrings, $180 at Lulu Frost; Lucite bangles, $245 at Alexis Bittar.
Simon Burstall for The New York Times. Styling by Susan Joy
Acne Jeans suede pullover, $675, and cotton anorak, $499, at Opening Ceremony; Uniqlo miniskirt, $39.50; J. Crew scarf, $48; Scosha silver-bead necklaces with charms, $265 to $280, and woven linen bracelet, $110, at Rogan and W Studios in Brooklyn; Lucite bangles, $245 at Alexis Bittar; Swiss Army watch, $525 from swissarmy.com; Louis Vuitton leather sandals, $560.
i wish i can wear it as an accessory
I'd like some more tank tops or mini dresses (preferably in something shiny) in emerald or a more vibrant blue. I don't want to wear it with black, though, I feel that the colours don't pop enough when paired with anything black.
