Gucci S/S 2024 Milan

[Xone]

and btw Ancora also means "still/yet"...for example "did he arrive? ancora no" which is the suitable meaning now that we see the collection...maybe he was trying to tell us that he wasn't going to deliver this time...

 

[GivenchyHomme]

It's not an impressive debut. After all that build up I expected something completely different, radical even. I wasn't prepared to see an overwhelmingly commercial offering. These are the clothes that are made to fill space in the shop, not for a runway. It's also heavily derivative of the houses he worked for previously. Overall, it's not good enough. At least not for Gucci. Hopefully he can take a step back and think of what he wants the vision of the house to be. This collection is going to get lost come spring.

 

[HazJW]

Some good reviews coming in from the Guardian. I also saw a contributing Vogue editor who commented under a positive DietPrada writeup saying that critics were fashion illiterate and expecting 'fireworks' a la Michele which are now 'passé'. Very silly criticism imo, nobody is saying simplicity is bad or razzle-dazzle is always great. Seems to be a pre-agreed consensus that De Sarno is not to be critiqued too harshly yet.

 

[FashionFanatico]

I think the investors think like you, they are happy to replace fashion with more merchandise; there was a noticeable little bump on Kering stock prices when the show started yesterday and for the duration of the show. They are definitely happier than the TFS crowd, but it was still a sad day for us.

their plan is working it seems...

I feel you. And to be clear, i am really not happy about this development too.

but it's a fact for everyone working in the industry nowadays.
it's only about increasing sales of products (i am not even call it fashion anymore) for a generation that doesn't care much about quality, history or real value at all.

 

[Lola701]

I think the investors think like you, they are happy to replace fashion with more merchandise; there was a noticeable little bump on Kering stock prices when the show started yesterday and for the duration of the show. They are definitely happier than the TFS crowd, but it was still a sad day for us.

The irony is that Michele created that merchandise-heavy type of fashion. This is just safe products and it’s 100 percent sure that the Gucci logo hoodie is going to be the IT piece from the collection…
When I think about Gucci’s biggest competitor, Louis Vuitton, the brands couldn’t be miles apart. At Vuitton, a seasonal fashion statement still matters because the commercial machine is well oiled.

I’m always perplexed with those collections were all the store is put on the runway. I feel like it creates a real fatigue very fast.

I hope that Pinault knows that he won’t get the kind of amazing rise he had with Michele and also that it’s maybe healthier for his brand.

 

[HazJW]

Some good reviews coming in from the Guardian. I also saw a contributing Vogue editor who commented under a positive DietPrada writeup saying that critics were fashion illiterate and expecting 'fireworks' a la Michele which are now 'passé'. Very silly criticism imo, nobody is saying simplicity is bad or razzle-dazzle is always great. Seems to be a pre-agreed consensus that De Sarno is not to be critiqued too harshly yet.

Guardian review:
Gucci cuts the camp and returns to crisp chic under new designer

 

[Creative]

Could a mod edit the title of the thread? Someone put it’s Gucci. As far as I know it’s Zara

 

[donyan]

Guardian review:
Gucci cuts the camp and returns to crisp chic under new designer

They all loved Michele and now it’s ‘the camp’ as if it was something to get rid off. Michele’s vision was beautifully inclusive and human as well as being high fashion and, and, compared to this show, emotional and gorgeous to look at. There was a worldview, a vision beyond the merch, which was the reason it connected in such a kinetic way . I liked Sabato’s show but right now it’s not even comparable to Michele’s achievement

 

[LadyJunon]

Could a mod edit the title of the thread? Someone put it’s Gucci. As far as I know it’s Zara

Sorry, my fault...

 

[Norden]

It’s very bland and feels in-house team. I don’t think we can expect directional and interesting collections from these large houses anymore. They’re looking for smart ways to sell merch. It’s very thin, I can feel a spreadsheet behind it.

Also dietprada is paid advertising. These people have no weight, relevance or knowledge.

