The 411 on getting a facial
Pollution, stress, sun exposure and the food we eat can all take their toll on our skin. That's why putting your best face forward requires extra effort. And that means complementing your basic cleanse-tone-moisturize regimen with regular facials. However, sifting through the myriad options--everything from spa treatments to at-home products-can be intimidating. To help make it easier, we asked experts to explain everything a sister should know about facials.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF A FACIAL?
"A facial is more than a luxury--it's hygiene for the skin," says Nina Curtis, aesthetician and founder of The Nile Institute skin-care center in Beverly Hills, California. As the largest organ in the body, our skin is in a constant state of renewal, shedding dead skin cells every 28 days Facials help remove this dead-cell buildup, rejuvenate the skin and help it function properly, says Curtis, who adds that without this step, your skin can look dull or break out.
THE BENEFITS OF A FACIAL
To hasten the removal of dead-skin cells, all good facials should start with a deep cleansing, followed by exfoliation. "For the best results, you have to start with clean pores," explains Layla Fayyad, owner of the Visage de Layla skin-care spa in Westwood, California. Depending on the state of your skin (stressed, lackluster) and your skin type (sensitive, acne-prone, oily, dry), the facial can include steaming, extraction (removal of blackheads and whiteheads), massage and the application of a mask and moisturizer. It may incorporate extras like aromatic oils, hot stones and acupressure. After a facial, your skin should feel gloriously pampered. "Many people think they'll finish a facial with puffy, irritated skin, but that shouldn't be," says Annet King, training and development manager at the International Dermal Institute, a worldwide aestheticians school headquartered in Los Angeles. "Your face should look the same as when you went in, only cleaner, shinier and more hydrated."
HOW DO I PICK THE RIGHT PRO?
Simple: Ask questions. Before surrendering your skin to a stranger, try to learn all you can about the expert and the facilities. Some considerations:
* Make sure the expert is licensed. A quality facial therapist should have a state certificate in skin care (meaning she has had at least 300 hours of training). Postgraduate study and a working knowledge of the latest industry advances are key. Ask about the training she has received and about her specialties. And don't be swayed by the number of years in the business: "People can be in the job for years, but if they haven't consistently upgraded their skills, they may not be the best choice," says King.
* Schedule a consultation first. Before she begins working on your skin, "the aesthetician should spend at least 40 minutes talking to you about your concerns and your needs," says Claude Arty, a registered nurse and specialist at Skinklinic, a skin-care center in New York City. Talk to the aesthetician about your skin type, diet, exercise regimen, fluid intake, skin regimen and any medications you take. This will help her determine which treatment will work best for you. Be sure she listens to your concerns and understands the results you want.
* Find someone who puts you at ease. "The aesthetician should not criticize you or your lifestyle; she's there to educate you," says Cornelia Zicu, head aesthetician at New York's Peninsula Spa.
* Test her knowledge. An expert should be able to answer questions about the treatments she's providing as well as the tools and products she's using. She should also educate you about your skin so that you know how to care for it at home. "You should feel as if you have your own skin-care coach," says Nina Curtis of L.A.'s Nile Institute. * Check out the facilities. "You want things to look pristine," says Curtis, who adds that this also goes for the aesthetician. "The expert you choose should be a model of her work. She should care for her skin as much as she does for yours."
WHICH FACIAL IS BEST FOR ME?
A facial should be customized to your needs, and that's best decided during the consultation. "What works well at one visit may not be appropriate the next time around," says aesthetician Cornelia Zicu. Here are some general treatment guidelines:
Problem: Acne-prone or sensitive skin.
Remedy: Enzyme peels.
Results: Pore-clogging bacteria and sebum are released with little irritation.
Problem: Hyperpigmentation (dark spots).
Remedy: Glycolic peels.
Results: Skin is clarified and the skin tone evened out.
Problem: Sagging skin.
Remedy: Oxygen or collagen facials. Results: Oxygen facials deliver oxygen to the cells to fight damaging free radicals, which break down skin structure and elasticity, so skin appears firmer. Collagen facials improve subtleness and lessen the appearance of fine lines.
Problem: Aging skin.
