F/W 2020.21 & Cruise 2021 Open Discussion Thread

vogue28

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NYFW officially kicks off tomorrow and fashion month is about to commence. Which shows are you looking forward to most?

I'm keen to see what Tom Ford does this season showing in Los Angeles and always fond of Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs during NYFW!
 
I'm looking forward to Tom Ford as well! Does anyone know what time that show is at, it is not on the CFDA website
 
NYFW is almost doomed. People only cares about the big names because despite their inconsistency (like Tom), they have the loudest voices in a global sense of the word. Brands like Vaquera are fun but they have that London quality with them...They are in a bubble, worn by a bubble and they aren’t evocative of anything.

In Italy at least, brands like Sunnei or N21 have a global audience.

The narrative of the newer generation has maybe an echo on social media but it does not have the magnitude of someone like Jacquemus for example.
 
NYFW is almost doomed. People only cares about the big names because despite their inconsistency (like Tom), they have the loudest voices in a global sense of the word. Brands like Vaquera are fun but they have that London quality with them...They are in a bubble, worn by a bubble and they aren’t evocative of anything.

In Italy at least, brands like Sunnei or N21 have a global audience.

The narrative of the newer generation has maybe an echo on social media but it does not have the magnitude of someone like Jacquemus for example.

apparently vaqueras bubble can’t support them financially (not surprising bc snotty club kids tend to only exist bc of their rich parents) bc they had to last minute show at Dover street market due to no one wanting to sponsor them.

Honestly cancel culture is gross but nyfw could use some of it to cancel all this trash that has lowered the bar so far that the sale rack at a saks outlet feels more chic and cultured than a thing we see during the shows.
 
So many NY shows look like they took a leaf out of the Hedi Slimane for Celine handbook. Can we not do that 70s look rehashed a million times again thanks.
 
LFW is really like NYC in terms of predictability.
Collections are either about sophisticated and practical minimalism, whimsical princess or fairytale dresses or the tired OTT designs of overexcited student.

And much like NYC, only the big names will standout.
 
Milan tomorrow, yay! Couldn’t care less about Gucci on day one but excited for Max Mara come Thursday and Versace on Friday.
 
Just in terms of quality, Milan, from the mega brands to the more confidential ones is superior to both London and NYC!
 
A hint as to what to expect from the Chanel show on Tuesday:

 
Gotta say...and I know I’m a part of it here, too...but I kind of love that it seems, this season more than ever, a lot of us here at TFS have had it! No holds barred and we’re not afraid to unload on designers who aren’t pulling their weight. No more Mr./Ms. Nice Guys around here!
 
Did Blumarine have a show this season? My feeling is that this brand is not doing very well so they didn't have a show. I don't even remember seeing their ad campaign for the spring summer 2020 season.
 
Did Blumarine have a show this season? My feeling is that this brand is not doing very well so they didn't have a show. I don't even remember seeing their ad campaign for the spring summer 2020 season.

The brand is in crisis, they have been firing many people, and is also changing, they have hired a new designer two weeks ago (Nicola Brognano) and his first collection will be resort in June, the first show will be during MFW in September.
 
The brand is in crisis, they have been firing many people, and is also changing, they have hired a new designer two weeks ago (Nicola Brognano) and his first collection will be resort in June, the first show will be during MFW in September.

Thank you for your reply! It's a bit sad to see a brand with history goes in crisis in current economy.

May I ask another question: is Anna Molinari still in charge of the design? or they hired the new designer to replace her?
 
Thank you for your reply! It's a bit sad to see a brand with history goes in crisis in current economy.

May I ask another question: is Anna Molinari still in charge of the design? or they hired the new designer to replace her?

You're welcome! :flower:

Anna Molinari will not be in charge of the design but will remain as the brand ambassador (I don't know what this exactly means though)
Basically they're trying to give new life to the company which has financial problems.
First of all, in november 2019, Marco Marchi (owner of Liu Jo) bought Blufin, the company that includes three brands: Blumarine, Blugirl and Anna Molinari. The operation led to the inclusion of Blufin in the holding "Eccellenze Italiane".
Then, in February they announced that Nicola Brognano was appointed as the new creative director and his first collection would be resort 2020 in June and first show SS21 in September MFW.
Now, just some days ago, Marchi decided to fire about 60 people (half of the company) because of the financial problems Blufin is going through since 2017 (even if some say it's been 10 years of crisis for the company)
It's a very sad and complicated situation and with the coronavirus things can only get worse.. Italy is facing an health problem that will result in big economical damage for everyone.
 
