Fur Overkill F/W 09.10

[Lovin_It]

Miu Miu have done a fabulous collection this time. Fabulous pics (thanks guys for posting).

 

[Crying Diamonds]

More from Miu Miu

style.it

 

[Crying Diamonds]

I love the patterns, like the fur checks and herringbone which is a lot more subtle than the pelt-on-a-rope look in the other pieces.

style.it

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Details from style.it

 

[Crying Diamonds]

 

[Lovin_It]

those mink shoes are kinda funky - they remind me of the ones Gucci did the other year with the mink trim. My friend owns a pair and love them. Fabulous use of fur in the pictres posted.

 

[gius]

it's a very interesting technique,
kind of plaited or braided
but maybe they just shave parts and dye black to create the checker effect

 

[Mewsette]

Oh god, it looks like they stuck rabbits to the front of the coats. Sorry, fur's never really been my thing (and I love bunnies).

 

[daaug1912]

Looks like this trend continues in Japan:

G.V.G.V.

Hisui

Yuma Koshino

all via jfw.jp

 

[Lovin_It]

Those fur legwarmers / boots are crazy! - GVGV ~ can't really see the point of them. I am still loving the other stuff though.

I am noticing that it is a good time to buy fur also as the cold season has ended where I am.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

More photos of Emilio Pucci

www.style.com

 

[Crying Diamonds]

www.style.com

 

[theprettycat]

I need a fur skirt in my wardrobe..

 

[William_St_Girl]

Loving this thread.... Im new to fashion spot... in fact this is my first post... and just wanted to say I love the way fur is back in fashion... been away too long in my mind... I love wearing fur things and accessories and cant believe how some girls dont like it... especially here in the UK where I have moved to from sweeden two years ago... you gont see any fur on the streets and the looks I get when I do wear some... dont understand it!

 

[fashionista-ta]

timesonline.co.uk

This is an interesting article that explains how the fur industry creates a fur 'trend' ... and perhaps also why some of the collections look like fur was slapped onto them.

Part 1

Fur companies lure designers with freebies and sponsorship

(Saga)

Helen Nugent and Carolyn Asome

Fur companies are offering lucrative sponsorship deals and expensive trips to British designers in an attempt to break the taboo on fur, an investigation by The Times has found.
After a ban on fur farming in Britain and successful campaigns by anti-fur groups, designers have been reluctant to promote ranges in this country for fear of retaliation. Now it has emerged that the large companies, including Saga Furs and Kopenhagen Fur, both in Denmark, are providing expensive furs free to British designers, as well as entertaining designers and stylists at their Scandanavian headquarters.
Designers said that in the present financial climate, sponsorship from fur companies could make the difference between putting on a show or being able to hire the right model. One said: “No one appreciates just how tough it is right now. If you were offered free fur which looks glamorous and expensive and you were assured it was ethically farmed then why wouldn’t you go ahead and stick it in your show?”
Another young British designer, who wished to remain anonymous, said: “Designers are approached by the fur companies. They offer you a trip to their fur centre in the country, it’s a nice jolly and you don’t have to pay for anything. Although you would have to pay for materials if the clients ordered all the garments after seeing them on the catwalk, the samples are all free. The sponsorship is worth thousands of pounds.”
According to the British Fur Trade Association, sales are buoyant despite London being the least pro-fur of the four main fashion capitals.
At London Fashion Week last month, fur was in abundance on the catwalks for the first time in years. In addition to coats and jackets, fur trims and accessories were highly visible. Issa, a London-based designer, used fur for the first time in London.
The company collaborated with Kopenhagen Fur, which provided all the materials free. Issa can keep the pieces for a year then they are returned to the supplier.
Todd Lynn, a Canadian-born designer, also included fur in his collection in February. His fur was provided by Saga Furs at no cost. He said: “I can understand the ethical side of it, you do hear horror stories but I was working with Saga and all their products are ‘origin assured’, they are ethically produced. It’s like a sponsorship deal. They provide the products and the expertise to make it so I can have it on the catwalk.”
Mark Townsend, a spokesman for Saga Furs, said: “It is important for us to have fur on the catwalk. If it’s on the catwalk, then it’s in catalogues and people buy it. London is important not in terms of sales but in terms of talent. It’s good to work with London designers, it’s good for PR.”
Louise Amstrup, a London-based designer from Denmark, was sponsored by Kopenhagen during Danish Fashion Week. She said: “We were looking for a collaboration when I was offered the chance to open Copenhagen fashion week. My budget was limited. Kopenhagen invited me to their studio and I was briefed on the breeders and how the fur is created. After that, I felt confident it was a product I could work with.”
Furriers insist that their product is ethically produced but this is disputed by designers who have visited the factories and by animal rights activists.
In the Danish countryside, the headquarters of Saga Furs is a historic manor built more than 100 years ago for a renowned opera singer. One designer who had been a guest of the company at the retreat, said: “It is not ethical at all. The animals are confined, they are in small, cramped spaces, they are not running around, they do not have a natural life. The furriers may say it’s humane but it depends on what you call humane.”

