4) Donna Karan? not sure! 5) JMendel -- focusing on the back of the top. very sexy! http://***************/image/0210200410282358.jpg http://***************/image/0210200410282451.jpg 6) Mathew Williamson http://www.***************/image/0212200409333766.jpg
7) Chloe 8) dolce & gabbana 9) gucci & gucci I know the first Gucci dress is a bit over-used, but it really is a stunning piece! I love the cutting!
tortoisie--your idea for "Green with Envy" is great! Very of-the-moment. Black just looks out of place this season, but it will make a comeback. SS04 Sedatives - spring may be the season of florals, but we still need suits Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier Models: Elise Crombez, Julia Stegner, Daria Werbowy Opening page: Chanel Left: Balenciaga Right: Chloe
More Than Casual Friday - bringing prints, colors, and separates into the office Photographer: Mario Sorrentti Models: Dewi Driegen, Tetyana Brazhnyk, Maria Clara Boscono, Ann-Catherine Lacrioux Opening page: Matthew Williamson Left: Miu Miu Right: Derek Lam
Strategic Alliance - Trend: ruched, ties, corset influences Photographer: Raymond Meier Models: Anouck Lepere, Diana Dondoe, Nicole Trunfio Opening page: Alexander McQueen Left: Versace Right: Valentino
Back to AW 04... The Shape of Things to Come - the influence of Yohji Yamamoto Photographer: Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin Models: Daria Werbowy & Natasha Poly Left: Narciso Rodriguez Right: Balenciaga Left: Celine Right: Chloe
AW 04 Security Blanket Ph: Greg Kadel Model: Julia Stegner Opening page: Sonia Rykiel Left: Givenchy Right: Marc Jacobs
Challenging the Pros They may be trend-setters and editorial darlings, but like Balenciaga's high-waisted jeans, layering--esp. with tweed--rarely look good on real bodies. Prada set trends by channelling menswear and clashing prints, but with the ensemble of a fur-collared tweed coat with a skinny-belted vest and a rainbow-print below-the-knee skirt Miuccia goes overboard. Tweed is beautiful in a tricky way--so cozy, it makes you look a little heavy. Compounded by the similar-colored vest--with another shirt underneath, no less--the top now has three layers of collars (if you count the fur) and no trace of a feminine shape. Prada's attempt at diluting the masculinity of the top-half with a girly, fuschia skirt is not exactly successful either--below-the-knee is a notoriously difficult length to pull off. I am all for tweedy officewear but Dolce & Gabbama makes me think twice. While there are many things to love about their three-piece skirt suit--the muted gray, the Missoni-esque weaving, the gloves and the nod to elegance... Again, something about the shape is amiss and creates the illusion of wide hips, even on the runway model. In addition, even though Dolce does not do straight-up elegance and is typically quite successful at inserting their trademark Sisilianess into conventional suits, the accessories (shades, stocking, red t-straps, and that attitude) belong to a streetwalker more than on the runway. Pheobe Philo's presentation for Chloe FW 04 is her most individualistic and whimsical to date. The timely emphasis on the oversized poncho, plaid pants, knit sweater coats, and the revival of the colors green and camel made the show one of Paris' highlights, and the decidedly un-Hollywood pastel gowns with black stripes have earned steady approval despite initial critical skepticism. Still, the show's second exit (picture above) looks unfalteringly strange. It has all the right elements: pastel green button-up, rich chocolate brown, loose-fitting slacks, and open-toe heels as an accent of femininity. The look is part baby-doll and part menswear, which make for an intriguing contradiction. Not sure if it is the stylist's fault or whatnot, but the end result is unappealing. Plus, do you really want to wear two belts at one time? There are two sources of inspiration for Marc Jacobs: his grandma's closet and a baby room. That is the only way to explain the dichotomy of his design aesthetic: he is either so unabashedly retro that, with a straw hat, his thousand-dollar floral dresses would look unfittingly fitting on a gardener, or so desperate to prolong youth that he puts oversized buttons on everything (from coats to boots). His penchant for granny/baby chic manifests itself on the cream-colored coat with oversize buttons and fur collars and cuffs. And lest not get started on the high-waisted pencil skirt. The whole looks is amorphous, and Polina looks so confused walking down the runway wearing it.
Girls Just Want to Have Fun Models: Elise Crombez & Anne Marie & Valentina Photographer: Mario Sorrenti Deviating from fall's favored theme of tweedy elegance and retro glamour, in what is quite an uncharacteristic move, this editorial celebrates seasonal eccentricity. Specify no dress code. Leave functionality at the door. Right now, what floats our boat are sparkles, whites, cropped pants, and showing some skin before it gets seriously cold. Opening page: Chanel Left: Dolce & Gabbana Right: Stella McCartney