The presentations don't quite work for me either. I think Cathy Horyne wasn't fan as well. It just doesn't work, I feel like he can incorporate the same sense of pacing and display without it be so obvious. The colors are what would be expected given the S/S06 show and Tisci's demonstrated tastes. I feel as though this should be considered mediocre in a world where couture week was filled with amazing houses competing with years of quality and experience. But instead, because Dior has become trashed and Chanel jaded, it takes the beginners work of a recently fledgling designer to keep people on track of what couture standards should be. But I suppose that is what Galliano and Lagerfeld orginally came on to their respective houses to do.
This is a noble effort from Tisci who I feel still hasn't gotten used to working in an Atelier. His ideas as nice as they are, seem a bit to obvious in the regards to Tisci's aesthetic and blatant connections to Givenchy's ready to wear. The soft pink gowns with their flowing floor length hems and feather appliques, as beautiful and red carpet worthy they were, were not quite as believable as couture. The black sihlouettes and matching painted model's faces were again wonderful but wouldn't be out of place next month at the Paris ready to wear shows. The poppy red ensembles or the white skirts and matching blouses were well executed and naturally well made but did not convince me it was indeed Couture.
The one look that stood above the others was the white bunched gown worn by Maria Carla. The intricate and gracefull loops and bunching was reminiscent of Vivinne Westwood's similar experiments but with perhaps a bit more refinement and "french" essence. To me this was the most confident as couture, not because of it's excessive use of fabric (galliano's favorite trick), but because it actually takes an atelier to discover and create. The range and resources enjoyed with an haute couture atelier peak at the limits of what a little old woman can do with her fingers...and that's quite a bit actually. Ricardo needs to take more confidence in what his vision can do with the proper tools. Not that I can blame his hesitance, Givenchy is notoriously hard to design for without falling into traps (Mcdonald) or forgetting what the house really is (mcdonald and mcqueen). When Tisci can firmly establish who the Givenchy woman is conceptually, he will then be able to explore what she looks like in the atelier fully.