Challenging the Pros
They may be trend-setters and editorial darlings, but like Balenciaga's high-waisted jeans, layering--esp. with tweed--rarely look good on real bodies.
Prada set trends by channelling menswear and clashing prints, but with the ensemble of a fur-collared tweed coat with a skinny-belted vest
and a rainbow-print below-the-knee skirt Miuccia goes overboard. Tweed is beautiful in a tricky way--so cozy, it makes you look a little heavy. Compounded by the similar-colored vest--with another shirt underneath, no less--the top now has three layers of collars (if you count the fur) and no trace of a feminine shape. Prada's attempt at diluting the masculinity of the top-half with a girly, fuschia skirt is not exactly successful either--below-the-knee is a notoriously difficult length to pull off.
I am all for tweedy officewear but Dolce & Gabbama makes me think twice. While there are many things to love about their three-piece skirt suit--the muted gray, the Missoni-esque weaving, the gloves and the nod to elegance... Again, something about the shape is amiss and creates the illusion of wide hips, even on the runway model. In addition, even though Dolce does not do straight-up elegance and is typically quite successful at inserting their trademark Sisilianess into conventional suits, the accessories (shades, stocking, red t-straps, and that attitude) belong to a streetwalker more than on the runway.
Pheobe Philo's presentation for Chloe FW 04 is her most individualistic and whimsical to date. The timely emphasis on the oversized poncho, plaid pants, knit sweater coats, and the revival of the colors green and camel made the show one of Paris' highlights, and the decidedly un-Hollywood pastel gowns with black stripes have earned steady approval despite initial critical skepticism. Still, the show's second exit (picture above) looks unfalteringly strange. It has all the right elements: pastel green button-up, rich chocolate brown, loose-fitting slacks, and open-toe heels as an accent of femininity. The look is part baby-doll and part menswear, which make for an intriguing contradiction. Not sure if it is the stylist's fault or whatnot, but the end result is unappealing. Plus, do you really want to wear two belts at one time?
There are two sources of inspiration for Marc Jacobs: his grandma's closet and a baby room. That is the only way to explain the dichotomy of his design aesthetic: he is either so unabashedly retro that, with a straw hat, his thousand-dollar floral dresses would look unfittingly fitting on a gardener, or so desperate to prolong youth that he puts oversized buttons on everything (from coats to boots). His penchant for granny/baby chic manifests itself on the cream-colored coat with oversize buttons and fur collars and cuffs. And lest not get started on the high-waisted pencil skirt. The whole looks is amorphous, and Polina looks so confused walking down the runway wearing it.
not sure!