I don't where I should say this but...

Even when Marc and Kenzo were the biggest winners this season, I have to admit that my favorite moment of the fall winter shows was Anok at Tom Ford wearing that black lace dress. Absolutely beyond. The set, the music, the mood and her walking with such magnetic vibe. I watched it on livestream and literally my jaw dropped when she walked. I felt spechless.
(Also don't understand why decided to ruin that glorious moment with that random girl closing as the bride. It pissed me off)

I'm comment about this now because I've been watching those 30 seconds on loop. If you didn't, please take a look.
 
Thought we could also discuss the upcoming Cruise 2020 collections here too, following Chanel's teaser of the upcoming collection:

 
Very excited to see what Chanel will do, it's an interesting chapter in fashion right now which I'm sure will set the tone for what's to come. I have many questions. How many models per show? Will it just be a heavily edited/spliced video, or 3D?

Must say I'm amazed that Chanel is going ahead with Cruise, but I guess they need the money, especially now. Because this morning I read that they've taken out a massive loan with the Bank of England!
 
I’m not under the impression it’s an actual show (which was originally scheduled for May and in Capri but was cancelled due to the pandemic), @[B]Benn98[/B]. Instead, the collection will be showcased via a series of images photographed by Karim Sadli, which will be released on Chanel’s website.
 
Christian Dior’s Cruise Show Will Be Live, but With No Audience, in Italy on July 22

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pietro Beccari, Christian Dior’s creative director of the women’s collection and CEO, respectively, hosted a video conference today to announce the Paris house’s cruise plans. The COVID-19 pandemic forced the postponement of Dior’s original show date of May 27. With France and Italy now more than a month into their reopenings, the company is moving forward with plans for a new date of July 22. A live show with no audience will be staged at the Piazza del Duomo in Lecce, a historic city in Italy’s Puglia region.

Beccari gave three reasons for the show. “The first one for Maria Grazia and I, but I think we are not the only ones: luxury is emotions, and when it comes to fashion, there is nothing that carries the emotion of a real fashion show, a live performance where art is performed without a safety net,” he said. Reason number two: supporting fashion on both a local and global scale, from the artisans who make the clothes and accessories to the “family” around the show: the models, the photographers, the hairstylists, the makeup artists, the musicians, and production houses. “We believe this occasion will be auspicious for the future, a good incentive to carry on with a certain optimism.” Reason number three: Both Beccari and Chiuri are Italian. “The support for our country is important for both of us, [as is] the support for the Puglia region, which was so badly hit by the crisis and on the edge of bankruptcy, but with a strong will to fight,” he explained.

Chiuri, whose father comes from the Puglia region, gave background about the long-planned collection in a taped interview showcasing the many Puglia-based craftspeople she called upon to help produce it and their particular crafts. Among them are tombolo, a type of embroidery she likened to “art,” and la constantine, a weaving method. Of special note are the luminarie, or light sculptures, of Marinella Senatore, who incorporated sayings into some of the pieces she contributed, including this one, “We rise by lifting others.”

“Something that was very important to me was conveying how much craftsmanship value there is in Puglia, and how important it is, especially for younger generations, to invest in this,” Chiuri said in the video. “We are a company that works with people across the world—so many people depend on our work. It’s a collective project that involves many people, and I found a great sense of sisterhood and brotherhood among these people who, despite all the difficulties and this general sense of not knowing and not understanding, decided to work with me anyway.”

Today’s announcement sets Dior apart from its luxury-goods house rivals, which are mostly sitting out the resort season spectaculars of typical years in favor of showroom appointments or virtual experiences. Beccari indicated that the Christian Dior fall 2020 couture show, scheduled for July 6, will not be live, but wouldn’t go into more detail. As for the spring 2021 show, to be held in Paris in September, he said, “We hope to be able to have some audience, if not a full room.”

VOGUE.COM
 

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