Gucci S/S 2024 Milan

[ICONICA26]

ALESSANDRO MICHELE.

 

[Delleone]

Cut the guy some slack. Perhaps we get the fashion we deserve: to the point, straightforward and none of the high falutin bull crap.

Love the red, The Gucci Red. Great choice. Low key posh. Great lip colour too …

Love the new girl. I’d happily sip a few GTs in her company whilst marvelling at her pressed crease jeans. Again with that beautiful red label at the back. Gucci Red.

Precise, neat shapes.

Arguably The Dress of the season, Look 42. Grey jersey, cross back, deep V. Hugs you where it should. Low key sexy.

Best soundtrack.

Good shoes.

Neat side view shots on Vogue Runway. (A first? Probably not but looked cool.)

I’m excited about the brand again and can’t wait for the menswear. Appreciated Michele but didn’t vibe much with me. This, however? My curiosity is peaked!

Looking forward to the next issue of the Gucci fanzine. I’m a fan and I want to live in a Gucci Red world.

Encore!

 

[yslforever]

So 3 days later, investors don't like it either and the stock crashed yesterday. One wonder why ...

 

[velvetandsilk]

^ IMO, They made a mistake by only hiring him. When they wanted to make such huge profits. He should be hired only for the men's line and for the women's line someone with experience in accessories and women's lines should be found. If they want to compete with LV, they need to understand that when you want to reach different groups of consumers, finding one designer who can do it is not realistic these days. Now they also have a problem, because the branding of the cosmetics is completely different than the main clothing line.

 

[Olaffo]

I've watched this show few more times and, I swear to y'all, Mark Ronson would do better job fashion wise than SDS...

 

[Lola701]

So 3 days later, investors don't like it either and the stock crashed yesterday. One wonder why ...

I saw that earlier..It was so ironic that I laughed.
ANCORA I guess…
The marketing will be more than aggressive from now to the prefall season and to January/March.

‘I rewatched the show I kept wondering, apart from the Gucci hoodie, which piece a luxury or HF customer would pre-order. I saw nothing.

 

[yslforever]

I saw that earlier..It was so ironic that I laughed.
ANCORA I guess…
The marketing will be more than aggressive from now to the prefall season and to January/March.

‘I rewatched the show I kept wondering, apart from the Gucci hoodie, which piece a luxury or HF customer would pre-order. I saw nothing.

How can they become more agressive ? I am bombarded by online retailers about their menswear (the more I see it, the more I think of Banana Republic or J Crew)

 

[ACastleOnACloud]

I didn't like the collection at all, it was underwhelming even though I didn't have high expectations. I read that he's trying to start with a collection of basics from where to build up his tenure, but just because they are basics, it shouldn't mean they have to be basic.

I would feel a bit bad for the guy if it doesn't do well though because I think every designer is kinda of a softie and I guess I'm overly empathetic sometimes, until I read his statement about the collection and I don't really know how to feel anymore. How can you show this collection and describe it this way? It feels like he's unintentionally trolling us. It's the kind of thing movies about the fashion industry usually parody. It shouldn't be this easy.


gucci

 

[yslforever]

^ IMO, They made a mistake by only hiring him. When they wanted to make such huge profits. He should be hired only for the men's line and for the women's line someone with experience in accessories and women's lines should be found. If they want to compete with LV, they need to understand that when you want to reach different groups of consumers, finding one designer who can do it is not realistic these days. Now they also have a problem, because the branding of the cosmetics is completely different than the main clothing line.

IMO that's the main issue if their wanted to reach higher thresholds of revenues: Dior, Vuitton, Hermès all have different menswear and womenswear creative directors, plus jewelry and other designers. That enables them to get separate lines which can grow at different paces.
Plus designers that are good at both mens and womens are super rare, Tom Ford is one of them.
Male customers are much more difficult to convince, it takes longer to acquire them to a brand, but they remain more loyal imho. That's the reason why Gucci and Saint-Laurent should have 2 CDs: Vacarello is not so good at a menswear (there was Alber and Hedi at YSL for a reason), and De Sarno should focus on only one line ...

 

[ACastleOnACloud]

To be honest, I didn't see how Alessandro's Gucci could feel dated before because I liked his tenure, but I do see it now, I don't know, maybe it was the pandemic effect of time mind-f*ckery but I feel like his clothes can feel dated now entering 2024.

I think maybe Alessandro could have toned it down a little if he was to continue, but I'm not sure if he was willing to and that's okay.

At the same time, of course his genderless approach was definitive in Gucci's rebranding and resurgence but I think the suits didn't like that Gucci wasn't as profitable for the menswear clients as men are usually more wary of trying genderless inspired clothes.

I'm not sure how much more (or less?) successful Gucci for men will be from now on as his first menswear collection is yet to be revealed. I'm no businessman, but as someone that liked Alessandro's approach to menswear because I'm a man who dresses a bit girly, I enjoyed that Alessandro made this like safe space for boys like me and I like the idea that brands can succeed in appealing to a certain demographic and not try to be eveything for everyone as Sabato's approach to Gucci seems that will be, reading his statement about this first collection. Time will tell.