 

[HazJW]

It’s very bland and feels in-house team. I don’t think we can expect directional and interesting collections from these large houses anymore. They’re looking for smart ways to sell merch. It’s very thin, I can feel a spreadsheet behind it.

Also dietprada is paid advertising. These people have no weight, relevance or knowledge.

Oh I know, I just thought it was interesting that some Vogue contributing editor (I think, it was a major publication anyway, but I can't find the comment now) was saying that online, irrespective of where it was said.

 

[tourbillions]

no matter how good AM's gucci was at its peak it was still clothes youll use for a season then decide to donate to charity. They are probably all over 2nd hand stores now and for people who kept it, its that dress their daughters will be forced to wear to make their parents happy. it wasnt timeless, it was the customer's regrettable fashion phase unless they're part of the very niche market who'd wear those clothes daily. Compared to Nicholas LV, it is seasonal but always timeless and something youd love to keep.

 

[HazJW]

Oh I know, I just thought it was interesting that some Vogue contributing editor (I think, it was a major publication anyway, but I can't find the comment now) was saying that online, irrespective of where it was said.

(To clarify, it was a comment in a personal capacity under a DP post, so clearly the editor's actual opinion, she wasn't writing for it or being misquoted by it. Found it curious that somebody with some cachet was coming online using a verified account and making really odd misreadings of random commenters' takes).

 

[Lola701]

no matter how good AM's gucci was at its peak it was still clothes youll use for a season then decide to donate to charity. They are probably all over 2nd hand stores now and for people who kept it, its that dress their daughters will be forced to wear to make their parents happy. it wasnt timeless, it was the customer's regrettable fashion phase unless they're part of the very niche market who'd wear those clothes daily. Compared to Nicholas LV, it is seasonal but always timeless and something youd love to keep.

I get what you are saying but tbh, there’s no such a thing as « timeless » clothes per say. I think people go in and out of love with clothes. Maybe a hyper-luxury consumer has that relationship with clothes because it’s not about choosing things that match your style but having the latest fashion but Michele has designed some very « timeless pieces ». I was mostly a fan of his tailoring and the Dyonisus bag. I’ll keep them in my wardrobe and continue to wear them.
I think that Gucci being Gucci, much like Tom Ford or Frida’s stuff, RTW and some bags and even some shoes are always going to be it…Which is not the case for Balenciaga for example.
I actually think a lot of Alessandro’s stuff would look good with this. And I’m not talking about the costumes nobody bought anyway…

 

[Darko]

Alessandro was ONE BIG JOKE
Rooting for this guy ❤️

 

[Constructionist]

This might be a weird thing to say, but I think sometimes you can just tell if someone's going to be a good designer from the name. Alexander McQueen - fashion designer. Karl Lagerfeld - fashion designer. Hedi Slimane, Cristobal Balenciaga, Grace Wales Bonner, Alessandro Michele, all really obviously designers. 'Sabato De Sarno'... not so much.

There doesn't seem to be any rhyme to what you're saying.

It's like you just picked all the designers you like to go against the sacrificial lamb of the day.

 

[PierreGotha]

No matter what your opinions are against Alessandro's tenure, it is undeniable that he made Gucci interesting and extremely competitive. He expanded the brand and created a luxury ecosystem exclusive to Gucci. It may not be your cup of tea, but it is identifiable and specific. He made a lot of people interested in what he has done and therefore made them interested in Fashion as well. In turn, that affection is reflected in their revenue.

However, seeing this "Reset" one would argue that is it too safe?
In hindsight, Gucci came in late in the "Affluent Staple Collection " phase.
If one wants a "Crisp" tailored short and coat you already have Valentino, CELINE and Saint Laurent for that.

They better pump more budget in their Marketing department, because they'll need every cent.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i preferred the weirdo grandma chic
this is too much like zara

 

[michael123]

I have to say the reflection of those colors on the floor during the final walk, to that soundtrack, was quite moving. Felt so romantic and I wish the videographer highlighted this angle more.

 

[Royal-Galliano]

is this supposed to be a sort of palate cleanser collection? zero inspiration, zero aspiration and the shoes are just diabolical.