Haider Ackermann Mens S/S 11 Florence

[Laritournelle]

Susie's reportage shows the slippers as well. (I think I can't post the pictures here directly so click the link to see the story)

 

[Scott]

fab job by susie! seeing that look in her viewpoint makes me appreciate it even more. in fact the entire collection.

rich and poetic....not very many designers are capable of blurring the two.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

he can do no wrong in my eyes
im in love with it all...the womens pieces are resort im assuming?
they are stunning

 

[mackos]

As many members here, I'd be heading towards the womens' pieces, too. The second and the third one are fantastic.

 

[D A N A]

I want that dark colored dress

 

[tricotineacetat]

I must be the only one here that is left unimpressed of this offering then... particularly after seeing Vogue Italia's behind the scenes video coverage... I couldn't help but think that the way Haider put the women into these (barely there) outfits was more a gift wrapping exercise than an honest proposal to dress people... Does noone actually question how exactly a woman would be wearing these evening outfits? They look like they'd fall off almost in an instant - What a terrible feeling it must be to be wearing a dress that barely covers your body and that you would have to re-adjust again and again...!

 

[Spiral1532]

I must be the only one here that is left unimpressed of this offering then... particularly after seeing Vogue Italia's behind the scenes video coverage... I couldn't help but think that the way Haider put the women into these (barely there) outfits was more a gift wrapping exercise than an honest proposal to dress people... Does noone actually question how exactly a woman would be wearing these evening outfits? They look like they'd fall off almost in an instant - What a terrible feeling it must be to be wearing a dress that barely covers your body and that you would have to re-adjust again and again...!

My sentiments exactly.
I don't like any of it.

 

[Chris_Couture05]

The womens wear is amazing, very elegant soft drapping. The mens wear is ok but its nothing special.

 

[GERGIN]

Still very much so in love with the menswear, the slouchy pieces in basic and print are quite extraordinary! I find the looks more arabian over pyjama wear though, which is a good thing!

 

[Squizree]

This is pretty underwhelming for his first menswear. It looks like Hugh Hefner
The womenswear is quite beautiful though. I think he was trying conjure up a feeling of relaxation which he definitely achieved; both menswear and womenswear look very calm and peaceful.

 

[mikeijames]

haider ackermann introduced us to his first menswear debut by reminding us of some of the greatest hits from the menswear all-stars from the past decade. it was a cereal bowl full of the dries' ethnicity, the tom ford chinoserie, the pilati nomad, and fendi's color menswear masterpiece back from fall 2003 (or was it 2004?). for the uninitiated, all of the basics exist in this collection: a suit that melts away, leather outerwear, the statement coat, the bountiful cardigan, and subdued colors any man can pull off. for the fashion junky, the trademark slouchy draping we know and love from haider translated into menswear seamlessly.

 

[ultramarine]

I love the menswear pieces and think this is a great debut .. it looks like a very tactile collection .. I see the menswear and I want to see it on a rack and touch it and put it on and look inside the jackets and such .. and on top of it those saturated colours ... LOVE!

I agree the styling might throw you off, but the pieces individually work (as I wish I cud have em work on my wardrobe, lol)

Womenswear is OK ... Im more excited about the menswear

 

[nqth]

me too, tricot. and i dont see he is proposing anything new with his menswear as well.

 

[Empress Merel]

I love the women's collection. Very beautiful. As always.

 

[mikeijames]

I must be the only one here that is left unimpressed of this offering then... particularly after seeing Vogue Italia's behind the scenes video coverage... I couldn't help but think that the way Haider put the women into these (barely there) outfits was more a gift wrapping exercise than an honest proposal to dress people... Does noone actually question how exactly a woman would be wearing these evening outfits? They look like they'd fall off almost in an instant - What a terrible feeling it must be to be wearing a dress that barely covers your body and that you would have to re-adjust again and again...!

did you honestly expect a designer with the flowing imagination of haider ackermann to turn out a treatise on minimalism and severe tailoring? his womenswear offering to date have showcased his mastery over the drape and the glories of fluid design. why on earth would you expect him to leave these things behind for his menswear debut? he's not trying to insert himself where hedi slimane for dior homme left off. this debut tried to create something transcendent. now, it didn't completely pull it off, but it's a great first effort. and if we're going to beat up every single designer who isn't jil sander, helmut lang, or rick owens (or their facsimile), then what's the point of anyone ever starting a new menswear line?

