Hedi Slimane - Designer

[balmain1914]

I looked at new YSL bags and accessories, which are giant profit sources for a Fashion label. To be honest, they are quite disappointing comparing with the past items. If they can't sell bags well, it is not far to see that child gets fired again, no need to say couture.

Hiring a kid and giving him full control is the biggest mistake that Pinault has ever made. LVMH is notorious, but the CEO is smarter on picking people.

 

[Izreal]

well it's quite obvious this is a major change in artistic direction. ysl's former customer base is going to feel alienated and turn elsewhere...hedi followers that wouldn't be caught dead wearing pilati's work are going to flock towards it.. it's kind of the same at dior with the galliano/raf transition which is even more extreme. it's a delicate decision for these houses in that the mainstream opinion is initially going to turn their backs at this less "accessible" offering, and the customer demographics are also at 180 degrees polar opposites. i'm personally very content with the choices made, these houses needed a shake-up and to me hedi & raf have already proven in the past at dior & jil to be up to the task.. now we'll have to see if they withold the obvious increased pressure of this rivalry. i'm very very surprised of hedi's reaction, not at all his style..all i can assume is living outside the fashion bubble in LA might have unshielded him from such internet/media scrutiny.. he's human after all (daft punk fans will understand )

 

[Izreal]

^ it's a first look, half the items aren't presented or even made yet, there will be a much wider range offered in january... what is for sure is that the old pilati style isn't coming back, that's what usually happens when a different aesthetic designer comes in, if you are disappointed, go buy now what is currently in store and follow pilati's next move. don't worry about YSL profits, hedi followers which include the biggest music & hollywood trendsetters will flock like sheep to this..

The new pieces online are way overpriced...

oh cmon we are talking high-end luxury here, it doesn't rhyme with affordable... please go take a look at balmain prices if you think this is overpriced!!!

 

[lemeray]

Of course I know they are going to be expensive and I am will to pay, but the previous prices were lower with a lot more detail going on with the design etc

 

[Izreal]

well unfortunately in life..things tend to always move upwards in price, rarely the opposite! as far as "more detail going on with the design" once again this is an aesthetic concern, hedi is notorious for his minimalism approach which some may confuse with "simple" but really it means "less is more" conceptually, also i wouldn't be surprised if the quality is actually superior to what was offered previously, especially in the jewelry where i've noticed a lot of noble materials employed where fashion brands usually cheap out in this department..

 

[LostInNJ]

I suppose it is par for the course, and perhaps in a year or two public opinion will have changed, but people are acting like Hedi changing things around is totally unexpected and disrespectful.

I went back and read old reviews from Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati's first shows and time during their reign at YSL and there were quite a few negative and harsh ones. Even looking at the shows they presented in comparison to the designer before them, there was a complete 180 in terms of design and branding. Eventually, they found their footing and were able to establish themselves and their vision for the house.

So why is it any different now that Hedi is doing it? This talk of alienating customers and pushing people out is complete BS. Yes, he is redesigning a lot, and yes he is getting rid of many things, but this is his version of YSL, not Stefano's, not Tom's. As far as the online store goes, this is only a small offering of what will be available, yet everyone has their panties in a bunch. Correct me if I am wrong, but he is keeping many of the most successful styles of the house (shoes/bags). Perhaps in an effort to drive home his new vision, certain color ways have been removed from the site, but surely they are still available in the store.

I would even go as far as to compare this situation to the overhaul Dior went while Galliano was still at the helm. The Dior logo's splattered over tees, bags, shoes etc. which had the Paris Hilton's of the world and logo obsessed teens going crazy went out the window and the house began to move into a different, more elegant direction. (I know YSL did the logo thing as well). Even towards the end of his creative direction, gone were the theatrics of many of the clothes, and in was something more wearable and ultimately salable. In the end, a change was made, and the house didn't go up in flames - it was better for it.