Remedy: Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids. Results: Skin cells regenerate faster, keeping fresher skin on the surface, softening the appearance of fine lines.
HOW DO I GIVE MYSELF A FACIAL?
Although you can't reproduce every step of a spa facial (for example, only professionals should extract blackheads), you can cleanse, nourish and refresh your skin with the help of the following products:
* To cleanse: Try Nivea Visage Refreshing Cleansing Gel (normal and combination skin); MD Formulations Facial Cleanser (all skin types, mdformulations.com); Calvin Klein Balancing Milk Cleanser (normal and dry skin); Dr. Brandt Poreless Tone (oily and combination skin, [800] 234-1066); Murad Clarifying Astringent (oily and acne-prone skin, [800] 33-MURAD); Jo Malone Eucalyptus and Mint Frothing Cleansing Cream (oily and combination skin, at select Saks Fifth Avenue stores); Neal's Yard Remedies Rose Petal Facial Steam (all skin types, at Bigelow Apothecary, NYC, [800] 793-LIFE).
* To exfoliate: Try Fresh Honey Face Scrub (for all skin types, fresh.com); Baronessa Call Moisturizing Face Scrub (for normal to dry skin, [888] 883-CALI); Lather Exfoliant Creme Cleanser (for all skin types, [877] 6-LATHER); Dermalogica Gentle Exfoliant Cream (for sensitive skin, [800] 831-5150).
* To unclog pores: Lancome Purifying Mineral Mask Formula 3 With White Clay, Origins' Get Down Deep-Pore Clay Cleanser, Shiseido Purifying Mask, Lazure Nubian Glow Aromatherapy Mask ([877] 5-UTOPIA), Phytobiodermie Tertonic Fire Red Clay Mask (phytobiodermie.com), Osea Red Algae Mask (oseaskin.com).
* To brighten: Mary Kay Clarifying Mask, Ella Bache Masque Soir de Fete ,([800] 922-2430), Hope Aesthetics Illuminaire Enzymatic Revitalizing Mask ([800] 266-4799), Ellen Lange Retexturizing Peel ([800] 652-6438), Clear Essence Skin Beautifying Milk ([800] 423-0306).
* To firm: Neutrogena Pore Refining Mask, Ole Henriksen Firm Action-Pore Refining Mask ([310] 854-7700), Dr. Hauschka Firming Mask ([800] 247-9907).
* To hydrate: Aesop Camellia Nut Facial Hydrating Cream (aesop.net.au), Lancome Hydra-Intense Masque, Yves Saint Laurent Hydra Tech Optimum Hydration Masque, Sothys Hydroptimale Masque (sothys.com), June Jacobs Spa Collection Cranberry Pomegranate Moisture Masque ([866] JUNE-JACOBS).
WHAT CAN GO WRONG?
Doing your homework and investigating your options can reduce your chances of having a bad facial experience. Keep in mind the following do's and don't's:
* Do ask for a patch test. If you're not sure how your skin will react to a certain treatment, ask the aesthetician to test it on a small, unnoticeable area of your face, such as under your chin, before proceeding.
* Don't let an aesthetician do the work of a dermatologist. "Laser procedures, chemical peels that remove entire layers of skin, Botox injections and lancing pimples should only be done by a dermatologist," says King. Dermatologist Susan Taylor, M.D, of the Skin of Color Center in New York City, adds, "Dermatologists are more experienced in administering these types of treatments; they can recognize the danger zones and understand how to handle potential problems."
* Do request written instructions. If you plan to purchase the products applied during your session to use at home, get a written explanation of their proper use.
* Don't be afraid to speak up. Tell your aesthetician immediately if a treatment starts to burn, itch or otherwise irritate, or if she is applying too much pressure during an extraction. Overaggressive treatment can cause scarring, discoloration, broken capillaries and other skin damage. "A good treatment should not leave marks on the face or make you break out," says Zicu.
* Do make sure that the aesthetician wears gloves, That's just good hygiene.
* Don't leave out important details. Be sure to let your aesthetician know if you are using medications (such as glycolics, Retin A) that could interfere with a treatment.
taken from about.com