Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez - Designers, Creative Directors of Loewe | Page 12 | the Fashion Spot

Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez - Designers, Creative Directors of Loewe

I… actually completely forgot the Proenza boys were doing Loewe. Not even that much time has passed since their announcement and I’m already oblivious to them.

It all just seems at such odds to what it is they’re capable of. Maybe I’m pessimistic, but I really don’t think their tenure will amount to much. Not in a bad way, but also not in a good way. Just in a mid “interim” way mainly to keep things stable.
Their Loewe tenure condensed in a single gif:

cat-photocopier.gif


tenor.com
 
I was at the Serrano store in Madrid (supposedly the first in the world housed in a beautiful Gaudi building) last week and the SA told me the PS boys were just there to view the store and `see what can they do`... free trips to Spain indeed.

The store was packed with people and I am a little surprised Loewe now has queues and you have to be attended by individual SAs instead of just walking in.
But I can tell they are really hard sell, keep pushing me things that I dont need or want, ended up buying some things, but none from their reco lol! Probably my last from Loewe since I have little hopes for the new designers.
I was just on this store yesterday while travelling and it was PACKED and beautiful.
The only ones I saw with a good amount of clients were Loewe and Miu Miu. The most empty ones were LV, Chanel, Fendi and Dior. Even Ferragamo had one client and Chanel had zero.
 
The new Vogue interview was so hard to read, full of clichés, completely empty, 7463639 words to say nothing… like their fashion.

To be honest, I wouldn’t like to be in their shoes. Succeeding JW is maybe the most complicated role in fashion atm, because he was the only one doing “something” creative wise. To be replaced by two people that the only thing they’ve been doing in 15 years is copying Phoebe makes no sense to me.

Let’s see what they do, but I have 0 expectations.
 
And the CEO talking about the end of globalization? Like if every market didn’t have their own particularities?

There was a time in which brands decided, (very wrong decision btw) that every store should have the same things. People complained a lot at regional levels, but that’s what a few “mastermind” thought was best, it was never a reality!
 
You’re absolutely right in having zero expectations. They’re excellent copiers, and my guess is that they will continue jw’s outlines for the brand. But they won’t be able to progress it. From what I know from them is that they’re culturally not so interested and are rather flat as people. You can like or dislike jw Anderson, but he’s culturally engaged in a really wide variety of media. He knows his stuff. For instance the whole Ibiza thing was done so well with exactly the right angle on it.
I’m so lost why they chose these 2.
 
I just read the interview and you can tell they've been working in their own small bubble and resources for so long. They show off a leather technique that is intarsia to Maya Singer that was developed in-house and how they're 'absolutely amazed by it'. Techniques such as 'skiving' which is like level 1 beginning leather learning you would know on your first day in an internship in an atelier, design or PD office since the 1980's.
I was just watching a couple of interviews yesterday where Jean-Paul Gauthier is explaining a 'knitted' coat in his showroom, it's slithers of fur that is knitted together (a piece from 14 years ago), and after a Ghesquiere LV interview (we can say what we want about his LV stylistically but he is consistently giving ambitious and challenging briefs to the fabric suppliers).
On one side with Proenza boys it's like bless.. you are at least starry eyed, another is like absolute dread to see their future behind the scene interviews showing off a skirt that's been cut on the bias 'and see, its crazy how it can totally change the flow when you turn fabric diagonal? our team showed it to us a month ago'

For me I am already disappointed because seeing their body of work, I feel those very baseline techniques or trials wont be very much explored further than what they've seen because they don't have any distinctive curiosity, or obsessions that can lift them into some new territory.
 

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