Helmut Lang, 1988 to 1997

[BBBBB]

Such a great thread! AND the older images actually still show, thanks Runner! What an inspiration early HL is...
His see-through S/S 2000 collection was one of my earliest fashion loves; such beauty done with the right insouciance, casting, setting and all. Though I had a disappointment when I visited the shop in Soho NYC (as a very young tourist) spring 2000, and they only had jeans and suits... Reality can get you down as they say.

 

[BBBBB]

found this looking for F/W 1989 photos. Loved the un-HL like cat-theme! http://zombiestoothache.tumblr.com/image/18448918676

 

[Scott]

^actually that isn't so far away from HL at all. helmut did have doses of humour for much of his career. it was sort of that typical austrian kitsch we saw in a lot of other designers after....abstract but monochrome and clean.

when helmut said that "nobody walks away from fashion" it really struck me the parallels between he and martin margiela. margiela eventually walking away himself and both have turned toward the art world.

 

[Doctor Caroline]

Great interview. Thanks for sharing. For once an artist is more concerned with his audience and not obsessed in what he's 'trying to convey'.

 

[softgrey]

thanks for the article..it was interesting...
very cool stuff about the archive being created, esp in digital format...

i missed runner's post about the NYC exhibit---but i'm not so sure about the art...
i liked it better when he made clothes..
...

 

[runner]

unusual stuff from F/W 04
dress of silk chiffon, muslin pleats and horsehair fringe ( priced at Y1144500 )


my scan

 

[runner]

Lang:
The archive, in its near entirety, is kept in digital form. I recently donated my visual archive to MAK in Vienna, which encompasses all graphics, images, Séance de Travail videos, press material, advertising campaigns, architecture and so on. They will develop a virtual database of my work that includes all silhouettes and locations of the pieces, which are in museums around the world. MAK will also create a dedicated space where, on request, students or other interested parties can study my work.

http://helmutlang.mak.at/

 

[Scott]

are they going to get anymore pre-2004? i would love to see an even more extensive compilation of his work....like a lot of the stuff in the late 80's & 90's.

but 2004,it's funny because i still think that was probably one his strongest collections since joining prada group.

 

[runner]

yes I think they are.
it's just like "under construction" at the moment.

 

[softgrey]

thanks for the link runner...
looking forward to seeing more of the archives...

 

[dior_couture1245]

Some full videos! So fantastic!

Fall/Winter 2004




Spring/Summer 2001




Fall/Winter 2000






Plenty more found here!
http://www.youtube.com/user/FashionChannel/videos?query=helmut+lang

 

[Scott]

they have loads of his full shows from the mid-90's available on youtube as well. i spent a deliriously exciting evening watching them

 

[runner]

# helmut lang finest clothes since 1986 photographed by jurgen teller during the helmut lang 94/95 show in paris in 3/94
reflecting jeans and cowboy boots painted with red nail polish
available in grey-light only

# helmut lang finest clothes since 1986 photographed by guido paulo during the fitting for the helmut lang 94/95 show in paris
silk shirt with white collar and taylor-made smoking jacket
available in black only

as mentioned earlier in this thread, the F/W 94 collection did not arrive in stores because of the fire at the factory which forced the production to stop. you might have seen a few lucky exceptions and the samples here and there, but basically most of the pieces stores had bought were canceled. naturally this was one of the critical turning points in the history of HL and was part of the reason why onward got to be involved in the operation. including the good and the bad, what had happened between S/S 95 and the start of the final years under prada was basically conspiracy with onward kashiyama.

my scans

 

[Pricciao]

does anyone know where to find how it looks like inside HELMUT LANG / DESTE by Visionaire? well apparently it's sold out in a snap, just curious how it's edited. just a sneak peak is good enough.

 

[flautist32]

Helmut Lang-editorials?

Does anyone have access to or knowledge of particular editorials from the 90s/early 2000s featuring Helmut Lang clothes or accessories? Even just pointers on specific issues or stories would be helpful, as I have access to a fairly extensive archive and can go digging for a story once I have a year, publication, and vague date to reference (further incentive: I will post images on here once I find them and scan them!)

 

[kasper!]

Sarag Mower wrote an essay about him in the latest Self Service magazine...anyone interested? I could post some snaps..

 

[bleach]

^yes please

 

[Mathewthew]

Please !! I wanna read it

 

[softgrey]

Does anyone have access to or knowledge of particular editorials from the 90s/early 2000s featuring Helmut Lang clothes or accessories? Even just pointers on specific issues or stories would be helpful, as I have access to a fairly extensive archive and can go digging for a story once I have a year, publication, and vague date to reference (further incentive: I will post images on here once I find them and scan them!)

my guess is that vogue and harpers used him tons- esp during that time...
look for anything styled by melanie ward, cause she was working with him then and using him a lot...
she was working for american harpers bazaar during that time...

 

[Scott]

^yeah melanie was also styling his shows at the time as well. and liz was a huge champion of his in her own right. bazaar would certainly be the best bet on some of the best HL usage....i actually still have loads of things i pulled from the magazine in those days. i would suggest anything between early 97-the final editions that liz edited in 99 is where you'll find his work most rampant.