Ennio and Carlo Capasa Leave Costume National

[vetements]

http://www.businessoffashion.com/ar...il&utm_term=0_d2191372b3-7cf32c01fd-419122581


what a shame, i love their vision. but to be honest, lately costume national has somewhat degraded to be a sale bin offering of sorts. a shame, i miss their leather products, and the signature black.
I have a key holder i have from the 90s and til today it is still in good condition ink:

 

[fashionista-ta]

I didn't realize they were at Costume National

 

[vetements]

source: Business of Fashion

MILAN, Italy — Ennio and Carlo Capasa — the brothers who founded Costume National in 1986 and served as the brand’s creative director and chief executive, respectively — are exiting the Italian fashion house. (Carlo Capasa is also the chief executive officer of the Italian Fashion Chamber).

Costume National is owned by a subsidiary of the Hong Kong-based holding company Sequedge Group, which first acquired a stake in the business in 2009.

“Today I will announce my resignation as a shareholder and creative director of Costume National," wrote Ennio Capasa in a statement. “I was hoping this would not happen. I fought with passion. The emotions I feel at this time are complex and take me back across these thirty extraordinary years, at the remarkable encounters, at the many shows and at the amazing creative energy that the world of fashion gives us everyday.”

“From the beginning I only had one idea: to create a style, to continue to evolve it, and to not follow the trend of the moment,” continued the designer, who worked at Yohji Yamamoto in Tokyo before returning to Italy to found Costume National.

“People say fashion is over, that marketing wins and that everything is an illusion,” he added. “Definitely not for me. I am, and will remain passionately committed to realising my own personal vision.”

 

[vetements]

I didn't realize they were at Costume National

i believe they are the founders....

ironically, seems like it is in "fashion" now to leave a house...

any body has any insiders news to why the "fall out"?

his comments certainly sounds bitter to me...

 

[GivenchyHomme]

And that's why you don't sell your own company. History has proven that it almost always ends in disaster. Just take a look at Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, John Galliano, Jil Sander and Helmut Lang. The money may seem nice at the moment, but once they have you hooked you better prepare yourself for change.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^^ I don't know if he sounds bitter, definitely angry ...

Perhaps 'marketing wins' is a clue ...

 

[Phuel]

I don’t know if a keyring still holding together is a solid endorsement of a label’s relevance, vestments LOL

Like yourself, I also liked their designs in the late-90s: That combination of classic modern shapes with an added graphic sharpness was so handsome to me. But Helmut and Jil’s brand of graphic sharpness always won me over in the end and CN’s pieces would be left hanging in the changing room.

Lately, as in the last decade, I don’t even know why they’re still around. They offer absolutely nothing designworthy: Their designs are so middle-of-the-road, high street, but their prices are in the high fashion range. I don’t know who their customers are, or was— maybe Chinese popstars and variety show personalities…? And these types usually just move on from one label to the next according to their stylists.

 

[softgrey]

i was actually thinking that they had got their groove back in the last couple of years...
i mean- they are one of THE hottest 90's brands and it's all about bringing back the 90's now...

this should be a huge comeback moment for them...
i'm really sad about this...

 

[Lola701]

It's sad because he was once one of the hottest name in fashion.
It's even more sad considering that his work was very strong. He had his style and he worked beautifully with it.
With a powerful stylist and casting director + moving the show from Milan to Paris, they could have made Costume National great again while maintaining the founders.
I believe that they will have a total makeover.

 

[Fashionstuff]

They made a good footwear before, i mean 10 years ago. Last winter i've ordered the footwear from CN again and it was horrible,far away from photos and far away from CN from before... bad quality and horrible design.
CN was never "very high fashion" but it was- is on the Level of luxury brands. It is so pity because too many brands in Italy have lost their fame , only a few examples : GF Ferre after death of Ferre ,Bublos, Enrico Coveri, Gai Mattiolo or also Ungaro which is not Ungaro of "one time"...

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Gianfranco Ferre is so in a different league than all the other brands you mentioned, Fashionstuff.

HIs contributions to Dior was definitely one of the strongest to the House for me. It is unfortunate that his label is left in the dust now. I admit, until I read your post, I had forgotten about Ferre for some time now; that brief resurrection was just awful and so hamfisted, so you can understand why LOL

I do have several vintage Ferre men’s pieces, and they are exceptionally made, with really clever engineering and impressive construction. It’s almost couture-like— definitely of which hasn’t been seen in menswear tailoring in some time. I don’t think CN, even at their most relevant, could ever have compared to Ferre.

 

[Fashionstuff]

^^^ Gianfranco Ferre is so in a different league than all the other brands you mentioned, Fashionstuff.

HIs contributions to Dior was definitely one of the strongest to the House for me. It is unfortunate that his label is left in the dust now. I admit, until I read your post, I had forgotten about Ferre for some time now; that brief resurrection was just awful and so hamfisted, so you can understand why LOL

I do have several vintage Ferre men’s pieces, and they are exceptionally made, with really clever engineering and impressive construction. It’s almost couture-like— definitely of which hasn’t been seen in menswear tailoring in some time. I don’t think CN, even at their most relevant, could ever have compared to Ferre.

Why GF Ferre is in the different league? Because of Dior? See, you forgett about him. So different was he not. Gianfranco has launched his first womens collection in 1978. Ferre was named “the Architect of Fashion” , he was famous about his white shirt -or white blouse.
About Ferre pieces, i had Ferre pieces, they were elegant and chic , if look like couture, i don't know, i haven't had any haute couture pieces but in this time Bublos was also awesome, Gai Mattiolo too, Coveri was too sporty.
Of course CN is not GF Ferre.