Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent; Anthony Vaccarello hired

[haydn]

WWD is reporting French courts are ordering Kering to pay Hedi 13 million!! No wonder he wanted the non-compete to stand.

This can't be purely salary - he must have been awarded a portion or bonus on sales figures. In any case, good for him!

 

[Fashionstuff]

He's owed compensation. SL is still making coins off him and he deserves a cut.
He will win I hope.

I hope too.

Slimane for Calvin Klein, this kind of rumors i never heard, it was only one name- Raf Simons and his non-compete , which will finish in July if i don't mistake.

WWD is reporting French courts are ordering Kering to pay Hedi 13 million!! No wonder he wanted the non-compete to stand.

This can't be purely salary - he must have been awarded a portion or bonus on sales figures. In any case, good for him!

I think Slimane has enough money, surely more 13 Million would make him feel better but it could be some kind of revanche, moral Revanche or moral revenge.
We don't know why Hedi left SL...

 

[Benn98]

Fashionweekdaily: What did you think of what Hedi Slimane was doing at Saint Laurent?

Christian Lacroix: It was the cleverest work in a decade, what he did at Saint Laurent. I knew Hedi, because he started as director of a fashion house with his partner at that time, José Levy. Mr. [Jean-Jacques] Picart was my associate at the time, and we met with Hedi, and he came on as an intern and then assistant of Mr. Picart at the house of Lacroix for a year. You could see that this guy had such a universe, such a world in his mind. He was an artist, and he was already starting with photography. He changed the silhouette of the street with his menswear. It was not a caricature of Saint Laurent, but as Mr. Saint Laurent did in his very beginning, in the ’60s—taking pants and the navy coat from the street…blah, blah, blah. [Hedi] did the same with the rock scene. I would like to see him either at Dior or at Chanel, if that’s possible. Why not—I have been told that he kept a very good relationship with Mr. Arnault, despite everything that happened in between. I know he was quite close to Karl, and Karl is clever enough to perhaps say, one day, that Hedi might be the one and only who’s able to do it himself. I don’t know, but for me, he deserves such houses.

Source: http://fashionweekdaily.com/its-lacroix-sweetie/

 

[Lola701]

I think he used the best adjective to represent Hedi's Saint Laurent: Clever!
It wasn't great like the time of Ford or like what he did at Dior but it was clever and that's the reason of the success.
Now, i'm waiting for greatness.
He proved to us that it's still possible to create "fashion moments". LA COLLECTION DE PARIS is the fashion moment of this year and it will be remember even if it's not that great.

Everybody seems to believe that Hedi is the right guy for Chanel uh..

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I've felt Hedi is ripe for Chanel since 2007... Both womenswear and menswear. With Hedi, Chanel will lead for both women and men’s high fashion. Chanel with Karl has never been a leader, even as untouchably successful as this label has always been: But Chanel is above high fashion, above a luxury brand and immune to everything that can take other houses down: Chanel is the ultimate label and brand of lifestyle to the world. If Hedi brings the graphic sharpness, that French discipline he created with Yves Saint Laurent Men and Dior Homme, that ease of eternal cool youth and accessibility of Saint Laurent to Chanel… The combination of that brand of cache that only Chanel has when paired with Hedi’s brand of vision of casual high fashion, of casual haute couture for both women and men, the results would be the ultimate super label. Hedi at Chanel could potentially bring in a new era in fashiondom…. swoons ...

(Or Hedi could just continue with the indie teen rocker for Chanel with endless denim versions of the Chanel jacket…. flop… LOL)

 

[neonsprinkles]

I hope Hedi continues to design and create whether it be his own label or at another. I'd love to see Chanel menswear (if I can only imagine and fantasize about it).

Saint Laurent's image now with Anthony feels second rate, though it's a hard act to follow after Hedi's influence on the brand.

 

[Lola701]

Anthony hasn't even shown a skirt and people are already complaining. Give him a break, please!

I guess i'm the only person in the world that doesn't want to see Hedi doing Chanel...
I don't think that i saw his 3 years at Saint Laurent as everyone else obviously.

We are talking about the first Couture house in the world and the most important fashion brand in fashion.
Saint Laurent was his first time doing womenswear and while it was successful, wearable and stylish, it proved me that he is not a credible womenswear designer.
I'm sorry but Dsquared2 and Frida Giannini did more interesting and exciting things that he has done in 3 years. And i'm a Hedi fan who still own his Dior Homme suits.

