Hedi Slimane exits Saint Laurent; Anthony Vaccarello hired

[Kikala]

Marc Jacobs posted picture wearing YSL, Hashtag: #aintsaintlaurentwithouthedi

 

[Lola701]

I want to start a new rumour!
Hedi is moving from L.A. to NYC...And one of the Weirthemer brother is living in NYC and controlling the Fashion & beauty division of Chanel...Maybe it's an indication...
1, 2, 3! NEW RUMOUR!!!

 

[Alto]

It would make sense that Hedi started menswear at Chanel while Karl teaches him some couture tricks before he retites entirely. It would make sense also businesswise. Chanel is already such a big business in womenswear so there isn't much room to grow without being overexposed. Only question is beauty and where he is gonna reside.

 

[Lola701]

Kendall Jenner: Karl, I honestly don't know how you still do it. You've been doing it for so long, like, years, and you still have so much energy.
Karl Lagerfeld: Everyone wants to know and hopes I retire so they can get the jobs. But my contracts with Fendi and Chanel are lifelong.

Harper's Bazaar June 2016

 

[reese06]

Karl can teach Hedi couture tricks but I've yet to see Hedi make/design anything that is actually pretty and just downright beautiful for a woman. When he tries, it's often awkward or downright ugly.

 

[vetements]

I think beauty is subjective, plus the offerings at the stores offer a much wider range of products than what is being shown at the runway, which i sometimes suspect is being done strategically for a shock factor that is Marketing.

I dont find Hedi"s designs groundbreaking but they are certainly modern and sleek and addresses what women wants (how else would they sell?) I personally dont think Saint Laurent is relying as much on the leather goods than say, even Chanel? But feel free to prove me wrong.

As for Karl doing Fendi/ Chanel til his death....
I dont think anyone who is suggesting his retirment dislikes Karl but mortality prevails and he, like any one of us will die one day and isnt planning for a succession plan something natural for a successful company to do to ensure continuity?

 

[Fashionstuff]

I think beauty is subjective, plus the offerings at the stores offer a much wider range of products than what is being shown at the runway, which i sometimes suspect is being done strategically for a shock factor that is Marketing.

I dont find Hedi"s designs groundbreaking but they are certainly modern and sleek and addresses what women wants (how else would they sell?) I personally dont think Saint Laurent is relying as much on the leather goods than say, even Chanel? But feel free to prove me wrong.

As for Karl doing Fendi/ Chanel til his death....
I dont think anyone who is suggesting his retirment dislikes Karl but mortality prevails and he, like any one of us will die one day and isnt planning for a succession plan something natural for a successful company to do to ensure continuity?

Agree with you!
And, yes, sure, design is not groundbraking but i think it also depends of some factors : if it is an influential designer or fame designer, if it is a charismatic person and than how desirable the collections are , i mean for another persons and in the last case it must be very good collections or very clever marketing strategy or both ;-)

About Karl's future... sincerely,i don't think he carry on what will be with the Chanel and Fendi after his death... he maybe must think about it and choose one designer who will take Chanel after , i mean, finally it is not his own house and if the Wertheimer's Family will ask him to find somebody who will eventually take his place one day , so, than, he must do it, if hie want or not... IMO

 

[Fashionstuff]

The rumors and the drama has become more interesting than the collections

Absolutely!
But the question is following, if all this movements like exit "old" one-and-hire "new" one can infuence the sales in positive or in negative way?
For me it is more negative, in the role of customer i don't want to buy the clothes if the designer is not at the helm of the brand anymore. Maybe it's silly but if i must pay a lot of money i want have the actual item.

 

[honeycombchild]

WWD

 

[Lola701]

New Logo, no show until september (are they going to show menswear?).
I hope that new logo doesn't mean new packaging and new everything again....They could have waited 3 years before changing the logo again.

