Haider Ackermann Mens S/S 11 Florence

[Pricciao]

to me it's Haider doing Etro. but maybe he just needs some time to figure out what a Haider man should be like... this collection is only an overture.
and really, why needs to be so serious on a resort collection? you guys relax a bit, ok?

 

[mikeijames]

The thing is that Haider has been around for almost 9 years now, in which one would expect that a sense of realism crystalizes that respects both artistry and consumer-friendlyness. He usually succeeds in that when he does more tailored garments / sportswear, but fails when he taps into the lingerie-esque/deshabillé evening wear territory (his latest FW'10 collection had a few similarily tricky numbers).

The fact that he is now enjoying mainstream attention would be the perfect timing to show that he is capable to really dress people and not to just wow on the catwalk with head to toe silhouettes - Seeing separate pieces hanging at stores like Maria Luisa in Paris sometimes makes you wonder just how much a single piece shines on it's own when taken out of it's context (this is a problem Helmut Lang has had with some of his more conceptual runway shows, such as his SS'04 women's show). Seeing these few outfits makes me feel of a throwback in time of his early shows... this looks more like a graduate collection and not what you would expect of an experienced ready to wear designer.

seriously, have you viewed the fall/winter collection? the piece from that collection clearly show a man in touch with the idea of "really dressing people." it's clear to those who follow his work that he's exploring new ground with this menswear collection and it's a welcome breath of fresh air imho.

 

[SoBlonde]

I like the idea of it and I can really appreciate it. It's not my taste. The heavy layering just feels messy to me.

 

[Over the Sea]

not my favourite collection, but I like it

 

[mr.seena]

did you honestly expect a designer with the flowing imagination of haider ackermann to turn out a treatise on minimalism and severe tailoring? his womenswear offering to date have showcased his mastery over the drape and the glories of fluid design. why on earth would you expect him to leave these things behind for his menswear debut? he's not trying to insert himself where hedi slimane for dior homme left off. this debut tried to create something transcendent. now, it didn't completely pull it off, but it's a great first effort. and if we're going to beat up every single designer who isn't jil sander, helmut lang, or rick owens (or their facsimile), then what's the point of anyone ever starting a new menswear line?

haiders work seems like the most unwearable, unsellable collection out there.

sure, on the runway the models are incredibly beautiful, the colors are spot on, and the whole look of the photograph conveys a sexy mystery.

but, if you really analyze the clothing, its nothing more than long rectangles of flowy fabric with a bold belt at the waist to keep it all together. i have never seen any real tailoring, and based on that video on this thread, i can see that there really isnt much substance to his work. these clothes, aren't really clothes!!

 

[VogueParisLover]

I am completely in love with the women's pieces. They are so beautiful! I'm not too sure about the men's looks, though...

 

[TaylorBinque]

tbh, I really like the collection. His menswear could be a little costume-y but still it's a breath of fresh air that lights up the industry.

 

[mikeijames]

haiders work seems like the most unwearable, unsellable collection out there.

sure, on the runway the models are incredibly beautiful, the colors are spot on, and the whole look of the photograph conveys a sexy mystery.

but, if you really analyze the clothing, its nothing more than long rectangles of flowy fabric with a bold belt at the waist to keep it all together. i have never seen any real tailoring, and based on that video on this thread, i can see that there really isnt much substance to his work. these clothes, aren't really clothes!!

i guess this dress isn't really a dress and tilda swinton really isn't wearing it. it's just one large figment of the fashion community's imagination.

style.com/stylefile

 

[Donatello89]

hum it looks like classy pyjamas....

 

[mr.seena]

i guess this dress isn't really a dress and tilda swinton really isn't wearing it. it's just one large figment of the fashion community's imagination.

i dont think you can compare tilda to most people in boutiques shopping haiders collection.

for example:

style.com

this look looks great on the runway, but its so unrealistic. again, like i said before, he takes some of the best fabric and just throws them on the model, and ties it at her waist. i just dont see the thought behind his work.

 

[mikeijames]

i dont think you can compare tilda to most people in boutiques shopping haiders collection.

for example:

style.com

this look looks great on the runway, but its so unrealistic. again, like i said before, he takes some of the best fabric and just throws them on the model, and ties it at her waist. i just dont see the thought behind his work.

i don't think every piece from every runway show winds up on store racks, do you? also, the primary focus of this runway presentation remains the menswear. however, just as that piece does not really have the "structure" and "thought" you crave, you can't argue that other pieces on the women do not. the look with the flowy pant with the over the shoulder drape is VERY wearable and has quite an impact.

style.com

don't get me wrong: there's a place for sharp tailoring in fashion -- the stella mccartney resort collection proved that for us again -- but there's also a place for this type of poetic fluidity. not all designers have to march to the beat of the same drummer.