 

[Izreal]

my sentiments precisely.. this is similar to the current transition dior is facing with raf taking over.. the 180 change in both houses is however not a coincidence but a clever chess game. i don't think the alienation of past customers is BS though, just look at how pilati fans have been reacting here or galliano fans in the dior ss13 thread.. it is the mere consequence of a radical new direction taken. most won't even understand it, some will come around. personally i hated the dior/ysl gaudiness and am logo-phobic so i embrace the current shake-up, i suspect many others will as well, it's basically musical chairs not just for the designers but incidentally for the customers as well..

 

[lili la tigresse]

The problem with the collection is that you don't feel the luxury of a big French house.
When I first saw the collection, I thought of The Kooples or those brands for wannabe rock chicks/girlfriends of a rockstar. Definitely not of a big fashion house. But yeah, I'm sure Kate Moss and the It Girls are going to love it.

About the price, a few days ago (that was like a week ago), the Chyc clutches were at 550€ and now, they are at 690/750€ !!!
And I'm not even talking about the new collection, totally overpriced! Why should I pay so much for The Kooples 2.0 ??

And the new name, I hate it. Saint Laurent is a Canadian river to me, not a fashion house.
About the clothes, I couldn't care less, no way I'm buying this, but I'm usually a big fan of the YSL clutches and I really really hope they'll bring back the "Y" for them.

 

[Izreal]

it's funny you say that… the kooples, sandro, april77 and all these other questionable brands that popped up overnight in paris are all complete rip-offs of hedi's work at dior homme, of course they lack the originality, detailing & cuts but can be purchased at 10% retail if knockoffs is your thing.. again if big logos and bling is your idea of "luxury" then best start looking elsewhere, oh and btw "Saint Laurent" is what Yves chose to call the RTW collection for some 20 years.. know your history

 

[xdieselx]

I'm not a fan of big logos but I'm more not of a fan of dull design.

Sorry. Hedi's first foray into womenswear is a big fail. The accessories are so boring and uninspired. The shoes are beyond ugly. On the other hand, the menswear in the website shows some promise.

I have lots of Dior Homme pieces during his tenure and I treasure them a lot. I actually quite like some pieces from the new YSL Men's that was shown on the website but the women's selection is really poor. I don't think it follows that Hedi followers will flock and go gaga over his new collection just because it has Hedi's touch. I think Hedi followers from before are more capable than that.

 

[lili la tigresse]

it's funny you say that… the kooples, sandro, april77 and all these other questionable brands that popped up overnight in paris are all complete rip-offs of hedi's work at dior homme, of course they lack the originality, detailing & cuts but can be purchased at 10% retail if knockoffs is your thing.. again if big logos and bling is your idea of "luxury" then best start looking elsewhere, oh and btw "Saint Laurent" is what Yves chose to call the RTW collection for some 20 years.. know your history

So, Hedi's work at YSL is a complete rip-offs of his own work at Dior Homme!
Yes, I love the "Y" (sue me), but obviously I don't need any lectures from someone whose idea of "luxury" is clothes for wannabe rock chicks/I wanna date a European rocker.

And I don't care if "Saint Laurent" is what Yves chose to call the RTW collection for some 20 years, it's still a terrible idea. Bergé and Yves are not always right for everything. Just look at that "The Kooples 2.0" collection.

 

[lemeray]

^ Yes completely agree with xdieselx! I prefer the men's collection. I am not a fan of garish logo's either or something that screams designer. I am all for minimalist design.

Izreal, I am as much of fan of Hedi as you are and I am hoping the best for the for future of Saint Laurent but like xdieselx has outlined the women's collection at present online is just downright dull and boring, hence the price is not justified!

Well I am no longer going into further discussion and I will make more judgement when I see the collection in the flesh. I am already keen to see his next collection...

 

[lili la tigresse]

I'm not a fan of big logos but I'm more not of a fan of dull design.

Sorry. Hedi's first foray into womenswear is a big fail. The accessories are so boring and uninspired. The shoes are beyond ugly. On the other hand, the menswear in the website shows some promise.