 

[LadyJunon]

IMO that's the main issue if their wanted to reach higher thresholds of revenues: Dior, Vuitton, Hermès all have different menswear and womenswear creative directors, plus jewelry and other designers. That enables them to get separate lines which can grow at different paces.
Plus designers that are good at both mens and womens are super rare, Tom Ford is one of them.
Male customers are much more difficult to convince, it takes longer to acquire them to a brand, but they remain more loyal imho. That's the reason why Gucci and Saint-Laurent should have 2 CDs: Vacarello is not so good at a menswear (there was Alber and Hedi at YSL for a reason), and De Sarno should focus on only one line ...

If that's the case, then they'll need a Chief Creative Officer to homogenise the two sides to keep some sort of visual unity across the brand, especially because one side always ends up upstaging the other.

 

[perhydrol]

I want to feel sorry for Sabato so badly, but I just can't. He should have been aware what's gonna happen with extremely high targets the suits were open about. At the same time, I wonder if he'll survive his three years at Gucci, because right now he's a literal ancora to the whole group and it's reflected in their market value. Let's see how this non-event sells.

 

[reesewu]

With this outing, I’m afraid Gucci will end up like Lanvin after Alber was sacked by the suits. De Sarno would be lucky to have two seasons under his belt like Bouchra Jarrar did because judging from where things are going, his fate may end up like Olivier Lapidus’.

 

[yslforever]

If that's the case, then they'll need a Chief Creative Officer to homogenise the two sides to keep some sort of visual unity across the brand, especially because one side always ends up upstaging the other.

Well it’s not really an issue at LV, Dior or Hermès, because the brands are well-established, Gucci is not very different in that matter…

 

[tourbillions]

With this outing, I’m afraid Gucci will end up like Lanvin after Alber was sacked by the suits. De Sarno would be lucky to have two seasons under his belt like Bouchra Jarrar did because judging from where things are going, his fate may end up like Olivier Lapidus’.

I dont think it will be like lanvin at all. Lanvin didnt have the same following and same market position as gucci. Even if Gucci's team made the bare minimum people would still buy it.

 

[Nimsay]

I dont get it. These clothes are Michele in new fabrics and toned down colorways. This stuff will probably sell even better. Micheles Gucci shapes were mostly great. The colorways and materials were often too polarizing to work into wardrobes.

I do agree that Gucci needs better investment and management structure. However LV is moving upmarket to compete with Hermes. Gucci shouldnt try to directly compete with LV but instead take their place in the market.

Gucci is stuck with a watch license - to swatch i think. that sort of drags their whole brand down.

 

[kasper!]

Kering is not linked with Swatch. They can produce those low-range fashion watches. Those fine watches are under Gucci and their in-house calibre is developed with technology support from Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin. Kering is still in good touch with them. Recently Girard-Perregaux had a cross-over with Saint Laurent and all the watches are sold out worldwide within a few days.

 

[Kimihiro]

Yes Gucci could benefit from a more institutional approach that Dior’s been transitioning too. With say Louis Vuitton and Hermes the brands are much bigger than the designers or the designs themselves. It might be a less coherent approach and less FASHION but it saves you from cyclical natures of creative directors and their aesthetic.

I don’t think Gucci has the brand equity for that yet. Michele’s stuff overextended it somehow hurt the brand.

 

[Frederic01]

Sabato knows very well the reception has been quite lukewarm to his #NewGucci :


SABATO DE SARNO

 

[Lola701]

^^
Hilarious. I get that creative people are sensitive anyway and that the critics may have got to him but he said in his interview before the show that people will say that it’s boring. The logic would have been that he was prepared for it.
When you have the conviction of your message, you just have to shut up and put in the work.
He has a new collection to show in 3 months and then menswear. He has pressure and a big challenge ahead.
Frida had the conviction of her aesthetic. The critics were terrible but she never switched and eventually her Gucci was a commercial success anyway.

I do agree that Gucci needs better investment and management structure. However LV is moving upmarket to compete with Hermes. Gucci shouldnt try to directly compete with LV but instead take their place in the market.

Gucci is stuck with a watch license - to swatch i think. that sort of drags their whole brand down.

Hmmm….
I think there’s a confusion between perception and reality. Don’t get it twisted, Louis Vuitton as a brand is bigger than all the brands in the market. Racamier was a visionary so when Bernard Arnault took over LVMH, he had already in his hands a very profitable and important company already that he only pushed to higher heights.

Can we really say that Louis Vuitton is competing with Hermes? Hmm no… Having more expensive products just mean that they are responding to the market.
But one thing is true about the influence of Hermes is the lifestyle approach. Hermes has always been a lifestyle brand.
We are seeing Vuitton transition more into that lifestyle brand. It’s not just about the luggages, the bags and clothes. The same thing happened with Dior, that has become in less than a decade a lifestyle brand.

It’s a strategy that allows the brand to be less dependent on the aesthetic of a creative director.

The problem of Pinault, that has never solve since Tom Ford left, is that he has never institutionalized Gucci. And at the same time, it’s difficult to make long term decisions with short terms goals.

If Swatch was linked to Gucci, it would have been great actually because Swatch owns some of the most prestigious house in the market and could have helped with the distribution and marketing too.

But as @kasper! said, it’s not the case. The worst thing is that Pinault has never managed to make Girard-Perregaux or Ulysse Nardin happen either…When Arnault turned Hublot into an important actor in the sector in a very short time. Now at LVMH, they are really pushing the watches and jewelry. KERING is still trying to make it cash cow happen…