Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez - Designers, Creative Directors of Loewe

[0729866]

Their appointment does seem late, as I wouldn't really consider them to be in their prime now. However, from the crop of New York designers, they came up with, they're still standing, so I guess that's a testament to something -- maybe their ability to be good merchandisers?

I'd say their primary weakness is that they were never really solid image-makers.

Even before Jonathan took over Loewe, he had a pretty tight collaboration with Jamie Hawkesworth and Benjamin Bruno, which helped him cultivate a very specific type of look and feel. With regard to Jamie, he was part of that crop of photographers popping off between 2012 and 2015 (Harley Weir comes to mind), who started to emerge as the new guard of go-to fashion photographers. I'd say from that crop, Jamie's influence was/is probably the most undeniable when we look at contemporary imagery now (even nonfashion stuff). With regard to Bruno, he was already pretty seasoned as a stylist working under Carine's Vogue Paris during the magazine's heyday, so he certainly had an eye and a sensibility towards provocation. So, when they teamed up with Jonathan again at Loewe, not only were they good, but they both were also really driving a lot of visual culture on their own at the start of his tenure.

Jack and Lazaro have never really had close collaborators quite like that. They've also never really had any memorable campaigns, fashion films, and/or art-like collaborations. While they do make things people sell, which is certainly no skill to scoff at, part of Jonathan's magic was his ability to build a world, a feeling, a vibe -- which not only made Loewe cool but gave it this feeling that you were engaging with a brand that was bigger than the clothes.

If Jack and Lazaro could manage to lean into the visuals a bit more, I think they will be fine, but whomst knows. You can make a hit bag and have solid visuals and still be on shaky ground, especially in this crazy world.

 

[Xone]

tell me more about this gossippppppppppppppppppppp omg. better than the latest news kkkk

I think this is from a 2010 NY Times article wrote by Eric Wilson (where is he now? still in Asia?
"
His departure from the magazine, after less than a year, would have been unremarkable, had it not coincided with a Page Six item in The Post that linked a romantic spat between the Proenza Schouler designers to an affair with a young Vogue staff member. (The staff member was unnamed in the original report, but the gossip column has since referred directly to Mr. Blasberg as its subject.) Though he denied its accuracy, Mr. Blasberg said the article was an embarrassment to the magazine. He said his experience there was the only regret of his career, since he can’t go back.

“Sometimes I wish that Anna Wintour didn’t know I existed,” he said. But the Proenza Schouler designers remain his friends.
As he began to make his way as a freelance writer, Mr. Blasberg found himself embroiled in a second scandal. In 2006, an anonymous blog called Socialite Rank appeared, skewering the gilded lilies with cruel taunts about their social-climbing ways. Many people guessed that its author was Mr. Blasberg because of his uncanny access. (It was later revealed to have been the work of Olga Rei and Valentine Uhovski, stepsiblings who shared a fascination with the social culture while working as fashion journalists.) Mr. Blasberg is still hurt when anyone mentions the blog. Having been unfairly accused, he said, he won’t write anything bad about anyone, which helps to explain why so many companies are eager to court his favor."

And from The Observer:
"In early 2005, Mr. Blasberg left Vogue amid rumors of playing a “pivotal” role in the breakup of Proenza Schouler design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. “I felt powerless,” he said, of the gossip."

And i think it's true that they remained friends cause he interview PS in 2021

Fashion and Art: Proenza Schouler | Gagosian Quarterly

 

[Xone]

Their appointment does seem late, as I wouldn't really consider them to be in their prime now. However, from the crop of New York designers, they came up with, they're still standing, so I guess that's a testament to something -- maybe their ability to be good merchandisers?

I'd say their primary weakness is that they were never really solid image-makers.

Even before Jonathan took over Loewe, he had a pretty tight collaboration with Jamie Hawkesworth and Benjamin Bruno, which helped him cultivate a very specific type of look and feel. With regard to Jamie, he was part of that crop of photographers popping off between 2012 and 2015 (Harley Weir comes to mind), who started to emerge as the new guard of go-to fashion photographers. I'd say from that crop, Jamie's influence was/is probably the most undeniable when we look at contemporary imagery now (even nonfashion stuff). With regard to Bruno, he was already pretty seasoned as a stylist working under Carine's Vogue Paris during the magazine's heyday, so he certainly had an eye and a sensibility towards provocation. So, when they teamed up with Jonathan again at Loewe, not only were they good, but they both were also really driving a lot of visual culture on their own at the start of his tenure.

Jack and Lazaro have never really had close collaborators quite like that. They've also never really had any memorable campaigns, fashion films, and/or art-like collaborations. While they do make things people sell, which is certainly no skill to scoff at, part of Jonathan's magic was his ability to build a world, a feeling, a vibe -- which not only made Loewe cool but gave it this feeling that you were engaging with a brand that was bigger than the clothes.

If Jack and Lazaro could manage to lean into the visuals a bit more, I think they will be fine, but whomst knows. You can make a hit bag and have solid visuals and still be on shaky ground, especially in this crazy world.

I remembered Loic Prigent include them on one episode of his
"The day Before" docu-series....

and also there was another documentary on dvd i saw, cant remember if is the CFDA Fund awards...but it was also many many years ago...

 

[jeanclaude]

After the hecatomb of Demna at Gucci, this feels like nothing. Kering unknowingly did a favour to LVMH by making the most idiotic appointment of the year.

 

[Olaffo]

They’ve got one job and one job alone: to keep numbers going with basically continuing the route taken by JW Anderson. They won’t have any creative freedom but to adhere to army of merchandisers and sub designers coming up with stuff vaguely resembling previous creative director. This appointment left me cold because it’s the strategy of continuation and not disruption - which is quite funny bc these guys got important posting by copying Anderson for past few years lol

 

[THD96]

So all the Loewe-ish collections they sent out were a calculated move for their CV in order to get this job. Bravo, boys you won the long game.