In France, we are used to love endlessly our designers, to treat them as god even when they are doing s****y things.
While i own some of his Saint Laurent clothes, i'm not ashamed to admit that i was more into the incredible pairing between a great name + iconic designer.

If those exact clothes were designed under..Blumarine for example, no one (myself included) would have at least looked at them.

 

[liberty33r1b]

I don't want him at Chanel either, he would ruin it too....

 

[frk-frost]

I'll gladly admit I know very little about fashion but I have never understood why people like what he did with YSL. While it's difficult for me to imagine Chanel done by anyone but Karl, I really can't see Hedi doing it justice at all.

 

[Phuel]

Anthony hasn't even shown a skirt and people are already complaining. Give him a break, please!

I guess i'm the only person in the world that doesn't want to see Hedi doing Chanel...
I don't think that i saw his 3 years at Saint Laurent as everyone else obviously.

We are talking about the first Couture house in the world and the most important fashion brand in fashion.
Saint Laurent was his first time doing womenswear and while it was successful, wearable and stylish, it proved me that he is not a credible womenswear designer.
I'm sorry but Dsquared2 and Frida Giannini did more interesting and exciting things that he has done in 3 years. And i'm a Hedi fan who still own his Dior Homme suits.

In France, we are used to love endlessly our designers, to treat them as god even when they are doing s****y things.
While i own some of his Saint Laurent clothes, i'm not ashamed to admit that i was more into the incredible pairing between a great name + iconic designer.

If those exact clothes were designed under..Blumarine for example, no one (myself included) would have at least looked at them.

The Blumarine comparison is an interesting one, Lola. For all the first-impression similarities that Blumarine may have to Hedi’s SLP, Hedi is leagues ahead in terms of worldbuilding. His brand of either timetraveling to a very specific moment in the 60s or the 80s music scenes are done with such finesse and attention to detail, and tops it with such a modern, sleek sheen that’s all his own, I don’t see anyone else being able to do it, as derivative as his designs may be at times (most of the times even LOL) once they hit the shops. But that doesn’t matter, since his vision is so strong from the shows to the campaigns that has you remembering the brand. That’s a storyteller with his cast of characters, a worldbuilder that all others follow— a visionary.

Just like no one could, or can compare to Gaultier when he was at his best mixing his brand of multiculturalism. Dolce may have flirted with it from time to time back in the days when they bothered to venture outside their Sicilian theme. And Dolce did produce some nice pieces when they tried their hand at multiculturalism… but Gaultier, like Hedi with his indie rockers, was always the visionary when it came to mixing cultures.

With visionaries like Gaultier and Hedi, there’s always context that comes from a place of individuality, that also inspires, makes me dream— so that SLP motorcycle jacket-- as basic as it may be to some, is a part of a dream Hedi is selling. I don’t know if Anthony is capable of that brand of reference and context— or it’s just all shallowness, like Dolce’s and Blumarine’s “sexiness”. All I see is that he does “sexy” and that’s it. Maybe he will impress, but “sexy" alone is not worldbuilding.

(Today’s word is “worldbuilding” LOL)

 

[mikose]

I don't want to see heidi at chanel either.His vision kind opposite what Coco chanel and Karl direction.Coco want simple,elegant,bright,comfortable.Karl added powerful,edged,glamour,sexy in chanel. His saint laurent direction saved this brand from bankruptcy.But he also killed the old YSL.When you look at his collection and his old Mr saint laurent growns,you don't think they come from a brand.
Karl largerfeld is still Coco successor because he keep her vision in and bring his creation to chanel until today.
Back to varccalero,Who replace him in versus? I love what he did with versus.I think saint laurent upcoming collection will look like his last versus collection. If heidi 's cheap looking skirt can sell as hot cake why anothy couldn't.His versus collection sold out very quickly.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The tricky part about handling a couture house the size of Chanel to a new artistic director other than Karl Lagerfeld is the massive responsibility to orchestrate all the teams working on pre-, runway and couture collections, to work with the specialty ateliers and to continuously create strong brand imagery at the same time. Creating a nice tweed jacket or a glamorous couture dress alone is just not enough to keep this mega-engine running. And for that, I do believe Hedi Slimane is one of the few designers capable to supervise such a megabrand... And that's before his proven tailoring skills, perfectly finished product and best selling accessories.