 

[mistress_f]

these are surprisingly minimalistic and fresh considering the tacky monstruosities vaccarello usually delivers

 

[haydn]

these are surprisingly minimalistic and fresh considering the tacky monstruosities vaccarello usually delivers

I have a feeling the YSL branding team did this. It's a take on Hedis logo ; he's been using that font forever. They'll likely try to keep as much of what he did (look and feel of stores, branding, etc) to try and not alienate their customer base, while giving a small bit of freedom to Vacarrelo to keep him happy.

 

[Fashionstuff]

Here is this short article

Source : WWD.com

By Miles Socha
Anthony Vaccarello Shares First Saint Laurent Images


PORTRAIT GALLERY: Giving the first clues about where he might take Saint Laurent, new creative director Anthony Vaccarello has tapped American artist and fashion photographer Collier Schorr to lens a new image campaign — minus any new designs.


There are glimpses of clothes: a smidgen of T-shirt here, a bit of bra there. But the focus is “black-and-white portraits of individuals and couples; a hint of the future of the house. Fifteen new faces, shot in Paris,” according to YSL.

Sharing two images exclusively with WWD, Vaccarello plans to unveil more content on YSL’s web site and Instagram account on June 20, with placements in magazines starting two days later.
Vaccarello is to make his runway debut for Saint Laurent during Paris Fashion Week in October. The 36-year-old Belgian joined the storied French house last April, succeeding Hedi Slimane, who had renamed the house Saint Laurent and lensed all campaigns.

 

[sixtdaily]

Slimane sues Kering

Former Yves Saint Laurent star designer Hedi Slimane has launched a lawsuit against his former employer Kering, the company and other sources told Reuters on Wednesday.

Kering confirmed the lawsuit in a statement and said it concerned Slimane's non-competition obligation. Kering said it had lifted this clause at the end of Slimane's contract, freeing him from this potential constraint.

It added that Slimane - who has designed clothes for celebrities including singer David Bowie and actor Brad Pitt - is now requesting that this clause still be applied and that the financial compensation for it be paid.

Kering said the disagreement does not alter the group's recognition for Slimane's contribution, who it said has reformed the fashion house during his four-year tenure as creative director.

(Reporting by Geert De Clercq; Editing by Elaine Hardcastle)

reuters.com

 

[dodencebt]

^ He cannot be serious. The Calvin Klein job fell through and now he wants the non-compete clause back so that he can get the compensation that should come with it? It's not Kering's fault that he gave up a lot of money to be free after leaving Saint Laurent.

 

[LostInNJ]

^ He cannot be serious. The Calvin Klein job fell through and now he wants the non-compete clause back so that he can get the compensation that should come with it? It's not Kering's fault that he gave up a lot of money to be free after leaving Saint Laurent.

When was Hedi going to Calvin Klein or being considered to go to Calvin Klein ever confirmed? A good portion of what is in these threads is pure speculation with people stating things as fact without the truth to actually back it.

Does anyone know with 100% certainty the terms under which Hedi left Saint Laurent? I'm not very knowledgable in the realm of contracts and French law, and I'm sure there is more to the story. If he had a non-compete in his contract, why shouldn't he be entitled to it? Since when does the employer get to decide to lift a clause, just because? Unless it was a hefty payout and they thought he would be taking another job and wouldn't care...?

 

[dodencebt]

^ That was a question I asked, it's not a fact I stated. And there was a persistent rumor that he was going to Klein.

 

[maxlinden]

He's owed compensation. SL is still making coins off him and he deserves a cut.
He will win I hope.

 

[squilliam]

I just find it funny that Kerring is getting sued again...they seem like such a terrible company to work with

 

[Lola701]

I just find it funny that Kerring is getting sued again...they seem like such a terrible company to work with

You may think that they still don't know how to handle "the business of fashion".
It's true that they have been into fashion (The Pinault) for 15 years (Bernard Arnault for more than 30 years) but come on!

Between the messy exits (Ford, Giannini, Pilati, Ghesquiere), the lawsuits (Ghesquiere, Slimane)...it's quite weird!