Which makes me wonder, because they have their phases. They have the Nicolas Balenciaga phase, Phoebe Céline phase, and last the Loewe phase. I don't know if they also want those jobs at that time.

 

[yslforever]

After the hecatomb of Demna at Gucci, this feels like nothing. Kering unknowingly did a favour to LVMH by making the most idiotic appointment of the year.

"the most idiotic appointment of the year" so far. Still no Balenciaga.

 

[perhydrol]

^^ But Proenza Schouler must have been on LVMH's radar for years, they got a minority stake in the brand back in 2014 (and sold it back, but still). So it's not just a matter of their Loewe-ish collections, the awareness was there.

 

[Kimihiro]

I think this is from a 2010 NY Times article wrote by Eric Wilson (where is he now? still in Asia?
"
His departure from the magazine, after less than a year, would have been unremarkable, had it not coincided with a Page Six item in The Post that linked a romantic spat between the Proenza Schouler designers to an affair with a young Vogue staff member. (The staff member was unnamed in the original report, but the gossip column has since referred directly to Mr. Blasberg as its subject.) Though he denied its accuracy, Mr. Blasberg said the article was an embarrassment to the magazine. He said his experience there was the only regret of his career, since he can’t go back.

“Sometimes I wish that Anna Wintour didn’t know I existed,” he said. But the Proenza Schouler designers remain his friends.
As he began to make his way as a freelance writer, Mr. Blasberg found himself embroiled in a second scandal. In 2006, an anonymous blog called Socialite Rank appeared, skewering the gilded lilies with cruel taunts about their social-climbing ways. Many people guessed that its author was Mr. Blasberg because of his uncanny access. (It was later revealed to have been the work of Olga Rei and Valentine Uhovski, stepsiblings who shared a fascination with the social culture while working as fashion journalists.) Mr. Blasberg is still hurt when anyone mentions the blog. Having been unfairly accused, he said, he won’t write anything bad about anyone, which helps to explain why so many companies are eager to court his favor."

And from The Observer:
"In early 2005, Mr. Blasberg left Vogue amid rumors of playing a “pivotal” role in the breakup of Proenza Schouler design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. “I felt powerless,” he said, of the gossip."

And i think it's true that they remained friends cause he interview PS in 2021

Fashion and Art: Proenza Schouler | Gagosian Quarterly

Sorry off topic but the last I heard of Derek was the Gwyneth incident.

I really couldn’t care less about this appointment, it’s a matter of just keeping the steam going, just like with Ryder at Celine.

 

[NYLA22]

From the GQ Show Notes newsletter (written by Sam Hine)

• A Small Menswear Mystery: Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson succession plan is complete. Well, almost. Yesterday, the brand announced that Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are taking over the house that Anderson (for all intents and purposes) built. The appointment didn’t come as much surprise, but it does raise an interesting question about the plans for Loewe’s menswear. As I noted in my story on the news, McCollough and Hernandez are not men’s designers, but they were apparently planning to launch menswear at Proenza Schouler, and hired NYC veteran Patrik Ervell away from COS to head up that venture. I loved Ervell’s boyish eponymous line (now defunct), and was excited to see what he could do at a luxury brand, albeit a nimble one. McCollough and Hernandez will need to staff up the Loewe design studio, assuming some of Anderson’s team followed him out the door. Is Patrik Ervell the next designer of Loewe men’s? Or the next creative director of Proenza Schouler proper? McCollough and Hernandez start April 7. For now, Ervell’s LinkedIn still lists his old gig.

 

[Xone]

Well the WWD post and assume article stated :

"Confirming a widely expected move exclusively to WWD, Loewe said McCollough and Hernandez would carry "the entire creative responsibility of all Loewe collections across womenswear, menswear, leather goods and accessories."

So we have to wait and see...

 

[youthinasia]

Well the WWD post and assume article stated :

"Confirming a widely expected move exclusively to WWD, Loewe said McCollough and Hernandez would carry "the entire creative responsibility of all Loewe collections across womenswear, menswear, leather goods and accessories."

So we have to wait and see...

To be honest, Loewe menswear under JWA looked pretty easy to design...

 

[hamburgers]

From the GQ Show Notes newsletter (written by Sam Hine)

• A Small Menswear Mystery: Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson succession plan is complete. Well, almost. Yesterday, the brand announced that Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are taking over the house that Anderson (for all intents and purposes) built. The appointment didn’t come as much surprise, but it does raise an interesting question about the plans for Loewe’s menswear. As I noted in my story on the news, McCollough and Hernandez are not men’s designers, but they were apparently planning to launch menswear at Proenza Schouler, and hired NYC veteran Patrik Ervell away from COS to head up that venture. I loved Ervell’s boyish eponymous line (now defunct), and was excited to see what he could do at a luxury brand, albeit a nimble one. McCollough and Hernandez will need to staff up the Loewe design studio, assuming some of Anderson’s team followed him out the door. Is Patrik Ervell the next designer of Loewe men’s? Or the next creative director of Proenza Schouler proper? McCollough and Hernandez start April 7. For now, Ervell’s LinkedIn still lists his old gig.

Pretty sure they just hired the former Prada men’s head designer I mentioned in the Miuccia thread as design director of menswear so it will probably be him for at least the first season.

 

[jeanclaude]

To be honest, Loewe menswear under JWA looked pretty easy to design...
View attachment 1367231

So easy they could hire a 4 y.o. for the job.

 

[FAdS]

"the most idiotic appointment of the year" so far. Still no Balenciaga.

It's gonna be the Mugler guy, right?