 

[ilaughead]

I remember someone here (Softgrey, possibly?) once said that Ackermann couldn't design below the belt. His volumes are stunning waist and up, but his basic silhouette is one that blooms at the bust and withers away as it gets towards the feet. And if his menswear offerings are any indication, it seems like he has the same problem across the board. I love all of the coats and layers up on top, but the pants and shoes are best left ignored here.

I couldn't help but think that the way Haider put the women into these (barely there) outfits was more a gift wrapping exercise than an honest proposal to dress people... Does noone actually question how exactly a woman would be wearing these evening outfits? They look like they'd fall off almost in an instant - What a terrible feeling it must be to be wearing a dress that barely covers your body and that you would have to re-adjust again and again...!

This is actually a really interesting perspective to take regarding Ackermann's clothes. For all the recognition he gets for clothes for strong women, reading this reminds me that appearances aren't everything, and if you reach a little bit, they aren't the most feminist of pieces, particularly if the wearer must be constantly distracted by her appearance.

 

[Scott]

mr.seena,how much of haider's work do you actually know and have followed? if you look at his work much more extensively you'll find that he's an exceptional tailor and exceptional constructivist.

you're basing a lack of thought on just this one collection?

 

[ParadEyes]

soooo beautiful !!

 

[mikeijames]

at least the stuff will have its day at barneys....

Haider Ackermann Doesn’t Want to Make Anymore Men’s Clothes Until He Feels Like It * 12/2/10 at 11:25 AM

Haider Ackermann, the designer Karl Lagerfeld deems brilliant enough to replace him at Chanel, presented his first men's collection at the Pitti W trade show in Florence over the summer. As that resort wear arrives in stores, Haider Ackermann has announced he's done with making men's clothes for now. The decision is part of his creative process, explained Anne Chapelle, the owner of the Antwerp-based company that operates and produces Haider's collections.

"Haider wanted to underline the image he made for his women's line with the man at her side. The men's collection will be added again at the time Haider wants to and it will not be linked to a season. Creativity cannot be forced into a time frame. It is the emotion of the moment being translated to a collection, which is presented and sold to retailers who believe in creativity as such."

Yeah, screw you people with your "deadlines" and your "seasons" and your "timetables" — just clipping the wings of creativity that allow men's clothes to truly soar.

No More Menswear [Vogue UK]

(source: nymag.com)

 

[softgrey]

I must be the only one here that is left unimpressed of this offering then... particularly after seeing Vogue Italia's behind the scenes video coverage... I couldn't help but think that the way Haider put the women into these (barely there) outfits was more a gift wrapping exercise than an honest proposal to dress people... Does noone actually question how exactly a woman would be wearing these evening outfits? They look like they'd fall off almost in an instant - What a terrible feeling it must be to be wearing a dress that barely covers your body and that you would have to re-adjust again and again...!

excellent observation tric...as usual
and yes...it is in fact very awkward and uncomfortable to wear anything that must be adjusted frequently...
especially if it might accidentally expose your bits...
...

it's hard to feel confident or sexy when you are in such a 'get up'...

the menswear looks very comfy though...

 

[softgrey]

I remember someone here (Softgrey, possibly?) once said that Ackermann couldn't design below the belt. His volumes are stunning waist and up, but his basic silhouette is one that blooms at the bust and withers away as it gets towards the feet. And if his menswear offerings are any indication, it seems like he has the same problem across the board. I love all of the coats and layers up on top, but the pants and shoes are best left ignored here.



This is actually a really interesting perspective to take regarding Ackermann's clothes. For all the recognition he gets for clothes for strong women, reading this reminds me that appearances aren't everything, and if you reach a little bit, they aren't the most feminist of pieces, particularly if the wearer must be constantly distracted by her appearance.

ha!...
i had forgotten about that...
i think i did say something along those lines...
basically that his strength is in the jackets and tailoring...
but the bottom is always just leggings or a bias cut swoosh of a skirt..
it's his aesthetic...his style...

* i like the way you said the silo blooms at the waist...it's a very good visual analogy...

in my opinion...
rick owens is the same...
it's all about the jackets...
the bottoms are just so the models aren't naked on the runway...


i don't know if i see the comparison here with the menswear though...

 

[girlalamode]

How can the menswear be so different?