 

[mikose]

The tricky part about handling a couture house the size of Chanel to a new artistic director other than Karl Lagerfeld is the massive responsibility to orchestrate all the teams working on pre-, runway and couture collections, to work with the specialty ateliers and to continuously create strong brand imagery at the same time. Creating a nice tweed jacket or a glamorous couture dress alone is just not enough to keep this mega-engine running. And for that, I do believe Hedi Slimane is one of the few designers capable to supervise such a megabrand... And that's before his proven tailoring skills, perfectly finished product and best selling accessories.

Karl is Pr master.Media world always have good artice about chanel fashion show.No matter what collection does.Karl can bring the image come to life.Only a few desginer can do it.Marc jacobs ,Nicholas G under LV ,Dior (in john galiano time),mc queen.Heidi is good in street style for young people.You will wear his clothes in party ,club in spring and summer.
But when you need a clothes for important event like wedding,promotion etc.You need to look mature.I don't know what mr.Anthony can do for saint laurent.But I hope he bring something old,something make YSL become famous.
riccardo tisci did hip hop collection,Alot people include me hate it.But he still make fabulous grown and tuxedo.He respected the founder and continues do it.But their profit is coming from street style collection.
And I hate Saint laurent casting choice.
Calvin Klein new direction is perfect heidi vision.

 

[Lola701]

Amber Valetta & Anja Rubik in Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.


Getty

 

[dodencebt]

I'm not impressed by the fit to be honest, especially the jacket on Anja. I assume it's designed to be oversized, but it looks like she literally took a jacket two sizes bigger.

 

[TaylorBinque]

I really like Anja's look. But she can pulls off any look so I need more to see. But I was thinking that she would be one of the first to wear his design for the brand since they have such great relationship.

 

[Spike413]

Both of those suits look good, but then, if you can't manage a good suit then you absolutely don't belong at Saint Laurent.

But the look of them, especially the one on Amber, hews extremely close Slimane's signature look. I honestly would have mistaken them for his product had they not been labeled differently. It's like, what's the point?

 

[haydn]

Both of those suits look good, but then, if you can't manage a good suit then you absolutely don't belong at Saint Laurent.

But the look of them, especially the one on Amber, hews extremely close Slimane's signature look. I honestly would have mistaken them for his product had they not been labeled differently. It's like, what's the point?

I agree. For a first look at actual clothing, he should have done more of a "look". This is just a suit, obviously overpowered by the model wearing it. I'll be interested to see some actual campaign images.

I was also thinking about the shift on tastes at YSL over the past decades and how each designer has attracted a different consumer. From Ford to Pilati, Slimane to Vaccarello, their customer base is surely so different. Just like the YSL associates who said their mature clients were shocked when they walked into the stores just after Slimane took over, I anticipate the same happening when the current uber young current clients see this hyper sexed up product in the stores.

 

[Nymphaea]

Vaccarello Reveals First Designs for Saint Laurent

PARIS — Anja Rubik, who has flaunted her hipbones in many outfits by Anthony Vaccarello, is at it again — this time for Saint Laurent.
The model and entrepreneur fronts a new campaign revealing Vaccarello’s first designs for the storied French house ahead of his runway debut for Saint Laurent on Sept. 27, the first day of Paris Fashion Week.
Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin captured Rubik posing on a bridge straddling the Right and Left Banks of Paris. In one image, she is dressed in a plunging, densely embroidered bodysuit topped with a denim blouson — items from the spring collection.
Sharing the black-and-white image exclusively with WWD ahead of its release in October magazines, and an outdoor campaign in New York breaking Saturday, the brand characterized Rubik as “the face of the new Saint Laurent woman.”
She portrays “a free, hedonist and elusive woman, captured in the early hours of the morning on the wharfs of the Seine,” according to the fashion house, which describes her wardrobe as “juxtaposing leather, jewels and lace, drawing a femininity without frills, rooted in paradoxes, a sensuality tied to the body.”
Lamsweerde and Matadin also produced a video with Rubik that is to debut Sept. 27 on YSL’s Instagram

wwd/forextv

 

[vetements]

cant help noticing the tanlines.. but I dont know what to think about the clothes? It doesnt quite excite me..