 

[tricotineacetat]

The statement of mine you're commenting here was clearly aimed at the womenswear part of the presentation, not the men's. And yes, those are some skimpy numbers that do not display much of the drapery skills that Haider had made himself a name with, besides the fact that I don't think these pieces will be an easier sell than the more developed, yet difficult to sell pieces he has already shown in the last few seasons to critical acclaim (I see his collection hanging heavily discounted in most stores and if it wasn't for Ann Chapelle's support, Haider would have been out of business several years before).

In many ways, I see a certain resemblance between Haider Ackermann's and Olivier Theyskens career - they both enjoy a strong buzz and attention from press and key buyers, but somewhere between his market competitors, Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens (who are reaching for the same audience as him), Haider has faced difficulties building up trust with a 'real' client.

 

[mikeijames]

The statement of mine you're commenting here was clearly aimed at the womenswear part of the presentation, not the men's. And yes, those are some skimpy numbers that do not display much of the drapery skills that Haider had made himself a name with, besides the fact that I don't think these pieces will be an easier sell than the more developed, yet difficult to sell pieces he has already shown in the last few seasons to critical acclaim (I see his collection hanging heavily discounted in most stores and if it wasn't for Ann Chapelle's support, Haider would have been out of business several years before).

In many ways, I see a certain resemblance between Haider Ackermann's and Olivier Theyskens career - they both enjoy a strong buzz and attention from press and key buyers, but somewhere between his market competitors, Ann Demeulemeester and Rick Owens (who are reaching for the same audience as him), Haider has faced difficulties building up trust with a 'real' client.

now, are we blaming haider ackermann for the worldwide economic slowdown as well? there exist many designers from the mainstream to the insider whose pieces hang on sales racks heavily marked-down these days. that does not speak to the quality of their design or the covetousness of these items. there exist quite a few rick owens pieces on sale for sixty and seventy percent off at the outnet.com right now, it doesn't mean the man doesn't have a vision.

as for the press and buzz? haider ackermann has just begun to ride that train so it's a bit hasty to write him off as another flash in the pan like theyskens at ricci (or rochas for that matter). like all things, it'll take time to see where this settles out, but we haven't seen such an ambitious undertaking in quite some time. it's only logical that we have so many already coming out of the woodwork to try to step on what little success he does enjoy from his debut menswear collection..

 

[MetricSam]

Actually, Anne Chapelles first rule is that you have to hit break-even in 3 seasons (or years, i'm not sure about that). If you don't succeed in doing that, she backs out (it's what happened to Dirk Schönberger). Of course, she supported him in the beginning and without her, chances were we wouldn't have know Haider (or at least, the average shopper ), but nowadays it's not just thanks to financial support from bvba32 (company behind Demeulemeester and Haider) that he keeps his business alive.

But I too wonder how he was able to hit break-even in the first place, seeing that much of his stuff only covers half of your body Maybe his signature leather leggings are his main source of profit

 

[tricotineacetat]

The thing is that Haider has been around for almost 9 years now, in which one would expect that a sense of realism crystalizes that respects both artistry and consumer-friendlyness. He usually succeeds in that when he does more tailored garments / sportswear, but fails when he taps into the lingerie-esque/deshabillé evening wear territory (his latest FW'10 collection had a few similarily tricky numbers).

The fact that he is now enjoying mainstream attention would be the perfect timing to show that he is capable to really dress people and not to just wow on the catwalk with head to toe silhouettes - Seeing separate pieces hanging at stores like Maria Luisa in Paris sometimes makes you wonder just how much a single piece shines on it's own when taken out of it's context (this is a problem Helmut Lang has had with some of his more conceptual runway shows, such as his SS'04 women's show). Seeing these few outfits makes me feel of a throwback in time of his early shows... this looks more like a graduate collection and not what you would expect of an experienced ready to wear designer.

 

[FashionPower]

Yikes,those look like pajama
Was that an underwear show?