Jacquemus S/S 2024 Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Bottega Veneta on a budget...

I was never a fan of the brand, it's not my vibe. But I could acknowledge a certain naivety that turn simple ideas into elementary poetry.
But it's been a long time SPJ lost this "naive" approach.

For a couple of season he tries to be edgy, modern, sharp. His clothes are no more "innocent & naive" but rather Kardashians oriented. A pity !
 
The volumes are very Karl and the allure is very Ghesquiere. All of that without a master technique…
That being said, I like that he is finally back to work. This collection feels more achieved than anything he has done this past 2, 3, 4 seasons? I don’t even remember…

I see the influence of Matthieu Blazy…

Great cast!
I’m curious because this collection feels more elevated than his previous ones and I’ve seen some questionable pricing from his brand. I wonder if he is trying to elevate his brand and it perception…
He needs to work on his technique though.

It’s important if he wants to work on less geometric shapes and actually take his concepts to a next level.

He could have showed it in Paris…
 
Was expecting something messy but it turned out safe. I’m glad it‘s more grounded but there’s not much to say. It just is, no? Just bland and inoffensive… not something Givenchy (if what he’s hinting is true) needs right now.
 
The rounded shoulders and weak-kneed "conceptualism" made me think of Loewe by JWA right away, though it's missing the latter's brazen surefootedness.
Simon has a good product, I'm sure he knows that. But why on Earth he wishes to be Paris's Christian Siriano is beyond me!
 
this looks like some effort was put into it after last season’s disastrous reactions but it’s now completely lost the last remains of the easy charm that made his collections so attractive in the first place. It’s dryness and conceptual leanings don’t gel with his sunny personality
 
A lot of BV, a bit of The Row and Miu Miu… this brand is our French Proenza Schouler.
At least he is consistent in his sexy vision of women…
It will be interesting to see where he goes from this.

I’ve seen the prices and yes, some dresses above 1500€ and coats over 2000€. He probably got the clientele for that but he needs to elevate so many things design and construction-wise. It’s not even at AMI level.
 

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