Hussein Chalayan S/S 06 Paris | Page 4 | the Fashion Spot

Hussein Chalayan S/S 06 Paris

Review from style.com:

PARIS, October 6, 2005 – Short, sexy, and body-conscious—you would imagine the intellectual Hussein Chalayan would rather die than have those three adjectives attached to his clothes. Yet they are the only words to describe his latest collection, from the scrolled curves of the white skirtsuit that opened the show to the multistrap bra-topped dresses that ended it.


Cleaned-up and pared-down are two of the emerging buzz phrases of the season, and Chalayan's radar has clearly tuned in to that frequency. But his intelligence has also locked on to the fact that today's minimalism can't be a rehash of the nineties. Instead, he's working out a curvilinear, sculptural, sometimes 3-D alternative, one that happens to make an excellent foil for a great body. A white cut-out dress, bare at the waist and embroidered and embossed with vine leaves, was one example. Others were the dresses that suspended scarflike prints from heavy-duty black bras. Something in all this triggered memories of early Versace—a source many young designers are beginning to ransack in London, where Chalayan lives. That burst of inspiration has put him on a new track and, apparently, in a new, lightened-up mood. At the end of his show, he kindly provided anyone worried about where these clothes would be worn with a visual clue: a short blue dress with nightclub ropes bound into it.

– Sarah Mower
 
suggesting Chalayan as a 'young designer' and linking him with Versace is pretty sad..

thanks for bringing in the review peacelover
 
a few nice things here and there....
but really nothing extraordinary...
i too was expecting a little more, i think....
or perhaps just something different to this....
:ermm:

the quality looks superb, as always....
but this has such a bizarre feel to it....
martian, almost....
:huh:

love a few of the white/cream looks faust posted....
thanks faust....:flower:

the black trousers w/ the black shirt is my favorite....
the neckline is gorgeous....i adore that....
:heart:
 
hussein doesn't disappoint. i agrre the clothing definately resembles those balenciaga pieces posted, but then again, this collection is thoroughly chalayan. ghesquiere's approach is much more couture like, and i assume a lot more expensive, so in a way you could argue chalayan's collection is superior. as avant-garde as his explorations may seem, i think there is a nice balance between exploring issues of wearability and experimentation. i always feel as if he is very rich in his explorations, but in the end shows pieces that have no arbitrary bits. i think there are a lot of different directions he could go in after this collection: the cut out, embossed dresses make me think of do-it-yourself cut out dresses you can peel off from their backing. a little bit a-poc-ish. i think the 'tire' dresses are interesting because it's working out draping in a completely unexpected way. the tires also allude to another purpose like straps on a backpack, or the straps being the backpack or a storage compartment. the way he's left it is very basic, and left to be interpretated.
 
Lena said:
suggesting Chalayan as a 'young designer' and linking him with Versace is pretty sad..

Really. And that b**ach gets paid too? I can write better...
 
This is all I've been able to find about this collection so far- except that the show is titled 'Heliotropics' from an otherwise quite sarcastic Vogue review...

from http://news.independent.co.uk:

...The young designer Hussein Chalayan's collection was a rather more contemplative affair. Chalayan took the staples of bourgeois fashion and softened them with beautiful tubes of fabric which wound their way around more than a few outfits. "I was trying to look at the typical notion of bourgeois clothes and direct it towards nature with plant like structures," Chalayan said.

By Susannah Frankel, Fashion Editor in Paris
Published: 08 October 2005

Has anyone found more info about his ideas behind the collection?
 
very cute clothes.

It's like chinese food...it's good...but I'm still hungry.
 
faust said:
Really. And that b**ach gets paid too? I can write better...
actually...
i think those white dresses ARE very much like versace....
at it's worst...:yuk:...

and she didn't actually refer to chalayan as a 'young designer'...
she said he lives in london where a lot of young designers are doing this sort of thing now...
so he may be influenced by them...

face it...this is a bizarre collection for chalayan...
what is with all the skin??....
it's offensive...what happened to the 'intellectual' part of his design philosophy??...

*i can't imagine that he is going to appeal to his core customers with this...
hmmm...i'm just so disappointed...
i know he can do commercial and clever...
he had it for a minute and then he lost it....:(

oh well-there's always next season...:flower:
 
very creative dresses... i don't see the versace relation though! :unsure:
 
...The young designer Hussein Chalayan's collection was a rather more contemplative affair.

how clueless can a journalist at The independent can be :unsure:
Chalayan is NOT a young designer, this is too much of an insult to his long career..
i'm sure he wont be enjoying those reviews, this may be a flop collection but doesn't justify insulting him in public :(
 
softgrey said:
actually...
i think those white dresses ARE very much like versace....
at it's worst...:yuk:...

and she didn't actually refer to chalayan as a 'young designer'...
she said he lives in london where a lot of young designers are doing this sort of thing now...
so he may be influenced by them...

face it...this is a bizarre collection for chalayan...
what is with all the skin??....
it's offensive...what happened to the 'intellectual' part of his design philosophy??...

*i can't imagine that he is going to appeal to his core customers with this...
hmmm...i'm just so disappointed...
i know he can do commercial and clever...
he had it for a minute and then he lost it....:(

oh well-there's always next season...:flower:

What are you talking about? The only even slightest resemblance I see is that colorful dress, and that's only in the print. And what about skin? Girls are not to wear short dresses? There is a way to show skin without looking like a teenage sl*t. Chalayan has done miniskirts in his past collections, and it looks totally fine.
 
does androgynous clothing = progressive?



being that this collection is about biology, it makes sense that his playing around with ideas of uncovering and highlighting the body. Flowers are pretty much sex organs, because they have such a simple purpose: reproduction. Sometimes the most banal things are erotic, and sometimes what we find strikingly sexual is actually dull.
 
faust said:
What are you talking about? The only even slightest resemblance I see is that colorful dress, and that's only in the print. And what about skin? Girls are not to wear short dresses? There is a way to show skin without looking like a teenage sl*t. Chalayan has done miniskirts in his past collections, and it looks totally fine.

***i'm talking about the white dresses that look like the girls are wearing pasties!!!...:yuk:

*nothing against mini skirts...
that is NOT the issue i have ...
 
this just screams 'Look At Me'...
which always makes me want to avert my eyes...

B)...
 
Well, I see this collection a bit differently ... I'm not a fan at all of unnecessary/gratuitous displays of skin a la Tom Ford ... I noticed (before I read about his taking inspiration from plants) how the "closeup" dress twines like vines around the woman's body ... I found this collection beautiful and indeed worshipful ... something we need much more of, don't you think? :p ^_^ :heart: :flower:
 
:ermm: i don't like most of this with exception of the nice first dresses.
the prints and the tubes are a no no. i much prefer yohji's version of the tubes. they are thinner and cuter like tails.:p
well i also think it's all too sexy and tight for me.:yuk:
 

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