 

[fashionista-ta]

Part 2

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (Peta) says that confined animals suffer from intense boredom, many so severely that they display neurotic behaviours such as pacing, turning in endless circles, self-mutilation and even cannibalism. The crowding is particularly distressing to minks, solitary creatures that may occupy as much as 2,500 acres of wetland habitat in the wild.
“Most people in this country recognise that the fur industry is totally cruel and want nothing to do with it,” said Poorva Joshipura, director of special projects at Peta. “There is nothing fashionable about the ways animals die for their fur. The companies are always going to maximise their profits at the expense of their animals. It is a violent, bloody industry. There is no nice way to rip the fur off an animal’s back.”
THE SKIN TRADE
— Fur sales worldwide totalled $15bn (£10bn) in 2007, up 11 per cent on the previous year with nine years of continuous growth
— Britain’s fur trade turnover is about £400m-£500m a year
— In the European Union, fur retail turnover was $5 billion in 2007
— More than 1m people work full-time in the fur trade worldwide
— In Denmark, fur farming was worth 750m euros in 2006, making it the country’s third largest export after bacon and cheese
— Fur farming is banned in Britain
— Most farmed fur, which accounts for about 80-85 per cent of the global trade, comes from Europe and North America. The largest producers in the EU are Denmark, Finland, Netherlands and Poland
— China is the biggest fur producer. Peta says that it has no laws to monitor farms or to ensure that fur is properly labelled
Sources: British Fur Trade Association; Peta

 

[gius]

so would one say it's better if they are hunted in the wild?

i guess it would make them more expensive

 

[William_St_Girl]

That sort of insentive giving by producers and producing countries goes on in any industry... i'd hardly say that it was anything new or to be frowned upon... how many of us cant say they have been out on a corperate dinner FOC payed for by a rep trying to entise you to buy into their buisness... and lunch is just the start of it... football tickets etc etc... it happens everywhere...

I just think there is alot more major issues in the world we should all be more worried about!

 

[fashionista-ta]

so would one say it's better if they are hunted in the wild?

i guess it would make them more expensive

Merle's Door is a really interesting book that gives some perspective on this from a food standpoint ... Merle is a dog & the book is about domesticated animals & their freedom, but the author lives in I believe Montana & eats only meat that he himself has hunted. He & Merle go hunting together. I found it quite interesting ... obviously it's not an option we all have.

This kind of sponsorship and trend creation is actually quite unusual in the fashion world, to my knowledge. And I'm sure the reason is that no other material is as lucrative, plus the social pressure associated with this one is unique. I mean, imagine if the Velour Association, or the Lace Association, were doing the same thing, and suddenly out of nowhere lace started appearing on this many runways in all the same places as fur

DeBeers did product placement of diamonds in the movies in the 20s or so in a somewhat similar way, and the legacy of that in the public consciousness continues to this day. I was taught growing up to be aware of the attempts that are being made to manipulate me, and I still think that's a very healthy approach ...

PS I have worked with a number of rescued dogs, and all my own are rescues, so I've seen the neurotic behaviors that result from confinement that the article talks about. Even my neighbor has commented about how disturbing it is, just seeing it in my backyard. Even once they have more space and everything has changed, the behaviors continue for months or years. (I guess I should clarify that I'm talking about the pacing & endless circles only!)

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Really interesting article fashionista-ta - lots of facts I didn't know.

It's like the fur trade is trying to rescue itself from utter destruction from sheer unpopularity, and I believe they can manipulate designers so easily because fur can give that expensive, professional look to collections that make designers look serious about what they're doing. And getting it free? No wonder countless designers jumped at the chance.