Haider Ackermann - Designer, Creative Director of Canada Goose & Tom Ford

[Lola701]

Kinda disagree, the brand is currently rather lacking in stores and retail presence around the world, they don't even have a womenswear store in Paris where they are going to show (just like The Row). They really do need one in Paris by March 25 for the show, otherwise it means Zegna aren't investing that much in the turnaround.
Also even though Zegna is pushing hard for the RTW, I think the XXX sneakers is like 50% of their sales and 90% of their profits.

With Haider showing in Paris, they will have to reopen a space in Paris. IMO they should have kept the space at the Angle of Rue Cambon and turn it into a menswear store and close the Francois 1er store instead. But I get that in terms of rent, there’s a huge difference.

But really, except Paris, they have stores in
the US, UK, Milan, UAE and Asia. It’s not bad in terms of diffusion.

According to the numbers, the clothes is what is selling. And surprisingly their stores are performing better than the wholesale network. They have opened 2 stores since Hawkings took over. And I think one is in Shanghai (that’s probably why the campaign was done there).

In Paris, it’s either Saint Honore or Avenue Montaigne nowadays. Last time I was in the city I talked to the people at Pierre Hardy and they told how much of a battle is to get a space there, and it makes sense.

I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that they are looking for spaces in Paris, even more with Haider now based in the city and the brand now being back fully part of the fashion conversation.

 

[PDFSD]

With Haider showing in Paris, they will have to reopen a space in Paris. IMO they should have kept the space at the Angle of Rue Cambon and turn it into a menswear store and close the Francois 1er store instead. But I get that in terms of rent, there’s a huge difference.

But really, except Paris, they have stores in
the US, UK, Milan, UAE and Asia. It’s not bad in terms of diffusion.

According to the numbers, the clothes is what is selling. And surprisingly their stores are performing better than the wholesale network. They have opened 2 stores since Hawkings took over. And I think one is in Shanghai (that’s probably why the campaign was done there).

In Paris, it’s either Saint Honore or Avenue Montaigne nowadays. Last time I was in the city I talked to the people at Pierre Hardy and they told how much of a battle is to get a space there, and it makes sense.

I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that they are looking for spaces in Paris, even more with Haider now based in the city and the brand now being back fully part of the fashion conversation.

i feel it cheaped the brand always when seeing TF in wholesale networks and how it hangs in sale between other brands like old gucci form the 90´s left over...... for a small jewel brand like TF with its high price point and ultra lux own stores they should be more disciplined with distribution of RTW business , and not chase easy money in first 30´s years at least to build a solid image of exclusivity and luxury.

 

[Lola701]

i feel it cheaped the brand always when seeing TF in wholesale networks and how it hangs in sale between other brands like old gucci form the 90´s left over...... for a small jewel brand like TF with its high price point and ultra lux own stores they should be more disciplined with distribution of RTW business , and not chase easy money in first 30´s years at least to build a solid image of exclusivity and luxury.

I agree. In think in that aspect, Tom’s lack of confidence when he came back to womenswear might have influenced it.
There’s strength and success on the long road with standing with your vision.

When he started womenswear, the off calendar secret shows, the limited distribution and all those things he did successfully for his menswear were seen as pretentious and pompous. He should have stayed his ground and continue with that road.
I think that the review from Virginie Mouzat for his S/S2012 changed the whole thing. I liked the photos of the lookbook and liked the collection but maybe what was presented at the show was less appealing.

In a way, I totally understand because he had to make money, as he invested his own money to launch womenswear (that sale of his Warhol artwork) but they made too much compromises along the way.

The irony is that today that strategy is celebrated.

But yes, indeed Tom Ford fashion from 2007 to 2013 was absolutely that Uber luxury, outrageous brand. And it got lost along the way. I remember the jewelry were 18K gold, exotic skins galore, nappa leather everywhere, hard to get. Their Parisian store was cute….But fashion was about comfort, daywear, minimalism and his proposition wasn’t maybe modern enough for that.

Alaïa got everybody « a l’usure ». I wish it was the same for Tom.

Anyway he can’t be ashamed of what his brand has become. It’s still a brand that means something.

 

[imjustken]

I love Haider but he's not an obvious choice for Tom Ford. Tom's glamorous. Haider's definitely seductive but he's not mainstream. He's subtle and even sometimes plain weird. I love him, he stands out but he's not everybody's cup of tea. He's got to speak to a lot of people at Ford. His stint at Berluti was great but it didn't last long. I think his ultimate dream along with Hermès is YSL. Ford comes close to that but it's not the same.

 

[imjustken]

I'm not very excited about Tom Ford as a brand to be honest. The bulk of its business seems to be perfume, makeup and accessories. Haider's a lot more about clothes.

 

[jeremydante]

Haider is a genius, a rare find in the group-think world of Fashion. He is every bit of what he creates in his clothes, as a person and persona. Trust me when I tell you, the mystery, the intrigue and the passion are all that he is, as you see and feel in his clothes- I know it first hand with him. He was the perfect choice for TF because he embodies a similar synergy with Tom. The dark sexy, seductive approach to design. This will be amazing, I am excited to see how he captures the dark glamour that Tom so loved during his era at both Gucci and YSL, before embarking upon his namesake label. I love Haider, I am very happy for him.

After what he's had to endure with the potential loss of his name with his former backer- to have Canada Goose and Tom Ford under his reign- it's what he deserves. Getting back everything he almost lost and then some. A blessing.

 

[chriswiles]

They are? I thought Ackermann was popular in menswear spaces.

TF menswear will barely change for AW25. The existing design team, which has worked on TF menswear for years, will primarily work on mens AW25. Ackermann will focus on womenswear - he hasn't got much time if they are going to show his first collection next March.

A single Creative Director isn't responsible for every single design of every piece. Most of the pieces are just replicates of previous designs - I've just picked up a TF AW25 bag which is a replicate of the same bag from AW22! Same design, same colour.

 

[Lola701]

TF menswear will barely change for AW25. The existing design team, which has worked on TF menswear for years, will primarily work on mens AW25. Ackermann will focus on womenswear - he hasn't got much time if they are going to show his first collection next March.

A single Creative Director isn't responsible for every single design of every piece. Most of the pieces are just replicates of previous designs - I've just picked up a TF AW25 bag which is a replicate of the same bag from AW22! Same design, same colour.

A bit more than 6 months for a debut collection is a large and comfortable timeline!
He won’t change the structure of the house at large and we can maybe say that September will be the month where he sets his core team but I think it’s enough.

He will probably design Prefall, think about the Art Direction and things like that first. Regarding menswear, I’m curious to see if he is going to put his touch right away (depending on the strategy).

But you are totally right regarding the fact that he won’t have influence on all the categories right away.

The permanent collections at Tom Ford will co-exist with his work for at least 2 years.