I have lots of Dior Homme pieces during his tenure and I treasure them a lot. I actually quite like some pieces from the new YSL Men's that was shown on the website but the women's selection is really poor. I don't think it follows that Hedi followers will flock and go gaga over his new collection just because it has Hedi's touch. I think Hedi followers from before are more capable than that.

Reading this page, obviously not.

 

[lemeray]

Also I'm sure Hedi is not concerned about the criticism right now or worried because about 90% of the women's collection already has a waitlist or 'no longer available'

 

[lili la tigresse]

Also I'm sure Hedi is not concerned about the criticism right now or worried because about 90% of the women's collection already has a waitlist or 'no longer available'

That's freaking why he made a "It Girl" collection. He knew what he was doing.

 

[Izreal]

So, Hedi's work at YSL is a complete rip-offs of his own work at Dior Homme!

how can one rip off himself?!! it's called having a strong aesthetic, influences carry over..

Yes, I love the "Y" (sue me), but obviously I don't need any lectures from someone whose idea of "luxury" is clothes for wannabe rock chicks/I wanna date a European rocker.

my idea of luxury is clothing with a strong identity, noble fabrics and superb fit above all. i also believe luxury should be discrete but that's my own perogative. fwiw i am passed the whole skinny look and have moved on. that doesn't mean i can't have a favorable opinion on the new direction despite some reserve. also no need to get personal here, it makes you sound insecure. fwiw i happen to be a male musician and art minimalist..from europe..paris, rive gauche to be exact.. so maybe i am simply more sensitive to this aesthetic, i am sorry if you're not..plenty of other brands out there...

 

[TianCouture]

how can one rip off himself?!! it's called having a strong aesthetic, influences carry over..



my idea of luxury is clothing with a strong identity, noble fabrics and superb fit above all. i also believe luxury should be discrete but that's my own perogative. fwiw i am passed the whole skinny look and have moved on. that doesn't mean i can't have a favorable opinion on the new direction despite some reserve. also no need to get personal here, it makes you sound insecure. fwiw i happen to be a male musician and art minimalist..from europe..paris, rive gauche to be exact.. so maybe i am simply more sensitive to this aesthetic, i am sorry if you're not..plenty of other brands out there...

Pretty sure you threw the first punch when you mentioned that someone should know their fashion history. Your posts seem to be filled with what you deem "insecurities", as you seem to attack more than explain or come to a meeting of the minds... Your argument is a little ad verecundiam, no? Just because you're a "male musician minimalist" doesn't automatically make you an authority in regard to chic. Or does it? I mean it honestly sounds like you're being sarcastic or facetious with your "I happen to be..." statement.

 

[Izreal]

not at all, just expressing my pov..it is still possible yes? my comment about the name's history is purely fact. i do find it ironic that a lot of the so-called YSL fanatics usually ignore this and are quick to accuse mr. slimane of "butchering" the holy name. finally i could honestly care less what others redeem "chic" or what bag a girl on this site fetishes. taste is purely subjective of course, i can only try and explain certain concepts to those who think the collection is "not luxurious enough" or "under designed". not trying to lecture or convert anyone, stefano already found a new job..you can follow him there..i'm just glad hedi is back at ysl.. others of course will disapprove but no need to get angry..

 

[MulletProof]

Watch out for the tone of the arguments, guys, respect is key, resorting to belittling others and escalating through that takes a discussion nowhere and often ends up violating a few rules and affecting memberships.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I was just wondering... where the hell is the PR team now? but then again, as you've said, there's no bad publicity, i guess. For my own entertainment's sake i hope this will go on forever, but at the same time if i was Cathy I wouldn't even respond, hedi's response is so self explanatory (starting from the gothic-type of the 'title' lol) it doesnt need a response.

What makes you think the PR team didn't write that hot mess? I suspect Hedi has extended his 'streetcasting' beyond models to PR now ... this goes so far beyond unprofessional that it's hard to even characterize it. Hedi & co. make Oscar look like an eminence grise ...

How would one even go about responding to this illogical screed?